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John V

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John V last won the day on July 17 2012

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  1. My Telford certificate arrived in the mail today!!! Took a bit of work, and thanks to Rashika and Fiona Black for there help and to others who also gave me guidance. I know I haven't been on here much, at least logged in, but work hours plus travel time didn't leave much spare. I have been able to sneak some non log-in time to look up some things. Now, I might be able to do some splits shortly to build up numbers.
  2. First some background. My original hive is what I call Hive 1. It was a strong, gentle hive . When the people I bought it of came out to work me through a split, we found it still boiling with bees but no queen. I covered this in some earlier posts at the time. So we did a double queenless split. Both hives came right and started producing, with hive 1 having the advantage of original site and larger number of bees. At the start of December when I checked, and took off my first honey from it, hive 1 had most of the brood box full (about 7 frames), so I added another brood box under the QE
  3. Thanks for all your input people. I have given up on the blower system for me, based o this discussion, and the links back to earlier topics. I went to Ecroyds and they said that the one with the holes in the corner were best so I got them. Then found you all seem to like the round ones. Too late for this lot. So yesterday I followed Tony's system, which is real good and logical. Started on hive 2 then onto hive 1 (more on that later). Pulled hives right down and did a disease check and clean, put an empty super on the QE, then escape board and then the honey boxes. This morning di
  4. That bit could be a problem. The hives are in our front and back yards, and a workshop/garage is over the road. Plus the dogs like to try and catch the bees too. If you use an escape board, can you take off all your supers (to go back on after extraction which is done as soon as the boxes are removed)? That would force all the bees into the brood boxes (all that will be left till boxes come back). I am worried about bees feeling overcrowded, although it will only be for a few hours; really longer because of the time for the escape board to work. Last time I just used smoke and my han
  5. No, I haven't seen or done blowing bees. I've just up to the harvesting assignment from Telfords and they talk about. Plus there has been mention of using one here on the forum. They say to blow the bees down onto the ground in front of the hive, and it's better if there is some space between the frames. But it doesn't say how far away to blow from or give much more detail.
  6. I'm thinking of trying the blower method when I take my next honey off. I'm wondering if a garden blower/vac (on blow of course) would be any good. Has anyone tried one for this, and did it work? I also have a stand dog drier which I can play with, but not so portable:rolleyes:
  7. ChCh club have a field day this week. They may know when their next one is.
  8. When I did my course they said ChCh hobby club usually runs one in November and March. there were 13 on mine which was good for us as students, but they were a bit disappointed as they had up to 3 or 4 times that previously.
  9. Forgot to put in when it arrived. My DECA arrived a couple of weeks ago, so I'm stoked.
  10. Good one LuvBees. Though at Tadmor, it was not unusual to have minus 12 degrees air temperature during winter. Water would thaw out about lunchtime and refreeze by 5pm. The high temperatures were a prediction by Jim Salinger. I hear today he's knocked them back, but predicting warm again next week.
  11. My wife saw it on the computer this morning. When I dragged myself over there she was looking at canterbury Plains on Metservice, but I've looked later and can't see those sort of figures now. Whatever it shows, we're normally well above it anyway. Thanks DJC for those thoughts. Will just monitor. Can't say they aren't getting practice at keeping things right with the up and down temps we've had - 37.5 one day and 16 the next.
  12. Our weather is different from the forecasts for in town. As a rule we have been getting in the low 30's where the predictions have been for the 20's. Bees have coped well, with just a bit of crowding outside on one hive. However, the forecast for the next couple of days is mid 30's possibly reaching 40. I don't have mesh bases, and it's too late today to get some and change over to them. Other than putting ventilation gap at the top of the supers, is there anything else I can do to ease the heat stress for them? Honey is due to come off on the weekend. Could I add another box, even e
  13. Got stung 6 times. Knew the girls needed another honey box on, and the split was probably in need of a second brood box too. So first up the split - checked the brood box and it was well full, so put a second on, and the honey box was almost full, but not all capped. So second box on and go back to the full one on 3 or so weeks. Original hive, I checked and the first honey box chocka. Checked the brood boxes, and the top one was full of honey, so they obviously needed that extra box last week. And the bottom box was needing space. So put the brood box of honey above the QE and put a new
  14. Tried the heating, but no luck. Have put those frames aside for winter feeding. Thanks for the ideas.
  15. I went to do some extracting from one of my hives this morning and encountered an issue. The honey, and frames have been full for quite some time, and after uncapping (with a scratcher) a lot of the honey has cristallised and is a mass of solid cell blocks. Some was still fluid enough to come out. How to I get this honey soft so that it will extract? I don't have an uncapping knife which may have helped because of its heat, so do I heat the frames or what?
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