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Found 30 results

  1. I have been melting wax and putting them into moulds or pots but unfortunately when the wax sets, it splits or cracks at the surface. See the pic below. How do I prevent this from happening? I'd like to have a smooth top surface. I note in the "Practical Bee..." book it says that if 'wax cools rapidly the blocks will crack.' I have been doing this on warm/hot days so not sure what the solution is, apart from a warm-turned-off oven which I don't think is ideal. Thanks.
  2. How do i get my supers (10-20) extracted in the Waikato area? I'd also like to be able to sell some of this honey? Thanks
  3. Hi all, Hopefully a simple question that I think I know the answer to, but I'm wanting confirmation. I had some extracted boxes that had been stored 'wet' as I was led to believe this was the best way to store them over winter - all contained in a very large plastic bag. 2 x 3/4 boxes with 10 frames each. When I came to take them out, I realised that wax moths had gone through them and completely ruined the frames. Must have had a hole in the large bag, as i had also sealed it! I know I can freeze them to kill the larvae & moths, but I wonder if there is any point? The wax in the frames is ruined, so is the best solution to burn them? Or is it worth trying saving the wooden frames and removing the wax - not sure how? Then adding new foundation back into the frames? Suggestions please :-) Thanks Andy
  4. I checked my hive yesterday and found bad infestation of Wax moth.Never had it before but lots of droppings and bee cocoons about 14 and wrecked comb ( frames are all plastic) Couldn't find queen. Found some capped and a little uncapped brood...only drones.(Drone layer)If I put in a new mated queen would the hive revive, without starting from scratch..There are about 3 frames of honey in the Super.
  5. I am noticing that despite the honey flow continuing around here albeit a little slower, I am adding supers despite the two existing supers not being fully capped. I am assuming the high humidity will be making it difficult for the girls to reduce the moisture content prior to capping.
  6. Hi, I’ve got 2 hives that I removed Varroa strips a week ago. Both have 1 honey super on (from old drawn comb) and the girls are filling it fast and have started capping frames. I want to add a second super but only have new foundation, no old comb. I was going to move a couple of frames up into the new Super to help the bees move up. Should I just let them get on with drawing out the foundation or would a feed promote them drawing the foundation? My worry in doing this is that that the syrup will end up in the honey frames. thanks in advance!
  7. BJC

