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ctm

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  • Beekeeping Experience
    Hobby Beekeeper

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  • Location
    Dairy flat

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  1. I used the method that was in advised in the summery of the oxalic staples debate in this forum . I have 4 hives each with 2 levels of brood-honey and added 7 staples in that section divided over all the frames. On top a honey super. Treated 3mch19 to 23april19. I use 3/4 only. I counted almost every day the mitefall. Result: hive 1: 7day 1103 in 10 days 600 6wks 352 ending in counts of 5, 5, 3 at the end hive 2: 7 day 2528 in 10 days 1700 6wks 2070 ending in counts of 14,9 (oxalic acid vapour first two days mitefall 30,9) as a follow up treatment hive 3: 7 day 442 10day 50
  2. Yesbut is right, about 25 km north of Auckland, in between Albany and Orewa.
  3. I have lure hives on my property to attract swarms. We often get called if a swarm arrives in the neighbourhood. It is easier for me and nicer for the bees to find their new home on their own. I had 3 swarms last year and don't have any spare capacity to house them. Is there a beekeeper in the Dairy Flat area where I can drop them? A registered beekeeper is preferred with a carry capacity. If they can pay for the new frames I placed in that would be great. With swarms, I don't know when and how many will arrive so I would like to drop them throughout the swarm season.
  4. ctm

    swarm

    Great, thank you for your advice yesbut, I will move the box this evening.
  5. ctm

    swarm

    My lure box cached a swarm this afternoon. Two questions, do bees that want to swarm, first find a place to go to and then swarm to that place . Or do they swarm and than try to find a place. Or both. The reason why I ask is bees where checking out the lure-box for 5 days and more before they decided to move in. You would think a already swarmed colony hanging in a tree somewhere would not wait that long. Other question. I like to give it to my neighbour (150 meter away), should I wait until the queen has some eggs or move it as soon as possible so foragers won't come back to the original p
  6. Last year I made my own foundation from 3 yrs old wax. I noticed bees not particularly liked the frames. The left them totally empty. This year I placed them in earlier and in the brood boxes. To my surprise they did starting to draw comb, but perpendicular to the wax sheet. Does somebody makes his own wax sheets and know why the bees behave this way? Sheet thickness = 0.8-1.1mm. I also use this wax to wax my plastic frames, which works fine. Wax was heated, wax boarded and rolled. Thanks.
  7. To explain why Vespex is not working in area’s where there is more than enough other "life prey" for wasps and therefor wasps won’t touch vespex. I found this article: “In non beech forest where there are no high popuation of wasps, wasps preferred preying on inver-tebrates to scavenging on sardine cat-food. When scaveng-ing on sardine cat-food bait increased it may indicate that the supply of invertebrates was insufficient to meet the demands of the wasp population at that time, and may explain why poisoning operations using sardinecat-food for bait are most successful from Janu
  8. See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7VxZVSLm4E You have to dip your wooden mould in water first, and roll the sheet flatter afterwards else it gets brittle. I made half a full frame sheets and melt them together into one so I did not had to have such a big wax bath. A flat sheet gives your bees a bit of artistic freedom. I can tell you next year if they appreciate this. As for moulds, you might fill both sides of a plastic frame with liquid resin (remove) and press those bits together with wax in between. I think you will get many airbubbles and need a huge force. You will
  9. I made my own foundation this year with surplus wax. It is not difficult. I placed these frames in at the end of the season and the bees didn't touch it. They rather worked the hexagonal patterned black frames and bought wax foundation. I will place them in again at the beginning of the season and see if they draw them out. Maybe I made it too thick?
  10. I used it mid January until the end of March when they are geared up for protein in our area. I am glad our neighbor made me aware of the existence of two nests. So we were able to kill them. That made a difference. I also removed all dead bees in the morning so they had less food. Cost 135 dollars (500g) incl postage + getting your license 65 dollars. They can't deliver Rural so be aware.
  11. I have the same issue, 3 hives no brood, 3 queens of different age and pedigree. I have never seen that before.
  12. I have my vespex licence. I have wasp nests 100 -200m from my hive in the bush. However, they don't touch Vespex. They love the dead bees in front of the hives. I can imagine Vespex works in the South Island forest where there is almost no food but Vespex. If you have one or 2 wasp nest in the area and want to kill them, I don't see it happen with Vespex on my property.
  13. I reduced my plastic frames as follows: Make 4 small cuts in the 2 vertical beam, but leave the beam longer by 8mm or so. With a boxcutter, cut off the excess of plastic foundation. You can cut it an break it off. Take the end bar (with or without a slit) of a wooden frame (maybe you have some broken lying around) Cut wooden bar to size. Drill two holes per vertical (plastic frame) for the nails to go in. Place wooden bar in place and lock in place with the nails. Works for me, a bit of work but the frame doesn't warp. Photo's attached.
  14. I have a mesh bottom board, which I close with a plastic drawer for mite count in winter. My impression is bees being cold, tend to eat more honey in winter. I close the drawer beginning of April. I also noticed when overwintering in 2 supers. Top super being honey. Bees are really keen to move upwards (drawer closed) leaving the bottom super half empty to full empty as winter goes on. I am now thinking of insulating the plastic bottom drawer so they are warmer during winter. They are also more able to guard the entrance in winter against wasps, who are superior
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