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ChrisM last won the day on July 20

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About ChrisM

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    Guard Bee
  • Birthday 22/08/62


  • Swarm Collection Area
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    Seaside Bees
  • DECA Holder
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    Hobby Beekeeper
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  1. Sublimox apf plus

    Agreed, the only issue for me is that I should not let the temperature go below 200C because I have had a blocked exhaust pipe with OA crystal fuzz that caused the cap to pop up in the 25 sec per hive area. But that said 35 sec per hive is still a handy speed. Need a long extension lead to avoid moving the genset, plus need to buy another RCD because my one doesn't go into the black ridge / honda because of the moulding shape and tail lead off the RCD plug.
  2. Sublimox apf plus

    I just tried it again and doesn't work for me either. Here is a link to it on you tube.
  3. polystyrene nucs

    oops, sorry, I had polystyrene mini-mating nuc's in my mind; the tiny little boxes the combs are on top bars and are about ~100mm square. wrong thing entirely.
  4. Sublimox apf plus

    attempting to attach movie of treating Lang with the home made version. The pipe (6mm) is in bee space in centre of double brood box hive. Entrance is not blocked. My Movie 1 - Small.mov
  5. polystyrene nucs

    If they are the ones I've seen the apiflora boxes have a partition for an internal/integral feeder. Is it worthwhile to have a feeder in these nuc's?
  6. Very early DWV

    Formic Acid MAQS pads are not ideal in this case of a potentially sick hive in cold weather, avoid that. Oxalic Acid vapour will cost $150 in setup costs, but is good in cold weather for a small sick hive without much brood, google the venom pro or similar. Bayvarol is your best option for a fast fix, not least because you need time to understand the two above and more time to get organised and more time to experiment with a hive that is not in dire need. It would be worthwhile to have OAV in your tool box next winter/spring.
  7. Avocado Pollination Questions

    I was recently asked about this subject by a friend in the Pongakawa area (between Te Puke and Whakatane). I said that because he was adjacent covered kiwifruit it was likely that the bees for those would be mostly in his avo's and avoiding the kiwifruit as much as possible. with Hicane being splashed around right at the moment and bees coming in later for pollination, the question is whether he really needs to get in extra bees before kiwifruit pollination kicks off. I don't do pollination so I have no vested interest either way. I suppose if he has flowers in October, he should buy some bumbles (?).
  8. GBP is the currency abbreviation for pounds sterling, the currency of Great Britain. But apparently it is the abbreviation for other things too.
  9. There is an email just out, regarding MPI spraying of Te Puke with Agpro Jupiter. @Kiwifruiter, what is that spray? thoughts? could there be also a wet out additive? Can you guys have a look at that Map too? Does this show all the apiaries in Te Puke? Looks like I can see where others are. Is it normal to get a map showing all the apiaries? Do you reckon those RED ones have AFB? Just asking.. Is this map a bit of a breach or balls up? got to be thankful they are not using 1080 I guess :eek: Dear Beekeepers of Te Puke, Please be advised that the area shown on the below map has planned fungicide treatment activities during the next 7 days; The spray being used is a fungicide called Agpro Jupiter. This information is provided to help potentially affected beekeepers make decisions about covering, closing or shifting hives as you consider necessary. We thank you for your assistance during this biosecurity response. Kind regards, The Myrtle Rust Response team. You are receiving this email because you have been identified as a beekeeper with apiaries that may be affected by Myrtle Rust Response treatment activity Our mailing address is: AsureQuality Ltd on behalf of the Ministry for Primary Industry Private bag 3080 Hamilton, Waikato 3240 New Zealand
  10. Willow Booze (Wooze)

    Thinking about one of my favourite topics.. Production of alcohol must be related back to cost of ingredients, whether it be refined white sugar or grape juice. If willow dew honey has enough 'honey' in it then it is left on as feed honey, but some have found 85% of it can't be used by the bees. We are told the problem sugar is melezitose. Does anyone know if it can be fermented to produce alcohol? A friend has his own still and any bad batches of mead or beer are put through the still to at least recover the alcohol. If sugar is $1/kg and willow dew honey is completely worthless and unextractable, then maybe it creates an opportunity between zero and $1 to recover some value by producing hooch or at least to solve a disposal problem. The obvious comparison is the producition of alcohol from whey. Distilling equipment for home use is plentiful on trademe. Is anyone already all over this and able to give advice?
  11. Sublimox apf plus

