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Lawrence Smith

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About Lawrence Smith

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  1. Two swarms or one?

    Thanks Rob, that was always a question I had, it's the old queen that has left not newly hatched one(s)? In which case, this swarm might have just split and needs combining into a single box? I'll fully inspect the hive in the weekend and see what's happening.
  2. Two swarms or one?

    Ah right, yes that makes sense regarding the frames. They were empty frames from the same box, but still, good point. Thanks!
  3. Two swarms or one?

    I dropped a couple of drawn frames in each Nuc, so that should help speed things up. But I guess the question is, assuming that this is a single swarm from one hive, does the fact it split mean there might be two queens? I did consider dropping them all into a single box, but thought two Nucs gave me more options ...
  4. Two swarms or one?

    Hi All Got a call at lunch that one of my hives had swarmed, so home I went to collect it. Must have missed a swarm cell 10 days ago, ######! Anyway, it had formed into two balls. Wrangled them into two separate Nucs, as I was unsure if there were two queens or one (didn’t see a queen). Letting them settle down in before I take a closer look. But, is this likely to be two queens, or simply one swarm that has split for some reason? Cheers Lawrence
  5. NZBF Moved hives a few metres/flying bees

    I've found it varies on the hive. Most of my hives I can generally move 4 - 5 m easily, by closing them for a day (they have ventilated bases) and then obstructing the entrance with a branch or similar to force them to reorient. Had to do this for some earthworks near them. But I have one hive that won't. It's 1m a day or nothing. Basically lost a lot of bees discovering that.
  6. NZBF Hive Doctor Bottom Board.

    That's interesting with the tape, I have some of both models and hadn't noticed that, I'll look! I like the new bases, and like Trev just keep one entrance open, seems plenty for them. Also figured out if you have some spare corflute you can relatively easily slip it into the slots underneath. If I had one complaint, it would be that it's a little trickier to center the hive straps. On the old bases the slot was a lot larger and you could wriggle the strap and it would fall into place. On the new one there are just two small ribs to center the strap. but that's a minor niggle.
  7. PMS Strategy?

    That's good advice and sounds logical to me. Thanks.
  8. PMS Strategy?

    Yep, lesson learned. I think you are right. To be honest, I was probably less vigilant about this hive, as it lost the queen mid summer and so had a broken brood cycle, which I understood might help break (or slow) the Varroa cycle as well. And then I probably got treatment in a little late. So yep, need to keep a closer eye on mite buildups. There seems to be many differing opinions around monitoring mite levels, do people like the sugar shake, or ...? Appreciate the feedback.
  9. PMS Strategy?

    Yes, interesting, but maybe red wine rather than chocolate! I'd say I did see 3 or 4 bees with what could be DWV, but then, the brood affected was in the bottom (colder?) with a lower population as the queen and all new brood was in upper box. And yes, we're in Canterbury and it's been cold. What I then did is swap the boxes, so I took the queen and brood down, dropped in an excluder, and moved honey up, as the bottom box was not overly full. Maybe that will also help with the clustering, with things not being so far spread out?
  10. PMS Strategy?

    Thanks Ted, there are around 4 healthy looking frames of brood in the second box, so hopefully that is enough. Appreciate the reply.
  11. PMS Strategy?

    Loos like a missed recognising varroa levels in one of my hives and on a quick inspection today I noticed a number of dead, fully developed bees in the cells in one of the brood boxes. Initial thought was AFB, but pulled a number of cells and there were no dead larvae and no ropiness. So, it looks like PMS to me. The second brood box was far healthier, possibly because the Bayvarol is kicking in (?) (added 3.5 weeks ago) - 8 strips - 4 per brood box. My question is, have a dodged a bullet here maybe and is there anything else I might be able to do to help them through? Obviously better Varroa recognition next time ... cheers Lawrence
  12. Apiweb is not fit for purpose

    Ha, also just tried to update it, just crazy! Given my day job is web application development, this shouldn't be that hard. Online DECA returns, the lot ... I think enough people just need to complain, an application like this in 2017 is unforgivable.
  13. NZBF Worn Out Queen?

    Hi Aquila, this hive had bad Varoa when I purchased in it May. We treated it over winter with it removed a few weeks ago. The hive went from being quite weak, to very strong. Its interesting, we had 3 queen cells 4 week ago, so I split the hive. But in hindsight I wonder if they knew the queen was in trouble ... Not going to jump to conclusions, learnt my lesson last week (!) but there's been no capped brood now for maybe 3 weeks, so in a week I might need to take some action ...
  14. NZBF Worn Out Queen?

    A week or so ago I believed my queen had died in one of my hives. Limited brood, no larva, no eggs. I bought a virgin queen, but on introduction I discovered eggs, so abandoned that process and placed her elsewhere. 5 days later there are some eggs, some larva, no capped brood at all; in a hive that is around a year old. It’s been suggested that maybe the hive was attacked by wasps, thus the lack of brood etc, but it seems to me that possibly I have a queen issue. She is laying, but they are not making it (currently) even to being capped. I’ll leave it another week and see if there is any capped brood now I see fresh eggs. My sense is there won’t be, but I’ll keep an open mind! I’m wondering if it’s time for her to be replaced …? Cheers Lawrence
  15. NZBF Queenless Hive

    Deleted? Did someone disagree with my method? I do agree, it's probably a little unconventional ...