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  1. You also need enough mating weather conditions I've found most queens need min 19 degree (real feel) for mating flights. Some need 18, some need 20 After 28 days from emergence the queen can't be mated with (her thingy closes up), sometimes sooner
  2. Pick the right tool for the circumstance. Those markets have different circumstances i.e lots of regulation versions and a much longer market cycle. Momentum or trend following would probably be better tools
  3. Based on mean reversion theory, I think there will be a small correction in bee prices this spring Pricing components for my forecasts of 2018 Spring nucs: Demand: Expecting the same. Looks like its inelastic in the $150-$300 price point. Supply: Expecting more. Based on the good bee margins over the last few years I think more bee suppliers have entered the market. (Ignoring changes to the winter loss rate and honey price)
  4. The seller very likely knows that without bees, the gear the gear isn't worth as much. If I was exiting bee keeping and had gear to dispose of that was AFB free, I would put bees in my gear to get a higher price for the gear. The seller is being fishy I know I'm stating the obvious here, but sometimes greed can cloud judgement
  5. In summer/spring if I took lots of capped brood from a hive, the hive will supersede the queen due to population age imbalance. If I take all the capped brood today, will the hive start making a supersede queen cell in April? What is the cut-off for doing this going into winter? Is there one as some say the bees not necessarily the queen make the decisions?
  6. Last week during the day I spilt about 50ml of syrup next to a hive I was feeding with a top feeder. I didn't this clean up, I was pushing my luck here. Later in the day the hive was getting robbed and defending bees were putting up a fight, so I reduced about 75mm entrance down to one beespace, but it was still getting robbed. The next morning I put one of my DIY robbing screens on and things were busy for a day, this is the pic below. There is alot less attempted robbery now.
  7. Why is the hive weak? varroa issue or laying worker etc? 2 frames of bees needs to be a nuc box, not a hive. The queen still has good chances of mating, but your chances decrease the more you mess around with the hive. My guess is you could put the hive in a NUC ASAP, before your queen starts flying outside. If your hive is healthy you could overwinter it in the NUC, giving it back its stores its hive currently has as it uses them.
  8. I bought a CCTV system on ebay for my apiary at my house, it was only 170NZD delivered plus a hard drive. The quality is good and it was easy enough to setup and install myself. My house has outdoor power in a lockable shed which helps. The CCTV is motion sensor and hard drive is part of the recording system (no PC needed) so it uses little power. I also have avocados, the CCTV also watches these trees. Avocado theft is also now a thing. This coming season I think there be more hive theft at night around early spring.
  9. After adding that new frame of eggs one week ago, I made no further changes to this hive. On todays inspection I saw new eggs on three other frames and two queens in this hive, there was only one frame separating the two queens. One of the queens was large and another was smallish.
  10. Buyer beware! I had a learning lesson from this guy The following is facts I bought a nuc from that seller OP is refering to in Apr17 for $200. It had a mated queen, 4 frames 10% drawn and 1 frame 70 % drawn and the bees were starving. I told the seller I was not happy with my purchase and I was rejected a refund. I used trademe dispute resolution and the seller offered me 1 frame of brood which I declined and then ignored the trademe resolution. I didnt' give bad feedback. My recommendation: Buyers know or have written evidence ahead of purchase what they are
  11. I saw the queen on my inspection yesterday and to me she looked big enough to be mated. I have 2 other hives and surplus nucs at my house. Today I added a frame of eggs and newly hatched larvae (I added notches for OTS queen rearing and the frame is newly drawn and not seen brood or stores before) I plan to inspect this frame in a few days, hopefully queen cells are being made? I have a preference for having the top two supers of honey capped over hive numbers, do you think I should I move these supers onto another honey producing hive?
  12. I've taken some pics, see links below I didn't do a good job. I thought I took one of the 2 capped queen cells that are emergency like on dark brown brood frame, but turns out I didn't
  13. On today's inspection the queen wasn't laying in one my hives. There is a mated queen, 4 queen cells and maybe 20 cells of capped drone brood and no other brood in any stages i.e egg or capped/emerging bees. Apart from the lack of brood the hive is strong. The hive has four full depth boxes. The top two boxes are honey and are half capped. The bottom two boxes are the brood nest and the middle has empty cells (not back filled) and further out the nest there is pollen then honey. Its parent hive was treated for Varroa in Early spring using bayvoral. The hive was ful
  14. Swarm was no longer there. I wasn't contacted by Lorri, but I went to the warehouse royal oak at 6pm. I found the spot and it looks as though there was a swarm there earlier today. see attached pic
  15. Hi Lorri I can try and collect it from 6.30pm tonight (I live in Onehunga but l want to wait until the traffic dies down). If you click on my profile icon you will see my contact details.
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