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Dane Attwood

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Everything posted by Dane Attwood

  1. As already mentioned photos of frames would be great... I note you treated with apistan last autumn then bayvarol in spring... both are made with the same chemical, it is recommended to alternate treatments... I would recommend getting some apivar in that hive asap... reduce it down to a single box or even a nuc box if you have one...
  2. I would recommend leaving that honey frame in the brood box for winter feed unless you are planning on leaving a full honey super on for winter as feed honey. Also you could swap supers so the near empty one is at the top and let them keep going till they are both full as its now January and you will need to get a tutin test done on your honey you extract.
  3. Is it just me or is it very odd for the Pohutakawa to be flowering late February when this same tree flowered in December. Its not a heavy flower but it is going red... now to see if any nectar comes out of it... the bees are on it...
  4. Put another super on it...
  5. Treat with apivar to knock varroa down... maybe don't burn the whole hive but burn the ugly brood frames by taking two out at a time and replacing them with good clean built out frames like ones just come from extraction... replace 2 frames every 3 weeks till all brood frames are new... also shrink the hive down as small as possible but make sure they have plenty of nectar and pollen... buy a good mated queen from a good queen breeder...
  6. My guess is there is still brood and maybe a queen in that honey box... have you checked it for brood and or queen?
  7. Cant you just use google earth and pin the spot...
  8. https://m.sunlive.co.nz/news/190757-doc-to-restrict-beehive-movement-on-pcl.html
  9. That frame is a write off as it was never waxed properly to start with... but would say that hive is a write off and the wax moth has just taken over...
  10. Sadly that's an unknown quantity as the year just gone I was feeding hives in right up till early November at some sites as they had an early flow on September built up numbers then the flow stopped and they ran out of food....best to feed in autumn to build up stores then early spring to bring on new bees... as feeding during winter tends to shorten winter bees lifespan as they are working to process the sugar...
  11. The plastic parts on the board should be facing down... if they are facing up the bees will get stuck in the honey boxes... you may need to add or return your honey boxes to the hive after extraction to give the bees space inside the hive.
  12. I would also recommend opening up the entrance so they can get in and out easier... looks like you have it on reduced mode that is for late autumn and winter time
  13. If they have no nectar stores then feed them sugar but only until the flow starts... so small amounts often
  14. Put them on the fence line with entrance facing north/east... you will miss out on some late afternoon sun but will be the best option... you may still have a little problem with bee poo on your washing but fences and trees will force bees to fly up over your neighbour's so shouldn't be to much of a problem
  15. Yep at the end of the day you can't make them take it up... side note it's hard work on the bees to process sugar... they will be trying to conservative their energy
  16. I brought 0.55 mm sprung lids when I started and they are ok but feel really light and can't really handle the weight of a full super on them (I put the lid upside down on the ground and put the super on it sometimes two) brought some 0.75mm and they are way better... as kiwifruiter said strap them as the wind will still pull them off... closed are ok but sometimes hard to get off
  17. Sadly it's too late in the season for protein based baits... needs to start them in February for best results... best option now is reduced entrance, install robbing guard or move hives to different apairy... try and track down wasp nest and destroy it....
  18. Yea well I live in Te Puke and have one hive at home... so interesting information... the question is where are they spraying? Is it the red dot sites getting sprayed or as already said that's just AFB sites...
  19. It's not recommended to move hives short distance... but you can do it but over time like move them half a metre ever four days or a week... would recommend putting hives back before the sun goes down
  20. When I worked for a company machining box material 21mm dressed timber was the standard for the Comercial guys
  21. MAQS are hard on weak or sick bees and queens...Sounds like you had two weak Queens... you say your extra supers are mostly empty... how much pollen and honey do your hives have? As the Queen will slow down if food supply is slow or none
  22. not cool get that treatment in there... if varroa loading is high now it makes it very hard for the hive to recover before winter
  23. What treatment did you do for varroa? Are there other people's hives near yours... sounds like you have deformed wing virus (caused by varroa overload) also could be pms... but you need to get your sample sent into lab for AFB testing it's free... looking on asurequality website for details
  24. Did you just have varroa strips in your hives? I've seen this when strips have been put in roughly and dragged up and down the capped brood...
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