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H Hives

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  • DECA Holder
    Yes
  • Beekeeping Experience
    Hobby Beekeeper

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  • Location
    Somerville, Auckland

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  1. @jamesc very insighful answer and I thank you for the response.
  2. Hi Matt, To clarify, i'm a second year beek. I have 4 hives here in rural Auckland and no intention of going commercial. More context, we (wife and ) have a single income and three kids, so there is no backing of a multinational agenda here trying to fish out industry secrets. Neither is there a fleet of helecopters poised to go I also have a business background here so the types of questions here is just part of how I genrally think. Just a genuine questoiner here seeking genuine answers. I have found keepers generally to be the nicest natured people and think the wid
  3. Thanks Alastair - fortunately/unfortunately I have a mind that can cause paralysis by analysis, so if I was generally correct on many points it's nice to hear the kind of respones out there. Cheers.
  4. HI Flash4cash and others off topic, I'm not sure of your intention here and won't join in some sneering reponse. I only trust you put greater effort into loving those around you, rather than tearing down those who might have a different world view than yours. Sincerely, Corban
  5. I have certainly learnt some bees produce at a more rapid rate than others. i.e.Cinderella's glass slipper doesn't fit your average bohemeth. It sounds like the variable rates you refer to means there needs to be some proximity for the honey grounds to be checking on these more regular than a drop and go via helecopter? Point 3 if corrected may answer some of my assumptions down the list. i.e. if 2 supers are the starting point, then more will be added if necessary during the flow.
  6. Yup. Then again, the local shops seems to sell commercial grade vaporisers for a hefty price. I just cannot fathom the 'Spray and walk away' method working here, given it needs more regular vapor treatments - compared to dropping in a few strips that get removed in over a month..
  7. Hi commercial people, It is not always well received when one is asked to show their cards. Then again hopefully this question is not a ‘trade secret’ as such but rather a quench of my curiosity for how you operate on larger scales. I saw some of these helicopters dropping in pallets of either 1 x 4, 2 x 4 (8) or 3 x 4 (12) hives at a time, being dropped on certain Manuka sites around various stomping grounds. My observations were the depths of these were generally 2 broods and 2 supers. For transport purposes, all hive sizes were uniform in height. Please c
  8. I'd like to know how useful restricting access is vs placing on robbing screens you see on wooden bases. Kiwimana had the wooden examples but again, I don't believe these will fit Hive Doctor bases (Original or Smarts)
  9. I guess for myself, I don't want to go into 'wasp mode' just to winter my hives. So hence why my thoughts to those who might have a hive doctor + robbing screen setup that doesn't involve the size of the entrance, but rather deals with how yellow jackets and other foreign bees try to otherwise in biblical speak 'steal, kill and destroy'. I'd be interested in hearing how your bees settle down after this commotion.
  10. 1) single disk (original) 2) triple disk (smart) 3) cover (smart) My understanding is the screens act as a barrier to usual entrance..
  11. Hi Beeks, I have seen some robbing screens that are better suited for traditional wooden bases. I also have Hive Doctors bases however (Original x1 and Smart x 2) which have a lowered base for the entrance, rather than flush flat wooden. I have not had any robbing in mine, however my friend's apiary 30 meters away has had one of his weaker hive robbed out just a week ago. What robbing solutions do people suggest for Hive Doctor bases? I live 5 minutes away and it's not practical to check daily for any odd behaviours. So just seeking proactive strategies for my 3 hives.
  12. Thanks Trev, I'm considering using my existing apiary or this new site to manage a few hives over winter. The winter attraction is the potential for a source of nectar over winter. But if this is a perception and not a reality, I might wait until spring to use this new site as a fresh source of nectar. I discovered someone dropped 20 hives not more than 600 meters down the vallet from my spot
  13. I've been in touch with someone who has a lot of camellias down her rural setting. As any good keeper wants to keep their bees close to food sources; depending on the scale of camellias, are these a notably good source for nectar (and possibly pollen) over Autumn/Winter/Spring?
  14. Thanks for the heads up. My spares are being used up as the hive expands. I got 4 x FD and 2 x 3/4 boxes only I've got access to my friend's father's gear to borrow if need be, i'm just weary of using older equipment, even though he's had no history of AFB. His Apiary is however 30 meters away, so I don't know how big the risk is or is not presently. Otherwise Just In Time (JIT) method of purchasing might be my approach.
  15. Thanks, yes I think i'll aim for 3 by season's end. But wisdom tells me not to try too many things in my first year. Also required on my end is to invest more into boxes and hardware to factor in the growth that occurs in spring and flow in summer. I'm enjoying this journey so far
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