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Found 1877 results

  1. Is is too late in the year to do a walkaway split in west Auckland?
  2. 4 weeks ago, I went into one of my best producing hives, with an older queen, with the intention of grafting from it. The queen was gone, and there were a couple of queen cells, that looked to be a day or two away from being capped. I had a look in yesterday and couldn't see any larvae or eggs, but found 2 queen cells. There was a reasonable amount of capped brood, in an arc around empty broodcells. My suspicion is that a queen emerged, was laying around existing brood, but they have tried to supercede her quite quickly. Owing to the timeframe I would suspect that a queenright hive wouldn't be building new queen cells, even if it was on a brood break. My plan is to go in, and remove the cells, then merge it with a queen right nuc. What your thoughts?
  3. An interesting puzzle to help you get your mind off the craziness going on around the world: I checked a friend's hobby hives today. She found a queenless hive last week and successfully merged it with a queen-right nuc. Today I went through the other 3 hives at her house and found two more apparently queenless. No eggs and almost no brood left, although what was there looked healthy, no sign of disease. I couldn't see any sign of the queens, but they might have been playing hide and seek. The hives were all strong, the two that seemed queenless were very heavily loaded with drones which tends to suggest that they are indeed queenless. She has 3 other hives in different locations, all doing well. We put mite treatment in today, so I have ruled out strips as being part of the problem. Two of the queens that appear to have failed come from a reliable local breeder, the other from a split she did herself. I realise that perhaps the queens are on a break so have suggested she wait another week before acting. If there is no sign of eggs in a week I am thinking that it would be best to re-queen them by merging them with a couple of my spare nucs so they have some winter bees in the hive. I would appreciate your thoughts. I am not sure how to explain the (potential) loss of so many queens in one location. I am helping her because her first two hives didn't make it their first winter at this location. I haven't seen such a high queen mortality rate before in what appear to be otherwise healthy hives. It is quite a cold site in Dunedin and she has ventilated hives floors that are still open. I have told her to close them up. While that might cause a weak hive I would have thought that it seems unlikely to explain so many missing queens?
  4. Hi Beeks, I have seen some robbing screens that are better suited for traditional wooden bases. I also have Hive Doctors bases however (Original x1 and Smart x 2) which have a lowered base for the entrance, rather than flush flat wooden. I have not had any robbing in mine, however my friend's apiary 30 meters away has had one of his weaker hive robbed out just a week ago. What robbing solutions do people suggest for Hive Doctor bases? I live 5 minutes away and it's not practical to check daily for any odd behaviours. So just seeking proactive strategies for my 3 hives. Appreciate your thoughts.
  5. We have two hives, both "new" last November .. Currently both with 3 x 3/4 boxes - 2 brood & 1 honey box separated by a queen excluder. A check yesterday shows that Hive 1 [H1] has very little if any brood, and no larvae, in the brood boxes although lots of honey & pollen | nectar .. Hive 2 [H2] has 7 frames of brood [with larvae] in the bottom box - I did not get to check the 2nd brood box and will need to wait for the weather to turn now .. Comments please .. do I transfer brood or find a new queen ?
  6. Kia ora e hoa ma (hey friends) Wondering if you could help me. My bees have steadily been growing in numbers. I checked them again today and they are full to the brim. They had even build some cone in the underside of the feeder tray. So my questions are... - What are my next steps? - Do I chuck a second brood box on top? - If so, how do I do that? Do I take the frames from the outside and chuck them in the middle of the new box? I also spotted some interesting cells. Are the practise queen cells? See photo's below. Thanks for your help. Dave
  7. I'm not a bee keeper, however I want to do my bit in helping the bees thrive. I have a garden and have planted wild flowers and herbs which attract them. I want to know what I can do to help them out more. Also, I have noticed that the bees in my garden are half normal and half different? I took a photo and hopefully someone would be able to tell me what these bees are. They don't look like your standard bee. At least from a layman's point of view.
