Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'NZBF'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • News & Announcements
    • NZ Beekeeping Announcements
    • Swarm Removal Requests
  • Tradebee & CommercialBee
    • CommercialBee: Sales
    • TradeBee: Beekeeping, buy, sell & exchange.
  • New Zealand Beekeeping
    • General Beekeeping
    • Commercial Beekeepers
    • Beginner Beekeepers
    • New Zealand Beekeeping How Do I ?
    • Alternative Beekeeping
    • Hives & Equipment
    • Disease & Pests
    • Breeding Bees
    • Bee Products & Recipes
    • Bees in the Media
    • Plants and Blossoms
  • International Beekeeping
    • International Beekeeping Forum
  • NZ Equipment Suppliers
    • Ecrotek
    • Ceracell
  • Beekeeping Groups and Clubs
    • BOP Bee Interest Group
  • Forum Support & Bug Reports
  • Archived area
    • Archive
  • BOP's BOP Bee Interest Group Forums
  • Selwyn Beekeepers's Meeting today
  • Marlborough Beekeepers Association's Discussion Forum
  • Beekeepers Hawkes Bay Incorporated's BHBI Forums

Calendars

  • Community Calendar
  • BOP's Events
  • Selwyn Beekeepers's Events
  • Marlborough Beekeepers Association's MBA Calendar
  • Beekeepers Hawkes Bay Incorporated's BHBI Events

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Categories

  • Documents
    • General Beekeeping
    • Hives & Equipment
    • Disease & Pests
    • Breeding Bees
    • Bee Products & Recipes
    • Plants & Blossoms
    • Bees in the Media
  • Club Newsletters

Categories

  • Retail Produce For Sale
  • Retail Bees & Hives For Sale
  • Equipment For Sale
  • Commercial Produce For Sale
  • Commercial Bees & Hives For Sale

