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Found 5 results

  1. Ok so i dont post here much but i have done lots of reading over the years . during this covid break i had no work for a long period of time so had some time up my sleeve. over the last few years ive developed a vaporiser for treating my bees here in new zealand i got sick of using a wand as it took to long so developed a quick blow in system out of junk in my garage and a couple of parts from china. i re built it a few times during covid. Then i decided to make 10 stainless steel units to sell to help make ends meet due to not having a job. so here they are im hoping to sell them to people in the auckland end of nz so i can get feedback and discuss the operation of them. If they work well i am thinking of setting up making them more often but need to see feedback first. im looking at selling them for 800 each as they where quite a bit of work to make but they are fast treating the bees. and oxalic acid is cheap so i feel there worth it. I had a friend who was using one of my older versions on his commercial operation (who wants to remain anonymous) and found that during the warmer months he would just use it to treat each apiary just after he worked it as a extra boost in conjunction with his strips and then he would do a full 3 hit treatment during mid winter and found that it helped keep the varroa down. I only have 10 hives and i have never used strips in any of my hives, not for any major reason i just started with the vaporiser and haven't felt the strips where necessary. here are picture's of the unit and a video showing its operation Accidentally i did leave out of the video the cleaning process. All i do to clean it is to poor water down into the chamber which melts any bits stuck inside and then poor it back out again. This also has the benefit of cooling down the device before putting it in the truck to go to the next spot.
  2. Hi there, I've got a few bees with deformed wings in one of my hives and am wondering about the best way to treat it. I used Bayvarol in autumn and Apivar in spring, but have honey supers on the hive right now. Would the shook swarm method be the best way to try to knock varroa back? Can I put some of the honey frames back on the hive once it is set up to provide extra food? There's a good nectar flow on right now. Thanks.
  3. Hello. Someone used wormwood tincture for the prevention and treatment of nosematosis and varroa? What do you think about using tinctures in beekeeping? In Ukraine, beekeepers often use wormwood. The ancient doctor Avicenna called wormwood "a panacea for all diseases". Wormwood is considered a poisonous plant, but all medicines are also poisonous in a certain concentration. In Ukraine, beekeepers often use wormwood tincture for the prevention and treatment of nosematosis and varroa. Tincture of wormwood has a normalizing effect on the digestive system, metabolism, eliminates virtually all existing fungal and infectious diseases. Tincture of wormwood works well on varroa mite, but it does not give one hundred percent result. That why it is necessary to use additional means for the prevention and treatment of bees from varroa mites and nosematosis. Tincture of wormwood is added to the syrup at each feeding. Proportion: one tablespoon per one liter of syrup. For 50 colonies, we disperse 5-7 liters of wormwood tincture per year. Wormwood for tincture is harvested during the flowering period. It is dried and then cut into pieces. When cutting, wear a respirator because it produces a lot of dust. You can also buy wormwood in a pharmacy and make her tincture To make the tincture, you need a three-liter bank. At the bottom of the banks we pour a glass of dogrose (if there is no dogrose, you can do not use it). We use dogrose as a source of vitamin C. Then lay wormwood. It needs to be well punched. It is better to use wormwood of different ages in equal proportions. After the wormwood was laid pour vodka or moonshine to the top of the bank. On a three-liter bank we used two and a half liters of vodka. Cover the top of the bank with cellophane and cover with a lid to avoid evaporation. Wormwood insists about two weeks in a dark place. Thank you. Ask questions. Subscribe to our channel.
  4. After some advice...I am using MAQS for the first time - one of my single depth boxes with a super on it has got me a bit puzzled as to what's going on... I put the MAQS into my hives yesterday. Today when I went for a check I find that one of my single depth with 1x super has the front and some of the sides totally covered in bees and quite thick in places too. I am running a hive doctor base and have the boxes behind the lugs so as to reduce the entrance and try prevent robbing that I saw happen on one of my other hives a week ago. The bees didn't appear to be fighting - rather just sitting there in a big mass. It was almost like a swarm had landed on the front of the hive. I checked all my other hives in the apiary to make sure that it wasn't one of those colonies but they were all fine. When I opened the hive to see what was going on it looked like most of the bees on the outside were from that very hive as it was much reduced in numbers and it was a strong single box colony. I did my best to get as many of the bees as I could back into the boxes but I was left with a reasonable size clump by the entrance. They were a bit frenzied by this stage but not fighting or rushing into the hive - more just sitting there not going in. None of the bees that I put back in seemed to be rushing back out the entrance... Couldn't see any obvious signs of robbing when I went into the hive but it may have been early stages if that's what was going on??? Does anyone have experience with MAQS that can provide some advice or suggestions on what is going on here? I know that the colony expands when MAQS is put in and I've seen it on a mate's hives, but nothing like this. Not a super hot day but very humid...however none of my other hives did this... Also one of my other hives the MAQS I put in killed the queen overnight...found her dead at the bottom of the hive when I was checking the other hives to see if one of them was robbing this other one out... So far not too keen on MAQS...
  5. Hi there, We usually treat our hives by alternating Bayvarol / Apivar, but are considering using MAQ for the upcoming round (we have 1500+ hives). I'd really like to hear from anyone who has used this & what your experience has been (apologies if this has been discussed in other threads I haven't read through)...Were the concerns of overdosing / sufficient ventilation / timing / queen loss actualised? Any heads-up with the treatment? Thanks in advance!
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