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Martin Garside

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Martin Garside last won the day on March 28 2013

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About Martin Garside

  • Rank
    Pupa

Converted

  • Swarm Collection Area
    Greater Auckland Area
  • Business name
    Auckland beekeepers Club
  • DECA Holder
    Yes
  • Beekeeping Experience
    Hobby Beekeeper
  • Business phone
    02108898210
  • Business email
    a.b.c.swarm.control@gmail.com

Location

  • Location
    Auckland

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  1. Hi Chris, He just lives out of town on a farm so just hole in the ground and a spade.Not sure if he accepts non wood, and there is no template to follow. When I was on the committee of ABC I approached to local fire department who had a fire pit for their own training, but they were not interested on praciting on burning hives! I believe that the local fire departments should be more helpfull as they have the facilities to prevent any accidents. Try local industrial incinerator company, they may offer to do it if you need it in the future!
  2. If you are a member of the Auckland Beekeepers Club we have an arrangement with one of our members that will take your hive and burn it for a small fee, but only for members!
  3. You dont use B401 on the bees. Read my post! Spray it on dried off frames after last harvest when frames put in storage over winter. Bt will be gone after 6 months in storage but the frames will be wax moth free!
  4. https://www.vita-europe.com/beehealth/products/b401/
  5. https://www.bunnings.co.nz/kiwicare-4-x-2-5g-organic-caterpillar-bio-control_p00037637 Only sprayed on frames after last extraction and dry off!
  6. I did some research some years ago on the overseas product called B401 (recently reformulated and given a new name) and Certan both a Bt aizawai. The local caterpillar organic treatment is Bt kurstaki, a slightly different strain, but just as good and it works. I have been using it at the end of the honey season for the past 5 years on dried off frames going into storage in a well venterlated but well meshed area and , after 6 months in storage I have had no infestation of wax moth when getting them out for the new honey season in September. https://www.vita-europe.com/beehealth/products/b401/
  7. If you want to Turbo Charge your smoker and get super charged faster and better lighting of the smoker, try this. Drill a 10mm hole just above the fire grate, make a small door to cover hole , I used the metal from a beer can (note to self, drink beer first), and fix with a self tapping screw. Pack smoker with you favourite material, top with some green grass, and, with a small blow totch, or a big one of you only have a big one, light the material through the 10mm hole. Lighting from the base of the material gives cool smoke and it is easy to relight if it goes out during your inspection. Can even blow through the hole to get it really going!
  8. For some time now I have felt that there should be just one form and combine the COI and the ADR together and get EVERY beekeepers to state that all hives have been checked for AFB by the beekeeper if he has a DECA or a qualified DECA holder if the beekeeper is new and has not had the experience or training to recognise AFB. This would save all the confusion about who should and who does not need to submit which form and give the AFB authorities a clear picture of who is checking hives!
  9. Beekeepers use the product 'Bee Quick" when trying to get bees our of their suppers before harvest. This may assist in keeping bees away!
  10. Auckland Beekeepers Club's number is B 21, but then they have been going for 70 years!
  11. When I made my Warre frames I used a standard Lang frame top bar with a section cut out to reduce it to the required length. I kept the two side bars, but did not have a bottom bar. This made all the frames removable for inspection in all sections. Did not have much cross combing!
  12. The whole concept of a Warre hive is to let the bees draw down naturally as they would in a hollow tree trunk. Each season they continue building down and leave the honey cells above. You nadiar the additional boxes, ie place under the stack, and after a season the very top box will be filled with only honey. Well that is the theory. It does not matter if they do not build straight according to the frames as you can extract a full box of only honey. I gave up on my experiment Warre when they built honey on frames 1 and 2, 7 and 8 and a chimney of brood in the centre down all 3 boxes. I think you need a cold snowy winter and a broodless period, like in France, to stop brood cell building until a spring and then they will continue building down.
  13. The conversion figures I was given were: MG to NPA = (0,3481 x (A1 ^ 0,6028)) or NPA to MG = (A.^(1/0.6028))/(0.3481^(1/0.6028)) other conversions are: DHA 1230-500 = 730/300 = 2.4+NPA9.9 = 12.3 and MGO 83 = UMF 5+ MGO 261 = UMF10+ MGO 600 = UMF 15+ MGO 829 = UMF 20+
  14. There is a commercial kitchen called 'Kumeu Kitchen Hub' that rents out their kitchen on an hourly basis. If you have your own extractor and are prepared to do the labour, it may turn out cheaper. See their Face Book page. Phone 09-412 2544
  15. I have used bee escapes in the past and have a few in my shed, but for the past three years I have used Fishers 'Bee Quick' and a fume board and have found this much better and quicker and it only needs one trip to the apiary. Once you have a system going and the first box is cleared, by the time I have brushed the last of the bees off the frames and put it my station wagon , and the fume board has been on the next hive for 5 minutes, it will be ready for removal. and so on..............Priceless
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