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Found 19 results

  1. ctm

    swarm

    My lure box cached a swarm this afternoon. Two questions, do bees that want to swarm, first find a place to go to and then swarm to that place . Or do they swarm and than try to find a place. Or both. The reason why I ask is bees where checking out the lure-box for 5 days and more before they decided to move in. You would think a already swarmed colony hanging in a tree somewhere would not wait that long. Other question. I like to give it to my neighbour (150 meter away), should I wait until the queen has some eggs or move it as soon as possible so foragers won't come back to the original place? Thanks
  2. My bees swarmed today and I was lucky enough to be home to catch them. I’m unsure what to do next though! Few questions below: 1. Should I add some full brood frames from the last hive? If so, when should I do this? 2. The queen is already a few years old, how long would you wait to replace her? 3.can I place the swarm hive next to the old hive or is this confusing for the bees? 4. When’s a good time frame to expect the new queen to start laying? thanks in advance for the advice
  3. I found 2 swarms today in my apiary, about 1 m apart, one larger than the other, both low down and on easy to cut branches. I put them into seperate Nuc's. The larger one had an unmarked queen which I caught and transfered to the nuc box before shaking in the bees. I'm not sure whether the second swarm had a queen. A few hours on, both seem happy in the nuc boxes. My first swarm captures ? Swarms top left (ball), bottom right (along branch). Q1) Would the swarms likely be from the same hive, or separate?. Q2) is it likely that the swarm(s) came from elsewhere - not my apiary?. With both swarms being on the edge of my apiary, I naturally thought that they were swarms from one or two of my hives. I can think I have alabi's for each hive. I have: 1) 1 x FD with autumn (marked) queen laying well - so the larger swarm was not from that queen. 2) 1 x FD which had 12 Queen cells a week or two ago - I kept 2 in the hive, created a few 2 frame splits in my queen castle, and removed the rest. 1 or both queens would have emerged a week ago. Although I'm leaving them to themselves for now, I had a quick peak today and there are loads of bees and stores in the hive, similar to when i checked two weeks ago. So I don't think the volume of bees could come from that hive. QC) Queen castle with 4 x 2 frame splits 2 have new laying queens, 2 had queen cells, will leave for a few weeks before knowing if they are queen right. Had too few bees to be either swarm, and entrance activity is similar to the last few weeks. Nuc 1) An early spring split, queen laying well, still with the same amount of bees. As always, thoughts and advice much appreciated...
  4. Hi all, this is my first post! I'm an extremely new-bee, got my nuc in September, now have one brood box and one super separated by a queen excluder - as per profile pic. I have just inspected my hive and can find no sign of queen, eggs or larvae. Plenty of bees and plenty of honey - in fact last inspection 2-3 weeks ago there was no honey, but queen was there and laying. Has my queen swarmed/died? What do I do now?
  5. I discovered quite a large clump of bees outside one of my hives today and upon inspection I discovered very erratic drone laying and many queen cells which had jelly inside, and one or two capped QC’s. I destroyed all the cells but now I’m regretting it as I believe I should have let the swarm / supercedure happen to get rid of the lame queen. Please advise
  6. I've just taken a call via ApiNZ regarding a swarm in Tawa. It sounds like it's only just arrived. Bees swarming around the chimney and coming into the lounge via vents in the fireplace. It could be scouts and the main swarm is somewhere nearby. It could be the main swarm. If there is any beekeeper handy to Tawa that could go to assist then please phone me for the distressed owner's phone number. My contact details are on my profile page https://www.nzbees.net/profile/2542-rob-stockley/ Please phone rather than email as I'm out and about.
