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About Zom-bee

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  1. it is ground limestone with sulphur added
  2. Not sure what catergory to put this in but is agricultural lime sulphur poisionous to bees, asking this because one of my sites of 30 hives has been crop dusted by the farmer fertilising his farm, dosage rate 3 tons to the hectare, just checked them after he had finished dusting, didnt open hives but bees are flying about normally. would they be okay or will it be a slow death of the apiary?
  3. Just a bit of light reading i found on the net, helps to put my mind at ease Animals and Temperature Treatment of the Pupae. Colonies of the European honey bee (Apis mellifera carnica) were used for the experiments. To synchronize brood, egg-laying queens were confined to single brood combs for 24 h by using wire-mesh cages that permitted passage of only workers. Shortly after brood-cell capping, combs were transferred into incubators (Bachofer 400 HY-E, Reutlingen, Germany; Rumed 1000-72039, Laatzen, Germany; Sanyo MIR-153, Bad Nenndorf, Germany). During the entire pupal phase, the temperature was set to constant temperatures at 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33.5, 34.5, 35, 36, 37, and 38°C (three to four brood combs with 400–1,100 capped brood cells at each temperature) and monitored continuously within brood cells by using fine thermoprobes (Almemo 2290-8 V5, Holzkirchen, Germany). Deviations from preset temperatures were less than ±0.2°C. For all temperature treatments, the duration of pupal development and the emergence rates were recorded.Emergence rates were highest between 31 and 36°C (89–100%), drastically dropped at higher and lower temperatures, and came to zero at 28 and 38°C (Table 1), largely confirming previous studies (1, 5). Pupal development was shortest between 34.5 and 37°C (10–11 days), increased at lower temperatures, and went up to almost twice the normal duration at 29°C (19–22 days). After emergence, bees reared between 32 and 36°C exhibited no obvious morphological and/or behavioral deficits. Some of the bees reared at <32°C and >36°C, however, showed malformations of their wings, stinger, proboscis, or legs.
  4. was only temporary, maybe 10 -45seconds, just fretting a bit i geuss, good to see a laugh was had at my expense lol
  5. LOL, so ya reckon they're ## gosh i hope not?lol, the temp probe was sitting on the black plastic portion of the q/cell, i know its a dumb question but what are the temperature ranges a q/cell can survive in? currently they are in the shed incubator resting at 33.8 degrees
  6. Hi, just a quick bit of information, was out and about with the incubator today with quenncells inside and the temperature spiked to 37 degrees(that pesky sun) and the alarm went off so exposure may have been for like 10-20 secs to that temperature, queen cells were in the foam with the temperature probe, whats the likelyhood they are toast? thanks
  7. Rofl somebodys knickers are in a twist! I fully understand the principles and the practicalities behind breeding(selecting larvae from hives with preferential traits, 16 days from conception to hatching, then 5-7 days for sexual maturity, then give or take a few days for mating). considering the hive has a brood break during the queenless period i dont think the varroa would be much of an issue, do you?, interestingly enough as tristian pointed out, under certain circumstances it can be beneficial in a short flow as there is no brood to rear, downside is hive strength drops substantially for subsequent flows in the season. You can keep your knickers untwisted, i purchase mated queens from a reputable breeder and now he has given me the oppurtunity to buy q/cells from him aswell, so you can breathe a deep sigh of relief. as it was only a question and a experiment its good to know people have had sucess with this method, i have experimented on a couple hives and it is far too slow for my liking but was an avenue i was willing to explore and in my conclusion ideally suited to the hobbiest or temporarily knocking back a hive set on swarming/organic varroa control etc(this would be requeened at a later date to ensure good genetics and productivity), but handy to have in the toolbox as a method to use when appropriote. I envy you for that luxury Frazzledfrozzle.
  8. lol i agree this beekeeping is rather fickle and tempermental
  9. Would it be possible to do them now and then again in autumn? some have swarmed and i am splitting those doubles sitting beside eachother sharing field bees, each hive has q/cell in them, best practice? is it possible to do this to a single f/d brood box effectively doing poor mans nucs? thanks
  10. I assume that is with drawn frames and a frame of brood in the super. What is the expexted timeframe from split to laying queen? am i wrong in assuming about 4 weeks, basically im looking to double my numbers cheaply. would it be possible to do it now and again in feb-march?
  11. Hi, anybody had any reasnoble sucess with poor mans splits? the method im comtemplating is to divide a queenright double f/d broodboxes in half with the "queen and brood" being placed a few metres away from original location. The other half is to reamain in place with a frame or two of fresh eggs to raise emergency queens and utilise the field bees to compensate for the delay in replacement brood. thanks
  12. just thought i would post this. Thoughts
  13. How far in does the vapouriser have to go in to the hive to be effective?
  14. cheers man, i have just bought some bosch ones for a ford courier(figured if it doesnt work i can always use then in my truck). i bought some 25x40x75mm aluminium blocks but looking back thru phillbees posts i think i may have overengineered that lol
  15. hi im making oxalic acid vapourisers from glow plugs, can the glowplug be exposed or is it better to have it enclosed in a block of aluminium? Any tips on designing theese? thanks
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