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Found 38 results

  1. Due to reasons, I won't be able to add a queen to a hive that was made queenless approx 9 days ago. I was expecting to add it after 3 days but stuff happened. I presume they will have started on queen cells. Should I hunt them out and remove them when I introduce the queen? What are the potential risks? Virgin killing the queen or swarming?
  2. I see from the forum that the commercial guys are feeding their hives at the moment with the rough weather. My school hives have quite a lot of honey stored so I presume they should be okay. Is it only hives without honey in honey supers you have to worry about? Or do I need to give everything a topup?
  3. I am considering joining two FD brood boxes together using the newspaper method. The queen will be in the top box. Does this matter? I can't simply rearrange boxes as the box that will be on the bottom is one I modified to accept an oxalic acid vaporiser and has a 17mm strip around the base, with an entrance gap. Thank you
  4. 1. Do the attendants in a queen cage feed the queen using the candy or just what they have 'on board'? (in other words will they feed her regardless of immediate access to food?) 2. Should I move some of my mating nucs to different areas (my apiaries in different locations) to access a wider variety of drones/jeans, rather than just mating my queens at/from home (naturally)? Cheers
  5. So there is a tree with a deep crevice running into it, inside of which bees have set up their home. The depth is such that reaching in I couldn't even feel where they were. So I'm wondering how I can coax them out and capture them.
  6. Hi All, A google search to a problem I’m having turned up am Americans similar question on this forum, I just wanted to pick the brains of the bee knowledgable community. I have a property in the Waikato, with security cameras, all of a sudden (September) I am getting up to 100 activations a day from one of these cameras from what look to me (your opinion may correct me) like bees sometimes bumble bees, more than wasps, being drawn directly to the camera, and landing by the lens and interacting with (attacking/mating with/pollinating). Google is awash with conflicting uneducated (and pro insecticide) opinions, so I thought I’d ask those who know, what is going on, and what I can do to dissuade them, If bees, obviously a non harmful technique (ie not an insecticide) is preferred. there is not a “wasp nest behind the camera” a couple of factors I’ve considered are -camera uses infra red for its night vision, can’t get a definitive of this is on during day too. could this be attractive to bees? -this camera attaches via a strong magnet, the other ones on my property don’t and while get buzzed occasionally, don’t seem as attractive. any suggestions and solutions greatly appreciated. I have attached a compressed edited video below, and a link to the product. positioned on a patio, easy facing, under clearlight. https://www.arlo.com/en-us/products/arlo-pro/default.aspx E4793E9F-339F-4844-9939-D626C3714FEB.mov
  7. Background; First check of the season done a few days ago. Couldn’t see brood but colony numbers seemed quite good. Orange, yellow sandy white coloured pollen coming in at Tanners Point. Just one Wintered down new hive -bees looked happy all winter. Very active. Have been top feeding my one hive over Winter having started with a nuc in late Autumn (long story, exited Auckland, returned to live in childhood stomping ground, thought I had swarm, didn’t, local commercial beekeeper took pity on me with a lovely nucleus and is now mentoring me when I need it) Colony seems to have expanded in numbers from 5 frames to 8 and amply covers all but the outside frames which are plastic. Full depth brood box. My girls seem to be stoically refusing to draw out comb on these outside frames. Bottom board was all wet and funky so I replaced it with a dry cedar bottom board. Kept the small winter entrance on. Did a quick initial check only- since the weather was changeable-8/10 frames choka with honey (and probably pollen when I take a closer look). Couldn’t spot any brood, and being a new bee hobbyist have had a slightly sleepless night worrying there’s no brood, and is my queen ok. Feel slightly better reading Dansars post re no brood yet. Replaced those undrawn frames with my only two decent drawn frames and moved them to position 4 and 7. 