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Found 1863 results

  1. Hi. Wanted to say hi as a new member and also ask a couple of questions. 1. Hi. Im a newbie keeper...got my hive late autumn and so am experiencing the joys of new parenthood. The hive is a full depth wooden longstroth but i also have a flow hive assembled to try a second colony with at some stage. Im based in chch, bishopdale, and have the hive in our rented back yard. Within a couple of weeks of getting the nuc it had bees outside the hive with chewed wing syndrome. Possibly the first round of brood hatching. Treated with baverol and no recurrence. I fed through winter with raw sugar and put on a plastic feeder tray as got a lot of sugar exiting the hive when feeding on the bottom board. The last two weeks have seen a big increase in activity with a lot of drones flying in and out so thats healthy. A lot of bearding this week and oddly a lot tonight just before 8pm...well after sun is off the hive. Am about to have first decca inspection so will see how well im doing. The activity seen makes me think a second box will be needed shortly. Ill no for certain when the inspection happens this week. 2. Does any one know bee keepers around chch who might like an occaisional day of free and novice help? Im pretty strong and have my own suit etc. I could use the experience and am happy to trade labour for learning for a few days. Has anyone used a flow hive in chch. Im told they might not be warm enough ... but they were tested in canada..and its cold there. 3. Is there anyone in chch who would like to put a hive in a school. The local intermediate is thinking about it. Alternatively im happy to provide a flow hive if some one has bees for the s hool to get them going. Any way. Hi.
  2. Hi does anyone here know of anyone with a extraction plant for this coming honey season, around 150 box to extract.
  3. Spring clean up wasn't good. 20190825_150321.mp4 20190825_150321.mp4 20190825_150321.mp4 20190825_150321.mp4 Help please.
  4. Applied Apistan early Spring. All 3 hives look good now and are building up nicely. When cleaning up though, one hive board was covered with varroa mites. Am I to assume these are dead from treatment? I check weekly and will keep a keen eye on them. But if varroa is still present what do I do seeing as the honey flow has started. They were treated with thymol wafers in Autumn. One wafer must have dropped into bottom of box.
  5. Kia ora e hoa ma (hey friends) Wondering if you could help me. My bees have steadily been growing in numbers. I checked them again today and they are full to the brim. They had even build some cone in the underside of the feeder tray. So my questions are... - What are my next steps? - Do I chuck a second brood box on top? - If so, how do I do that? Do I take the frames from the outside and chuck them in the middle of the new box? I also spotted some interesting cells. Are the practise queen cells? See photo's below. Thanks for your help. Dave
  6. I am about to pic up a full depth nuc. Usually I run 2 x 3/4 brood boxes and 3/4 honey supers for ease of lifting. (nearly 60!😮) Anyway, I have 2 full depth boxes and 20 full depth frames that are not in use. So have been studying single brood box management. The maths says there is enough room for Q to lay. And from what I gather, attention to feeding is a must. BUT... Question? I heard somewhere that I need a full depth honey box on top of single brood box to allow for expansion if needed? They said I can put fully capped brood above QE and insert new frames for laying under.( in middle of brood nest) Other Utube stuff doesn't meantion this. And some have half size honey super on for feeding. Thoughts please?
