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Everything posted by tristan

  1. i think hes referring to the 4 queen cups in the pics. check they are not laid. there may be more hiding. unfortunately with such bad comb it makes it difficult to check for swarm cells. one of the many reasons you really want to make sure you have good foundation and its drawn out well. they will draw them out better in the top box than the bottom box.
  2. not uncommon to see up to 800c on a lot of diesels. 700c is safe. i would fit a ball spring boost controller (mbc) to the waste gate and set it at 20 psi, see what max egt is, then lower boost until it starts getting up towards 700c. i suspect probably around 16-17 psi is probably good. but i can't remember the max boost recommended for those turbo's. to high and it just increases back pressure to much, and the efficiency goes bad so your not really gaining any extra airflow. but keep in mind the resistor mods increase overall fueling, not the on boost fueling. so you can result in too much fuel in no/low boost situations and not enough in high boost situations. diesels don't blow head gaskets. increase in boost is not a big deal as many petrol heads think (diesels tend to be opposite to petrol's). its not until you push the turbo out of its efficient operating range that you get trouble. heads cracking is typically from overheating due to old stuffed radiators or failed fans. the early ones are not intercooled so a little bit quicker to overheat the heads than the intercooled version.
  3. correction on that. they are still there and have bounced back so well you cannot tell that they had ever lost any bees other than they are not building up as fast as other hives. my thoughts are that the issue has been hidden due to hives being fed (so lack of pollen and nectar coming in is not reducing brood laying) and especially strong hives running lots of brood, hives recover a bit before we get back. combine that with the orchard being looked after by different staff members things get missed. especially if it just looks like a slow hives which is not uncommon in turbulent spring. i hope i will get to talk to some of the orchard owners/staff, especially some that are highly regarded in the avo scene. however extraction has kicked off already and things are rather busy.
  4. excellent. tho with such cold temps you could drop the boost a bit and take some load off the engine. those turbo's usually don't like running at high boost. assuming EGT probe is in a good place, 700c is fine.
  5. its a double hive so typically they produce double the honey as a single. the only real difference between a double hive and 2 singles is you use one less base and lid. if your quick enough you can put on one box at a time and that reduces the chance of ending up with less drawn out frames. but its also easy to get caught out and not have enough boxes on, or harvast honey quick enough to stop it becoming a massive hive you need a step ladder to get to.
  6. is it intercooled? odds are it will rust out well before it ever wears out. in dry climates thats less of an issue.
  7. yes. looks like a swarm in the air for a few minutes then they pour back into the hive.
  8. a fair bit of karaka poisoning happening at the moment.
  9. i havn't done this method but do know someone who does. however they don't do it for swarm control. IMHO your better off doing other swarm control measures and leaving splitting as a last resort. one of the issues with top split is that it now gets in the way for doing regular work. by mem the guys used to have new queen on top but i think they remove the top split fairly quickly anyway. however old queen up top is probably better so you can still work that without disrupting the new queen below. i've actually overwinter a double queen hive at home here. we don't have the same winter issues. they build up very well and its surprising the bees don't actually use the top entrance at all. now they are split apart for the rest of the season.
  10. had one the other day. saw the bees doing there swarm dance and when it settled down came across a swarm on the ground. put it in a box, trapped the queen in but all the bees went home. found the in the grass, queen was old and the short flight probably stuffed her.
  11. semi commercial possible, commercial no chance. you end up with a lot of dead hives and stuffed gear. even with semi's, typically once the drive has gone out of it, people tend to leave them to rot. once your on that downward slope its really difficult to climb back up. someone on here did it well. sold the hives while he could and then wait until conditions improve. clean exit, able to store gear well, then easy to get back into again later on. o some of that magic pixie dust. got a spare box of that next to the can of unicorn farts.
  12. there is official inspectors who do exactly that. they used to check my honey at the market every year. and yes many beekeepers do actually check whats on the shelves in stores so they catch those who break the rules which damages our industry. we need customers who have confidence in what they are buying and every time something happens the industry tends to get hit with more regulation and more complacence cost. so all beekeepers have a vested interest in making sure everyone's product is above board.
