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Discussion in 'Disease & Pests' started by ikwezinz, Jan 29, 2017.
Oxalic is being used in Europe for 20-30 years and there is zero tolerance observed.
As it turns out this point is a very good one.
I am in the process of sourcing Glycerine.
Does anyone know if mineral Glycerine is ok you use?
Clarkes in Napier will supply 20L of it for $109 including GST and $9 for freight to Taupo.
This is a good price if mineral is OK????
I dont know about mineral, all the references are to vegetable, which is about $80 for 5 litres.
They have the same molecular structure and farmers use mineral for cow udders so hard to see why it would make a difference, I guess in the USA it's easier to get these products from Walmart etc whereas we seem to have to hunt around for bulk
On another note my hives have removed about 50% of the towel so happy with that aspect of it
What day did you start to see bits of the towel out front?
I put MAQS in 3 hives and it is now day 7 with no sign of any debris thrown out. Mind you, I didn't check this arvo as it's hosing down
I've not left MAQS in a hive long enough for them to be removed by the bees, but it is possible apparently .
Day 7 there will still be residual formic which they probably avoid
Oh, I thought they were drop in and leave. Bought them off RGBees so I don't have the bucket they come in, and subsequently I don't have the instructions (I should know better)
When do you usually pull them out Matt?
Day 8, but yes you can leave them in there and remove at your leisure
I've never made a special visit to pull them out. The bees don't throw anything of them out , they carry on as normal around the paper wrapped solidified bits of gel they become. You chip them out weeks/months later..
Ok, got it. Thanks @M4tt & @yesbut
glycerine available at your local farm supply store - used as teat salve in dairy.
Day 1 had some removed already, I've never had them remove MAQ's, I take them out after a few weeks normally and they haven't really ever been touched
That could be vegetable or animal glycerine
Do you have a preference?
Is it advisable not to use Mineral glycerine?
My supplier of Fa and OA can supply Mineral Glycerine.
A lot of people will automatically run with the vege Glycerine but is there a sound reason to not use the Mineral based product?
Just picked this thread up - very interesting.
Have a few questions i hope someone can help with
does anyone put a layer of plastic or something under the roof to stop in corroding? or will the hive mat be enough?
Is it temperature affected? its about 28c here and around very high humidity - how will that affect treatment?
shop towel - is it paper? i have a roll of 'shop towel' i use in the workshop and its a sort of lightweight chux type woven cloth - would this work? would it slow down the bee removal?
Anyone with an idea or opinion on any of that?
Typically - i didn't read all the article before asking the above questions . Some are now answered!!
One question i do have though that i cant see is ..... okay you soak the roll,squeeze it out - how are people storing it before going out to apiaries?
Ii don't know if i've worded it right.
If you have a roll of treated wipes are they just tasking the whole roll out wrapped in i suppose plastic and then tearing one off on site? or do you after treating the roll. peel them off and putting them into something?
Is there a small time window of treating towels to treating hives?
I used shop towels from super cheap, the are like a tough paper towel and I have notice bits of fluffy towel under the hive that have passed through the mesh floor, I made up the solution at home that could treat 3 hives that were at another apiary, I cut the supercheap towels in half and soaked them in the mixture and rung them out and put them in a plastic takeaway container to transport to the other apiary, when the mixture goes cold it sets a little and firms up, but simple to use, I treated two hives at home with the glycerine/oxalic acid and one hive had only a couple of varroa under the mesh floor and the other hive which was stronger had about 30 varroa, I didn't check mite levels before treating, but will after 4 weeks.
Apparently there two grades of Glycerine, one light and the other is heavy.
The light one is for winter use in the cow shed.
Who knows which would be best for this use??
The glycerine seems to be mainly a carrier, so not sure about heavy or light, the vegetable I bought is pretty thick, but when you heat it I assume it would all be the same. HSV has done what I did, true test will be a hive with a mite load?
I have not heard of there being two grades . I believe it's all the same
In winter, farmers can add more glycerine to the teat spray for a mix with more emollient
My info comes from Farmlands store.
The 20L pail only comes in heavy but the 200L drum comes in both.
The light is about $100 more expensive per drum
Maybe its a central plateau thing?