  8. Hey guys, recently I extracted couple boxes of honey and with many thxs from members here helping me with some tips! anyway the empty frames were leave inside the garages and Some1 leave the back door open! (Wife) Lol... I came back from work and the wife was scream for help lol..I opened the garage door and heaps! I mean heaps of bees roaring at the honey boxes! Slipped on the protected gear and move the boxes out the back yard! Now the next morning there were more bees coming for the honey! so I decided to Try to steal these bee! I place on the plastics base with close entry and used the top board with the 4 corners exit entry and turn it upside down so the bee can entry the hive Can’t exit back out! I mean it was a massive bee gathering, I have trapped bee swarm before but this time iam not too sure if it’s a swamp cause I don’t think there any queen with it! But it was a big gathering.. I know it abit too late this time of the season for getting fresh brood..would introducing a new queen worth trying? or should I merge these bee with my old lot?
  9. Last evening sat outside the "small hive" watching the comings and goings, I noticed a worker emerge, walk down the base to ground level and strike out on foot straight away from the hive. She seemed to pause three or four times then about a metre out, fell over and became inert. A minute or so later another worker repeated the performance almost exactly. I went over and picked them up looking for signs of wing damage, chewing, stings given or received. Nothing. Over a half-hour around ten bees did this as dusk fell. I noticed that the pauses looked like swift cleaning episodes, hind legs wiping down the sides of the abdomen, and not all of them did it. Some appeared hunched, some didn't. I came inside. This morning I fixed the roof of that hive, and sat and watched. There were no more bees on the ground out front than last night and in total there were about twenty of varying age among the litter. Then a solitary worker flew out and landed maybe twenty centimetres in front, and then walked the five metres into the bush stopping to groom a couple of times and not looking back. Bizarre. Supporting evidence: Last weekend a frame of brood and a frame of stores were put into a second brood box topped up with drawn comb and the box added to the hive since it was coming back from a slow build-up in shade this season. The nurses shaken back into the donor hive. An oxalic Varroa strip which was probably contributing to patchy laying was removed at that time. To relocate out of the site shade, the hive had been on holiday for a fortnight to the other side of the Hutt Valley and had fresh brood and more bees on its return a fortnight ago. The new site has good sun, little wind, is in ancient gorse and native regrowth, and has Red Wasps observed wandering by on occasion. Could they be attacking the hive? The hive is otherwise happy and healthy, docile enough to be looked into without gear but with caution, and foraging well. In a week they have begun capping the top third of one side of two of the drawn three-quarter frames. But we'd really like to know if you Wise Ones can explain the weird behavior and tell us what it means. Thanks.
  10. Hello every1, seeking for advices how to extract thick honey.. I managed to collected 2 boxes of honey this season, most frames were capped and some were uncapped.. as we spinned off the honey, the uncapped honey in frames did not come off, so I decided to squeeze the juice out of it 😸 see it very thick,.. Now I’ve mixed my thick squeeze honey together with the loose honey and let it filtered..3/4 of the honey filter through but the rest just sit still in the drainer and too thick to drips through..!! Could some body please send me advice how to complete my thick filter honey?? best regards, jack
  11. So its be dry here in the Central North Island and only about 8mm of rain in the last month. My hives have decent stores and are queen right when I last checked 10 days ago. Usually very calm bees that I can sit next to hives and just watch. Went to check hives yesterday before suiting up and got stung as a few guard bees went for me when I was a few meters away. They wouldn't give up so left them alone. Am I right in my assumption that due to the drought conditions there is no real honey flow on at the moment and if I open up the hives there is a real risk of robbing starting?
  12. Hi. Wanted to say hi as a new member and also ask a couple of questions. 1. Hi. Im a newbie keeper...got my hive late autumn and so am experiencing the joys of new parenthood. The hive is a full depth wooden longstroth but i also have a flow hive assembled to try a second colony with at some stage. Im based in chch, bishopdale, and have the hive in our rented back yard. Within a couple of weeks of getting the nuc it had bees outside the hive with chewed wing syndrome. Possibly the first round of brood hatching. Treated with baverol and no recurrence. I fed through winter with raw sugar and put on a plastic feeder tray as got a lot of sugar exiting the hive when feeding on the bottom board. The last two weeks have seen a big increase in activity with a lot of drones flying in and out so thats healthy. A lot of bearding this week and oddly a lot tonight just before 8pm...well after sun is off the hive. Am about to have first decca inspection so will see how well im doing. The activity seen makes me think a second box will be needed shortly. Ill no for certain when the inspection happens this week. 2. Does any one know bee keepers around chch who might like an occaisional day of free and novice help? Im pretty strong and have my own suit etc. I could use the experience and am happy to trade labour for learning for a few days. Has anyone used a flow hive in chch. Im told they might not be warm enough ... but they were tested in canada..and its cold there. 3. Is there anyone in chch who would like to put a hive in a school. The local intermediate is thinking about it. Alternatively im happy to provide a flow hive if some one has bees for the s hool to get them going. Any way. Hi.
