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Christi An

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Christi An last won the day on June 4 2018

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About Christi An

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    Pupa

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  • Beekeeping Experience
    Hobby Beekeeper

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    Gisborne

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  1. heres another study paper (in english) done by the belgians. https://www.health.belgium.be/sites/default/files/uploads/fields/fpshealth_theme_file/verslag_veldproef_bijenwas_ilvo_rapport_stearine_def_en.pdf
  2. i would be surprised if there werent already heaps of chinese "beeswax" in nz. apart from the biosecirity lssue chineese wax can (and very likely will) contain other products like stearine or paraffine (the latter being mixed into wax foundation for decades worldwide). In 2016 someone imported tons of chinese beeswax into europe. At first the issue was mostly ignored by the officials (and it sometimes still is). In short scientists proved that even 5% contamination of pure beeswax with this chinese product will kill brood. have a look at the pictures here http://www.bee-gann.de/bilder.html rest assured that the hives you see there were checked for any diseases and were healthy, apart from the wax in their comb killing them. (the symptoms also disappeared if they removed the comb completely and put the hives onto fresh and pure wax foundation) any beekeeper waxing his own frames or producing his own foundation with his own beeswax will be fine, everybody else should at least be aware. that said does anybody know a lab that does test beeswax for contamination and pesticide residues?
  3. what is the theory behind as to how 1080 would actually make it into a beehive? dust? bees trying to forage sugar from the baits?
  4. it is proven they are a threat to honeybees, but they dont threaten any honeybee population for various reasons (beekeepers keeping other diseases at bay and making enough splits is one). agricultural pesticides in general however are responsible in the biggest loss of biomass (insects) worldwide. in certain areas up to 80% of all insect live has gone (and many birds) - speaking more of europe here. im always very pleased to see how many bugs still fly around here. regarding 1080 it would be interesting to get some scientific evidence that does not have a high risk of being biased.
  5. i find it very interesting that when talking about 1080 a lot of people will go nuts, who at the same time don't seem to care about neonics and glyphosate (and not seldom use those substances themselves).
  6. i honestly dont think the bottom board is the problem here...
  7. as always it depends on a lot of circumstances if you overwinter on 2 or even 3 boxes the distance to the top insulation will likely be too big to make a difference. all the heat would just exit the hive through the uninsulated side walls. In this particular case insulation needs to be closer to the source of heat to work. that said it is proven that bees in styrofoam boxes consume less stores over winter. So generally speaking it will be beneficial. Also in certain side by side setups bees often tend to cluster towards the side next to the other hive. Thats why some beekeepers like to overwinter 2 weaker nucs in one box separated by a thin divider board. but again for a strong hive thats not all that relevant. Bees are very resilient and adaptive and thus almost any setup will work for them. the differences often are not that distinctive which makes it very hard to figure out whats best for them. Although it is clear that a standard langstroth box is very different to the "ideal" feral colony setup figured out by tom seeley. also circumstances like temperature and humidity can and will be very different from one apiary to another (especially if you consider whole of nz). so whats good for one beekeeper might not be ideal for another. that said i think anywere in nz youll be able to overwinter an otherwise healthy hive regardless of insulation or bottom board setup. the reason for me to have meshed bottom boards is the use of a sticky board and the fact that i can keep the hive entrances small regardless of the outside temperature (heat)
  8. my gut feeling sais he means formic acid
  9. go ahead. but definately insulate your top cover/hive mat ! at least 30 mm styrofoam
  10. varroa mites usually hide inside capped brood (most of them) or underneath a bees abdomen. If you see the occasional mite on top of a bee it usually just means that there are way too many of them. theres no way they would be able to just rub the mites off a number of times big enough to make any difference. so in short: no it wont work
  11. assuming that those 100 mites (per 300 bees) indeed come from reinvasion you MUST make sure they dont reach the brood (especially around this time of the year where the longer living winter bees are reared) so definately treat again (the idea to use another substance sounds like a good idea just in case)
  12. great chance to make them nearly varroa free (does not mean they will remain free of varroa once heavily infested hives in the vicinity start dying) with just 1 treatment of oa.
  13. it depends how you melt it. The Pupaes skins will soak up a lot of wax if you melt it "dry". Steam and hot water will soak the skins and thus reduce the amount of wax wasted.
  14. robbing is not the cause of the weak hive, the hive is being robbed because its weak. make sure to find the cause the brood on the picture looks diseased. (looks like mites but might be not). feeding of sugar only encourages the robbing. close the entrance to one beespace and find the reason.
  15. the fact that the standard outer lids you get here are so unsuitable also gives me grief. im used to conical lids with about 2cm per side overhang and closed outer edges. you happen to know of any source for something like that?
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