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tristan

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tristan last won the day on March 10

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About tristan

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    Field Bee

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    Commercial Beekeeper

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    Maungaturoto

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  1. how old is the pricker? the early ones have back to front cam plates which waste a fair bit of air. even if you have the later ones i would look at improving it to save air. it will make a big difference to your power system. compressed air is highly inefficient and wastes huge amounts of power. if your restricted on power then its very worth while to optimize the compressed air. i guess you do not have an heat exchanger. that might be an issue with the filter or spin float. it will have to run slow. thick sticky honey does not like to separate from the wax. i typically have 34c as my minimum temp. with really sticky honey it needs to go up. i would not bother running anything through the sieve. run it all through the filter, then put the wax from that (which has a fair bit of honey with it) into your cappings bags with any big stuff. most beeks i know would not be happy with using cappings bags. they like the wax to be dry as possible. the other issue is how the cappings bags handle crystalline honey. but if it works fine for you.
  2. what are you using to deal with the scrapings, bridging etc? realistically, both spin float and filter still use a wax press to deal with the big bulky wax. even with just pricking you still have big stuff that needs dealing with. so a small wax press is the first thing.how big depends on if you are decapping or just pricking. for pricking only setup, the wax press is used very little so not much power usage. for a low power situation, a self cleaning filter would be the best. simply due to the small motor size it has (i think its 250 watts ?? plus 300 watt for the heater ). spin floats have substantially larger motors. i'm not sure what is on the non-wax cutting type spin floats (which is the best spin float for small setups). one issue ,might be if the speed controllers will run off your inverter power. what pricker are you running? manual or semi? the semi's usually use compressed air. making sure you have an efficient compressed air setup will save a lot of power.
  3. i'm wondering what YEAR that video was done in. they seam to be a bit out of date.
  4. i think its fixed screen and moving blades. sometimes you see the pressure bounce as the blade goes past the inlet. pressure wise, i typically run it at a few psi and most of that is caused by the pipe setup ie the pressure is to pump the honey up the outlet rather than through the screen. it doesn't need pressure at all to work. in fact i find that pressure can have an opposite effect. i think the wax gets pushed into the screen to much which creates a blockage. with low pressure the wax just floats away from the screen. i was running the pump slow today and it was at sub 1 psi for most of the day. at full pump speed i think i hit about 3 psi. usually i only need 10 -15 psi to push jammed up wax out. if i left it way to long, the wax has dried out and doesn't want to go out. i can close the honey outlet valve and the back pressure pushes the wax up and out. one thing i had forgotten about is that the old spin float is basically gravity fed, the honey just drops into it and the self cleaning filter is pressure fed. there is a small issue when you need to reverse the pump. not a problem with the spin float but with the filter it sucks back all the wax thats collected in it. that can cause blockages in the heat exchanger. why reverse the pump? thats to stop heat soak into the honey and over heat it when the pump is stopped. also if its stopped for a long time the wax in honey floats to the top and can create a bung which can block up the heat exchanger. to be able to reverse the pump without sucking wax back out of the filter you need a small air break. this is a simple one way valve at a high point after the heat exchanger. this allows air to be sucked.
  5. i'll get some pic of it. would be good to compare. also i really need to do a diagram of the hose setup. thats quite important part of the setup. i did see pics years ago of a filter setup that was really weird. it had dual pumps. i have no idea why. i did actually forget to mention the pumps. we run a progressive cavity pump which works great and are cable of good pressure. however i found you really don't need ,much pressure so the filter should work well ok with the common low pressure vane pumps most people have.
  6. we have been trailing a self cleaning filter supplied by HD process. http://www.hdprocess.co.nz/products/category/self-cleaning-filters.html not the exact same as pictured but same basic setup. technically its not a filter but rather a sieve. a filter will filter out a wide range of sized particles. even a 200 mic filter will filter out a bit of 10 mic particles. however a 200 mic sieve will not. a minor point but one worth understanding. this uses a small motor to turn a small blade that cleans off the surface of the filter. that way you can use a small filter without it getting blocked up. this also means that the stuff scrapped off the filter stays in suspension and can be drained out of the filter. with honey, this machine has the honey mix entering in near the bottom. honey drains through the wire filter and out the bottom. wax floats to the top of the honey where it is drained out the top valve. however i found it really needs to be kept completely full of honey in order to have the wax rise up to the top to the outlet. the simple way to do that was to raise the honey outlet up high. so the hose out of the machine now goes up to the top of the filter. this makes a trap, much like a kitchen sink waste trap. this keeps the filter full even when your not pumping anything through it. also having a tap on the outlet is rather handy to generate pressure to push wax out. one issue is if you leave it to long and the wax dries out, its kinda hard to get to go out the outlet without a bit of force. block the honey outlet, open the wax outlet and pump pressure does the rest. the trick i find with it is to do pump the wax mix out fairly regularly. its opposite to a spin float where you try to get nice dry wax. with the filter you want very wet wax. that wax mix then goes to the wax press. it goes in with the cappings. honey