  7. I'd really appreciate advice from learned beekeepers please... I have three questions (which I'll explain): 1) As the 2 Full Deep boxes are almost full, should I be looking to split the hive? 2) If so, Can I use 2 queen excluders to locate the queen?. 2) Should I extract or leave a specific frame? Any other thoughts much appreciated... Background: This is my third bee keeping season, I started with a weak nuc April 17, and through walk away splits, I now have 3 strong hives one with two brood boxes, the other two are singles. The first picture shows my strongest hive I have (ever had): 2 Full deep brood boxes and 2 x 3/4 supers. The top super is almost full and just needs some capping so I intend to remove and extract in the next week, and the under super is largely empty. It's the strongest hive that I've ever had, and I'm finding the hive management a bit of a challenge as the two full deeps are almost full of brood (8 frames), loads of pollen (6 frames), and the rest honey as full frames or bulging around brood. I'm nervous about the hive swarming, as there is very little space left. There are no swarm cells. with the high volume of bees, especially angry ones, I have been unable to locate the queen in the last 3 inspections. Q1) Should I be worried about swarming due to lack of space? (or is it too late in the season?), and therefore consider splitting? Q2) If looking to split, to locate the queen, can I use two queen excluders, one above and below the top brood box?, and then check for eggs in Brood box 1, 2, to know where the queen is? or is there a better method?. Q3) If I wanted to, can I extract this frame? / what is the impact of pollen in extracted frames? This frame is from the top brood box. There is honey around the outside, but I'm most interested in what was previously the brood area. I hear that bees don't cap pollen, but hear that bees can put nectar on top of pollen in cells. My inclination is to leave the frame for the bees over winter. If I wanted to extract the frame, could I?. I guess I'm asking, what is the impact of pollen in honey?. Any comments, much appreciated (still on my learning journey ;)) As an aside, and for a laugh, in my last inspection, I gloved up (leather instead of nitrile milking gloves) as I knew there was a bit of honey for the bees to protect. The hive was certainly on alert when I was removing frames to check for swarm cells, and I was feeling invincible, until.... I regretted my over confidence in wearing my ankle length socks when I was stung on my ankle below my suit and inside my long gumboots. two days later my ankle is still swollen. (it took me 2 minutes until I would find a bees free environment to remove the sting).
  8. I've been thinking about the best way for swarm prevention this season. The last 2 season's I've had a hive each swarm. Conveniently I was home when it happened and I caught them with out much incident. I don't really want to repeat this again this year. The last 2 years on the hives that didn't swarm I did walk away splits, and or spits into nuc boxes. I don't have the gear to do proper walk away splits, and I don't really want to get more lids/bases for it either. I now have 4 hives, 3 double FD brood and one Single FD brood. I've done some reading into virtical splits and I get the general gist, but I haven't quite figured out if once you do it you leave both hives as single FD's or slowly turn them into 2x FD and also what to do about Honey supers. Would it go Brood, super, split board, brood, then super? Does the split board need mesh in it so both hives can smell each other? At this stage I think there are only 2 hives that are strong enough and would want to swarm. The idea behind this is then to double queen after swarm season. Last year I tried 2 double queens and merged as per the NZ beekeeping book. Both hives went back to one queen each within a couple of weeks. Not that I was too bothered. Has anyone done this or have any ideas on the best way to do it. Cheers
  9. Hi there, I have x4 hives, only 2 of them have done well while Manuka in my area was flowering. So I have some supers of Mono floral Manuka. My question is, should I take them frames out and get them extracted now (local extraction plant) or just keep a note of which supers contain that honey and get it harvested separate to my other at the end of the season? Reason being I'm unsure with the kanuka and Pohutukawa flowering now wether the bees will start to mix it all together on these fames? Thanks for the advice.
  10. Hi, I'm a new beekeeper (1 year or so). My hives (All FD Frames) have gone into winter with 1 'Store' super and 1 Brood box, and come out of winter into spring where I treated the brood only for Varroa. The Varroa treatment says you shoukd not take honey from a hive which has had the treatment in - which is fine. The treatment has long been removed now. However, now that my hives are building up, I still have this winter store super on - What should I do with it? It's ~95% full, and I'd like to put new Honey Supers on as the hive is essentially full. Will the previous Varroa treatment cause any issues? Should I remove it, keep it in storage until next Winter? Keep it on? Something else? Currently the Hive is doing well in terms of growth, and honey supply in the brood box - this question is more about my own personal honey collection. Thanks!
  11. Hi, looking for some advise on repurposing frames. Last year we found the plastic frames used in the honey supers, were much easier to uncap, extract then the wooden ones, so this season are going all plastic for supers, I have a supply of first year wooden ex-super frames from the extraction, placed back into the hive as wets, cleaned up and then stored for this year and I would like to repurpose for the 2nd brood box. I also have a number wooden frames un-used (will need to purchase some wax sheets).... what is the best for the hive ?... all new undrawn waxed frames 10+, or ex honey super frames of which I have 40+... got about 50 plastic frames I am cleaning up for rewaxing. I have 4 hives to double storey, two are new NUCs. Appreciate feedback, thanks.