8/10 frames chock full of capped honey in what should be a brood box . Will have another closer look for queen on the next sunny day. I’m fairly confident she’s there. Colony very calm and busy all through Winter, bringing in nectar and pollen. Young active hive with a young mated queen who doesn’t seem to be laying at the moment but all indications are that she is present. I Only have undrawn 3/4 frames and supers now -wax moth got all my other decent drawn out frames in the chaos of storage during move. Old hive ware all 3/4D. New Hiveware FD. Tanners point has a very mild climate and lots of flowers so our season might be early here, we are right on the sea, so Winter overnight temps 5-8 degrees, day temps are between 12-18degrees at the moment. Questions: -do I need to find the queen? It seems a bit chilly still to unpick the hive....Wait till it’s a sunny day and temperature reaches 20 degrees to do a proper check and clean up of burr comb? -when do I Stop feeding sugar syrup? The colony seems to be doing well with it available....I’m hesitant to stop. -putting two capped honey frames in the 1 and 10 positions seems daft if the Bees aren’t doing that- they had two empty undrawn frames on the outer edges where it was cold and damp, should I take these capped honey frames out and put the empty plastic frames back in position 1 and 10? -at what temperature range is it reasonable to add another empty undrawn FD brood box? There’s no room for the queen to lay in this existing honey filled brood box... -Do I take capped honey out (and pollen probably) on FD frames, and keep it stored in a cool place, sealed away from wax moth -to put back later as bees require it? -my new colony is on FD frames. My existing hive ware is all 3/4 D and ihave enough ready to go for 2 x 6 super hives all 3/4 D. So- I’m planning to have the 2brood boxes FD and the honey supers 3/4 D. (Lifting FD honey supers might be a stretch for me)-do you see problems with this initial plan? -when can I put another empty super FD brood box on? Baring in mind this new FD super only the new black plastic frames undrawn as yet, so it is going to take the workers a while to draw it out for queen to lay brood.
  8. Some of my honey is very, coursely crystallised.. I mixed in about 1 tablespoon of a finer honey and stirred and stirred.. Still the same.
  9. I have been melting wax and putting them into moulds or pots but unfortunately when the wax sets, it splits or cracks at the surface. See the pic below. How do I prevent this from happening? I'd like to have a smooth top surface. I note in the "Practical Bee..." book it says that if 'wax cools rapidly the blocks will crack.' I have been doing this on warm/hot days so not sure what the solution is, apart from a warm-turned-off oven which I don't think is ideal. Thanks.
  10. How do i get my supers (10-20) extracted in the Waikato area? I'd also like to be able to sell some of this honey? Thanks
  11. Hi all, Hopefully a simple question that I think I know the answer to, but I'm wanting confirmation. I had some extracted boxes that had been stored 'wet' as I was led to believe this was the best way to store them over winter - all contained in a very large plastic bag. 2 x 3/4 boxes with 10 frames each. When I came to take them out, I realised that wax moths had gone through them and completely ruined the frames. Must have had a hole in the large bag, as i had also sealed it! I know I can freeze them to kill the larvae & moths, but I wonder if there is any point? The wax in the frames is ruined, so is the best solution to burn them? Or is it worth trying saving the wooden frames and removing the wax - not sure how? Then adding new foundation back into the frames? Suggestions please :-) Thanks Andy
  12. I checked my hive yesterday and found bad infestation of Wax moth.Never had it before but lots of droppings and bee cocoons about 14 and wrecked comb ( frames are all plastic) Couldn't find queen. Found some capped and a little uncapped brood...only drones.(Drone layer)If I put in a new mated queen would the hive revive, without starting from scratch..There are about 3 frames of honey in the Super.
  13. I am noticing that despite the honey flow continuing around here albeit a little slower, I am adding supers despite the two existing supers not being fully capped. I am assuming the high humidity will be making it difficult for the girls to reduce the moisture content prior to capping.
