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Ukrainian beekeeper

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  1. Hello everyone! We are beekeepers from Ukraine. We have 70 bee colonies in the apiary. We have been engaged in beekeeping for 15 years. There are many sunflower fields around our apiary. So the main flow at the end of summer. Bees are carrying sunflower honey. We have a channel about bees in Russianhttps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVh...RYcx1J_UI-59awNow we created a new channel in English. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUjEZESPWJp3Q2okZKVSwYQIn our channel, we will blogging about bees and the principles of beekeeping in our locality. Subscribe to our channel! Ask questions! We are glad to everyone!
  2. Hello. Someone used wormwood tincture for the prevention and treatment of nosematosis and varroa? What do you think about using tinctures in beekeeping? In Ukraine, beekeepers often use wormwood. The ancient doctor Avicenna called wormwood "a panacea for all diseases". Wormwood is considered a poisonous plant, but all medicines are also poisonous in a certain concentration. In Ukraine, beekeepers often use wormwood tincture for the prevention and treatment of nosematosis and varroa. Tincture of wormwood has a normalizing effect on the digestive system, metabolism, eliminates virtually all existing fungal and infectious diseases. Tincture of wormwood works well on varroa mite, but it does not give one hundred percent result. That why it is necessary to use additional means for the prevention and treatment of bees from varroa mites and nosematosis. Tincture of wormwood is added to the syrup at each feeding. Proportion: one tablespoon per one liter of syrup. For 50 colonies, we disperse 5-7 liters of wormwood tincture per year. Wormwood for tincture is harvested during the flowering period. It is dried and then cut into pieces. When cutting, wear a respirator because it produces a lot of dust. You can also buy wormwood in a pharmacy and make her tincture To make the tincture, you need a three-liter bank. At the bottom of the banks we pour a glass of dogrose (if there is no dogrose, you can do not use it). We use dogrose as a source of vitamin C. Then lay wormwood. It needs to be well punched. It is better to use wormwood of different ages in equal proportions. After the wormwood was laid pour vodka or moonshine to the top of the bank. On a three-liter bank we used two and a half liters of vodka. Cover the top of the bank with cellophane and cover with a lid to avoid evaporation. Wormwood insists about two weeks in a dark place. Thank you. Ask questions. Subscribe to our channel.
  3. Sorry, I did not think when translating the video that this word is vulgar, but I do not know how to change it to the correct one on the forum. I thought to take the word of "defecation" or "diarrhea"
  4. What do you do with manky, soured, moldy frames? Share your experience, please! For example, in Ukraine we do it next way. What to do with manky frames? What to do if honey is soured in frames? What to do with moldy frames? We will try to answer these questions. Here are the frames from the weak colonies, which were manky. These colonies remained alive, but they are very weak. They survived because there was an early flight this year. If the bees made a flight later, these colonies could die. These colonies were crapped because they were weak and ate more and overloaded their intestines. There is a lot of honey in such frames, but we cannot wash them well. We do not know why the colonies so badly wintered. Maybe they had diseases. Therefore we need to dispose of such frames. Also, you need to dispose of frames from the dead colonies of bees, if you do not know the reasons for their death. Honey from such frames can be cut and given to its cattle. Do not give such honey to bees. I am recycling such frames so. I lower the frame into a container of boiling water. Honey remains in the container, the wax floats up and we take it out. We cleaned and disinfected the frames so. Do not feel sorry for manky frames, they cannot be used further because losses during their use may be greater than the loss of recycled frames. If you are 100% sure that the colony did not die from a disease, but from cold or wear on the brood, then the frames from such colonies can be used further. Do not throw them away, but clean them from bees and use. What to do with moldy and soured frames? In the winter and spring, when the bees do not have the ability to fly and empty their intestines, sour honey cannot be given. And at other times such honey can be given to bees. Here is the honey frame. At the bottom of the frame is mold. How to remove mold? You cannot take it away. You can only slow down the molding process. Shake off honey from open cells and put frames dry on the sun and the wind and then sprinkle them with ashes like this. Put these frames separately from the good frames. You can put it in the unused hive. When the bees gain strength and the time will come to put new frames in the hive, take these frames, shake off the ash (you can do not wash them) and put in the colony. The bees will gnaw the damaged and dried places on the frame and they will build new cells. We need to apply such frames as quickly as possible because the wax moth will appear with the onset of heat and it will begin to eat parts of the frames that are without ashes. If we do not take measures to stop the process of molding the frames, they will rot completely. In the spring, after reducing the number of frames in the colonies, there will be good, low-honey frames without mold and traces of defecation. We can leave them without handling, because we will use them first when we will be increase the number of frames in the colony. The moth will not appear until the heat, in our locality the wax moth appears in May. Such frames can be placed in the center of the colony's nest. Bees will eat the remains of honey and prepare a frame for laying eggs by the queen. In the center of the nest of the colony you can also put frames full of honey. Bees will eat everything and this will stimulate them to work. Bees do not endure feeding frames in the center of the nest; they will prepare the frame for work as quickly as possible. Thats all. Thank you! Subscribe on our channel.
