Jump to content

M4tt

Members
  • Content Count

    5780
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    91

Everything posted by M4tt

  1. Oh . Really ? Oops 🤣 It’s a fungus . I never knew that
  2. Back in business 😉. Seems a little late , like by about 6 weeks ?
  3. @Alastair, interesting results . Thanks for testing your bees and sharing the results . They kind of tell me that you have high virus loading both from the nasties that cause Cororapa, plus Lotmaria Passim thrown in for fun , just in case the other two didn’t hit them properly . What the results don’t tell us is what actually is normal in your area and how much virus, and what combination , the bees can tolerate before it affects them . It also doesn’t tell us if the OA made them worse , better or did nothing . All answers that can be worked in now you have a base line
  4. That could be helpful to us It’s certainly far from the truth here
  5. I looked into the same process, although I have no intention of extracting my own honey for sale. I’d more likely sell mine to someone else who has a stall. Anyway , MPI were very helpful and have a bit of a check list to go through to direct you in the right direction , which was to local council . It appears local councils differ in their rules between provinces . What you need to comply with is food safety laws , which in normal persons speak, is extraction, testing and labelling , for selling within your ‘council ‘ area. You also need to demonstrate you can store it safely .
  6. Correct . I do not know which queen they came from
  7. Earlier , I made some new Queens via queenless splits into nucs from Quiet productive hives . Once they queens were laying , I newspaper merged them onto some poor performing hives with a QE, old queen in the bottom , new queen on top . This was about 5 weeks ago . Ive been getting to these hives and knocking of the poor queen below and pulling the QE out . It would appear the removal of the second queen is enough to reduce hive Queen pheromone enough to trigger the production of emergency queen cells , while the good queen continues laying solidly in both boxes . Initially I thought they were swarm cells , but the result is predictable enough now to realise they are not . I just remove them and the hive carries on .
  8. Yep so do I . I capture them and hold them with my left hand . I am right handed and it’s more important that the aim is ‘spot on ‘ with my more reliable hand . When ever I go through a hobbiests hive , I catch and mark the queen as a favour to them , and to show them how easy it is . Ive never been stung by bees on the comb as I dive in and pluck the queen off with bare fingers . Aggro hives I work with nitrile gloves and they are fine for queen handling as well .
  9. I mark the new queens after their brood is capped and write on the mat, with the same Posca pen , that I have done so . This way I know the age of the queen and when she is superceded and/or the temperament of her offspring and whether she’s a breeder or not
  10. Do you use green and red ? A mark used to do a good year and a half . I will keep a look out because I have no staples in now till Feb , so the paint should last better
  11. Aha. That answers that question . Most times I see a queen, it has the remnants of Posca pen on it in a faint circle . My queens are well used to being caught and remarked regularly these days . It hadn’t occurred to me it was the acid doing it
  12. As a point of interest , I marked a reasonable amount of new queens in July that had resulted from winter supercedure and therefore winter matings , which I’ve never had before . Certainly I’ve had winter supercedures, but they’ve never mated and ended up drone layers . These hives have built up enough to truly test their temperament and they are not very nice . They score a consistent 6 to 8/10 and are rather unpleasant to work . While they were well mated and the mating pattern is acceptable , their temperament is not . I don’t really like working bees that continuously and aggressively kamikaze bomb and sting my bee suit . Some go through . I guess the winter drones must have come from some fairly snarly hives . I will have to split up some nice hives and breed some replacement queens .
  13. I’m giving some thought to this suggestion of flow / no flow and it’s effect on hive health with OA staples in . At this stage of my learnings , I don’t think I’d add too much weight to flow . I believe a hive will be healthier and therefore moving forward , if it’s on a flow . Most of the year , my hives are living on stores, or just getting by. Most of the autumn winter spring period, while staples are in , there is a very light flow of something , but not enough to store or build up on . My hives appear to consume far more than the national average of honey during the time staples are in and I can’t honestly say the hives are worse off for having them in . I’m one of those who credits staples with great success , and live in an exceptionally poor flow area .
  14. Yep . A good strong hive will rob a weaker varroa infested hive and bring the baddies home . Also, here in autumn , it’s not uncommon to see multiple bees trying to work the same dandelion , and some of the bees have visible riders on their backs . I’m guessing it’s not difficult for varroa to hitch onto another bee in the field . Bees get pretty frantic and busy when the summer flow stops and partake in risky behaviour , just to fill up. Really , one bee per flower would be plenty Good thinking . I just pondered the same thing . Some field trials would confirm this
  15. I don’t know what to make of this post . Is it an ad ?
  16. M4tt

    Bayvarol

    Once upon a time , I read that OA in syrup was a good cure for Nosema. At the time , I tried it on my observation hive as they were low on population and looked like they needed a boost . They were well used to being fed syrup little and often via an upturned jam jar . They literally wolfed down the first third of the jar, and wouldn’t touch it after that . Further to that , they wouldn’t touch fresh syrup either . They learn for sure . I can’t remember what the brood did though
  17. Sheesh guys . This is great entertainment for me , but possibly not for the general public . There are eyes everywhere
  18. 😂😂😂 What is this ‘hive years ‘ and how many do I have ?
  19. Thankyou for your reply .Good to have you along . I’ve always found the WDC very good to deal with with the occasional questions I ask of them . For what it’s worth , I’m pleased you are reviewing your beehive policy , particularly in light that it’s not actually enforced . It is important to know where beehives are and moving forward , perhaps some communication with The Management Agency would be a good idea . That way, any bee complaints made to the WDC could be forwarded to The Management Agency to be dealt with by them . Thos would save on double handling , double fees, and the right department would be hearing about it . Unregistered hives are more of a problem than having to apply for a consent to keep bees That’s how I see it anyway .
  20. Squash queen . Put new queen in cage, entrance and candy end facing up , and in the centre of the brood , with the side vents exposed so the bees can access the queen pheromone . Inspect after three days to make sure she’s released .
  21. Oh heck no , not meant like that at all . Sorry about that To clarify , beekeeper registration is valid and should be paid . The council fee is outrageous Polar opposites For all you forum readers , this is the important one https://afb.org.nz/new-to-beekeeping-apiary-registration-form/
  22. That’s still far too dear . I can’t fathom how that is going to encourage honesty with the cost of registering as a beekeeper as well via afb.org.nz , which sounds like doubling up to me , for a hobbiest with a couple of hives
  23. Well that’s gonna be useful for nothing isn’t it . I wonder what the heck is going on . It could be the good imported stuff 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...