  7. Hello everyone!! I have made a new video abot swarming control. We used our observations and made up the stages of preparing the bees for swarming. What do you think about this control system? I hope my explanation was clear. Stages of swarmig GREEN PERIOD (no risk of swarming). 1. population increase. 2. drone production. 3. Appearance of cell Cups 4. Fatty Bees. Bees resting in clusters. Orange Period (great risk of swarming) 5. queen cells 6. reduced laying (smaller brood nest) 7. No brood (hive has not yet swarmed but could at any moment). Red Period 8. Hive has actually swarmed. If you want to be a good beekeeper you need to know stages of preparation of bee colony for swarming and how to control swarming at each stage. Swarming means breeding. Problems of Beekeeping are: 1) Development of colonies of bees – increasing in the mass (number) of bees in the colony; 2) Control of swarming – watching out that the colony of bees does not fly away. Old school of beekeeping prefers the natural reproduction of bee colonies and gives a swarm to fly out from the hive and then catch it. They believe that swarms work better. Yes, swarms work better, but they work better because bees did not work before swarming, they were saving their strength to fly away. This means that bees, that do not swarming, do more work, work better than bees that were swarming. In all cases, it is better that the bees do not swarming and get out from the hive because they can fly away at all. So the first spring flight of bees passed. After this, any bee colony begins to prepare for swarming because bees want to breed (swarming) always. They think, dream about it and strive for it. It's good that bees want to swarm (breed), but beekeeper must to control it, and prevent bees from flying out of the hive. 1. We marked the green the period that is safe from the fact that the bee colony will fly away. The green period includes 4 stages of preparing the colony of bees for swarming. After the first spring flight of bees the first stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming takes place. It is called: an increase the number of bees. The queen of bees lays eggs, but the number of bees is still small and the bee colony cannot fly away (swarming) in any way. 2. At the second stage drones appear in the bee colony. Drones appear quickly in strong families because someone has to fertilize the queen. This is necessary for the further successful breeding (and swarming) of bee colony. We need to maximally stretch this second period in time to fight with swarming. To do this, we put the frames in the colony, looking at the strength of the colony of bees. 3. Third stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming is the appearance of cell cups. You do not have to worry about it just note that in this colony came the third phase of the safe period (your bees will not fly away in the near future). 4. Your colony of bees grows, becomes stronger, you put frames with empty combs and see that there are grapes of bees on the side of frames, this bees do not work. There are a lot of job in the hive, but part of bees do not want to work. Bees begin to save energy in order to fly away. In Ukraine we call such bees as «Fatty bees». This is stage 4, but your bees are still not ready to fly away. This means that the safe period of preparation of bees for swarming has ended. And begins the orange period of increased danger that bees can fly away (swarm out). This period includes 3 stages of preparing the colony of bees for swarming. 5. If you during the inspection of the hive and the planned setting of frames with empty combs found swarm queen cells, then the fifth stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming in this hive had began. If you see swarm queen cells this means that the bees are preparing for swarming. Need to know, if you see queen cells of requeening by bees this means that the bees just want to change the queen – this is not a sign of swarming. Fistulous queen cells are not sign of swarming too. We know that new queen get out from cell after 16 days, we need to note this and begin to fight with this stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming. How will we do this? Simple. It is necessary to make splits using swarm queen cells. So we do not let the bees gain strength and develop so that they can fly away from us. Making splits, we are increasing number of the colonies in our apiary and fighting with swarming at the same time. 6. Now the bees develop further. You as a beekeeper help them. But at some moment, see that the Queen began to lay eggs less, at the same time, there are all that is needed in the hive, and you thought to put more frames or even a box in the hive. This means that the bees forced the queen not to lay eggs because queen must to lose weight for the future flight of the swarm (In fact, the Queen wants to lay her eggs, but bees do not give it.) This is the 6 stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming. It is called decrease in laying. What to do in this case? It is necessary to weaken the colony of bees, that is, need to return the colony to a green safe period of development of bees (for the second or third stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming). We need that the colony does not want to swarm to the main flow. And we must to control it. How to weaken a colony of bees? We take away from the colony frames with open and sealed brood and also if there are a lot of bees in the colony we can to take part of bees from this colony too. Brood we can sell or put in the splits or put in the other colonies. Taken bees we can shake off in the weak splits. Young bees will stay in the new hive, and part of the flying bees will fly back to its hive. That means that at the 6 stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming we need to take away from the colony frames with brood and also to take part of bees from this colony too. So we spend the swarming control and know what happens in each hive and at what stage of development is each colony of bees. If you observe a decrease in the laying of eggs, the colony of bees will not develop and grow more. Using the above methods of fighting with swarming, we also do not give to the queen decrease in the laying of eggs. In nature, swarms are not big. When the colony of bees collects about four kilograms of bees, they can fly away from the hive. They know that such a mass of bees is enough for survival and they can fly away. The colony feels that there are enough bees in the colony and queen stops laying eggs because it is not rational to have a bigger colony for them