    GWA Honey Dew

    I have four hives with one super each just about fully capped and surrounded by Willows that are dripping with honey dew from the GWA. The bees are starting to work the honey dew now, any tips on what to do from here? Harvest whats there now?
  8. So I have been reading up on how to transfer frames of brood to strengthen hives. Do the nurse bees with that brood need to be removed or can they be transferred as well? I suspect they need to be left behind, but it would certainly strengthen the other hive if they got nurses and brood.
  9. As I only have a few hives I collect my honey by scraping the honey/wax into a bucket with a strainer.I end up with lots of wax but it still contains quite a lot of honey.I did try washing the remaining wax to remove the honey but lots of the wax melts and I lose a lot and still end up with quite a bit of honey still in the wax.What should I do to end up with clean wax? It seems a waste to dump it each time. ( I collected my first lot of honey today from one super) Really is satisfying keeping bees!
  10. I've found that one of the swarms I got recently is queenless as there are no eggs after a week. I had successfully made a two queen hive earlier so I'd like to take one of them out and give it to the queenless swarm. I've got a few of the ceracell queen cages and wanted to know how I can cage a queen without taking my gloves off. The few videos I saw involve just picking her up and placing her in with barehands but I don't feel comfortable taking my gloves off and I feel I might squish her using gloves. I do have one of those one hand queen catchers, but I'm guessing if I just immediately introduce her into the queenless swarm they might kill her.
  11. While I don't have any real purpose for them at this stage, I have a few ceracell polystyrene mating nucs. I figured I would get them drawn out at least then store them for when I need it. Can I fill it with 1:1 syrup, add a frame shake of bees in, seal it up and move it to a different site then open it up after a few days? This would be with no queen cell or queen, moved to a different site at least a few kilometers away.
  12. I'm a second year beekeeper. Three weeks ago I caught a swarm. On first inspection I did not see any eggs (I'm hopeless at spotting the queen). The hive was busy, lots of bees coming and going, even put on a second brood box on during this first inspection as they were fairly tight with space. On second inspection after going through all the frames (20), the only eggs I spotted were two, which were on the side of a cell. Also found a couple of large drone brood cells, which had already hatched. It looked like the hive was queenless! I have located three capped queen cells - what is the best way to introduce these? Should I made a nuc or two, or place all three in the hive? Should the capped queen cell be in a cover? If so what is best? Advice appreciated.
  13. I feel like I'm going to get criticized for this.. but keen to try this for the sake of experimenting and learning. I've got a small 1x FD box colony recovering from an infertile queen and I just introduced a new mated queen tonight. My idea is that I split this in half and add a mated queen into the queenless half. After a few days for the new queen to settle down and start laying, combine the halves in a FD box each, with newspaper and queen excluder(maybe with an entrance) between. Would this work or is there a better way I could do it? My goal is to try give it a boost to catch up for the honey flow. Your feedback would be appreciated.
  14. I saw people here talking about how spacing 8-9 frames instead of 10 results in more honey and become easier to uncap as the comb is drawn further out. Are there any downsides to doing this? If I space frames that have already been drawn out in a 10 frame box, would they draw it out further or does this need to be done with undrawn frames?
  15. I'm not sure if it matters but they were emergency queen cells. I used a hive tools sharp end to cut around the cells, then used the curved side to scoop it up from the frame. Overall I thought I was able to get a clean cut, but realised there was a hole on the bottom/the wall that touches the frame. The grub wasn't touching the wall with the hole so it looks undamaged, will it still survive? Otherwise how do you cut them out safely?
  16. Did you notice that we now have a Q&A forum in the form of a How Do I section? How is it different from other forums ?
  17. How strong is too strong a hive for a hobbyist to manage? Is it better to pauper split a double FD hive? This is possibly a subjective question and would also reflect experience, expectations, and practical management for the beek
  18. As of tonight I now own two new nucs and the swarm that took residence in the swarm lure. I've looked up before but start getting a bit confused as to which website to go to for registration. Could direct links be added for us newbies? Also, what happens if I move a hive to a new location for a couple of weeks and then move it back to original location (as otherwise it's too short a distance) do you update hive locations somewhere for this short a period? Thanks in advance ☺
  19. After a few inspections over a couple of weeks I've noticed the queen in one of my hives is still on the same frame. There are plenty of bees, food and brood, and on my last inspection I couldn't see any eggs (always hard to see) - not sure if she has stopped laying, or is having a break. I think she is a year old, and probably from a supersedure. Anyway, is there anything to be concerned about the queen being on the one frame? Thanks.
  20. So, one of my hives swarmed back on Sept 24 and I caught and rehoused them. Caught an afterswarm from the same hive a few days later (even though I thought that I had sorted them out!!). So, now I have three hives (all known quantities - strong and disease free), including the parent, all with laying queens. My main objective is to collect honey and I am planning on merging them back together for the flow. However, I like experimenting and two of the hives have not had a laying queen for a while, so was thinking about trying a double queen system... and I do understand that people say the double queen system creates more work. 1. Can I use the newspaper method with an extra QX successfully? 2. Is there a better method? 3. What are the pitfalls of putting a mother and a daughter together, or two sisters...? 4. Would I put a super between the two QR boxes? Or is this unnecessary. 5. Any other pertinent info would be appreciated. Note: I don't need more hives. I'm a hobbiest with 8 hives coming through the winter well and have recently caught 5 swarms and split other hives for nucs and my queen castle. Wife points are running low... Looking forward to your thoughts, cheers, Paul
  21. I wanted to try my hand at overwintering a nuc. What are the challenges around this and when is the last month I could safely make a 3 frame walk away split that would get strong enough to winter?
  22. Hi I am picking up a nuc this weekend from Kirwee bees. One of my colleagues used to keep bees and has given me all his old equipment as he now runs a B&B and cannot risk client getting stung. He reckons, knowing where I live, that I could potentially do a split late Dec/Early Jan. Is this right? I had thought a nuc would be all summer building up to a decent size. Just curious because I have 2 full size and 2 3/4 boxes, as well as a new top bar. My original intention was to put them into the topbar and maybe split them later. But if they are going to build up numbers that fast I might put them into the boxes first. The old stuff I have was from his last hive a couple of years ago. It had swarmed. I checked to make sure it hadn't died of disease. He soaked all the woodwork in bleach. Wax moth had cleaned up all the wax.
  23. Hey beeks! A beek from a backyard apiary 500 metres down the road from my two hives wants to downsize, so he’s offered to sell me a couple of his hives. My question is how can I get the bees to my apiary successfully without having them all go back to his apiary?
  24. Over winter I found that one of the hives was empty, no dead bees and honey is still there. I've scraped off all the wax from the box and scorched the inside with a torch to reuse. How can I diagnose this to determine if the frames would be safe to use? The concern being AFB Can I give frames with a bit of dead capped brood to existing hives? If the capped honey frames are safe to use and I'm in the process of making splits, should I give the capped honey to the donor hive or the split?