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tudor

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Everything posted by tudor

  1. Beehavn, You seem to know an incredible amount about Rose Beehives without being able to find the web site. You might like to contact Tim Rowe at http://www.rosebeehives.com/contact.html and order a copy of his book. You may find it easier to make a constructive contribution on the topic after reading it. Looking forward to it ...
  2. Thanks, Roger, do you have many hives or is this more for people who have a lot of work to do ?
  3. Hi DJC, I hoped to discuss FD and 3/4 boxes a bit more in the "Rose beehives" thread of yesterday. Could we continue now for me to understand why you are switching to FD brood boxes ? Thanks.
  4. Hi, thanks for your many thoughts and comments. I am interested why you are are introducing FD brood boxes. Is a 3/4 on each box going to be part of the brood box, or will the FD be large enough by itself ? I am early along the road and not absolutely fixed on using only 3/4 boxes, and the mixture worked fine for me thus far. One point made elsewhere is that a brood FD does not weigh nearly as much as an FD full of honey. Also, are nucs available in 3/4 size or only FD ? Thanks.
  5. As a new beekeeper, I decided to stick with 3/4 boxes and started with two hives which our tutor set up with brood and food and queened. Both went queen right, but a month later one went queenless. In the meantime I had bought a strong hive which had become available, with a full depth brood box. Immediately after I inspected it I added a 3/4 drawn box under the QC as it was on the point of swarming, and that seemed to settle it down well, as well as a 40 Km relocation. After a couple of weeks there were a lot of eggs, larvae and capped brood - this meant that eggs and brood were available on a 3/4 frame after a month for use in the queenless hive, a FD frame would be of no use. Now the queenless hive is queenright again. Now, how to change from FD to 3/4 only ? In his Rose Hive book Tim suggests adding rose boxes under older boxes which "float up" over a couple of seasons before being retired. Will this work in our situation ?
  6. Hi Chris, The section on "Registration costs for food control plans and national programmes" states: "24. Do producers classed as medium to low risk have to register? Yes. Producers of food products which are classed as a medium to low risk, such as jams and pickles, honey (not comb), and those selling fruit or vegetables produced by others will be subject to a national programme unless there are limited sales as a fundraising or personal development activity." What is this personal development activity ? Could it be a sales under a certain value such as a couple of thousand dollars ? Thanks.
  7. tudor

    Wax Moth

    Is there anything you can spray on your supers to kill the moths without leaving residues picked up when the frames are used again ?
  8. According to more experienced beekeepers in the South we seem to be having more wax moth, perhaps due to mild winters. Is this being reported widely ? Thanks.
  9. Hi, Has there been a debate about using Queen Excluders, or not using them ? Could you summarise it ? Thanks.
  10. tudor

    Extractor

    Janice I think we did 4 + 4 + 2 in all, and all that we did were heavy, but may have lost count of 4 more .
  11. tudor

    Extractor

    Thanks Janice, I learned a lot especially about how well the escape boards worked, decapping, scratching and extracting. And thanks for the honey which received my wife's approval and has a lovely caramel end-taste (if you know what I mean). Regards.
  12. tudor

    Extractor

    Hi Janice I am a new beekeeper down near Portobello, doing the course back to front i.e. practical then theory, of which I have already learned a lot. Have three hives, one with supers needing taking off soon. Could I attend your robbing on Satuday to learn the practical process ? Thanks.
  13. Jute bags from coffee roasting companies seem to be very popular in Dunedin, but some have been fumigated with methyl bromide. Is this a real or theorectical concern ? Thanks,
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