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Swarm Collection Area


Business name


Beekeeping Experience


Business phone


Business email


Facebook


Google Talk


Skype


Twitter


Location

Found 1845 results

  1. Hi everyone, This is my first post. Am about to take an introductory bee keeping course starting next week and looking forward to it. I'm thinking about best location on my property for a couple of beehives, and understand that they should be north facing and in the sun as early as possible. The concern is that we are on a street corner and all the good north facing locations are near the street. We are fenced off so I can put the hives behind the fence line, but not sure how close to the street they should be. Also not sure if the bees will get bothered by car noise? We often get petrolheads spinning their wheels and the occasional motorbike blasting by... What do people suggest? Thanks!
  2. Hi. Wanted to say hi as a new member and also ask a couple of questions. 1. Hi. Im a newbie keeper...got my hive late autumn and so am experiencing the joys of new parenthood. The hive is a full depth wooden longstroth but i also have a flow hive assembled to try a second colony with at some stage. Im based in chch, bishopdale, and have the hive in our rented back yard. Within a couple of weeks of getting the nuc it had bees outside the hive with chewed wing syndrome. Possibly the first round of brood hatching. Treated with baverol and no recurrence. I fed through winter with raw sugar and put on a plastic feeder tray as got a lot of sugar exiting the hive when feeding on the bottom board. The last two weeks have seen a big increase in activity with a lot of drones flying in and out so thats healthy. A lot of bearding this week and oddly a lot tonight just before 8pm...well after sun is off the hive. Am about to have first decca inspection so will see how well im doing. The activity seen makes me think a second box will be needed shortly. Ill no for certain when the inspection happens this week. 2. Does any one know bee keepers around chch who might like an occaisional day of free and novice help? Im pretty strong and have my own suit etc. I could use the experience and am happy to trade labour for learning for a few days. Has anyone used a flow hive in chch. Im told they might not be warm enough ... but they were tested in canada..and its cold there. 3. Is there anyone in chch who would like to put a hive in a school. The local intermediate is thinking about it. Alternatively im happy to provide a flow hive if some one has bees for the s hool to get them going. Any way. Hi.
  3. I have just put swarm into bee box and noticed this bee on the front. Much darker colour than the other bees? Is it a worker or new queen?
  4. Say I transferred a frame of brood to a weaker hive that had a queen cell a couple of days along in the process, would the recipient hive finish the off, if they were queenless? Or would they look for young larvae from their old queen? Just thinking that if I had a hive I was going to requeen, I could speed up the process a little. Not that I am going to do it, but just a thought I had.
  5. I left a ton of honey on last Autumn because I know how much mess it can make over Winter in my garage! My question is.. How do beeks manage the excess frames of uncapped honey when taking hives down to two or three boxes over Winter? Over the years I seem to be collecting a lot of old hard honey, and some mouldy frames etc.etc I would like to learn a better end of Season clean up process.
  6. Hi - I am in the process of changing over from full-depth to three-quarter bee boxes (see picture below). Currently, I have a full-depth box at the bottom (brood chamber), and two three-quarter boxes above with undrawn wax foundation. I do not have a queen excluder in place at the moment. I am trying to formulate a plan for what I'm trying to do here (!), so just thought I would get some advice. Do I totally remove the brood chamber (full-depth box) after the brood have hatched (21 days from now), and then add a queen excluder and check the queen is in the second box? Should I add another three-quarter box on top when I have removed the full-depth box? Will the bees have enough food stores if I have removed all the full-depth frames (except for those currently in the brood box)? Should I be feeding them now? Thanks so much for your help - sorry about all the questions!
  7. If I had a strong 5 frame nuc right now and I pop in a freshly mated spring queen, or even an autumn queen, could it build up enough to get a crop off? It is still quite cold down here, even the odd frost. Maybe give it a pollen pattie and some syrup to stimulate it. For a colleague who is starting out and has plenty of drawn comb from a failed attempt 2 years ago (colony collaped due to using thymovar and hope as a varroa treatment and was robbed out).
  8. Checked my tiny DWV hive today. The Q is laying but they have a lot of cleaning up to do. I lifted a new frame to find large hole with dead mouse attached!! They have a mouse guard on AND a block of wood in front of hole. There are chew marks at entrance. How on earth does a large mouse get in? Another Question. There were uncapped cells with white bees in. One had been pulled out. Likely all of these had bad DWV? I know they can hatch with no wings. I used a matchstick to pull them out as all of these were in the centre of a newly laid frame. Is it helpfull to do this for the bees? They have so few bees to do so much work.
  9. SORRY. LONG...I am full of a cold.😫 On the good side!! Nose far too drippy/sneazy to go to work tommorrow. Taking Sunday off is a total no no.. but yay I am getting dipping day off.😁 So I sorted through my boxes, because Bee club has a dipping day tommorrow. Going through my boxes finding which ones could do with a plane? You know. Smooth out my bad carpentry. Minimise bee stress!. And DAMN! found evidence of wax moth in my frames even though they seemed clear 2 weeks ago. I filled the last room in the freezer with any frames that have pollen/food etc. And have more frames in a plastic box. The new frames, I have removed any evidence I can of wax moth , and put them in reasonably clean boxes. Is this enough? What IS the life cycle of a wax moth?
  10. Every Spring its probably really important to remind beginners of the perils ahead. It wasn't that long ago that I was a beginner myself and one who possibly like many others didn't easily heed the advice of others. After all, how hard could it be? The mistake I made was to live for the day and not realize that while the Hives appeared to be really healthy and expanding through the early summer months, so were the varroa. We now know that the expansion of the hive mirrors the expansion of the Varroa Mite in the untreated Hive. So when things look very good and the Hive appears indestructible, immediately start to plan your Varroa treatments. It doesn't matter whether its Bayvarol , Apivar or an organic acid, the important thing is to accept that something has to be done to counter the Mites that will otherwise kill your hive in the late Autumn.
  11. Reading about feeding. (Thanks to Josh. 109 pages😮🤔) Reading old articles about Honey Bee Healthy. There was a recipe for X amount of water,sugar. Lecithin and 15 drops each of Lemongrass and Spearment oils ( Stating available on TM) Q1? What exactly is the Lemongrass and Spearment good for? ( I have heard to spray Lemongrass when making a lure) Q2? What other oils do Beeks use? And why/how? ( Thyme etc.) I am a member of Dottera. Their essential oils are very pure. Many are food grade. I regularly use lemongrass and lots of others in cooking. 3 drops of lemongrass flavours an entire curry! SO with that in mind. If making supplements, I imagine I would not need many drops? Anyone experemented with much of this?
