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Paul Jenkin

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Everything posted by Paul Jenkin

  1. Yes, there are a number of them. Most the the 'nationwide' rental schemes are based on finding other beekeepers who will work under contract essentially. Some will take a minimal percentage, and give good support and marketing, others want a lot more, and give very little. I'd suggest a franchise type system might be a better option if it was done right...
  2. I'll weigh in on this, since I'm two years or so into running a rental business (part time). The inefficiencies of having one or two hives in each location is the biggest issue - you can spend a lot of time travelling around not actually beekeeping, and of course you're paying $14ish in registration a year for every site you've got, instead of splitting it between many hives. The more hives you have in a given area, the more efficient you can become. In reality a rental fee of $400-$500 is just covering costs, and maybe allowing a bit of expansion in terms of buying new
  3. Planning on going, mainly to hear Randy Oliver. I'm just hoping they give the keynote speaker a bit more time this year...
  4. Whoops, haven't been here for a few days. [USER=3755]@Daniel Hobman[/USER] as Trev said, they're the double tough nitrile ones. Longer cuff on them and thicker than normal ones. They won't stop all stings but they do seem to stop some at least. I mostly wear them so I don't get covered in propolis, and on a job like this it stops the honey too.
  5. Eight days after removing the bees from the pump shed I'm back to check that they've moved into their new home and the queen is in there and laying.
  6. Removing a feral colony of bees from a small pump shed. I don't often get to do a cutout like this, as the bees usually find a more awkward spot that ends up with them being killed, so it's great to be able to save these girls! Part two will be live soon! Subscribe to get notified when it is.
  7. I'm an L in the Manawatu... (everyone else is H) but I first registered in Christchurch, you just take it with you when you go elsewhere.
  8. If you have two, you can spread your affection out by just doing one each time. That way you can get your bee fix twice a week...
  9. I have multiple hive tools that I've collected over the years. There are usually 3 or 4 in the truck at a time, and I'll use one for each apiary. When I run out, I use them to scrape the propolis off each other, and then clean down with meths on a rag. I'm not a fan of the flaming method as I think it probably messes with the tempering of the steel, but if I find AFB it will definitely get torched quickly with a propane torch.
  10. Downunder Honey near Cheltenham should be able to do it for you. I'll PM you Jason's details.
  11. There is a reason they're called hive 'mats' - hessian sacking/matting and other alternatives were pretty common before the modern hive mat came into fashion. I don't think bee space at the top makes a huge difference to bee movement, but it may help stop them from sticking it down with propolis.
  12. Bit late on this one, but I believe Placemakers in Chch sell tempered hardboard which is smooth both sides. You should get 15 out of each 2400 x 1200mm sheet
  13. I must have missed that thread... what happened?
  14. I just spoke to Julie at Ecrotek, and they're out of Mahurangi frames. Kate at Waireka Honey also got Alliance frames on her last order from Ecrotek instead of the Mahurangi she ordered. @Sailabee understands that Mahurangi have been bought by Ceracell. @Alastair - good points, I think it's still a good idea to replace them as the cells get smaller over time, and more and more unusable areas. So far I've only ever had to ditch the odd broken one, but some are looking like they need to go this season although I think they are probably closer to 10 years old. Plastic frames I think ar
  15. Thanks everyone. The reason I only expect to use them for 5 years or so isn't that they won't last, rather that we should be replacing them due to chemical build up - not an issue up until varroa arrived. I haven't found a time effective method of cleaning the frame and replacing the foundation - it's more cost effective to just burn it and start again imho. I got a price of $1.60 incl for the Mahurangi frames. Admittedly that is from Waireka Honey, but Kate usually goes on the Ecrotek pricing. Standard frames were around $1.25ish Good to know that the premiums really are better tho
  16. Hey guys, Looking at ordering 1000 wooden FD frames, and wondering what the diff is between the two that Ecrotek stocks (apart from the price difference of about 60c a frame). One is listed as a Premium frame (Mahurangi), and the other appears to be a standard frame, probably Alliance. Has anyone compared the two? Pricewise there is a lot between them. I don't expect wooden frames to last forever, in fact they usually end up as kindling after 5 or so years. They're only expected to be used for brood boxes. TIA
  17. If it's in a brood box, I jam them all together with an even space at either end. Sometimes get a bit of burr comb on the walls at either end (easily removed), or a fat honey frame. Over the next couple of years that gap disappears as they propolise the shoulders of all the frames, before long you struggle to get ten frames in. If it's in a honey super, I only run 8 or 9 frames evenly spaced.
  18. Just wondering who is going to conference this year, and whether it's worth organising a meet-up of some kind one evening? Also, if anyone else is as stingy as me, I have a spare bunk bed in a cabin you can have for $25 a night (or $35 if you want the bottom one!) (6 kms from Rotorua). I may snore just a little though...
  19. Following on from the last video of assembling a frame, here is a couple of different ways to wire a kitset Hoffman style frame for a beehive - using basic tools through to pneumatic stapler.
  20. [USER=4057]@Phil46[/USER] - that's because it is simple :) No need to complicate basic stuff...
  21. Anyone can build a kitset frame, no fancy tools required. Here's a few different ways to assemble a Hoffman style frame for a beehive - basic tools through to pneumatic stapler and jig.
  22. Had an interesting conversation with my neighbour (dairy farmer) about this yesterday. He's trying to get clover back into his paddocks, but for him, it's a fine line between the paddock rotation being long enough for the clover to seed, and the milk production levels. He's happy to have my 8 home hives at this end of his farm to help with pollination though I think he's more 'organic' than some of the other farmers around here, although in general the area is smaller family owned farms, so there seems to be more sustainable practices going on than the often 'just dump x ton on every x days'
  23. [USER=2876]@Queen Bee[/USER] - if you're planning on cutting them down, be careful where you put nails/screws - you don't want those going through the saw. Not so bad if it's screws because you can remove them, but any extra holes is just another chance for moisture to get into the wood.
  24. The worst I've had is about 2mm out. Like Aquila, I assemble all of mine so the top of the box is flat, and then run through the table saw if I'm doing a heap, or plane if only a few. If they're as far out as in the photo, and they're undersized I'd be inclined to return them.
  25. I put about 400kg through a hand cranked 3 frame SS Lega last season. I wouldn't want to do much more than that though. The big advantage of the 3 frame over the 4 is that it's a lot smaller for the 360 days of the year it's in storage. I lifted it a bit higher so I can fit a 20l bucket with filter under it, and just run it with the tap open all the time (it doesn't have a tank on it). I change out the bucket when the filter fills up. If I use the heat gun uncapping method with boxes that have just come off the hive (warm) three filters and buckets (fabric type paint strainers) can keep u
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