  5. Hello everyone!! I have made a new video abot swarming control. We used our observations and made up the stages of preparing the bees for swarming. What do you think about this control system? I hope my explanation was clear. Stages of swarmig GREEN PERIOD (no risk of swarming). 1. population increase. 2. drone production. 3. Appearance of cell Cups 4. Fatty Bees. Bees resting in clusters. Orange Period (great risk of swarming) 5. queen cells 6. reduced laying (smaller brood nest) 7. No brood (hive has not yet swarmed but could at any moment). Red Period 8. Hive has actually swarmed. If you want to be a good beekeeper you need to know stages of preparation of bee colony for swarming and how to control swarming at each stage. Swarming means breeding. Problems of Beekeeping are: 1) Development of colonies of bees – increasing in the mass (number) of bees in the colony; 2) Control of swarming – watching out that the colony of bees does not fly away. Old school of beekeeping prefers the natural reproduction of bee colonies and gives a swarm to fly out from the hive and then catch it. They believe that swarms work better. Yes, swarms work better, but they work better because bees did not work before swarming, they were saving their strength to fly away. This means that bees, that do not swarming, do more work, work better than bees that were swarming. In all cases, it is better that the bees do not swarming and get out from the hive because they can fly away at all. So the first spring flight of bees passed. After this, any bee colony begins to prepare for swarming because bees want to breed (swarming) always. They think, dream about it and strive for it. It's good that bees want to swarm (breed), but beekeeper must to control it, and prevent bees from flying out of the hive. 1. We marked the green the period that is safe from the fact that the bee colony will fly away. The green period includes 4 stages of preparing the colony of bees for swarming. After the first spring flight of bees the first stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming takes place. It is called: an increase the number of bees. The queen of bees lays eggs, but the number of bees is still small and the bee colony cannot fly away (swarming) in any way. 2. At the second stage drones appear in the bee colony. Drones appear quickly in strong families because someone has to fertilize the queen. This is necessary for the further successful breeding (and swarming) of bee colony. We need to maximally stretch this second period in time to fight with swarming. To do this, we put the frames in the colony, looking at the strength of the colony of bees. 3. Third stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming is the appearance of cell cups. You do not have to worry about it just note that in this colony came the third phase of the safe period (your bees will not fly away in the near future). 4. Your colony of bees grows, becomes stronger, you put frames with empty combs and see that there are grapes of bees on the side of frames, this bees do not work. There are a lot of job in the hive, but part of bees do not want to work. Bees begin to save energy in order to fly away. In Ukraine we call such bees as «Fatty bees». This is stage 4, but your bees are still not ready to fly away. This means that the safe period of preparation of bees for swarming has ended. And begins the orange period of increased danger that bees can fly away (swarm out). This period includes 3 stages of preparing the colony of bees for swarming. 5. If you during the inspection of the hive and the planned setting of frames with empty combs found swarm queen cells, then the fifth stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming in this hive had began. If you see swarm queen cells this means that the bees are preparing for swarming. Need to know, if you see queen cells of requeening by bees this means that the bees just want to change the queen – this is not a sign of swarming. Fistulous queen cells are not sign of swarming too. We know that new queen get out from cell after 16 days, we need to note this and begin to fight with this stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming. How will we do this? Simple. It is necessary to make splits using swarm queen cells. So we do not let the bees gain strength and develop so that they can fly away from us. Making splits, we are increasing number of the colonies in our apiary and fighting with swarming at the same time. 6. Now the bees develop further. You as a beekeeper help them. But at some moment, see that the Queen began to lay eggs less, at the same time, there are all that is needed in the hive, and you thought to put more frames or even a box in the hive. This means that the bees forced the queen not to lay eggs because queen must to lose weight for the future flight of the swarm (In fact, the Queen wants to lay her eggs, but bees do not give it.) This is the 6 stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming. It is called decrease in laying. What to do in this case? It is necessary to weaken the colony of bees, that is, need to return the colony to a green safe period of development of bees (for the second or third stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming). We need that the colony does not want to swarm to the main flow. And we must to control it. How to weaken a colony of bees? We take away from the colony frames with open and sealed brood and also if there are a lot of bees in the colony we can to take part of bees from this colony too. Brood we can sell or put in the splits or put in the other colonies. Taken bees we can shake off in the weak splits. Young bees will stay in the new hive, and part of the flying bees will fly back to its hive. That means that at the 6 stage of preparing the colony of bees for swarming we need to take away from the colony frames with brood and also to take part of bees from this colony too. So we spend the swarming control and know what happens in each hive and at what stage of development is each colony of bees. If you observe a decrease in the laying of eggs, the colony of bees will not develop and grow more. Using the above methods of fighting with swarming, we