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Wildflower

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Wildflower last won the day on August 30 2019

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About Wildflower

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    House Bee

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  • Beekeeping Experience
    Hobby Beekeeper

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    Eyrewell

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  1. I am a member of both of the north Canterbury bee clubs. One of which made the thymol wafers. I have never lost a hive but prob prefer chemical treatment to be safe. All 3 hives seem happy and well. Increasing nicely. I have never lost a hive. My main loss early Spring was due to robbing. I replaced a FD on bottom with 3/4 with my best frames. Didn't realise I was setting them up for being robbed. Made worse by having a Hive Dr that the sugar crystals dropped out of. Will treat again if neccessary. They are filling 2 x 3/4 boxes nicely at moment and bringing in a good amount of honey. Likely I will read up about the sugar shake again to be sure. Yes I will use chemical treatments if needed. I will also keep an eye on the freshly cleaned bottom board.
  2. Sounds a tad nasty but oh well. Doing my best. Haven't yet killed a hive. And yep thymol wasn't good in Winter. Watch this space.
  3. I knew that would be one of the responses. 🙂 At this stage I would love for them to build up a bit more. But definately will be very regular in checking.When doing a sugar shake ( must google how) do any of the bees die?
  4. Applied Apistan early Spring. All 3 hives look good now and are building up nicely. When cleaning up though, one hive board was covered with varroa mites. Am I to assume these are dead from treatment? I check weekly and will keep a keen eye on them. But if varroa is still present what do I do seeing as the honey flow has started. They were treated with thymol wafers in Autumn. One wafer must have dropped into bottom of box.
  5. For my interest please... Why did you have to move frames up and out of brood boxes? I actually have 26 waxed FD frames. If I needed a few more, it would not worry me. But that is beside the point....
  6. Yes. This is how I understood it. Thanks.... I pick up thr 5 frame FD nuc this week and there is nothing to lose trying it out as you say. I have the 2 FD boxes plus frames needed.
  7. Thanks. As I said, I have 2 full depth boxes plus 20 FD frames. Yes this is a definate option. BUT. Looking at less treatment.less frames to search for Q. It seems a very interesting option to experiment with a single brood box. Cutting down my boxes to 3/4? Fine . But I still end up with 20 FD manuka waxed frames that can't be cut down! I am still curious to check out the 1 brood box management . 1 full depth box mathmatically, is enough space for Q? That's maths... It is interesting. On Utube. They talk about single box management . But no one , bar, a one time conversation with my bee club ( I work Sundays so can't attend) have I heard about splitting up frames of fully capped brood. At the bee club they have some single brood box hives for ease of finding Q and disease management. But they have FD above QE and they talk about moving fully capped brood into box above QE to hatch with frames added below in middle of lower box brood to be (evidently) very quickly refilled. Alright show off. You not old. You doing arrows to tell me where to look. FZIZNe.... that spells FINE when you don't hit the right buttons... I will look.🙂
  8. It is down loaded somewhere? Maybe I will have a search? BUT I really really want to learn about single brood box hive management! Stubborn old girl!!!
  9. Thanks yesbut. BUT REALLY! So another 2 × 3/4 brood box. Hive. Double treatment. 20 frames to look for Q. Problems etc. And still 2 full depth boxes un-used with 20 new frames..... Are you getting old like me?😮 Or is there another reason for all 3/4?. Of course there is,but other thoughts too please.
  10. I am about to pic up a full depth nuc. Usually I run 2 x 3/4 brood boxes and 3/4 honey supers for ease of lifting. (nearly 60!😮) Anyway, I have 2 full depth boxes and 20 full depth frames that are not in use. So have been studying single brood box management. The maths says there is enough room for Q to lay. And from what I gather, attention to feeding is a must. BUT... Question? I heard somewhere that I need a full depth honey box on top of single brood box to allow for expansion if needed? They said I can put fully capped brood above QE and insert new frames for laying under.( in middle of brood nest) Other Utube stuff doesn't meantion this. And some have half size honey super on for feeding. Thoughts please?
  11. Long term, I am hoping to work less at my Garden Centre, and hope to supplement my income doing occasional market stalls. Only thinking very small scale....What is needed to be able to legally produce some honey/ honey products to sell at markets? Found info on food safety act etc. On line.
  12. Have treated with apistan. But there will still be a time to recover.
  13. Wouldn't it be nice to have the option of giving them a frame of healthy brood!! Only one other hive and it is only covering 4 or so frames itself. Will work on expanding a bit this year.
  14. Checked my tiny DWV hive today. The Q is laying but they have a lot of cleaning up to do. I lifted a new frame to find large hole with dead mouse attached!! They have a mouse guard on AND a block of wood in front of hole. There are chew marks at entrance. How on earth does a large mouse get in? Another Question. There were uncapped cells with white bees in. One had been pulled out. Likely all of these had bad DWV? I know they can hatch with no wings. I used a matchstick to pull them out as all of these were in the centre of a newly laid frame. Is it helpfull to do this for the bees? They have so few bees to do so much work.
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