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Found 5 results

  1. With very little else to do for at least 4 weeks, I thought I might document my system for creating OG strips. I haven't read on the topic since last year, I hope what i do isn't out of date? But they have worked very successfully for me. I have created this method as a small hobbyist, which I hope that other beekeepers with only a few hives can get their head around and follow. I've taken some pics to help with the process. Firstly, i have my own crappy old sewing machine, pretty important. I use Proform Gib tape from Bunnings, 2 1/16 wide, $7 odd. There's lots of little tips that go along with the strips, so feel free to ask me questions. 1. I cut 3 x 600mm lengths. I lay them on top of each other and sew them down the centre. I go for 600mm as it's easy to handle/sew. 2. Fold the strip over, and sew as close as possible to the edge on the other side. You now have a strip that is is approx 27mm wide, and 6 layers of paper. 3. I cut them to 200mm long. I use FD frames, so this is a good length. Change the lengths if you use 3/4. 4. I have a standard Sistema click top tupperware style container - 235 L x 170 W. I put 60 of these strips in here. They are quite snug, but not tight. I mix 300g Glycerine with 200g Oxalic acid. I use a microwave to heat in 30 sec intervals, stirring well each time, until the acid has dissolved. Pour this evenly over the strips. After about 24hrs the mixture will be completely absorbed, and the strips will be tight in the container. They don't feel 'wet', it almost has a waxy feel. 6. My formula is in one of the pics - I do this because I will forget in a years time when I need more :). 6. I use a nail to put holes through the end of the strips. Then I put a toothpick through the end. 7. It hangs between the frames like this. I like this, because i feel the 'staples' that bend over push against the brood walls, whereas I have seen the queen lay on both sides of my strips, which are hanging. A good strong brood box would have 6 of these - this gives the box a 20g dose of Oxalic.. Hope this may be helpful some some other small scale beekeepers who want to experiment with this method of Varroa control. This is my own experimentation, and happy to receive constructive feedback.
  2. Hi Team, I've been watching various treatment threats in Diseases & Pests, and I have one question of Beginners. I'm using OA with good success. But my question regards adding MAQS to the regime. I understand the MAQS/Formic acid is a different action and can attack varroa in the brood comb and not so much the varroa on the bees (phoretic) I've seen it's temperature and volume restrictions and the needs for a strong well fed hive. But it says "leave the hive undisturbed for 7days". Now that clearly means, no inspections... no big deal. But does it mean, no concurrent OA treatments? I the reason I ask, is why not do your usual OA treatment then place MAQS. Then continue your OA treatments. This would mean both larval and phoretic varroa will take a hit. I'm thinking of doing this with my autumn treatment, as my spring nucs (now in 10frame FD) are not up to strength yet pp MAQS information) Or is this the overthinking of the well read, but inexperienced newbee. Thoughts?
  3. Hello everyone, I've maxed out my beekiness today. I've done a sugar shake test 13mites/300ish bees gives me 4% level in my new, and only, hive. I've done my first oxalic acid vaporisation ¼ teaspoon (1g) for my only brood box, as per kiwimana, and went well. Best I've ever done infact... I'm going to re-treat every 5-7 days for the next 3 treatments and retest my mite count after that (fingers crossed). It's amazing that despite this method being "mainstream" for the many years now, and well ahead of Europe's dribble method, that there is still a bit of variation in advice. I suspect it's a classic example of shining the cat & everyone does it slightly differently with the end result. Bee Culture recently recommended 2.25g/treatment/FD bloodless box, that's almost double most of the others. But it was single treatment of bloodless hive. Kiwimana recommends ¼ teaspoon per hive, others 1g (same as ¼ teaspoon) per FD brood box (assuming most "typical hives" have 1 or 2 FD boxes for brood. Scientific beekeeping hasn't really done anything on it yet, as it wasn't approved for the US when he wrote his things. I get why this technique isn't necessarily commercially viable, it's a bit time consuming, but it must be a good thing for everyone if hobbyists minimise resistance by choosing these sorts of techniques and only use strips for rescue. So it would be nice if some concrete advice on how to could be found. Also, in NZ, what do people consider acceptable levels of mite? 1%, 2% or some other figure? Thanks
  4. Hi team, Did my first inspection today, in light of all the online activity suggesting it was time to crack the lid. I found 3-4 frame ball of bees around empty frames. Some half emerged brood etc, but no capped brood. It was chilly & a cool breeze so as soon as I saw my queen I stopped. So no eggs seen but thats ok? I did see lots of DWV so have started weekly Oxalic, and I'll re-inspect in 2 weeks. I'm not doing a mite count (there was not that many bees) and with signs of mite syndrome I thought I'd treat anyway. On the good side, queen seen. And lots of capped honey (6 full frames) so I've taken off the feeder. And with lots of lay space I've not put on a top box. My first question; 1. Suggestions? 2. Any other Canterbury people finding hive in winter mode still (it has finally arrived)? Or am I actually seeing a weak varoa newbee overwintered hive?
  5. For the new beeks, and the old dogs looking for new tricks. The oxalic acid sublimation/vaporiser use is reviewed and studied in the latest (march) Bee Culture. You can get a free online 3 months subscription if you want to check it out. Bottom line, it works. And 2.25g/brood box seems to be the magic number. But they were treating bloodless (over winter) hives for maximum single treatment effect.
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