    I have been using a Sublimox lent to me and have been exploring ways to buy my own. Either a Sublimox or a ProVap 220 (both products are comparable in my opinion). The cheapest price I could find was $655 plus gst including freight for a single unit, though it is possible to pay more. In regards to a large order, there is a substantial price break at only 5 units such that costs would be in the order of $485 each ex-Tauranga if four others joined me. There are further price reductions possible for orders of 10, 20, 30 units, but in case of a large order the main saving less freight per unit. I'm planning on $500 and will be happy with any further savings if they happen. I'm not interested in a hard sell, but they do treat a hive in 25 seconds and you can treat a hive every 35 seconds if you have them lined up. Two of these vapourisers will run together on a Blackridge/Honda 1700W gen/inverter unit typically used for blowers. The Sublimox is rated at 300W. I would consider buying two of these units myself if a pool of people were interested to take it further and the price was reasonable. However, if less than four other people are keen or less than 5 units total, then it won't be viable and so this sale is conditional on others wanting to join. If the number of starters becomes viable then I'll confirm final costs according the size of the order so you can make final decision. I will not make anything from the order, I will gain the same saving as everyone else. We will be pooling our money and all buying this together. It will need to be money up front before I committ to a large order. If you want to register interest in this, you can either send a PM, or comment below and I will PM you. It may be that my webpage and/or email address are visible on my profile page in which case by all means use that. My email address can be clicked from the seaside bees webpage contact. I attach threads leading to this from earlier discussion: Sublimox apf plus https://www.nzbees.net/threads/conversations-what-you-can-and-shouldnt-be-using-them-for.11516/page-2#post-164604
  12. Sublimox apf plus

    Is anyone using a Sublimox apf plus? Roughly how many hives are you managing with it? Would you recommend this to others?
  13. NZBF Sugar Shakes

    Today I did a sugar shake on a hive treated with maqs 4 weeks ago. So, it is three weeks since 'treatment' ended. I use an old maqs container lid to shake the icing sugar / mites on to. Something happened which I have not seen before. The shake yielded about 16 mites, but only 6 of them were alive. The others were at the big end of the mite scale for size and were completely dried out and dead. They actually made a sound when hitting the maqs lid that at first made me think they were grit, tiny rocks or hive trash. On inspection there we hard, dry, dead mites. Does anyone know if it is plausible for treated dead mites to remain on bees and then be dislodged in a sugar shake? It is a new experience for me. To fill my jar up to the line with 1/2 cup bees, I used a stem from a bush to brush some mites off two brood frames. I retreated the hive with another round of maqs.. Does anyone else see dead dried out mites in a sugar shake? If it had been an alcohol wash, I would be none the wiser (?).
  14. This is a home-made queen cell carrier 28x using new parts and follows a thread about building them on the forum. Price is $150 including GST and including delivery in North / South / Rural serviced areas. It uses a 6l warmer bin with a temperature controller plus foam and felt with 28 holes. The controller heats up to 34C and cuts out. The actual temperature in the bin does vary and the floor temperature does overshoot 34C but they work well. Run for at least 1/2hr before required. Please note they are not incubators, this is just a carrier to transport cells from a breeder / finisher to recipient hives; typically less than 48hrs. A warm damp cloth in the base of the carrier is optional if you want to keep humidity. Fairly inexpensive they are a good option for hobbiest bk. Probably not big enough nor tough enough for long term commercial use.
  15. Discussing solid floor and mesh floors I'm interested to know what people use in their top bar hives and why. Particularly if they have used both in their top bar hives and have made a comparison. Our first top bar hive had a mesh floor. After reading on the subject of ventilation and condensation from various sources, the Ed Clark book: Constructive beekeeping : Clark, Ed. H : Free Download & Streaming : Internet Archive being the best. So, subsequently I've not made a mesh bottom top bar hive since and I converted the first one to solid floor about a year or so later. Anecdotally, it appears I am in the minority since most seem to be mesh floors. So, asking top bar hive beekeepers, what is the appeal of a mesh floor? Have you tried both? Migratory Lang beekeepers have a different set of requirements keeping bees cool and contained during transport. I'm only talking about top bar hives fixed in a permanent apiary.