  13. I’m splitting 3 hives in to 6 today and I was planning on having split the hives yesterday. Is it still okay to split and introduce caged queens all in the same day?
  14. Hi Guys, I'm still very new to beekeeping =) I had my afb check done in Nov and it was all clear. I've just received an AFB notification for within 2kms of my beehives (2). Is there anything I can do for my bees? I'm really quite worried now! 2km is very close
  15. O.K ...A bit stung from last post.😮 So gingerly, I wonder? What would you REAL Beekers have done? Caught a small swarm today.😁 Easiest ever. Third swarm to come to same spot on land. This time just meters away from a spare box. 😁 saw the swarm fly a few days ago. Dropped them into box and gave them 2 special freshly spun wets on the outside of 10 frame box. The other wets from last weeks spin, went back onto the hive they came from. BUT.. The plastic box that housed the wets this week since spinning is dripping with honey. By the time I sorted out my business, the bees were supping up the honey on the bottom of the plastic box. I left it for them. Good? Bad?
  16. Hi, I have a couple of hives, where I'm hoping to extract for my first time. I'll have about approx 12 frames to extract from and am wondering what is the best/easiest/most cost effective way to do this? I see there are extractors for $200 on Trademe which are obviously low-end...and I'm assuming I'd then need a strainer as well? Can I please have some advice on how best to harvest our honey so I can store in a large tub (with tap)? Is it possible to get manually extract by breaking up the comb in just a strainer?
  17. Prior to going abroad for 2 months (November /December) my top bar had a very high mite count that i had been unable to reduce with AOV. So I used Apistan (for the first time) for those 8 weeks. In hindsight this period would have been early honeyflow. What does this mean as far as honey is concerned?? The hive has good stores and I’d planned to leave any honey for the bees and possibly harvest surplus next spring.
  18. Hi does anyone here know of anyone with a extraction plant for this coming honey season, around 150 box to extract.
  19. Spring clean up wasn't good. 20190825_150321.mp4 20190825_150321.mp4 20190825_150321.mp4 20190825_150321.mp4 Help please.
  20. Applied Apistan early Spring. All 3 hives look good now and are building up nicely. When cleaning up though, one hive board was covered with varroa mites. Am I to assume these are dead from treatment? I check weekly and will keep a keen eye on them. But if varroa is still present what do I do seeing as the honey flow has started. They were treated with thymol wafers in Autumn. One wafer must have dropped into bottom of box.
  21. I am about to pic up a full depth nuc. Usually I run 2 x 3/4 brood boxes and 3/4 honey supers for ease of lifting. (nearly 60!😮) Anyway, I have 2 full depth boxes and 20 full depth frames that are not in use. So have been studying single brood box management. The maths says there is enough room for Q to lay. And from what I gather, attention to feeding is a must. BUT... Question? I heard somewhere that I need a full depth honey box on top of single brood box to allow for expansion if needed? They said I can put fully capped brood above QE and insert new frames for laying under.( in middle of brood nest) Other Utube stuff doesn't meantion this. And some have half size honey super on for feeding. Thoughts please?