pump speed, i can run our pump at max speed and it handles it fine. thats faster than what we can extract with a 24 and 16 frame extractors. most of the time i run the pump at 3/4 speed. the good thing is you can vary the speed with no issues. so if you have been doing part boxes all day then do a few pallets of very full boxes, you can just crank the pump speed up with no issues. i find it does a very good job of cleaning the honey, except that it lets through wax thats under the filter size. we have a 200 mic filter (i think) and the tub gets a bit of sub 200 mic wax floating on top. in fact it gets mixed in with the usual honey foam. i actually check the drums to see how much of this wax gets into the drums and found its next to nothing. its a very thin coating on top of the honey. nothing a packer won't filter out with ease. recently we gave it a torture test. a customer brought in pallets of willow dew honey. this amount is a bit of a nightmare for spin floats because spin floats capture crystalline honey very well. with the filter its a bit problematic as well because crystalline doesn't float to the top like wax does. we have had normal amounts through the filter previously without issue, but this was a huge amount of it. in the end what i found worked well was to keep heat exchanger at normal, increase the speed of the filter cleaning, slow down the pump speed and keep opening the wax outlet often to get the crystalline out. keep in mind this is 100% willow dew. that crystalline honey then went through the wax press, the honey from that goes back though the filter. overall i was surprised at how little crystalline was left in the wax from the wax press. with spin floats it builds up and is a lot to clean out. i wonder if the cleaning action of the filter somehow helps break up some of the crystalline honey. this also comes with a 300w thermostatically heater wrap around half of it. i suspect this is to stop crystalline honey from sticking to the inside. something i think spin floats desperately need. this came with a pressure gauge which will tell you if the filter is getting blocked up. in normal operation the pressure required to push honey through it is next to nothing provided its heated well enough. i've got it set to around mid 30's, typically 34 degrees is all it needs. going hotter doesn't really help unless your pumping big volumes. i'm actually running a bit cooler than what the spin float requires. downside is you really need a pressure warning alarm because your not always watching the gauge and at one time it did clog, pressure rises rapidly and it blew a hose off. cleaning should it get jammed is fairly easy. has a built in lifter to lift the motor off and then you pull the filter out. quick clean and pop it back in. only takes a few minutes. so i've been comparing to it to our rather old BeeTech spin float. the spin float was originally setup to handle all the wax, but like most spin floats they don't really handle wax well, especially if its comes in big chunks. since we got the wax press which takes care of the cappings, the spin floats only handles the wax from the extractors. that makes it work a whole lot better. spin float pro's very clean honey except on shutdown where a bit of wax gets in. other brands/models can have similar issues on startup. cons's big danger factor. a lot of weight standing up high, spinning at high speed. it has been known to throw a wobbly. requires bolting to floor. has complicated startup and shut down routines which take a while. does not like sudden increases in pump speed. bearings are an issue. takes a fair bit of time to clean and then requires time to dry as water can get trapped in it. noisy. self cleaning filter pro's fairly insensitive to pump speeds. can slow down or speed up pump without issues unless you have massive amounts of crystalline honey. cleans honey well enough safe, it rotates cleaning blade internally and at very slow speed. no need to bolt it to the floor. fast to startup and shutdown. fairly easy to remove filter for cleaning. quiet running cons bit of extra pipe work required and traps a bit of honey in it (which can be drained but is unprocessed) not quite as clean as spin float. foam and wax build up in the tank to be managed. requires a wax press. thanks to HD process for the rather long trail of it so i could work out the kinks. i hope that helps someone.
  7. what part of Whangarei? it would not surprise me at all if there was abandoned hives around Whangarei. with current honey prices etc there is likely to be those who have just walked away from it. you will get loads of mites from them.
  8. that would not surprise me, i have heard of many horror stories from that outfit. theres been a bit of discussion around that as many beeks are finding honey is failing CFU count. brood in supers is typically the no1 problem.
  9. i don't have an stats on it but i doubt there is any difference between requeen single vers double brood. putting cells in during honey flow would be a pita. typically its done once the number of supers has been reduced. but every area is different. autumn requeening has its risks as well. do not put cells on the floor or in supers. they need to be in good contact with bees and in the brood.
  10. thats pretty normal.
  11. i have a couple FD drone frames cut down which work fine with no bottom bar.
  12. for petrol pump a honda wb20. not sure of the exact model, might be a wb20xt ?? i would not recommend the fuel bowser. its not so much about crap clogging them but sugar syrup crystals forming in the mech and clogging it. you pretty much have to clean them daily. only issue with ball valves is if they get knocked open. you could go gravity into a bucket. did that for years. would work fine especially with such a small tank.
  13. i have doubts that pump would work well. but i don't have any specs on what works well for them. tho a few beeks here do use them that style of pump. keep in mind that most pumps are made for water/fuel which is a whole lot easier to pump than thick syrup. forget using any fuel type nozzle or filter/strainer, as the sugar clogs them. a simple ball valve for a tap work well. sugar syrup is rather dense and tends to impact the sides of the tank fairly hard. any poor design or welding can result in cracks and end up with corners splitting open. this is about 3/4 done. half the baffles and top to go. welded inside and out.
  14. any pics? the one i mostly built is now in service and no leaks ! pumps, the petrol powered ones are about the best cheap way to go. 12v pumps tend to be expensive.
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