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Fast Tony

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About Fast Tony

  • Rank
    Nu Bee

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  • Beekeeping Experience
    International Beekeeper

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  • Location
    California
  1. that is really intriguing. So brings up the question of using it in a skin spray. I guess it can be quite popular mixed into salves, but sounds like it can carry some componants that cause bad reactions to some. I wonder about the forage that makes up the propolis, what resins maybe are more prone or inclined to be bad, ..I thought I've heard pine needles can turn toxic on top of a water cooler storage tank...think the term " turpentine " came from this reaction
  2. thanks for the feedback Stoney ... hmm interesting. So, sounds like the bees endure some degree of stress when using this technique. I try to minimize that from happening, so would have to research this further, if there even is another technique to gather bee venom. So it makes a dry powder? Can a bee sting slightly or halfway and release some venom, without pulling out it's innards, causing death like a typical bee sting? I wonder how legitimate the benefits of bee venom really are? I hadn't heard of anti-aging creme? Sounds like a great marketing tactic. I've heard of the administered doses of bee venom to help with arthritis, that's about it
  3. Thanks everyone for your thoughtful contributions. Very interesting to read and hear some of the personal accounts. I haven't started harvesting propolis yet, but I am thinking of mixing it into some salves and also making some sprays with it at some point down the road. Also, via instagram, I'm @jaxwildhoney ... I follow this one beekeepr who harvests bee venom and this has kind of intrigued me somewhat, as I believe there is a way to do it without harming the bees by using a type of pad that collects it. He's found some sort of customer base. Just struck me as interesting, as it's not a component I hear of many people actively harvesting or at all.
  4. yes,...agreed Trevor. Funny how some spots hurt worse than others, ..think worst places I've been stung was both sides of my neck when I was first starting out. 8 hours later, I woke up and it felt like I had a neck brace / collar on Also...right in the middle of my thumbprint was more painful than I would've imagined and also, a few during a removal got me repeatedly on the ankle when my gear slipped while I was reaching up and that was plenty sore too.
  5. hi all, I ran into a cattle farmer yesterday and he said he thought there was a lifetime limit to the number of bee stings a person could receive before they turn allergic or fatal to the recipient. He threw out the number 1000 or there abouts. I laughed, becuase I never heard that, and couldn't believe it, anyone else? Hard to imagine ?? I assume the venom dissipates over time from periodic stings. I know about maximum stings all at once, like 20 stings per kilogram of body weight, and not referring to people who are truly allergic. One person I know said her father kept bees his whole life and one day he fainted in the shower shortly after inspecting his hives and his doctor told him, it was a reaction to bee venom and he stopped beekeeping....and I don't think he was taking any sort of medication. Curious if anyone has ever heard such a thing as a lifetime limit? Obviously there are people who keep bees over a lifetime without issue, and I'm thinking this must be false, but thought I'd post the question. At least this post is good for a laugh, if in fact I'm correct, because I can't seem to find any info to validate it being either true or false.. Thanks
  6. Just a little update.... the wood ash knocked the ants out right away, and seemed to do a good job of keepng them away, even up to a few weeks later so far, ..without re-applying the ash. I'm gonna keep on with it, when need be, since I have plenty of wood ash. There are some decades old ant colonies not far away on and around some 100+ year old Oak trees that surround the yard. I only used the ash around the legs of solo behive stands I built with screen bottom boards built in. I haven't used any wood ash in the screen bottom boards direcdtly under the hives because, there's been no pests. In early January, (mind you this in California, ending mild winter at that time) ... I had seen a small amount of small hive beetles that popped up over winter when populations went a little low...and I filled foil casserole dishes with veg oil, and put those in the screen bottom boards, and in combination with early spring and mild temps here,...all hives starting populate well, and as of a month ago,..zero hive beetles. I've never even treated for mites, as when I've done inspections checking a few larvae, and bees themselves,...no mites at all, since August, when I started the apiary. I even use a