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Trevor Gillbanks

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Everything posted by Trevor Gillbanks

  1. Not sure if it is flat. Looks like it, or close too it. Now it becomes and access thing. Does the lift go all the way to the roof etc. Several years ago, when I worked for palmerston North city Council, I thought is would be a great idea to put hives on top of the council building. Getting permission was easy, However, access to the roof was by ladder only. There is no way that i was going to try and carry a 30 kg box of bees or honey up or down a ladder. Sadly, that was the end of the project.
  2. That is effective against snails and slugs. It is not effective against ants. There are lots of ant deterrents. As #yesbut has said. Fresh green grass under the lid. Cinnamon, Nutmegs lavender essential oils. and probably a lot of others. Ants are not a problem unless they are argentine ants
  3. It's free, so download it more times if needed.
  4. 100%. Do not leave the QE on, as the bees can move up to the honey box and leave the queen behind. Are you running all 3/4 boxes now. That is because you have not made a donation to NZ bees. Which is fine, but you do not get messaging access.
  5. I missed the bit about the hive matt with holes. No I don't think this is a good idea. The honey itself is a good insulator and I would just remove the hive mat. Put it on top of the honey box. Let the bees go up into the the honey and move the brood up as they want. In the spring the bees will all be in the top box and the bottom box will be empty. Remove the empty box of old frames and put a new box of either clean drawn frames or foundation on top. Recycle the old frames as per normal. (Make them new again.)
  6. Or buy up several small businesses and join them together to become a large business.
  7. Welcome to the forum @Toby Clark. Best wishes with you petition. First you b=need to find out if the roof of the beehive is suitable for one or more. Such as Access to the roof, A suitable flat area to put the hives, and getting past the security system of the main beehive itself. Security is pretty tight down there.
  8. What fancy white lump on the side of the wax. If you mean the round thing in the second photo, then it is the access hole into the syrup feeder. There is 2 of them.
  9. That is a pretty big coverage for a label. EU and the country would be a lot better. That is sure open to rout.
  10. I agree. Looks great in the back yard and on the videos. I am not sure I would want to drag it around a bee yard. Also, look at the space it would take on your vehicle.
  11. Or someone who spends a lot of money on bees and thinks they will make a profit. I understand your sentiments. But pretty much everyone in NZ would be hobbyist, by your definition.
  12. Bayvarol and Apistan are the same product by 2 different companies. Apivar and Apitraz is another product by 2 companies. It is best to rotate these 2 products. Have you done a varroa count (sugar shake) on any of the hives. The hives that you took the treatment out in February could be struggling soon. I would put Apivar or apitraz in those hives. Then in about September I would put in Bayvarol or Apistan. Hope that helps.
  13. What part was inappropriate language. I do have the ability to use words that are not swear words
  14. @Bron We had a saying in Orchid growing: Work out the space you need to grow your orchids, double it, and you will then have about half the space required. Now change it to any hobby you want. lol
  15. It is quite common at this time of the year to see two queens in a hive. Mother and daughter. They will usually live happily together over the winter and then in early spring the mother (in this case - marked queen) will disappear. (killed by the daughter). I have often seen three queens in a hive and once saw four.
  16. "Murphy's Law on Storage" Apply as you want. Rubbish will expand to fill all storage space.
  17. Maybe, if you put your true position on as your experience level, it would not have needed to be changed. 1500 hives was certainly not hobby level. There is a reason for having these Experience Levels. As when a new member on the forum asks for assistance, your true statis goes a long way to credibility for the person asking for the help. You are being watched. Like big Arnie "I will return". lol
  18. Neil Farrer at Apiary Services is a good guy to deal with. Have a look at my video and you will see how the patties are made etc.
  19. No. We slabbed it into 60mm thick slabs 4 m long. We on sold most of the boards to make corporate meeting room tables. These were very big bits of wood. We still have a bit around. I did make a lot of hive frames with off cuts. Beautiful wood to machine and finish.
  20. I presume it is the XP model. That is what I had as my main mill. A fantastic saw. I bought the 1800 mm bar specially to do a little Totara log the we found in the Manawatu River. The log was 30 m long and 1.8 m di at the butt end. Root ball was still attached. It was washed down the river in the 2010 floods and my friend and I had a permit to recover and mill it from Horizon and local Iwi. It was a massive job.
  21. That is a couple of pretty impressive stacks. I would have loved to have a Lucus mill. Have you got the 6-in or 8-in. The 8-in can make some very big boards. BTW. Welcome to the forum.
  22. You are so correct with that statement. A 90 cc saw is ok for logs up to 300 mm wide but over that you need 120 cc. My big saw could run a 1800 bar. The bigger the saw, the less teeth you need on a chain. My milling chain was 9 1/2 inch chain. That is one pair of teeth every 9 1/2 inches.
  23. I tried that in the past. Result: Mold between the slabs. The moisture content of the board migrates to the surface and cannot escape to dry off. The moisture needs the gap of fillets to allow the air movement to dry the timber surface moisture. I also like my fillets to be at least 25mm as any less the moisture removal is insufficient. Sap staining is a direct result of close fillet (or non fillet) stacking.
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