We weaken the colony of bees because we need that the queen will return to the same rate of laying eggs. We have found out under what conditions the queen lays the maximum number of eggs. When there are from 6 to 14 frames in a colony of bees, then queen lays the maximum number of eggs. If the hive is up to six frames, queen lays eggs less because there are not enough bees to service the brood in the hive. If there are more than 14 frames in the hive, the queen decrease in the laying of eggs and the colony prepare to fly away. So when we fight with swarming and do not let it go by itself we breed bees, increase the number of colonies and increase the strength of colonies of bees at all apiary. We give to the queen the opportunity to work with one intensity, and the bees serve to the queen also in one pace. If we will not control the number of bees in the colony, there will be an overabundance of bees in the hive during main flow. Part of bees will not work and beekeeper will lose in the amount of honey and bees. 7. Last, the seventh stage of the orange period of increased danger that bees can fly away (swarm out), comes when there are no eggs (open brood) at all in the hive. There are a queen and swarming queen cells, but no open brood in the hive. Queen has stopped laying eggs. In this case we need to take urgent measures that the bees do not fly away from the hive. The first and foremost, we need to put in the hive frames with open brood because bees must have work while the queen starts laying eggs again (bees will not leave open brood and will not fly away). The second, it is necessary to apply such measures as in the sixth stage. It helps to stop process of swarming. Also in this case, if you see that the bees can fly away at any moment today, you can apply the method of emergency prevent swarming “Castling”. About this method watch in our video here . 8. This is all stages of preparing the colony of bees for swarming. The orange period of increased danger that bees will fly away ended. And the last eighth stage, shown as red line, swarm is flying out from the hive. In this stage we cannot do anything, except catching the swarm. If your bees had fly out, you missed how the bees in the colony did not work, the swarming queen cells were made, and the queen has stopped laying eggs. The description of the swarming control is complete now. I want to add one more thing. Many people think that during the main flow the bees do not swarming. No, they are swarming, but less. It depends on the breed. That why we need to continue to control the whole process of preparing bees for swarming in hives during main flow too. If we want that the colony of bees will work at full strength during the main flow, it is necessary to keep the bees on stage 3-4 of the safe green period of preparation of the colony for swarming, until the beginning of the main flow. If the bees did not enter the orange period of increased danger that bees can fly away before the beginning of the main flow (it means that bees did not think about swarming), they will be maximally productive during main flow.
  8. It is important that beekeepers know how to respond to swarm requests, as we do not allow guest members to post personal contact information in order to protect their privacy. BEFORE YOU CAN RESPOND If you wish to participate in this section of the forum, you need to have completed BOTH sets of instructions at Where and how to post contact details & how to view them ensuring your privacy setting is set to allow ALL VISITORS access to your profile. You can check this, by browsing your profile whilst logged out. Please note information placed in your profile is done so at your own risk. ---------------------------- RESPONDING When a member of the public, posts a swarm request, you can introduce yourself, post that you are available for that area and the timeframe you are available from-to. You should direct the person to your profile page so that they can make contact by the methods you have given access to. It is acceptable for multiple beekeepers to respond in the same way for swarms and it is up to the requester to choose who they will use. We ask the following: You do not charge the requester for swarm removal. You do no sub contract beekeepers to run your removal on your behalf. You do not charge other beekeepers to remove the swarm. You do not claim a swarm as your own unless you have personally collected it. Please advise us when the swarm has been collected, so that we can close the request.
  9. Iggy

    Nucleus

    Hi, my husband and I have purchased our first hive. We have a few beekeeping friends who have inspected it and advised us that the next step is to purchase a nucleus...We live in Kinloch Taupo and would appreciate any advice as to where or whom we can purchase from, or if there are any swarms? Kind regards Iggy
  10. About 10 days ago I caught a swarm at my house, I moved them into a nuc box and left them about 30 metres away from my original hive on the other side of my garage in a little clearing where they are sheltered from the wind. In the last week, there seems to be a ton of activity around my original hive and the swarm hive, but the concerning thing, is all the bees appear to be flying between the swarm hive and the original hive. So I thought the swarm hive might be robbing the original hive? So I closed up the entrance on the original hive to 1 bee width, but that didn’t effect the amount of traffic between the two. So maybe the original hive is robbing the swarm hive? So I closed up the swarms entrance to 1 bee wide, but again that didn’t effect the amount of traffic between the two. Now if I look at either hive there is a few hundred bees clustered around the entrance, this makes me think they are not robbers. 1. All the bees seem to know where the entrance is, there are none looking for a way in around the back etc. 2. Almost all the bees are happy to land and cluster together while they wait to get into the hive - there are only about 30 airborne bees at any one time at each hive, my understanding is robbers will be much less keen to land, and they won’t chill out with the other bees. 3. This has been going on for almost a week, and when I last checked, there was no sign of any robbing in the hive. 4. To my untrained eye, none of the bees appear aggressive to each other. 5. Both hives have feeders with 1:1 syrup in them so there shouldn’t be a shortage of food. However, I am certain that virtually all the flying bees are flying backwards and forwards between the two hives. Any ideas? not sure what else I could do to prevent robbing if that is what was going on.
