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  1. So the season’s chugging along quite well and the girls are bringing in the nectar… Filling up most of the box, so I add another super… then they fill that up… and the honey flow stops. Is there any way to get them to cap the honey? I was wondering if I could feed them some light syrup to stimulate wax production or something… but don’t want them to mix sugar in with honey.
  2. I HAVE BEEs IN THE FENCE FOE AT LEAST 4 YEARS THAT I CANNOT REMOVE AND THEREFORE WILL NEED TO PUT THE HIVE DOWN, WHAT IS THE BEST WAY OF DOING THIS?
  3. Hi Team, my name is Jess, I'm 33 and live in Auckland city. I'm a gardener by trade but have an extensive varied professional history. I love NZ and the land, the plants, the soil etc, and am seriously looking into producing honey and marketing internationally in small scale to start, but with big dreams! I am very down to earth, reliable and I gain trust easily. I think I can really sell something I believe in, and want to prove myself by getting into this market. I have always been passionate about bees and honey, and don't want to wait any longer to take the first step into this vent
  4. Okay, to give the background. Approx. 8 weeks ago I discovered one of my hives had no queen and a pile of supercedure cells. I thought "sweet,leave them to do their thing" I noticed 3 weeks later upon inspection that I couldn't find the queen. There was a small section of eggs and very young brood. Only 1 egg per cell. Looked normal so I thought I had a queen, not laying workers. I went back in today. It is full of drones and it is entirely drone brood. Not scattered but big, swathes of it, so I think it is a poorly mated queen. I certainly can't find her and It wasn't the warmest for mating f
  5. Could I use a 3/4 super as a swarm trap or am I better off with a FD box?
  6. Good day all, I am just getting into the bee scene, been reading and researching for the last 18 months to make sure this is something I would like to do. I have decided to build my own bee boxes and the way I am getting my bees is to trap a swarm, my swarm trap is ready to go and was starting to build my boxes from 19mm ply that was free. I know there is thoughts of buying your boxes being more cost effective and easier etc. I am currently attending a bee club (yet to join as a member) and looking for a mentor, have also obtained my equipment for this beeautiful hobby. I enjoy doing stu
  7. I want to unite a 6 frame 3/4 depth nuc that has a queen with a large hive which is queenless. I am planning to transfer the nuc into a box then immediately put it on top of the large hive using the newspaper method. The nuc is currently about 10m away from the large hive. My question is how do I move the nuc without the foraging bees from the nuc getting lost or staying at the original location? I wondered about moving the nuc into the box and putting it on the large hive in the late afternoon, and then putting the empty nuc box back in the original location and hope that any bees that
  8. How long can I keep mated queens with attendants in a queen cage for? Or is there a better solution? So, I’ve got nine newly mated queens that I need to remove from my queen castles because I have ripe cells to replace them with tomorrow (day 10). I am going to use the mated queens to replace old queens, but the forecast is terrible for opening hives for a seek and destroy mission tomorrow. And Im going hunting on Monday.... will they last until Tuesday, or do I need to set up a ‘bank’?
  9. How do you set up your sloped site to best manage about 10 or so hives. In my case i can drive the truck right to the bottom of the site. Also, do sheep rub on hives and do i need to protect them? cheers, Paul
  10. Yes, the forecast is bleak and I haven’t had to do this before... So, what is the best method for harvesting ripe queen cells and transferring them to nucs at another apiary? Obviously it’s the bad weather and opening lots of hives is my concern. I dont have an incubator.
  11. I have 2 hives, one healthy and one that has been queenless for several weeks at least. I knew there was something wrong with it but only had the chance to look thoroughly this week when I shook off the bees (was mostly focused of checking for signs of AFB) and noticed no open brood or eggs, a reduction in honey and just a lot of pollen or vacant cells in the lower box. They have been grumpy for some time. I noticed one queen cell with a developed pupa in it but not closed yet so they are trying to sort it out themselves. If she does survive/mate/lay this will take several weeks by which t
  12. Due to reasons, I won't be able to add a queen to a hive that was made queenless approx 9 days ago. I was expecting to add it after 3 days but stuff happened. I presume they will have started on queen cells. Should I hunt them out and remove them when I introduce the queen? What are the potential risks? Virgin killing the queen or swarming?