  13. it is pasteurisation. high CFU count can mean it needs to go through heat treatment. afaik the honey is heated up quickly then cooled down quickly aka flash heating. the principle here is the short length of time keeps the damage to the honey to a minimum. the other thing to keep in mind afaik with moisture removal is MGO decreases as you loose some of it with the water thats taken out.
  14. new is probably not the correct term, it hasn't been all that common. however now we have far more people who take honey off wet so they can move hives to the next flow, and then get their honey dried and heat treated (for CFU's). i would be interested to see what setup you have. i have seen some that don;t require high heat. have toyed with the idea on putting something in the extraction plant so its dried if required before its drummed especially has the honey is still warm.
  15. and there is a lot more disasters happening out there than you realize. the other thing is its extremely difficult to get people out of bad habits later on. on of the difficult things about it is people can be doing bad practises for decades and they in turn teach everyone to do it, but it bites someone in the rear at some point. but they keep on teaching others to do the bad thing which got someone in the crap. people need to do it right, from day one.
  16. heat treated aka flash heating. also can be combined with moisture removal. the moisture removal is the new thing.
  17. could be it got wet. condensation, rain blow in etc. we used to put a bit of water with it to start them off.
  18. not an issue if the honey is left on all the time. ran hives like for years when honey price was rock bottom. feed dry sugar and they will consume all the honey before touching the sugar and when flow turns on they ignore the dry sugar. treatment works fine with two boxes. after all there is tons of people who run double supers. the only problems arise is when the hive is very very weak and there is ways around that.
  19. easy enough to do in small scale, it gets difficult in large scale, and unless frames are marked you have no idea even if they did keep them in order. they could very easily say "sure no problem thats $ extra" and extract as per normal and you have no way to know if they did it or not. all it takes is broken frames and it all gets out of order and i usually deal with piles of broken frames. even for our medium setup it has something like 10-12 boxes worth in the machines at a time. the way i've seen it done is they mark all frames and boxes, so you can easily see which frames go with which box.
  20. that doesn't mean they won't have AFB tomorrow. thats the catch. it doesn't matter how good you are, as its the guys down the road that usually start the problem. however your practises can change it from a small problem to a big self inflicted problem. as i mentioned before i don't think thats quite true. its actually quite hard to infect a hive but feeding honey is an excellent way of doing it. as jamo mentions the years ahead are going to be interesting to say the least.
  21. if beeks keep short cutting things to much they made need one of those radiation units from oz to sterilize all the boxes. if hives get dumped and you start getting mite bombs, then afb can hide in the background and get a foothold.
  22. absolutely true. what i'm getting at is light infections do not always show symptoms so they are easily missed and that bees can clean up light infections. where as if you give them frames of honey the odds of infection go way up even with a light infection. the catch is inspections doesn't always find the light (or sub clinical) infections. so even with proper inspection you can be missing hives with afb. inspections are never fool proof as you mention with the example of missed infected box. traceability certainly helps but thats a big cost and usually only done if beek has a major afb problem.
  23. i've had afb hives that have almost gotten to the point of being robbed out. i've heard of guys who lost large numbers of hive due to afb (which is where we got the afb from) so i'm sure there is people around who have seen it. quite possibly the AP2's that have been involved in some of the AFB write ups in the bee mag (eg 80% of a beek hives infected). so no the cure is certainly cheaper than the disease.
  24. https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/farming-forestry/beekeeping/listing-2348286347.htm @AFB PMP Management Agency
  25. feel free to ask @AFB PMP Management Agency their thoughts on it. its a bad practise because its easy to slip up and cause a massive problem. reusing wet honey boxes imho is a lesser risk. thats down to quantity of honey left in it. its very easy for bees to clean those boxes up and consume everything, and not feed it to the young which is where the afb infection takes place. thats with low level afb which may not have any symptoms, which is the most likely case of you missing it during inspection.. with high levels then the risk is the same. if you need to feed honey, the easy way (which we did when honey dropped to $2/kg) is to simply leave it on the hive. that way your not spreading anything.
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