magnifier to really look at the bees up close and the bees and brood are mite free. I had pondered putting wood ash in the screen bottom boards under the hives in the event beetles pop up when it starts to get hot (becuase oil gets rancid or smelly and beetles start to avoid the screen bottom boards once dead beetles might start sitting in the oil for even a few days.) So far seems like the hives are getting strong enough,..they are keeping any pests at bay and looking healthy, populating away, and started to store lots of pollen and nectar. I do think the ash could be a good preventative for mites, working like diatamaceous earth, but I'm thinking, do I really need to run prevenative measures, because the hives are looking pretty good, and populations seem to be keeping the hives clean and healthy so far,..., and unless the weather turns, I try to inspect the hives no more or less than once every seven days to minimise stess on the bees. I did have this thought...would you want wood ash blowing around up in your honey stores? Not that a lot of wind is going to run through the hive, but there is air circulating in some spots and you know how easy ash can blow around. The hive stands do elevate the hives just enough to make it easier to work them. I can only say, if the majority of honey is in supers above, maybe not so much an issue, and I'm leaning towards not using excluders. We're not even talking a dozen hives, so it's not a big apiary. I also had a random thought,..I know that wood ash, while being used to supplement or ammend soil, can make it go maybe too basic sometimes, for some things you might be growing...but that it contains so many useful essential minerals that comes from the burnt wood,...essential minerals, some say we can't even get in our food we consume any longer and that the wood ash is one of the few ways to put it back into plants you might want to surround your apiary with or from crops you want to grow to consume. Something like 90 or so essential minerals people need for good health....so I have been thinking if i do use the wood ash close to the honey production,..is it bad, or could it actually add some positive addittion to the honey, if it can get any of the essential minerals? Not sure...probably only can benefit the plants and in turn the nectar that comes out of them. I would just rely (in this small quanity i'm working with) on the good old fashioned taste test and see,...well how does the honey taste?
  7. hi all, been a while since logged in here,...and just to clarify,...am in the states in Southern California. Mild Winter,..lots of rain lately, and spring weeks away, tons of pollen cominig into the hvies today....and noticed a lot of ants just now. I use a woodstove to heat my cabin, so I always save the wood ash for the garden. Anyways,... i just sprinkled some small amounts around the legs of some hive stands and around some hives which are seated on on a pallot also that looked like a ton of ants were moving in on, black ants. I've used green grass before, have heard about corn starch, oil moats,..etc.. for ant detterent,..when i put some pollen patties made with sugar and pollen under the lids mid-winter..i used green grass under the lids and ants were deterred,..but now, there's tons of fresh grass and lots of activity (incuding ants) Since i just sprinkled the wood ash and did my best to keep it in tight lines, (not that it won't blow with wind or wash away with rain,). the ants,....pretty much stopped instantly, so was just curious ...has anybody had any luck with this technique?,...and I was also wondering about the possiblity of using it under my hives below screen bottom boards for SHB..which I know is not in NZ,..but thinking similar to Diatamacious earth using the wood ash...have been lucky so far no problems with mites,..but thought this might be good on screen bottom board for mites also and beetles,..becuase I know some people use wood ash mixed with sand, 1 to 1 to keep mites off chickens...just wondering,..got me thinking,..since oil in a pan is bad technique for under screen bottom when it gets hot....as it gets rather smelly quickly and goes off. Ok..thanks
  8. Yes, I agree. I try to accomodate when possible. The property owner was insistent, said the bess were getting too agressive, stinging without provocation daily and wanted them taken away. I could only guess it was becuase the space they were in was way over-populated, and they were about to swarm maybe. Honey stores were pretty ample, but of course as soon as they absconded the hive was robbed quickly by the surrounding hives, and yellow jackets. Also, in Southern California, we have a very mild Winter, and there is not as extreme a shut down for the season compared to the Northern half of the US
  9. ha, ha, sorry, should have mentioned. I was living in Bay Of Islands when I joined this forum years ago....this incident has taken place in the states now...in Southern California, but I am a Kiwi.
