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tristan

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Everything posted by tristan

  1. 2" flexible impeller with speed control would do the job nicely. 2" Flexible Impeller Pump Complete - Variable Speed - Ceracell WWW.CERACELL.CO.NZ Welcome to New Zealand's largest range of beekeeping supplies ranging from hive components, tools and accessories, beekeeping books and protective bee clothing. Lega G120 Pump V.Speed 2" 5000kg/Hr • Ecrotek WWW.ECROTEK.CO.NZ
  2. the old brass gear pumps are great for warm honey. retired ours as was to worn to keep up. one of the problems is the honey corrodes the brass. progressive cavity? if so ours has been very good. nothing replaced with years of use. but you can't run them dry and they do not like pumping water. also have a mesh before it to stop big stuff going through it. flexible impeller pumps are the ones that tend to fail. broken bit of frames rip the impellers up. better to tear one of those than to break a gear pump or progressive cavity pump. we have a flexible impeller pump on each extractor to a tub. then progressive cavity for the heat exchange into the spin float. then progressive cavity into the tank. flexible impeller into the drums. however some of thats getting changed soon.
  3. honey frames, eat it or burn it. the problem here is trying to work exactly what killed the hive. can you take some pics of the brood frames please. what was the mite treatments? when was it looked at last before the lockdown? what was the brood like then?
  4. what sort of volume do you need to pump and how high does it need to go? generally flexible impeller pumps are the cheapest.
  5. for the odd afb hive that shows up, just burn asap. hives are not usually in quarantine but those hives generally don't get moved or if they have to be, they don't get mixed with others. its usually easy enough to store the gear off that site separately. however when its a lot of hives, then it quarantined to the site. the gear that comes off the site goes back on it. i've had it where 3 years later its poped back up.
  6. the problem is its a very inefficient way to run beehives. its horrendously time consuming to run hives spread out like that. a lot of the early players have gone away from it or run at least 2 hives per house. i think one of the ones mentioned only do it in a very small area and charge extra for outside that area.
  7. that recall has been in effect for quite some time. just going by the pic, it kinda looks like the exact same issue. edit: its not the same issue. the bunnings ones break where the draw bar bolts onto the trailer chassis instead of the coupling end.
  8. yeah, thats something that really needs to change. sure its not actually hard to make a tow bar, but modern vehicles have special means of mounting tow bars and often have computerised systems that need to be interfaced with to connect trailer lights. its not just about lights, its about the traction control, stability systems. the system needs to know there is a trailer hooked up and the vehicle will handle differently. some now have built in trailer control. i've seen it on some utes where the mouting points where not used properly and it caused the chassis to break. the old days of weld up a tow bar and wire up the lights are almost over. the law just hasn't caught up with modern times.
  9. the only sign off is you take it for a wof. anyone can do the same. and you can do it with tow bars as well. there is some real manky tow bars being sold. unfortunately towing laws are really poor and largely not enforced anyway. why is why we have such a culture of overloading and misuse. plus no one wants to change as they make money out of it. sadly nothing will change until a trailer comes off and wipes out a van/bus load of people.
  10. no rust on it. its in perfect condition. of coarse that tiny bit of surface rust caused by the crack. nah. just bad design. there should have been a vertical bit of steel under that to strengthen it on the vertical plane. just cost cutting by the manufacture. scary thing is i've seen the same design on much bigger trailers.
  11. yes, its probably been cracked for a while. absolute dumb luck it broke on a right hand bend not a left hand bend. they did nothing wrong, it wasn't overloaded etc. just a bad design by a professional manufacture.
  12. it didn't break on a weld, thats the steel bar broken in half.
  13. thats the locals at the beach entertainment. watch all the townies stuff it up.
  14. correct. no. draw bars flex due to the vibrations created by driving over the road surface (a person weight or winch is nothing). the trailer springs are short and stiff, combined with lack of shock absorbers, doesn't help the situation. its the 1000's of minute flexs every hour of driving that does it. just like flexing a bit of sheet metal in your hands untill it breaks.
  15. to add: apparently the cops where saying there was a crash 100m away from that spot last week or so. a person towing a boat to fast, jumped on the brakes and jack knifed it. put it into the power pole and set the grass alight. obviously didn't have brakes on the trailer. thats one of the issues today. its very easy to tow at high speeds with most utes these days. utes have really good brakes, traction control, abs, stability control etc. they can stop really well, but the trailer can't. 99.9% of trailers have 1970's era brakes or worse.
  16. as murphy is never far behind........ the old boys where going to go out for a fish this morning, drove over the bridge and the trailer decided to depart and smack into a power pole. the cause, poor design. no vertical bit under the tongue and safety chain was bolted to the tongue not the chassis. this is a manufactured trailer not a home built or custom build. i've seen plenty with this exact same design, including one of the bee truck crashes. the manufacture saved $5 in manufacturing costs and this is the result. they came and got the bee trailer to put the boat on, a trailer which has seen far more work and hours than the boat trailer. boat is a write off. the impact destroyed a lot of the things inside. thank goodness it went off road and not across the road into traffic.
  17. sounds like a strange story. most trailer suspension you can't fit the springs in upside down due to the curve. the axle will sit on the chassis and the other end of the spring will be poking down (probably into the ground) and be unsecured. unless someone used flat springs that a few utes used. which have a habit of being bent the wrong way at the best of times and would be way under sized. also you should not be breaking stub axles, tires should give out well before stub axles break. unless it was actually way heavier that you allowed for. (or using those cheap Chinese stub axles which got recalled in the end). there are trailers around that have no suspension at all and they can work fine.
  18. its been broken for quite some time. you don't break all of the leafs in a pack at once. the years of overloading and abuse broke it a long time ago and its just dumb luck that it failed in an easy manner and in a easy location. one of the issues is many trailer manufactures simply make a 3.5 ton trailer and sell it as a 2.5 ton, as they know people are idiots. some even make advertise that they can overload their trailers. but you still have the same problem, your 2.5 ton load is actually 3.5 ton. which means you will simply put 4 ton+ on it and end up in the same situation. also many utes can only use a 3.5 ton trailer legally if the ute carries nothing. which no beekeeper will ever do. so you will be over GCM. untill you learn to manage the job properly, nothing changes and you just roll the dice.
  19. typical. don't give a crap about yourself let alone anyone else. well known issue, well known predicable result, still do it anyway. worry about after it happens. then do it all over again. how long before it fails again and flicks the trailer out and hits your mates/family coming the other way. locally i've seen 3 out of 4 springs snapped in half, draw bars snapped off, tires all blown out. trailers on the side of the road every summer usually missing a hub and wheel. what is it with kiwis and trailers, hook up a trailer and leave their brains behind.
  20. you can't buy someones life back after the trailer smacks into them or throws you off the road.
  21. ouch. lucky it wasn't much worse. but thats what constant overloading does. fatigue cracks in the centre of the springs. probably a safe bet that the other springs are all cracked to. tho not the worse i've seen.
  22. i'll bet you will be back burning more next year and the next. burning the boxes was an excellent move but i think its delaying the enviable.
  23. i know some of it is certainly produced here. we trailed it a bit, but the crowd we dealt with was a bunch of rip offs so we never went further with it.
  24. yes, that makes it tricky. those electric/air over hydraulic units get pretty pricey. btw that UK one i mentioned is 3.5 ton with breakaway system. thats why i would like to be able to get USA couplings here as they have the same setup. spring and absorber inertia braking with breakaway system.
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