  12. This hive swarmed 3 weeks ago and still has no new queen. Existing brood looks like this. What are the sunken silvery cells? I have the swarm captured and plan to merge it with my other also queenless hive.
  13. HI all! First time poster, new backyard beekeeper here! Checked on our hive yesterday (currently single FD) and noticed there are a few queen cells! These were not there last week. I asked the tutor of my beeking night class course i did last tern what to do about them and she said to remove them. What is the best way to go about this?? I do not want the hive to swarm. There is capped brood in the centre frames (saw bees hatching when i checked yesterday, but difficulty spotting any new larvae) and pollen/honey, the frames are starting to stick together but the outer frames on both endsstill have not been drawn out yet (we have had this hive 7 weeks). Is this normal for this time frame? If not what can we do to encourage them to build their wax on the outer frames? Should we put another box on top? Partner was reluctant as they still have frames to draw out in the current box. All advice and feedback welcome!
  14. My bees swarmed today and I was lucky enough to be home to catch them. I’m unsure what to do next though! Few questions below: 1. Should I add some full brood frames from the last hive? If so, when should I do this? 2. The queen is already a few years old, how long would you wait to replace her? 3.can I place the swarm hive next to the old hive or is this confusing for the bees? 4. When’s a good time frame to expect the new queen to start laying? thanks in advance for the advice
  15. I have a queenless hive that swarmed in October. It has now been four weeks and they still appear to be queenless. A split of a different hive I have made has produced a new queen and equally from that original swarm they swarmed a second time with a virgin. This Virgin swarm is also now laying. This leads me to believe that the swarmed hive has failed to produce a queen despite two cells being left, as its now been 30 days. I plan now to recombine the virgin swarm (now laying queen) with the larger queenless hive. The swarm is going well in 3/4 boxes with now 5 frames of Brood and honey stores. I want to reduce my hive numbers and that is why I want to combine over giving a frame of eggs. I know that it isn't normal to combine via the newspaper method (with a QE) with the QR hive on top however the swarm hive is in the wrong location and the Queenless hive is in the right location. Equally the population of the QR swarm is less than that of the queenless hive. Can anyone see something blaringly wrong with this plan? I was planning to do this tomorrow evening once all the field bees are inside. I dont read much about the time of day to do the combination, am I actually better to just combine and all the field bees will beg there way into one of the hives nearby? Thanks Scott
  16. Long term, I am hoping to work less at my Garden Centre, and hope to supplement my income doing occasional market stalls. Only thinking very small scale....What is needed to be able to legally produce some honey/ honey products to sell at markets? Found info on food safety act etc. On line.
  17. I had a weird thing tonight. 11pm. The hive has a beard thats quietly humming. 20degrees. Not much wind. I assume they are cooling the hive.
  18. I've been studying hiveware dimensions with a view to building a few nuc boxes for next spring. All my frames, brood and honey, are Hoffman frames. I've just noticed that Manley frames are 10mm deeper. Is this difference intended to fill the beespace between honey supers? If so wouldn't the bees propolise all the frames together? Cleaning burr comb from top/bottom bars is a nuisance (my beespace can't be quite correct) but I imagine breaking 8-9 bottom bars worth of propolis would be worse.
  19. So as a newbie, I have now got over the reluctance to squish a queen and replace her. How often should I replace queens? Pop a new one in each spring, or make new queens in feb/march, after the main flow has finished so the hive has a new queen going into autumn. Or buy one then when they are easier to get hold of, which is again late summer? Requeening in autumn/late summer seems to be the easiest option to me and should still give a relatively young queen to get going in spring. I banked a couple of queens in nucs over winter, which was useful when a mate needed one. I got myself in trouble with one hive, as I left the queen in far too long. She was my best producing hive by far. I got 2 winters out of her and they decided to supercede in August, before there many drones around, or even warm enough temperatures. A month before I had planned to split the hive. Though luckily I had a spare sitting a nuc which went in okay, but I am kicking myself for not making new queens out her when I had the chance.