  13. I see from the forum that the commercial guys are feeding their hives at the moment with the rough weather. My school hives have quite a lot of honey stored so I presume they should be okay. Is it only hives without honey in honey supers you have to worry about? Or do I need to give everything a topup?
  14. I am considering joining two FD brood boxes together using the newspaper method. The queen will be in the top box. Does this matter? I can't simply rearrange boxes as the box that will be on the bottom is one I modified to accept an oxalic acid vaporiser and has a 17mm strip around the base, with an entrance gap. Thank you
  15. 1. Do the attendants in a queen cage feed the queen using the candy or just what they have 'on board'? (in other words will they feed her regardless of immediate access to food?) 2. Should I move some of my mating nucs to different areas (my apiaries in different locations) to access a wider variety of drones/jeans, rather than just mating my queens at/from home (naturally)? Cheers
  16. So there is a tree with a deep crevice running into it, inside of which bees have set up their home. The depth is such that reaching in I couldn't even feel where they were. So I'm wondering how I can coax them out and capture them.
  17. Hi All, A google search to a problem I’m having turned up am Americans similar question on this forum, I just wanted to pick the brains of the bee knowledgable community. I have a property in the Waikato, with security cameras, all of a sudden (September) I am getting up to 100 activations a day from one of these cameras from what look to me (your opinion may correct me) like bees sometimes bumble bees, more than wasps, being drawn directly to the camera, and landing by the lens and interacting with (attacking/mating with/pollinating). Google is awash with c
  18. Background; First check of the season done a few days ago. Couldn’t see brood but colony numbers seemed quite good. Orange, yellow sandy white coloured pollen coming in at Tanners Point. Just one Wintered down new hive -bees looked happy all winter. Very active. Have been top feeding my one hive over Winter having started with a nuc in late Autumn (long story, exited Auckland, returned to live in childhood stomping ground, thought I had swarm, didn’t, local commercial beekeeper took pity on me with a lovely nucleus and is now mentoring me when I need it) Colony seems to have expanded in n
  19. Some of my honey is very, coursely crystallised.. I mixed in about 1 tablespoon of a finer honey and stirred and stirred.. Still the same.
  20. I have been melting wax and putting them into moulds or pots but unfortunately when the wax sets, it splits or cracks at the surface. See the pic below. How do I prevent this from happening? I'd like to have a smooth top surface. I note in the "Practical Bee..." book it says that if 'wax cools rapidly the blocks will crack.' I have been doing this on warm/hot days so not sure what the solution is, apart from a warm-turned-off oven which I don't think is ideal. Thanks.
  21. How do i get my supers (10-20) extracted in the Waikato area? I'd also like to be able to sell some of this honey? Thanks
  22. Hi all, Hopefully a simple question that I think I know the answer to, but I'm wanting confirmation. I had some extracted boxes that had been stored 'wet' as I was led to believe this was the best way to store them over winter - all contained in a very large plastic bag. 2 x 3/4 boxes with 10 frames each. When I came to take them out, I realised that wax moths had gone through them and completely ruined the frames. Must have had a hole in the large bag, as i had also sealed it! I know I can freeze them to kill the larvae & moths, but I wonder if ther
  23. I checked my hive yesterday and found bad infestation of Wax moth.Never had it before but lots of droppings and bee cocoons about 14 and wrecked comb ( frames are all plastic) Couldn't find queen. Found some capped and a little uncapped brood...only drones.(Drone layer)If I put in a new mated queen would the hive revive, without starting from scratch..There are about 3 frames of honey in the Super.
  24. I am noticing that despite the honey flow continuing around here albeit a little slower, I am adding supers despite the two existing supers not being fully capped. I am assuming the high humidity will be making it difficult for the girls to reduce the moisture content prior to capping.
  25. Hi, I’ve got 2 hives that I removed Varroa strips a week ago. Both have 1 honey super on (from old drawn comb) and the girls are filling it fast and have started capping frames. I want to add a second super but only have new foundation, no old comb. I was going to move a couple of frames up into the new Super to help the bees move up. Should I just let them get on with drawing out the foundation or would a feed promote them drawing the foundation? My worry in doing this is that that the syrup will end up in the honey frames. thanks in advance!
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