tudor

My younger son had a final interview for a high level job in Oz and when asked for any final comment he told the selection panel that joke - and got the job !

Meaning "to move in a stealthy or furtive manner" such as a bee probing the defences with the plan of a robbing attack. Action: check the hive security so that boxes all fit snugly together and don't have broken rims, and are bee proof. Also reduce entrance size if robbing is starting. I lost one hive recently which I left with one frame poorly seated so that there was a gap between two boxes, and so that robbers could gain access. When passing by a week later I noticed a few bees along the junction of the boxes but did not twig that they were robbing. Only noticed the problem ac

Hi, Minor edit: Convert a Full Depth to a Medium (3/4) hive is easy. START HERE: The queen is in the FD brood box under the excluder, lots of brood both closed and open. Place a drawn medium (3/4) box with some honey stores (it may well be the honey super that has come through over winter) on a hive mat on the ground and find the queen in the FD box. Get her to go into the medium box by picking her up (gently) or gently laying the frame she is on flat on top of the medium box with her on the lower surface – she will go to the darkness as fast as anything. Put the

Apivar 10 weeks bav 8

I hope he has a copy of the game Bananagram, that would help him if he can find a moderately sober person to play with

It's not a pricker - the cells are already uncapped - and then the modified hair roller with its clever bobbles tickles (agitates) the honey which becomes runny and comes out in the spinner. "Rollers" that you can buy do nothing to help. I assure you, I have been there and done that. Commercial extraction will do the job for you, but as a hobby BK you will/may have trouble getting it done.

Here we go again ! Its all about thixtrophism. We have discussed this before: https://www.nzbees.net/forums/topic/5290-small-honey-extractor-recomendation/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-80423 check my post on January 13 for a pic of the roller.

I'm not quite sure why a local anaesthetic cream would be used rather than an antihistamine cream such as Anthisan (it contains mepyramine maleate) which works well for me if a big load of stings on a hand. Maybe just my ignorance.

A great advantage living near Dunedin is a more effective system called opening the windows

Each season I look forward to the kanuka-rich honey which comes out just fine using the "tickler" technique I have posted above. And its easy to do ... And my family and honey clients look forward to this honey as it's unheated in any way, and keeps all it's flavour.

Gee, "grumpy" is a euphemism ...

I sometimes get a bit grumpy when people don't bother to read posts about hobby bee keeping approach and learn about the thixotrophic characteristic of kanuka honey. If the honey is agitated it changes from a gel to a liquid form and can be spun out, and over time becomes a gel again. And a half jar of gel honey won't flow, but will if stirred with a spoon - and demonstrates the principle of "tickling" I posted about. And I use a fruit press like the one described to get the honey out of the cappings if there are quite a lot.

Its all about thixtrophism. We have discussed this before: https://www.nzbees.net/forums/topic/5290-small-honey-extractor-recomendation/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-80423 check my post on January 13 for a pic of the roller.

Protected cell means the virgin emerges safely and she is usually much faster than the older, mated queen. I my experience this usually happens.

Just re-queen with a protected queen cell and the virgin queen will be the assassin who kills the present queen for you. In 6 weeks all the bad tempered bees will have died of old age and your hive will be nice again.