  20. Hi. I’m looking for some advice about how long to wait before moving a swarm from a nuc/trap into a more permanent hive. Their current box contains 7 frames, most with wax foundation starter strips. The swarm moved into the box about a week ago and as far as I can tell, they seem pretty happy. I don’t want to disturb them too early in case they abscond. I’ve read that they’re easier to transfer when they have drawn out the frames. How long do you think that would take? I’ve also read it’s best to wait until they start raising brood so they are more ‘anchored’ to the location? Again, I’m unsure how quickly a swarm queen will start laying. I’m also wondering if I should have them AFB inspected and treat them for varroa before moving them into the new hive. Apparently you can get a good knockdown on the varroa if they’re treated ASAP before they start raising brood (which may already be underway?)? I have some Bayvarol strips so I’m wondering if I need to get those into the nuc. I’m not sure how the strips go if the bees haven’t drawn a lot of comb for the strips to hang between though. Any advice about the timing of all of these things would be very helpful and appreciated. Thanks heaps!
  21. Hi everyone, This is my first post. Am about to take an introductory bee keeping course starting next week and looking forward to it. I'm thinking about best location on my property for a couple of beehives, and understand that they should be north facing and in the sun as early as possible. The concern is that we are on a street corner and all the good north facing locations are near the street. We are fenced off so I can put the hives behind the fence line, but not sure how close to the street they should be. Also not sure if the bees will get bothered by car noise? We often get petrolheads spinning their wheels and the occasional motorbike blasting by... What do people suggest? Thanks!
  22. I have a second hive that Today started to swarm. There were a large number of bees flying around outside hive and then big number clumped in front of hive and at entrance. they then calmed down and started going back into the hive. I decided to have a look inside and saw 5 frames of drawn Comb with 2 that had either nectar or capped honey. 3 frames had a mixture of nectar or capped brood. (I made this hive from a split a week ago) there was a capped queen cell on one brood frame but no eggs that I could see and I couldn’t see a queen. Is it possible I have a virgin queen already in the hive? is it best to leave hive for 10 days and then see if any eggs? I don’t understand why the looked like they were swarming but then went back into hive. any help much appreciated as I am pretty new to this.
  23. New to the world of beekeeping, and to this forum, so please be gentle :) About 3 weeks ago a swarm of bees landed in a tree at home. Always wanting to keep bees but never getting to the point, I saw this as providence and the catalyst to act. After some quick googling I mustered the courage to shake the swarm into a cardboard box, where they stayed overnight. First thing next morning saw me down at the local farm store buying a ready to go hive, 9 frames and a feeder. Transfer to the hive from the cardboard box was harrowing (there were a lot of bees!), but successful. Initially the queen fell outside the hive, so half the swarm spent the first 24 hours underneath the hive before I figured out why there were so many bees outside, but I got them all inside eventually. I've registered with AsureQuality, and intend to do everything right and by the book, but I haven't done any mite checking or such yet. I have only cracked the lid on the hive twice since capture to fill the feeder with sugar syrup, but without a suit and smoker yet, I haven't checked the hive proper. There is a lot of bee activity coming and going, with lots of pollen coming in, so I'm hoping all is going well and can't wait to have a good look, but I have noticed there appears to be a "lot" of dead bees in front of the hive each day. I know it's daily as I moved the hive a little to a clean spot of lawn to give me an idea. I have attached a couple of photos to show where they are in relation to the entrance, and another showing the number of bees. The tongues are sticking out on most of the dead, but they don't look abnormal. Am I seeing evidence of pesticide poisoning, normal attrition, or a bit of both? It's not nice having the noobie jitters, and I'm probably seeing issues where there aren't any, so any input greatly appreciated.
  24. I have just put swarm into bee box and noticed this bee on the front. Much darker colour than the other bees? Is it a worker or new queen?
  25. Say I transferred a frame of brood to a weaker hive that had a queen cell a couple of days along in the process, would the recipient hive finish the off, if they were queenless? Or would they look for young larvae from their old queen? Just thinking that if I had a hive I was going to requeen, I could speed up the process a little. Not that I am going to do it, but just a thought I had.
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