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Everything posted by tristan

  1. nothing is going stay a single box. its probably gets swapped for a nuc at every visit. thats about the only way to keep a hive that small. probably the beeks nuc raising operation. seen that done with pollination hives
  2. a lot of the urban sprawl into rural areas is lifestyle blocks and the amount of hives has increased massively as everyone has become a beekeeper to write off their tax to the "farm".
  3. that sort of stuff is just normal replacement stuff. nothing exciting. only new toys we have gotten is a deboxer. plenty of other things i would like but the $$ are not there.
  4. you would learn quite a lot. even for experienced beeks it can fill in the gaps, all the stuff you don't normally do.
  5. trouble is AFB can look like PMS at times. AFB in its early stages can look like a lot of things. plus it kinda looks like mite debris in many of the cells in the pic. personally i would not call it AFB, but mark it for checking later on. with AP2 don't they lab test samples from the hives before burning ?? i know of guys who had hives that have been marked AFB by ap2's, yet they never found anything themselves and the hive never got symptoms or died.
  6. unless i've missed something, you may have killed a non-afb hive.
  7. what part of that in particular? not uncommon to use aluminum tanks as you can make them fit your needs. fuel tanks can leave a bit to be desired. often don't have good baffles. have fuel sized fittings which are to small for syrup. pumps need to be suitable for thick syrup. fuel is really easy to pump, syrup is a major pain.
  8. one thing i dislike is many tanks do not have baffles. i looked at baffle balls but it was $$$$$. plus i like the tanks to be low which really reduces the roll.
  9. i'll add a bit here. keep to standard gear. makes it easier to get and deal with. odd size boxes or frames just complicates things for no real reason. wooden frames, especially wired frames, will require a bit of extra gear and know how. plastic will get you going straight away.
  10. ok, your looking at this back to front. a good beehive will produce a lot of honey, so to produce a small amount you need a bad crappy beehive which is most certainly something you do not want. no beekeeper wants bad hives. you should always have a beehive is good condition and the byproduct of that is a lot of honey. besides your friends will always be eager for free honey should you have to much. so please get rid of this idea that you only want a small amount. bees simply do not work that way. standard 10 frame 3/4 boxes will work fine. two hives as it pays to be able to use one to fix up the other. i would use bee escapes. boxes there is plenty of discussion on here about the different ones.
  11. wooden frames with inserts will still break like any other wooden frame. part of that is the wood, how well its been machined and then assembled. most of the time its assembly issues. having the wax blow out is either extractor issue or weak frame wiring. if the wires are slack the wax will get torn off. but still its only a minor nuisance to the extractor. having frames break can be a big problem. having said that plastic do also break, just not as often. your not going to keep just the wooden in the brood boxes. damage, age and frame rotation will see to that. plastic frames wax them very well. i think someone offered a light coating of wax which i think is poor economy as thats where most of the bad drawing out problems are. its probably more of a disservice.
  12. a few months back the lads where off to a site and where listening to the james Hetfield and joe rogan pod cast on the way there. joe: "so what do you like to do?" james: " i keep bees and do welding" the lads crack up laughing. "who do we know thats a bee keeper, Metallica fan and won't shut up about welding ???......TRISTAN ! ! ! " 🤘 🤘 😎
  13. see those shiny head ones also have black tail and no stripping. thats CBPV.
  14. the carbon goes from being in the air to in the soil, which is the whole aim. you can't get rid of the carbon, you can only change where it is stored.
  15. nope. simply failed queen and most likely brood dieing off due to lack of bees. notice the odd drone cell. wrong color for sacbrood or pms.
  16. chilly. mind you even in the winterless north here it was just under 3c this morning.
  17. you will have had it or get it at some stage. not really contagious as such, at least not in a fatal way. plenty of hives will have infected bees and still go onto be good hives. i see it fairly often. only ever had a few hives that have got it really badly to the point the hive declines and dies. however keep in mind its probably not the only virus effecting the bees. odds are they have had mite issues which allows everything to get going.