  14. Hi, I’ve got 2 hives that I removed Varroa strips a week ago. Both have 1 honey super on (from old drawn comb) and the girls are filling it fast and have started capping frames. I want to add a second super but only have new foundation, no old comb. I was going to move a couple of frames up into the new Super to help the bees move up. Should I just let them get on with drawing out the foundation or would a feed promote them drawing the foundation? My worry in doing this is that that the syrup will end up in the honey frames. thanks in advance!
  15. BJC

    GWA Honey Dew

    I have four hives with one super each just about fully capped and surrounded by Willows that are dripping with honey dew from the GWA. The bees are starting to work the honey dew now, any tips on what to do from here? Harvest whats there now?
  16. So I have been reading up on how to transfer frames of brood to strengthen hives. Do the nurse bees with that brood need to be removed or can they be transferred as well? I suspect they need to be left behind, but it would certainly strengthen the other hive if they got nurses and brood.
  17. As I only have a few hives I collect my honey by scraping the honey/wax into a bucket with a strainer.I end up with lots of wax but it still contains quite a lot of honey.I did try washing the remaining wax to remove the honey but lots of the wax melts and I lose a lot and still end up with quite a bit of honey still in the wax.What should I do to end up with clean wax? It seems a waste to dump it each time. ( I collected my first lot of honey today from one super) Really is satisfying keeping bees!
  18. I've found that one of the swarms I got recently is queenless as there are no eggs after a week. I had successfully made a two queen hive earlier so I'd like to take one of them out and give it to the queenless swarm. I've got a few of the ceracell queen cages and wanted to know how I can cage a queen without taking my gloves off. The few videos I saw involve just picking her up and placing her in with barehands but I don't feel comfortable taking my gloves off and I feel I might squish her using gloves. I do have one of those one hand queen catchers, but I'm guessing if I just immediately introduce her into the queenless swarm they might kill her.
  19. While I don't have any real purpose for them at this stage, I have a few ceracell polystyrene mating nucs. I figured I would get them drawn out at least then store them for when I need it. Can I fill it with 1:1 syrup, add a frame shake of bees in, seal it up and move it to a different site then open it up after a few days? This would be with no queen cell or queen, moved to a different site at least a few kilometers away.
  20. I'm a second year beekeeper. Three weeks ago I caught a swarm. On first inspection I did not see any eggs (I'm hopeless at spotting the queen). The hive was busy, lots of bees coming and going, even put on a second brood box on during this first inspection as they were fairly tight with space. On second inspection after going through all the frames (20), the only eggs I spotted were two, which were on the side of a cell. Also found a couple of large drone brood cells, which had already hatched. It looked like the hive was queenless! I have located three capped queen cells - what is the best way to introduce these? Should I made a nuc or two, or place all three in the hive? Should the capped queen cell be in a cover? If so what is best? Advice appreciated.
  21. I feel like I'm going to get criticized for this.. but keen to try this for the sake of experimenting and learning. I've got a small 1x FD box colony recovering from an infertile queen and I just introduced a new mated queen tonight. My idea is that I split this in half and add a mated queen into the queenless half. After a few days for the new queen to settle down and start laying, combine the halves in a FD box each, with newspaper and queen excluder(maybe with an entrance) between. Would this work or is there a better way I could do it? My goal is to try give it a boost to catch up for the honey flow. Your feedback would be appreciated.
  22. I saw people here talking about how spacing 8-9 frames instead of 10 results in more honey and become easier to uncap as the comb is drawn further out. Are there any downsides to doing this? If I space frames that have already been drawn out in a 10 frame box, would they draw it out further or does this need to be done with undrawn frames?
  23. I'm not sure if it matters but they were emergency queen cells. I used a hive tools sharp end to cut around the cells, then used the curved side to scoop it up from the frame. Overall I thought I was able to get a clean cut, but realised there was a hole on the bottom/the wall that touches the frame. The grub wasn't touching the wall with the hole so it looks undamaged, will it still survive? Otherwise how do you cut them out safely?
  24. Did you notice that we now have a Q&A forum in the form of a How Do I section? How is it different from other forums ?
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