  10. Thank you for the replies. I was thinking the same, in regards to the pieces of comb taken from the nest that is being removed. If they are not rubber-banded in the frames that are making up the new hive, exactly as they were built in the original nest; from top to bottom vertically, same direction, etc, I was wondering the likliehood of the bees rejecting the brood if they weren't placed exactly the same direction. I have a bag of extra comb; some empty brood comb, some just empty, no cocoons, used just for honey and pollen....and now I am thinking, aside from being used as some attractant or bait, ...probably best to only use comb in the frames from the hive being removed, and to remove as often as possible, pieces of comb that are complete, one piece that fit as close as possible to fill the full frame without pieces, if I can help it. The hive actually was transported at sunrise, closed in transit. They had originally moved into an abandoned squirrel re-hab box in Spring (Long story, someone elses property who called me) and it was a well established, healthy hive. There were zero hive beetles in fact. I think I made the mistake of moving them and then placing them into a hive box with frames when I returned home, should have just let them rest. Brood was moved quickly and it was a warm day. I placed them on a pallet a couple feet away, between two other existing hives. Those hives used to be quite aggressive, but they are not so much any more. I did make the new hive's entrance, exactly opposite the other two, 180 degrees, since it was going in between the other two existing hives. I try to not even go into the hives unless there is some specific reason or improvement or maintenance that needs to be done. Once every two weeks preferably, but not more than once a week, if I have to check something time sensitive.
  11. Hello, Recently did a bee removal and relocated the bees,... way beyond three miles to their new location. The queen was moved safely with the bees. I did not shut the bees in and seal the hive for 48-72 hours since it was well beyond 3 miles to the new location, but the bees swarmed anyways, (probably about two days later after I moved them.) The colony vacated the brood and honey stores I had rubber-banded into the new hive box and frames. I've read that if it's less than three miles to shut them in with food and water and proper ventilation, and then re-orient them after that waiting period to re-set their gps using foliage and branches in their entrance once you've removed the hardware cloth or screen or whatever you used to close off the hive entrance. I know if the bees find the move or removal too stressful they can swarm and leave following, but I'm curious...should I have kept the queen in a queen cage for a few days or used a queen excluder while they acclimated to the new location, becuase i did not seal off the hive box when I placed the colonly in their new location? Thanks for any replies
  12. Appreciate the direction and tips everyone! Though I am eager to begin, I'm trying to do my homework and realize there's a lot to it and more. Reading and watching a lot of videos and collecting information still at this stage. Think his name was Rod, owns the Honey Center near Warkworth...he suggested I just read about it for a year. Hope to go up Kaitaia and even somewhere closer and see some hives in action soon. I guess there are some hives at the Opua primary school. On the legal side, I am pretty close to the water and sure the area I am in is considered rural-residential, though the backyard is bush and goes into reserve, and have been hearing kiwis as of late I have neighbors close on both sides... So far I believe, I need to have permission from the neighbors (Not sure, but think this is true - at least they can't be considered a nuisance to the neighbors, or else the council can get a complaint) I'm just renting a cottage at this stage. Haven't approached the landlord/owners yet. It also totally possible I will go rural and maybe then be a better time to start caring for some bees, not sure, but certainly a possibility. Know that the hives have to registered and inspected and kept disease and mite free.
  13. Great and thank you, have just sent you a message Wayne. Definitely keen and appreciate the kind offer. ..and you like Guiness, ...we are getting along already
  14. Thanks for the replies! Awesome. Think I'm hoping I might be able to find someone not too far away who is already successfully doing this and might let me help them out in exchange for some experience. Would be good to see some established hives and get a chance to see someone working at that level maybe before trying to bring on my own and load them up and jump into it. Though I am kind of anxious, I won't lie,...being on the crux of a good time of the year to start.
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