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Everything posted by deejaycee

  1. I was going to suggest a hot water bottle, Panadol and some good chocolate... but Ted's suggestion is probably more relevant. Unless you're seeing other symptoms of varroa - high counts, faeces on cell roofs, DWV in emerging or non-emerged bees, etc - and given that you've had treatment in both boxes for the full 3 weeks, it's possible that varroa is not the culprit. It may simply be chill kill as the weather turns cold in erratic spurts as it is at the moment, and they cluster tighter on those cold nights overnight while still having relatively large amounts of brood, you can get brood on the fringes that dies simply because it's outside the cluster
  2. yes, and that's Mark Goodwin's observation as well.
  3. Pollen patties and syrup serve two very different nutritional purposes and are not interchangeable. Syrup subs for honey, and is a carbohydrate source. Pollen patties sub for natural pollen and are primarily a protein source.
  4. Deon, with respect, and I recognise that you're tagged as a beginner, but your titling the thread 'chalkbrood, sacbrood..' when they are not at all evident in the photo (to the point of being the opposite symptoms) says you're a long way behind the eight ball on disease identification. If you haven't got a copy, get the yellow AFB book and study up on disease identification. If those bees have died at emergence then the most likely issue is high varroa loading - they've been too weakened during development to emerge. Get that Bayvarol in quicksmart and watch the hive carefully. Really, at the start of April, ideally you'd be at least half way through your varroa treatment.
  5. For the beeswax wraps, the ones being sold are either beeswax with jojoba oil, coconut oil, or beeswax on their own. The plain beeswax are not as malleable, but do the job ok. I'd avoid olive oil - too short a shelf life, and oxidises far too easily in an air-exposed application like this. Jojoba is the ultimate - has a huge shelf life, basically doesn't go off and has anti-bacterial and microbial properties. Coconut oil too is being used for similar reasons... but I suspect mostly because Jojoba is about $70/kg where Coconut is more like $10.
  6. Castile, which is 100% olive oil, is the gentlest of soaps, Trev, which is why I make it for myself and the kids. Takes a long cure though - you can use it after 6 weeks just like any cold process soap, but it's at its best after a 12 month cure. Silky lather, not very bubbly.
  7. well, turns out I hardly ever take photos. Found a couple of old ones. The darker soap is an acne soap.. I remember flowers of sulphur in it, probably tea tree oil, can't remember what else. The white one is a pure castile (100% olive oil), which is what I make most frequently.
  8. nearly an hour long... am I looking for a particular punchline, or did you find every minute funny?
  9. LOL awww... I'm touched you remembered.
  10. Sweet Fanny Adams for most of them. Willow dew for the rest.
  11. no, no particular connection.. other than the plants needing to be in flower. Some plants produce nectar but little or no (workable) pollen, some produce pollen but no nectar, some produce both.
  12. maybe. I don't tend to throw my cellphone around because I hate texting*, so it's quite likely I've not given it to the Agency... if you only got the notice a day ago there could yet be one in the snailmail for me. *and interruptions... and sometimes people... have strong hermit genes.
  13. I'm on the intersection of St George' and Havelock. Howard if I recall wasn't a robout notice, it was a local pollinator who had found an AFB hive that had worked that location?
  14. Is that for your home site, Rob? I've got one 1.3 km from you and haven't had a notice ... yet..
  15. You're wrong about Apiculture NZ - it'd be a good potential venue for you to contact beekeepers.
  16. The mixture needs to be filtered to remove solid particulates (wax, wood, bee bits, etc) which are then discarded, and then the ethanol with propolis is distilled to remove the ethanol. You end up with a very thick paste with 1 or 2% moisture. Not usually a home process. Home process usually only goes as far as producing the ethanol tincture. Do you have an end use for the propolis, or are you just looking for an income off it? If you're looking for an income you just sell the propolis in its raw scraped/mat form to a processor. Don't attempt to do any cleaning or processing yourself (other than picking out obvious bee bits or wood fragments) or you'll stuff it up. Just keep it dry and frozen until you have enough to send. I disagree, by the way, that it's not worth collecting for a couple of hives. Depends on your bees and gear. I have hives where when cleaning up in winter and spring I can come up with half an ice cream container of propolis from box rebates, frame shoulders and lugs, and particularly in the hives with plastic frames. That ice cream container is worth $70 - $100 when full.
  17. I carry two or three of these through each winter - they do very well. Surprisingly well in fact. That said, you're a long way south of me.
