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Everything posted by Tomm

  1. Ive a bit of a problem.On the Ak beekeeping site under" notices" I saw a method of swarm prevention.As I had a large number of bees I thought I would follow that method,First problem, I couldn't find the queen.Anyway I thought I would go ahead with the two hives as at least one would have a queen.I was able to buy a mated queen ( Don't think she was very good at all.When I set her down on the frames no bees clustered around her as has happened at other times.She seemed very small also and she and her workers were not moving much..How did I know which hive to put her in u ask? well On each brood box I sat another box with drawn out frames.One hr later one of the top box was still empty whilst the other box on the other hive had bees everywhere and the bees were out gathering goods.So I chose the box with no action to put the queen in..I will wait 3 days? and see if new queen out of cage(not very hopeful) or should I wait a week and try another queen..or wait for them to produce their own??
  2. Some of my honey is very, coursely crystallised.. I mixed in about 1 tablespoon of a finer honey and stirred and stirred.. Still the same.
  3. Of my 2 hives one is doing well. Quite a lot of brood and Bees doing well. Other not so good. Hive was very damp inside. Not sloping to entrance and so very wet inside.. Many frames look moldy and green and not much honey left. I cleaned and dried base and replaced about 4 of the frames with full honey frames.. Didn't see any brood. What do you think I should do next? New queen?
  4. Thanks.. Nothing to worry about then... However I have received warnings of AFB within 3 km of my 3 apiaries.. That's more of a worry!! With that news I'll be pretty lucky to escape??? ! Anything I should be doing??
  5. Been away 2 days .Over winter bees have been very low key as expected..But when I returned today there is much activity around both of my hives.One hive has a group ( about 2 fist full) clustered the other has about 40 bees flying around outside entrance.Only thing I can think is the very nice ..warm weather is getting the bees out and about. But havnt seen this before during winter--what do others think??
  6. Last season nearly all my honey stayed the same colour as when I packed it. ( light gold to similar to golden syrup ) this seasons lots different , many jars have changed into the colour of clover honey and have thickened up also.. And some have granulated... Is this usual? Didn't happen last year. I prefer the clover type!!
  7. Do I just put the wets back on top.?do the Bees just enter the bottom brood boxes and eat the honey from the box I have placed on top? Should I close opening down at all? They still seem to be foraging a lot.. Will they stop foraging and just clean out the wets? Does it usually take long to clean the wets?.. Also thanks for the 2 replies..
  8. I've removed supers and queen excluders from hives. Consequently I've ended up with about 15 frames of honey which I've scraped off. I kept 5 spare frames in case Bees need it in winter. There is still many frames of honey in the remaining brood boxes. Do I place another box with the wets back on top until the Bees have eaten the honey? Or what? I can imagine if I store them they will be covered with ants.. Please suggestions??!
  9. Tomm


    Was for me when due to ill health I couldn't check hives for 6 weeks.. I lost 2 hives.
  10. In November I removed Veroa treatment from my hives. I had used APISTAN I'm about to treat again. I should use a different treatment now to stop Bees becoming used to it,i understand. So what brand/treatment would you suggest?
  11. Hive is Queenless but 10 days ago saw queen cell with egg. If I wait another 10days will there be a chance I may have a mated queen.? . Only has about 2 frames of Bees and no brood. Has 2 brood box and 1 honey super.. OK if on a warm day I remove super and queen excluder.? Making sure I have 8 frames honey (Which I have) what chance do you give me of lasting the winter or should I get a nuc/queen in spring?
  12. From my 2 destroyed by wax moth hives I have saved about 6 frames.. They are fully built up with foundation.. Can I use these frames? They look OK except they have small bits of debris round about. I will put them in freezer in case there are any eggs in them?
  13. I lost 2 hives to wax moth.. Being unable to check them for about 6 weeks.
  14. Thanks everyone.. Yes I know what you mean about the different colors /flavors when u take the honey at different times. I guess I'm looking for the easiest way to manage them.
  15. In the past I have harvested my honey quite a few times over the season.... Any reason why I can't do a single harvest in say... Early March? Of course I realise I will need to put on quite a few supers.. Another advantage would be I could get by with less Tutin testing too. I suppose this is what most bee keepers do?
  16. I placed a hive in a heavily manuka populated area in East Auckland. The honey when bottled Is pretty thick (unlike my other hives where the honey is pretty liquid and light to medium in colour ) the honey is thick as I mentioned and only just spreads its a light brown in colour. All my other honey (different area) over the last 2 yrs that I have been bee keeping has been very /pretty runny.
  17. Thanks everyone, guess I'll make up a nuc. Haven't done that yet!!
  18. I checked my hive yesterday and found bad infestation of Wax moth.Never had it before but lots of droppings and bee cocoons about 14 and wrecked comb ( frames are all plastic) Couldn't find queen. Found some capped and a little uncapped brood...only drones.(Drone layer)If I put in a new mated queen would the hive revive, without starting from scratch..There are about 3 frames of honey in the Super.
  19. HiHi, That's a good idea.U could make it a small ( or large) business..At $600 its not a small undertaking though.Is that ok for 1 or 2 years?
  20. Someone commented earlier that with all the hoops that need jumping thru.. It's maybe easier to get some labels printed and just sell it.. Try a tablespoon first ( to test for Tutin ) with our slack Justice system the most you'll get is a month's home detention if it ever comes to that.. Look at all the people selling food on Facebook.. Amazing!
  21. This is my second attempt to post this so here goes. Doesn't take long as a beekeeper before one gets inundated with honey. I'm running out of people to give it away to.. I looked into selling it but with all the regulations it is pretty expensive.. However I have seen registered commercial kitchens in Auckland for hire at $22 /Hr. I thought if 4 beekeepers got together it would work out reasonably cheap.. Not sure if it would be OK to just pack it at the kitchen, or legally if the frames would need to be stripped also at the kitchen.. But I thought that splitting the costs 4 ways would be quite cheap.. I know that labeling is also required but the kitchen costs are theain costs.. What do others think?
  22. If a 2 brood box hive is Full of brood and honey Will the excess of honey be moved to a new Super placed on top (with queen excluder placed between) to give space for more eggs?
  23. As I only have a few hives I collect my honey by scraping the honey/wax into a bucket with a strainer.I end up with lots of wax but it still contains quite a lot of honey.I did try washing the remaining wax to remove the honey but lots of the wax melts and I lose a lot and still end up with quite a bit of honey still in the wax.What should I do to end up with clean wax? It seems a waste to dump it each time. ( I collected my first lot of honey today from one super) Really is satisfying keeping bees!
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