also do not give to the queen decrease in the laying of eggs. In nature, swarms are not big. When the colony of bees collects about four kilograms of bees, they can fly away from the hive. They know that such a mass of bees is enough for survival and they can fly away. The colony feels that there are enough bees in the colony and queen stops laying eggs because it is not rational to have a bigger colony for them We weaken the colony of bees because we need that the queen will return to the same rate of laying eggs. We have found out under what conditions the queen lays the maximum number of eggs. When there are from 6 to 14 frames in a colony of bees, then queen lays the maximum number of eggs. If the hive is up to six frames, queen lays eggs less because there are not enough bees to service the brood in the hive. If there are more than 14 frames in the hive, the queen decrease in the laying of eggs and the colony prepare to fly away. So when we fight with swarming and do not let it go by itself we breed bees, increase the number of colonies and increase the strength of colonies of bees at all apiary. We give to the queen the opportunity to work with one intensity, and the bees serve to the queen also in one pace. If we will not control the number of bees in the colony, there will be an overabundance of bees in the hive during main flow. Part of bees will not work and beekeeper will lose in the amount of honey and bees. 7. Last, the seventh stage of the orange period of increased danger that bees can fly away (swarm out), comes when there are no eggs (open brood) at all in the hive. There are a queen and swarming queen cells, but no open brood in the hive. Queen has stopped laying eggs. In this case we need to take urgent measures that the bees do not fly away from the hive. The first and foremost, we need to put in the hive frames with open brood because bees must have work while the queen starts laying eggs again (bees will not leave open brood and will not fly away). The second, it is necessary to apply such measures as in the sixth stage. It helps to stop process of swarming. Also in this case, if you see that the bees can fly away at any moment today, you can apply the method of emergency prevent swarming “Castling”. About this method watch in our video here . 8. This is all stages of preparing the colony of bees for swarming. The orange period of increased danger that bees will fly away ended. And the last eighth stage, shown as red line, swarm is flying out from the hive. In this stage we cannot do anything, except catching the swarm. If your bees had fly out, you missed how the bees in the colony did not work, the swarming queen cells were made, and the queen has stopped laying eggs. The description of the swarming control is complete now. I want to add one more thing. Many people think that during the main flow the bees do not swarming. No, they are swarming, but less. It depends on the breed. That why we need to continue to control the whole process of preparing bees for swarming in hives during main flow too. If we want that the colony of bees will work at full strength during the main flow, it is necessary to keep the bees on stage 3-4 of the safe green period of preparation of the colony for swarming, until the beginning of the main flow. If the bees did not enter the orange period of increased danger that bees can fly away before the beginning of the main flow (it means that bees did not think about swarming), they will be maximally productive during main flow.
  6. How do you keep frames with empty combs? How to save the frame from the wax moth? In Ukraine we do it like that Here is how we keep frames with empty combs. This method is environmentally friendly, does not require a lot of money and safe for bees and people. This method helps to kick away the wax moth and other pests. In most cases mice do not touch the frame with this substance. As fast as possible after extraction we need to sprinkle frames with empty combs with ASH. Yes we use ash, wood ash from a stove or a bonfire or ash from straw. You need to sprinkle frames with empty combs with ash in the respirator. We take frames and sprinkle ash on frames from both sides how could you see in this video. Ash is an alkali. Wax moth does not like alkali. Ash clogs the pest's airways and the wax moth will die. Also mice do not like the smell and taste of ash. When we need to put a frame with empty combs in the colony of bees we must to shake off the ash well from both sides of the frame and rinse the frame with water. Then put the wet frames in the hive. Bees occupy such frames quickly. Bees will clean the frame. Bees are thrown ash residue to the bottom of the hive. We need to clean the bottom of the hive after that because bees should easily move on the bottom of the hive when they need. Also during the cleaning bees are smeared with ashes. In such way ash helps fight with varroa mite because varroa mite does not like ash too. There is a small amount of ash in frames and ash is wet, that why bee`s airways do not clog. There is no danger to bees. We use this method about 4 years. We know for sure, 100 % that frames with empty combs will be clean and remain intact after using this method. Such frames bees occupy fast and there are no negative consequences for bees. Before, we used sulfur for keeping frames with empty combs. Sulfur did not give a hundred percent result that the frames remain intact. Frames with sulfur bees were occupied worse, that led to swarming. Sulfur is not an environmentally friendly substance. Also I did not use poisons for saving frames. Such poisons are not an environmentally friendly substance. How did I discover this method? One day there was no place for part of the frames with empty combs in the storage. I put them in the workroom, where I often used angular grinding machine. There was a lot of dust in the work room. I forgot about the frames for two years. When I found them, the frames were not damaged at all. Frames were in dust. Then I realized that the wax moth is afraid of dust. Ash is dust. From that time I began to sprinkle the frames with ash. That's all, thank you, subscribe to our channel!
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