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Posts posted by olbe

  1. I get the board precut to 400x350 then we cut 11 strips @ 400 x 30 per sheet, we then fold strips before soaking, we have costed out to around 4.5 cents cost per strip before soaking.


    we use 2000 micron board food contact ( not supposed to say food grade anymore) .

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  2. I use solid fibre board from Oji fibre solutions , but we buy by the pallet enough board to make around 22000 strips.


    smaller quantities you should be able to get from somewhere like Attwoods, Their Hamilton store will cut board to size , so I assume there other stores will also do the same.


    I know others have found more suppliers out there but I don't know who they are .


    I don't see a need to try gib tape as the board works very well for me, we soak for 48 hrs , then leave to dry for about a week before using

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  3. I use screened floors and most hives will have no card dust on the screen , some will have little mounds of card dust on the floor , these look as if the bees don't touch them as they are usually neatly rounded piles. I sometimes wonder if the bees that eject the card dust are perhaps more hygenic  and maybe I should be using this as part of my breeder criteria.


    When I first started seriously playing around oxalic strips I used my home apiary which had a lot of poorly performing hives that I had brought home plus a few good hives that had high mite counts and some DWV , these were my trial hives, the highest mite count was 68 per 300 bees in April. That hive went from a full box of bees in April down to 4 frames by August and early October was strong enough to split. I had several hives that got down to about a cup of bees in August but only lost one of those hives, I had around 30 hives at home for my trial.


    Have used Oxalic every year  since then and don't really see anything that would stop me using as a spring or autumn treatment.


    I will say that some of these hives had a oxalic vapor treatment as this was when the university of sussex published their research paper on oxalic vapor so we made a vaporiser and tried it.


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  4. Alistair, a sick hive , a slow down in brood rearing , mites hatching from existing brood, could be the reason for higher mite count after seven days .


    If it was me I'd hang in there a bit longer , an opportunity for a  learning experience maybe .



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  5. You guys could try the CO2 method , you don't have to buy the fancy gizmo just get one of the bike CO2 pumps and with a few mods you will be able to make it work 

    I have not used CO2 myself but Trevor has a video somewhere I think.



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  6. Alastair, it would be good if you were able to do a mite check every seven days , that way you may get an earlier idea of whether this will work or not.


    When I first experimented with oxalic strips I used about ten hives in my home apiary and did alcohol washes every seven days and what I found was mite levels fell by approx half every seven days until they dropped to zero.

    one of the hives had a greater mite load than yours has and had lots of deformed wing , it survived and was even split in the spring. The strips which were put in around mid april 

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  7. bought some propolis capsules from a "proudly 100% new zealand owned " company last year , only to find they were not supporting other NZ owned businesses and using imported propolis in their capsules, needless to say, I will never buy another product from that Co again .



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  8. I am intending to try the CO2 method , but just a note for anyone wanting to use this method, you may still want to make sure not to get the queen in your sample as there is a NZ research paper from around the late seventies /early 80"s  that says  the lifespan of bees put to sleep with CO2 is shortened. I think this research was done on queens put to sleep for AI.



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  9. 46 minutes ago, Alastair said:

    Wonder why take the lids though. Probably amateurs doing someone elses dirty work


    well we are supposed to keep honey covered when transporting @Alistair


    If they ever get caught we should be allowed to feed these bass - t#rds  on a little piece of soft metal 

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