  22. I'd really appreciate advice from learned beekeepers please... I have three questions (which I'll explain): 1) As the 2 Full Deep boxes are almost full, should I be looking to split the hive? 2) If so, Can I use 2 queen excluders to locate the queen?. 2) Should I extract or leave a specific frame? Any other thoughts much appreciated... Background: This is my third bee keeping season, I started with a weak nuc April 17, and through walk away splits, I now have 3 strong hives one with two brood boxes, the other two are singles. The first picture shows my strongest hive I have (ever had): 2 Full deep brood boxes and 2 x 3/4 supers. The top super is almost full and just needs some capping so I intend to remove and extract in the next week, and the under super is largely empty. It's the strongest hive that I've ever had, and I'm finding the hive management a bit of a challenge as the two full deeps are almost full of brood (8 frames), loads of pollen (6 frames), and the rest honey as full frames or bulging around brood. I'm nervous about the hive swarming, as there is very little space left. There are no swarm cells. with the high volume of bees, especially angry ones, I have been unable to locate the queen in the last 3 inspections. Q1) Should I be worried about swarming due to lack of space? (or is it too late in the season?), and therefore consider splitting? Q2) If looking to split, to locate the queen, can I use two queen excluders, one above and below the top brood box?, and then check for eggs in Brood box 1, 2, to know where the queen is? or is there a better method?. Q3) If I wanted to, can I extract this frame? / what is the impact of pollen in extracted frames? This frame is from the top brood box. There is honey around the outside, but I'm most interested in what was previously the brood area. I hear that bees don't cap pollen, but hear that bees can put nectar on top of pollen in cells. My inclination is to leave the frame for the bees over winter. If I wanted to extract the frame, could I?. I guess I'm asking, what is the impact of pollen in honey?. Any comments, much appreciated (still on my learning journey ;)) As an aside, and for a laugh, in my last inspection, I gloved up (leather instead of nitrile milking gloves) as I knew there was a bit of honey for the bees to protect. The hive was certainly on alert when I was removing frames to check for swarm cells, and I was feeling invincible, until.... I regretted my over confidence in wearing my ankle length socks when I was stung on my ankle below my suit and inside my long gumboots. two days later my ankle is still swollen. (it took me 2 minutes until I would find a bees free environment to remove the sting).
  23. I've been thinking about the best way for swarm prevention this season. The last 2 season's I've had a hive each swarm. Conveniently I was home when it happened and I caught them with out much incident. I don't really want to repeat this again this year. The last 2 years on the hives that didn't swarm I did walk away splits, and or spits into nuc boxes. I don't have the gear to do proper walk away splits, and I don't really want to get more lids/bases for it either. I now have 4 hives, 3 double FD brood and one Single FD brood. I've done some reading into virtical splits and I get the general gist, but I haven't quite figured out if once you do it you leave both hives as single FD's or slowly turn them into 2x FD and also what to do about Honey supers. Would it go Brood, super, split board, brood, then super? Does the split board need mesh in it so both hives can smell each other? At this stage I think there are only 2 hives that are strong enough and would want to swarm. The idea behind this is then to double queen after swarm season. Last year I tried 2 double queens and merged as per the NZ beekeeping book. Both hives went back to one queen each within a couple of weeks. Not that I was too bothered. Has anyone done this or have any ideas on the best way to do it. Cheers
  24. Hi there, I have x4 hives, only 2 of them have done well while Manuka in my area was flowering. So I have some supers of Mono floral Manuka. My question is, should I take them frames out and get them extracted now (local extraction plant) or just keep a note of which supers contain that honey and get it harvested separate to my other at the end of the season? Reason being I'm unsure with the kanuka and Pohutukawa flowering now wether the bees will start to mix it all together on these fames? Thanks for the advice.
  25. Hi, I'm a new beekeeper (1 year or so). My hives (All FD Frames) have gone into winter with 1 'Store' super and 1 Brood box, and come out of winter into spring where I treated the brood only for Varroa. The Varroa treatment says you shoukd not take honey from a hive which has had the treatment in - which is fine. The treatment has long been removed now. However, now that my hives are building up, I still have this winter store super on - What should I do with it? It's ~95% full, and I'd like to put new Honey Supers on as the hive is essentially full. Will the previous Varroa treatment cause any issues? Should I remove it, keep it in storage until next Winter? Keep it on? Something else? Currently the Hive is doing well in terms of growth, and honey supply in the brood box - this question is more about my own personal honey collection. Thanks!
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