  12. Hi, I had a small colony at the end of last year, and reduced it to a nuc for winter and brought it to my home apiary (better shelter, and winter long urban supplies). Opened it up last week and the amount of water inside was disappointing. I'd even made a corflute roof to cover the hive, and it has all the extra vents added around the sides in addition to front and back. And it smelt a bit meady (wet debris on floor). Despite, it is doing well, but disappointing how wet it is. Never seen this before. It's sheltered from South rain and winds, get some sun every day. Its neighbouring hive is dry. Interestingly at my other apiary of two hives, I left the feeders on all winter. One hive is dry. The other one had about 5L of water in the feeder with a soaking top cover. Underneath it was really strong but again never met so much water before. The wet hive has a sprung lid (I know some think these are leakers) but that doesn't explain the nuc. Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated.
  13. My two hives are skint of food. Fed them nearly 3 cups of sugar in 3 cups water. Between the two hives in a top feeder.They were pingy! You know... Is it pipping at the veil? Annoyed. Not relaxed..How often should I check? How much should I feed?
  14. Hi there, this may be a silly question but does the frame type i am putting in my full depth super box matter? I have purchased full frame pre waxed (30g) Plastic Hoffmans and thinking of putting 8 frames in the super. I don't have many pre drawn frames so any tips on encouraging the super frames drawn out faster would be great, Thank you Sam
  15. I saw on Ecrotek a varroa mat for the original hive Dr. Recently I had trouble with my hive Dr because I configured boxes wrongly and created a robbing situation, made worse by sugar dropping through slats in HDr floor. My thoughts were that a mat might lesson the droppage out of floor? And be slightly warmer? Can you tell me? 1. Is this the original HDr? 2. What is the bar shown in pic that goes up and down?8
  16. Hi all, I have a few buckets of crystallized honey - any top tips on how to make it runny again so I can bottle it up? Thanks Actually - have just found some great videos on YouTube that can help me, so all good.
  17. Spring clean up wasn't good. 20190825_150321.mp4 20190825_150321.mp4 20190825_150321.mp4 20190825_150321.mp4 Help please.
  18. Hi folks, I'm a beginner beekeeper and purchased a single box hive at the beginning of winter. I checked it for the first time today and didn't observe any brood, capped or uncapped, and marginal amounts of pollen. There was some capped honey at the edges of the outer frames but not a lot. It seemed that many cells were completely empty and I couldn't see any eggs. I also didn't see a queen or any drones. So, a couple of questions: Should there be brood present during this time of year? Could it be that the hive is now queenless, and if so, what do I do and how quickly do I need to do it? Apologies, a complete novice here. Many thanks in advance, Anna
  19. Today I decided to unite the queenless with the queenright hive. Using "Practical Beekeeping" book advice I put the weak hive on the bottom (in the strong hive spot)followed by newspaper and the strong queenright hive on top. So far all good. What I forgot about was the top feeders which each had quite a bit of comb and bees under the plastic covers. I shook them out as much as possible but now I have a mound of bees in the old weak hive site and a mound of bees unwilling to reenter the new weak hive entrance (which I take to be foraging bees returning to the strong hive and finding things have changed). Hmmm feeling like it's a bit of a dog's breakfast right now. I have jacked up the top box so those bees can hopefully find a way back into their box....And have placed a nuc in the old weak beehive site to hopefully collect stragglers. If I do get stragglers how can I reintegrate them?
  20. Due to a recently-occurring event, a few of us beginner keepers in the Valley now find ourselves without the help, guidance, and hive inspections we valued so much. We are seeking to establish a new rapport with another mentor and are looking for direction in doing this. We'd thought that the job would suit a senior or retired keeper with AFB and bee disease credentials and the patience to steer inexperienced individuals down the right path. Recompense and all the tea they can drink will be supplied on site. Thanks, John.
  21. ☺️Queen that was broodless in Autumn back to laying again. Apivar treatments in today & 3 part frames of brood. This hive was full of Varroa in Autumn according to tray under Hive doctor bottom after Bayvarol treatment so Bayvarol still effective.
  22. Hi guys, what types of pollen would be coming in in Waipa at the moment? Just curious 😃
  23. Sneaking a peek under the lids of our hives yesterday because it's too cold to open, one of them has numerous cockroaches diving for cover among the frames. Numerous as in maybe five, and ranging from around 5mm to around 12mm. I replaced the lid and came back in half an hour to the same sort of activity. I'd be very surprised if they were the same roaches and that seems to suggest an infestation. Advice please, on whether cockroaches in a hive are BAD and what to do about it. Ought the girls to be dealing to them? If not why not. Thanks.
  24. HI, I've kept bees before but not recently and I now know that I previously had lots of gaps in knowledge. I'm planning to set up this winter but have some questions: I previously found the full supers too heavy for the 2 of us to lift easily so would like to get half depth or 5 frames. I only want enough honey for a small household so I thought this might be adequate. I've had advice though that it's better to get 8 frames as 5 frames are hardly worth the trouble. What do you think? Would I be better with fewer frames or lesser depth? I know I'll not have standard accessories available for non-standard sizes so don't want to limit myself. Are painted non-treated supers as good as the Tan E or Thermowood that Ceracell sell? For my small operation do you think I should get a bee blower or will bee escapes and smoking be enough? WE've all gone a bit anti-plastic so I thought I'd give wood frames with wire a go. A bit nervous about the change as I previously found the plastic frames easy to deal with I want the hobby to be as enjoyable and trouble-free as possible so any advice welcomed. Robin West Auckland
  25. Hi fellow beekeepers, I've had a hive which has been queenless for a while now. When I first noticed it, I added a frame of young brood from another hive, but they didn't raise a queen from that brood. So, I added another frame of brood - still no queen. Why wouldn't they raise a queen from the brood (contained lots of eggs to choose from), when they clearly don't have a queen. No sign of disease in the hive, nor large numbers of dead bees. As you'd expect, they have plenty of honey - they haven't had to raise brood for a while now. Now the bee numbers have really started to fall off (end of season, and no laying queen). Interesting that no laying workers have materialised, maybe because of the added frames of brood? It has been a lovely Auckland autumn with warm weather, but I'm wondering whether it is too late in the season to save this hive. I've just ordered a new queen, and hope to place her in the hive tomorrow.
×
×
  • Create New...