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Mummzie last won the day on May 13

Mummzie had the most liked content!

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About Mummzie

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  1. @Neville. Keep in mind that if you did find that hives Queen in the lower cluster, and sent her back into the box, that she may have been out of the hive for long enough to be considered an intruder. You could have all sorts of interesting things happening in that colony. Good luck with the recovery
  2. Ask 5 beekeepers a question and you will get 7 answers.....heavens..how many answers from a forum? I can answer from my observations only. I have 2 ventilated and the rest are solid. In my location and the weather we have had this winter- I would favour the ventilated to keep the hive dry however other years I would not have come up with that answer. There could be other factors at play- like site position, wind direction, colony strength.... I have been taught spring time initial maintenance is to give the hive base a good clean out, scraping with the hive tool. Getting a hive through winter in good condition is one of the bigger learning curves. I have often been told that's its ventilation rather than warmth that is the important factor.
  3. agree, and thanks for asking because it made me find out. The moth life cycle consists of 4 stages. ... Wax moth eggs hatch to the larval stage in 5 to 8 days. New larvae burrow into beeswax comb attempting to reach the comb midrib. They are specialists to eat and grow and feed for 1 to 5 months, depending on the temperature Google says freeze for 2 days, so it agrees with Maggies 48 hours.
  4. until others come up with a better solution, here's one that works to a degree. I had to ask the same question and the advice I got was "wash them" Immerse the frame into tepid water- then take somewhere bee proof or washable and shake the frame firmly. The diluted honey should shake out. Repeat as necessary. Use tepid water so the wax doesn't get brittle, and don't think the girls wont find the frames if you leave them in the sun to dry..
  5. there was a swarm round here on the weekend.
  6. sorry to have assumed that because Gorans list of ingredients included citric acid , that you might have been interested. And that lemon juice, being citric was relevant. I will just crawl back under my rock.
  7. @yesbut, why dont you try formulating something based on the list of ingredients supplied by @Goran? Have you found the study done by someone in Israel (i think) on lemon juice. From memory it had some effectiveness but was pretty harsh on the open bee-brood.
  8. maybe someone who sells honey can help you..............
  9. @Haider I can't understand what you are asking at all. And if you are a honey marketer, I would think that is a question you should know the answer to. Are you asking what % of honey can be in extracted honey? Before filtering or after? Unless you are taking honey from brood frames, there should not be much pollen in the honey, I don't believe the bees store pollen in the honey frames if there's no brood. Please correct me someone if I have this wrong.
  10. @kaihoka would have to be the only beekeeper in New Zealand who doesn't have a near-by beek.......🤪
  11. Good question. The retired commercial beek I had help from had developed a reaction to propolis- but stings no issue.
  12. I think you are right. Especially when moving sideways I found that one extra shift would cause considerable searching for the hive rather than the "woo- must have misjudged the approach" behaviour. A day or two static and then start the move again. Lets face it- if the weather is that bad, you didnt want to go out and move it anyway.
  13. if the wailing of despair on this forum are anything to go by- one would wonder at the need for such a large venue in a year or so.............?
  14. Its a petrie dish victory so far. The research was not carried out on humans but on lung tissue from pigs, in which bacterial infections were grown.
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