  18. More likely than what? I use a lot of them. Like them generally... I dislike having lots of different types of equipment, so just adding a divider board and a couple of smaller inner roofs to a standard box, base and lid suits me well. It's a minor nuisance when you end up with one side empty, but I just tend to consolidate two singles back into one box. Lose a few bees to other nucs drifting while they reorient, but hasn't been a big deal.
  19. Dion's username here at NZBees is @Kneeride . Good guy, wouldn't hesitate to recommend him. If you can't get hold of him let me know and I'll get his number from my other half.
  20. Very glad to hear from you. I was wondering how close you might be to the action. Was out on the hives this morning and saw a helicopter with a monsoon attached so I'm guessing things are still pretty busy out there. (I was in the Gimblett Gravels at the time - wasn't sure where it would have been heading).
  21. I think I have a favourite new word. Could probably be used interchangeably with 'Teenager'.
  22. Here's John's submission: I would like to make a few submissions on the five-year plan. Reporting AFB. A friend had to recently report an AFB and he complained to me about how difficult it was to find where to send his report. I had a look myself on the AFB website and found it very difficult to navigate. You must report an AFB to the management agency within seven days but nowhere could I find how to contact the management agency. I believe that api web is being improved and as part of that I would like to see a special box in the AFB website where you could report the details. Step one you find an AFB. Step two you go on the AFB website where you are directed to a box with your name Bill Smith. Your beekeeper registration number e1000. At this point there would be advice on what to do if you don't have a number or can't remember. Your apiary number where the disease was found . Information on how to get onto APi web should be given. Number of hives infected. Whether the hives have been destroyed. If they haven't been destroyed it should be possible to return at a later date to fill in those details. There should also be advice on what to do at times like total fire bands. How bad the infection was i.e. a few cells 10% infection riddled dying dead dead/robbed out. An area for comments such as where the beekeeper believed the infection came from. Neighbouring beekeeper pollination own goal et cetera Honey testing Random testing of honey samples would provide some interesting background information especially on larger beekeeping outfits that seldom or never get inspected. A high spore count might indicate that some random inspection might be in order especially if that beekeeper had never reported any AFB while a negative spore count indicates that things are going well. Recidivist offenders. Training is important but there have always been beekeepers at all levels of the industry who for various reasons are incompetent when it comes to identifying and reporting AFB. I could name five from this area that I have known and I cannot believe that this problem is solely found in Hawke's Bay. In the past help and support was given and helped considerably with the situation but beekeeping appears to be moving away from that model. I'm sure what can be done but perhaps some sort of system with demerit points would be a start. There are unfortunately some people that should not be allowed to keep bees because they will never be competent and you will never eliminate AFB while these people remain. Outbreak response. I don't know if it's possible but I would like to see small teams of experience beekeepers set up to respond to outbreaks outside their own areas so there is no conflict-of-interest. Where a source for the infection is found such as dead robbed out AFB hives I would love to have a system of fines for the perpetrator and reparation for the victims. Full brood inspection. While I agree with Mark Goodwin that a full brood inspection is more likely to pick up a new case of AFB I disagree with the need to do it even when doing official inspections. It may have a place when there has been a bad outbreak but it is very time-consuming and also quite disruptive and somewhat damaging to the hive no matter how careful you are. The emphasis on one annual inspection is also badly misguided. More research could be done but from experience I believe that missing one or two cells even when taking off honey (but not when transferring brood) does not normally lead to more infection and the secret to elimination is to inspect some brood every time you work a hive and by doing this find the infection before it can spread. If every hive in New Zealand had every frame of brood inspected by a competent inspector on the same day once a year it would still not eliminate AFB but it can be eliminated by constant checking and it is far quicker and more effective to check one frame per hive 10 times a year than 10 frames once a year. I have done some inspection as an AP2 and while a full brood inspection on one or two hobbyist hives is not too bad doing the same to an apiary with 40 hives is pretty soul destroying and we could have some better systems such as doing a full inspection on a percentage and if they are negative moving to one frame of brood per brood box for the rest. In conclusion. Some of the above suggestions would be very easy to implement while others are more difficult or radical. I fully support the goal of eliminating AFB and I know from personal experience that it is easily possible for individual beekeepers. I would be more than happy to discuss my ideas or critique the ideas of others. John Berry
  23. She's a hybrid, but there's no way in h I'd call her Italian.
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