  18. dry raw sugar. keeps fine for years or until mice chew their way in. raw syrup typically in IBC or the bags in the round container (can't think of the name at the mo). IBC can go off but the bags keep for year easy enough. raw sugar syrup thats been open to the air tends to go off quickly. white sugar syrup doesn't go off very quickly at all. we have a big tank (20000 liter ??). IBC's etc all stored inside. all long its keep depends on how much gets used. some will sit around for a year. some will go out as fast as we can get it. all syrup is thick syrup and its then watered down to suit what ever the need is.
  19. local one is pretty good, but some around are horrible.
  20. i'm much the same. however if you get a coffee that tastes like its burnt, bit of honey in it takes that taste away.
  21. how old is the pricker? the early ones have back to front cam plates which waste a fair bit of air. even if you have the later ones i would look at improving it to save air. it will make a big difference to your power system. compressed air is highly inefficient and wastes huge amounts of power. if your restricted on power then its very worth while to optimize the compressed air. i guess you do not have an heat exchanger. that might be an issue with the filter or spin float. it will have to run slow. thick sticky honey does not like to separate from the wax. i typically have 34c as my minimum temp. with really sticky honey it needs to go up. i would not bother running anything through the sieve. run it all through the filter, then put the wax from that (which has a fair bit of honey with it) into your cappings bags with any big stuff. most beeks i know would not be happy with using cappings bags. they like the wax to be dry as possible. the other issue is how the cappings bags handle crystalline honey. but if it works fine for you.
  22. what are you using to deal with the scrapings, bridging etc? realistically, both spin float and filter still use a wax press to deal with the big bulky wax. even with just pricking you still have big stuff that needs dealing with. so a small wax press is the first thing.how big depends on if you are decapping or just pricking. for pricking only setup, the wax press is used very little so not much power usage. for a low power situation, a self cleaning filter would be the best. simply due to the small motor size it has (i think its 250 watts ?? plus 300 watt for the heater ). spin floats have substantially larger motors. i'm not sure what is on the non-wax cutting type spin floats (which is the best spin float for small setups). one issue ,might be if the speed controllers will run off your inverter power. what pricker are you running? manual or semi? the semi's usually use compressed air. making sure you have an efficient compressed air setup will save a lot of power.
  23. i'm wondering what YEAR that video was done in. they seam to be a bit out of date.
  24. i think its fixed screen and moving blades. sometimes you see the pressure bounce as the blade goes past the inlet. pressure wise, i typically run it at a few psi and most of that is caused by the pipe setup ie the pressure is to pump the honey up the outlet rather than through the screen. it doesn't need pressure at all to work. in fact i find that pressure can have an opposite effect. i think the wax gets pushed into the screen to much which creates a blockage. with low pressure the wax just floats away from the screen. i was running the pump slow today and it was at sub 1 psi for most of the day. at full pump speed i think i hit about 3 psi. usually i only need 10 -15 psi to push jammed up wax out. if i left it way to long, the wax has dried out and doesn't want to go out. i can close the honey outlet valve and the back pressure pushes the wax up and out. one thing i had forgotten about is that the old spin float is basically gravity fed, the honey just drops into it and the self cleaning filter is pressure fed. there is a small issue when you need to reverse the pump. not a problem with the spin float but with the filter it sucks back all the wax thats collected in it. that can cause blockages in the heat exchanger. why reverse the pump? thats to stop heat soak into the honey and over heat it when the pump is stopped. also if its stopped for a long time the wax in honey floats to the top and can create a bung which can block up the heat exchanger. to be able to reverse the pump without sucking wax back out of the filter you need a small air break. this is a simple one way valve at a high point after the heat exchanger. this allows air to be sucked.
  25. i'll get some pic of it. would be good to compare. also i really need to do a diagram of the hose setup. thats quite important part of the setup. i did see pics years ago of a filter setup that was really weird. it had dual pumps. i have no idea why. i did actually forget to mention the pumps. we run a progressive cavity pump which works great and are cable of good pressure. however i found you really don't need ,much pressure so the filter should work well ok with the common low pressure vane pumps most people have.
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