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Everything posted by M4tt

  1. That’s still far too dear . I can’t fathom how that is going to encourage honesty with the cost of registering as a beekeeper as well via afb.org.nz , which sounds like doubling up to me , for a hobbiest with a couple of hives
  2. Well that’s gonna be useful for nothing isn’t it . I wonder what the heck is going on . It could be the good imported stuff 🙄
  3. M4tt


    Too true I have four apiaries , hive numbers ranging from 2 to 9 at the moment . They are contained with in a 3 km radius and you would think the bees have access to the same forage . Well, the most certainly don’t . Year in year out , there are vast differences in performance, which also affects mite numbers affecting them and their ability to withstand mites long and short term . The Main difference is forage
  4. M4tt


    This is a really interesting conversation. Thankfully my livelihood doesn’t depend on honey from bees , and even if it did, the Waikato is the wrong part of the country to get honey. It is the overstocked dump site for wintering phenomenal numbers of hives , which used to disappear to the BOP for kiwi pollination , then get brought back just as the clover gets going. It seems more hives are staying put now during pollination , but some are still moving for sure . Bees here just scrape by most of the year as they compete with each other for food and varroa. It’s a cocktail that ensures they will collapse in winter if some serious thought isn’t put into keeping them alive . We don’t get late dew flows, or even early willow flow. It’s tough and the commercial guys appear to endure ever increasing losses . I believe the flat ground, easy access and close proximity to base for feeding is the attraction , because it isn’t the honey production for sure. Varroa minimisation is just one of the challenges here, and I think it’s probably the same everywhere. It’s hard to imagine why synthetics work well for some and not for others . It’s something I’m still trying to get a handle on because life would have one less problem if varroa control was easy.
  5. In the years that I make honey , my average is around 22 kg per hive , and they have been fed at least that amount of sugar in syrup per hive to get them through spring and to build up in time for the flow , just so I can pinch the honey off them again and replace with syrup. I haven’t fed syrup since the honey price collapsed and as a result the bees have used 100% of their honey to survive a 12 month period . Your tutors claim of 80 kg per hive is clearly not from Waikato pasture
  6. When given the choice, as mine always are with entrances in the queen excluder above box two or three, the vast majority enter and exit through the bottom . I’ve tried mid entrances and the bees hated them ( from what I could tell). The bottom entrance was one drone size space and the whole lot still insisted on trying to use it for the main entrance . I cleaned out the shed last weekend and threw them in the bin .
  7. You’ve done what you can for now . With that info it would have certainly swarmed again . Those frames with excess drone cells , progressively lift them up out of the brood nest and the bees will fill them with honey after the drones emerge .
  8. Welcome along Jess ! Thank you for your intro and enthusiasm 😊. There are beekeepers on here with good honey and may well welcome your approach . Unfortunately I’m just a hobbiest, so I’m no good to you , but I look forward to your input 😊
  9. Dave , it’s very hard to tell . As @Bee Good said, maybe not . You’re probably after some advice . I can’t tell you if there is a virgin in there or not , but at a guess , possibly not . Id go back in and very CAREFULLY remove the queen cells except for what you deem to be the best one , which will become your future queen . By doing this , you remove the risk and potential of there being 3 more afterswarms with virgins . If there is a virgin in there , they will potentially swarm only once more with the one remaining cell , and if there isn’t , they won’t swarm . The problem with leaving all three cells , is that if they all emerge at the same time, they will swarm for sure Well done going in for a look and reporting what you saw 👍
  10. Yes . Your old queen will be the one that swarmed . Those cells left behind will potentially swarm . There may or may not be a virgin queen in the hive now .
  11. Back in 2016 when @TammyWwaa doing her thesis , our test hive results was as below
  12. Ok so two things have come to light . 1. WET staples are BAD DRY staples are GOOD. CHRYSTALLISED appear ok at this stage, so long as they are dry . 2. @ChrisM, I believe your mixing is bang on . Measure accurately exactly the correct ingredients for each Bach . That could also lead to a trace back if records were kept and a Bach failed , or worked better .
  13. Always firmly drag the strips across the rim of the bucket to remove excess ingredient. 70% GL in a Staple that is not properly drained is a lot of water attracting potential. That Staple should weighed no more than 30g. Note that a Staple with 30% OA/70% GL is now considered an inappropriate, low strength by both @Philbee and others (copied from above link )
  14. Yikes . Looks like we’ve all learned something out of all of this .
  15. Yup . Scrape of all the excess moisture on the side of a box between your gloved hand . The crystallised staples don’t appear to be a problem but the wet ones certainly are . They need to be dry
  16. Randy Oliver has problems with glycerine with wet shop towels Did you scrape the staples dry before placement ?
  17. Spot on 😉👍 Hide the compost bin from them
  18. So how is it getting in the food . Are the bees ingesting it (doubtful ) or are they walking it into the cells , and why is it only killing some larvae and not all . Does one bee feed one larvae per load , or do they move from cell to cell and feed several
  19. Yep , there will be a reason . I’m right out of ideas at the moment . Something is clearly messing with your brood pattern , but I just don’t know what mechanism or how
  20. Thank you . That means it is related somehow to OA, or glycerine , given you have bayvatol treated hives within the same apiaries which are good . ( which is what you said ). My hives routinely have shotgun pattern during the dearth after blueberry flowering , regardless of treatment , of which I’ve used most types available . So your shotgun pattern and mine are caused by something different . Is there a difference in mite loading in hives between Staple treated and Bayvarol treated ?
  21. Have you got any shotgun brood amongst frames with good stores on the brood frames ?
  22. Hey , just to add . Right at the moment , even my good hives that have very good brood in the second box ( all 3/4 gear ) can have rubbish brood fairly identical to yours in the bottom box , again with no stores near the brood and the shotgun pattern . They really don’t like moving sideways in periods of low to no flow , but are fine with going up . Im just pointing this out because it is a simple management difference which might be affecting something . If there was good brood in the second box, amongst the good food , I’m fairly certain there would be more bees in that hive As far as I’m aware the shotgun pattern is bees eating eggs for protein
  23. Of course , none of that matters . If the population was large , then fell away , I can’t tell you why . I placed staples like that last year and the worst that happened was they killed brood that they blocked from emerging underneath , some mined the wax underneath , which they rebuilt after the removal of staples, and some queens wouldn’t lay underneath Agree with the top bit I suspect the reason for the bottom bit is ‘trial data that’s not yet ready for release ‘. There won’t be any malice intended on Phil’s part , more like misinterpreting the tone in which he posted .
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