Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Seller statistics

  • 0
  • 0
  • 0

Markypoo last won the day on November 24 2018

Markypoo had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

391 Excellent

About Markypoo

  • Rank


  • DECA Holder
  • Beekeeping Experience
    Beginner Beekeeper
  • Facebook


  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

1043 profile views
  1. If you read my post carefully, you will see that I am perfectly well aware that a 1/2 dozen hive person like myself cannot do it. I understand the New Zealand experience is different from overseas in that varroa is a relatively recent arrival. I also don't believe it is easy. I have read Randy Olivers stuff, as well as others. It takes many years and many dead bees to accomplish. I haven't stated that it is easy so I am not sure where you are getting that from. If it was easy for a 1/2 dozen hive person like myself to do it, I would be and marketing them appropriately. But I am really not interested in an online battle so I will declare you victor and move on.
  2. Yeah, small cell is a bit of dead end I think. And as I quite clearly stated, I went foundationless so I could harvest the wax. As far as varroa resistant bees, of course the wild hives died out with a new parasite arriving. But did any check to see if some held out longer than others? I think not. So do you discount all the worldwide work that has been going on with varroa resistance? Is Randy Oliver wasting his time? Now I don't know what the study was you mentioned, but I can find a link about a possible study that Mark Goodwin wanted to start up. The link is from 2016 so clearly the study would still be going if it did get started. When I read a peer reviewed paper, detailing selection and breeding of varroa resistant bees, it is clear that it can be done. These papers are not fakes, they are legitimate studies or reviews. Here are just a fraction of the links I found. https://aristabeeresearch.org/program/ https://www.apidologie.org/articles/apido/pdf/2010/03/m09127.pdf https://www.apidologie.org/articles/apido/pdf/2010/03/m09147.pdf https://beecare.bayer.com/media-center/beenow/detail/breeding-varroa-resistant-honey-bees And here is a NZ example, http://www.beesmartbreeding.co.nz/services/queen-breeding/ I am going to quite happily use my staples to treat the varroa. Someone with more cash and resources than me will have to be the one to develop varroa resistant or varroa tolerant bees. But anyway, I shall go home to my worm resistant sheep, and wander amongst my leaf curl resistant peach trees and ponder on the possibility of one day having varroa resistant bees.
  3. I assume by the real world you mean commercial enterprises? Or just anything outside a research site? There is a stack for both. Do a search for breeding varroa resistant bees. Thats all you need to do. You will find many hours of reading. Including peer reviewed papers. Even Randy Oliver's site. Its all out there and it there is plenty of evidence that it works. Sometimes it seems to produce quite aggressive bees but there is some UK stuff that looks promising. But OA staples seem to negate the need to breed for resistance. Though come the apocalypse we might undergo rapid natural selection for varroa resistance.
  4. I decided foundationless was more a goer. I have set up a kenyan topbar and a tanzanian topbar. Both are going extremely well. I also set up some foundationless frames in my langs. I am not worried about a good harvest, but I wanted wax. Foundationless worked well. I am still interested in the whole varroa resistent bee thing. The data is there to show it works. But I don't have enough hives to do it myself. Maybe one day I will try it.
  5. I did, I also suspect that I harvested too early. There is still quite a decent flow on. But I removed the excluder after I harvested. Oh well. Another new thing learnt. At least I won't be feeding them sugar this winter.
  6. I have a labour pool ready and able to help lift heavy supers should I get old and frail.
  7. The trouble is, when you are a newbie, it is hard to find a nuc that is not FD, so it sort of forces everyone to use FD frames and supers at the start. I am trying to transition now. I am going to move a couple of hives to topbars so that will free up some frames.
  8. Had a look in my kenyan topbar today. Interesting to see where I had been hanging a staple. Clearly the queen wasn't interested in laying beneath the staple so the girls packed it with honey. But they didn't want to draw out the comb properly on the the topbar next to it. The plastic foundation is one of my starter frames (I trimmed a FD plastic frame to fit my topbar and started it off in a lang).
  9. So just over two weeks ago we harvested the honey out of the school hives. We were using the scrape technique to get the honey and wax off the plastic foundation. I popped the wets back on the hive they came from. While I was there, I removed the queen excluder. Currently the hive has 2 fd boxes with the 3/4 box of honey super wets on top. Today I popped the lid to see what they had done to the wets (being my first honey harvest and all). To my surprise I saw this. I say surprise but I tried to run the hive without an excluder and found the queen laying in the top box early in the season. So she has a history of climbing to the top. They have drawn out most of the frames, apart from a couple only half done. Clearly lots of nectar coming from somewhere. They are going to be going into winter with a stack of stores.
  10. Yeah there is a big range of differences between queens. I had one that will lay underneath the staples, one that will not lay within a couple of cells. Both carni, italian and hybrid queens. I had one hive that stripped all the wax behind a couple of staple right down to the foundation. And it seems to have changed between spring and autumn treatments. Maybe with less pressure to produce workers, the queens are a lot more selective, standing out from the queens that do not care.
  11. Its had it since before xmas at the very least, when it was a nuc. If it is a virus. I still claim its an older field bee with abdomen fluff worn off. But I'm not losing any sleep over it if it cant be treated and may cure itself.
  12. I will have to keep an eye on the hive then. From the research I did last night, sounds like there is not too much I can do about it. However I am not entirely convinced that it is a not colour variation. I have found a number of posts on foreign bee forums querying all black bees in carniolan hives. The consensus seems to be that they are a result of natural variation and may be older bees in which the hair has worn off the abdomen (which explains why my ones still have a hairy thorax. By the sounds of it I will have a number of dead bees in a few weeks if it is a virus.
  13. I have looked up BPV videos. It was not like that. It was flew in as I after I opened the hive and was racing around quite fast/normally. Assuming it is a BPV, can anybody direct me to a good source of info about it.
  14. Was in the school hives this weekend putting in OA staples and nicking honey. Got some shots showing how dark they can be. This is from one of @David Yanke queens. Grafted from an AI queen and open mated. Lots of variation.
  15. Who said they were hairless or shiny? Edit: I got it. Nah I meant I have bees that look like all the other girls apart from colour. Not many I grant you.
  • Create New...