  11. Hey Guys, Given the extremely mild winter we are having, when do you guys think we will start seeing swarms? I'm in the Hutt Valley and observed my bees flying 3-4 times last week. I would imagine with the warmer climate up north there must be even more activity up there. cheers
  12. Hi All This is my first season as a hobby bee keeper. Got into it as a father/son activity with my 11yo. We bought two nuc hives at the end of last summer and have managed to winter them through well, and looking forward to them starting their spring build. We have purchased some wooden nuc boxes with the idea of putting out some swarm traps to add interest to the season. I have some new plastic frames that have been waxed dipped, but no wooden frames or drawn comb. I seem to have left it a bit late and can't get any wooden frames with wax foundation fitted, and don't have the equipment or the experience to wax my own yet. My question - will the plastic frames work as well in a swarm trap as wooden frames with foundation sheets? I have heard that bees don't like the plastic frames as much as wooden frames?
  13. Swarm reports are coming in early this year. I already know of a Christchurch event from the beginning of last week and reports are also coming in from Auckland. Please post your 2015 Season swarm reports.
  14. What is the possibility for bees to swarm in autumn? Had a look in my hives today, and in the one hive (3x 3/4, about 11 full frames of solid honey and the queen laying beautifully) had two queen cells at the bottom of one of the frames. This is a hive that lost its queen in January and I did a paper combine on at the time. Could it still be queen cells that were created before I did the combine? I would have have expected them to tear all the queen cells down after they were QR again.
  15. Hello everyone! I finally have bees. About a week and a half ago, a very small swarm (about as big as this one The Smallest Caught Swarm ) settled in my backyard bait hive. To my suprise, they are very active and are doing very well (no pictures yet, not wanting to disturb them too much). I let them settle in for about 5 days, then put a top feeder on with about 750mls of Light Sugar Syrup, they have almost cleaned that up. They are currently still in the old bait hive but I have added some fresh frames and foundation but there is still one old frame which is empty (no foundation) that they have started to suspend some comb on. This weekend, if it's warm, I am hoping to transfer them to a fresh new box and get rid of that old frame but I have a few questions first. 1. I have a hive doctor base board, and even though they are described as been "semi-ventilated", I am a bit scared that using this with such a small lot of bees may chill them. Thoughts? 2. I do not have a new roof, but I do have a few old gable roofs and I am planning to use one of these but I don't know if it is worth the risk, been old and from my grandfathers beekeeping days. I guess that the roof is not in direct contact with the bees and should not contain any spores of AFB or anything else, so therefore should be safe to use. I do not have access to a Wax Dipper to sterilise. Thanks for helping out a Young New Beek! [doublepost=1449815363,1449815240][/doublepost]Just to note that there is also one Apistan Strip in the middle of the cluster of bees!
  16. It's swarm season for bees Just a little article I spotted, a lot have probably seen it
  17. Very exciting to see and catch my first swarm - 4 huge bundles in a low tree - I managed to put them in a spare brood box and I sealed it up. Then realised that I probably want to give them a bit more air and some frames to start up with so went in quick as I could to add frames and open front. Pretty much the whole swarm then decided to take off again but they shortly returned either to that box or their old hive. I'm assuming queen is still there in one of them... Any advice or thing to do from here? I'm thinking leave them alone for a week or so and then see what they're up to...
  18. Is there anyone with knowledge on the Wellington region, that can give me some insight on when the Swarm Season in Wellington will be expected to start and end? //Jan
  19. I have just built my first Swarm Trap, but I am only starting with beekeeping this year, so I do not have any old frames with comb yet. How important is it to put frames with comb in a Swarm Trap? Can I use new frames with wax foundation instead will it make the Swarm Trap less attractive? //Jan
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