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John T

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John T last won the day on March 19 2015

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About John T

  • Rank
    Pupa

Converted

  • DECA Holder
    No
  • Beekeeping Experience
    Hobby Beekeeper

Location

  • Location
    Marlborough

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  1. The Marlborough Beekeepers Association will be hosting a workshop for experienced beekeepers (both hobby and commercial) on Sunday 16 September, at the Marlborough Research Centre, Budge Street, Blenheim, 9.45am to 3pm. (Talks begin at 10am.) The workshop is open to anyone interested in bees but is essentially geared towards those with beekeeping experience (rather than 'newbees'). Guest speakers are Dr Megan Taylor, US Queen Breeder (now based in NZ) and Frank Lindsay, retired commercial beekeeper and author of "About The Apairy". Megan will talk about queens, exotic pests and splitting hives. Frank will talk about record keeping, varroa and practicalities of hive management. There will be demonstrations at the club's hives. There will be a Q + A session at the end, including a panel with local beekeepers. Costs: $30 for MBA members and $45 for non-members. New members welcome. Bookings required, please email marlboroughbeekeepers@gmail.com MBA will provide refreshments, but attendees will need to bring their own lunch.
  2. John T

    Watch what you say.

    These traps are said to be the best - get the DOC 200 version: http://www.cmisprings.com/predatortraps.html Box design (but you can buy them, trap included, all ready to go): https://www.doc.govt.nz/documents/conservation/threats-and-impacts/animal-pests/doc200-predator-trap.pdf Bait (the advert says they last for three weeks but I find they can last up to five weeks - give them a buffing up to freshen them when they start to look stale): https://www.traps.co.nz/mustilid-cat-bait-approx-100-per-kg But you could try raw or dried meat - especially rabbit - the mustelids may go for these. We've not tried these. I don't work for the two above companies but I am a volunteer at a wetland restoration project. In fact, yesterday it was my turn to check a trap line - two large ship rats were caught.
  3. John T

    Moving Hives - Help

    Is it possible to access the site via a neighbouring property, if there is one?
  4. John T

    Conference- anyone going?

    It was good to catch up with Desmo. I did see Glynn, he may remember me as the usher who passed him the mike at the end of Sue Coby's talk.
  5. No, I didn't control the temperature. I just waited and watched...It was a bit of a cool day so that may have helped.
  6. Apologies, I keep meaning to give an update. Yes, I followed the advice given above - I let the wax cool, until a skin formed on the surface. No more cracks on the surface. However, one minor issue is that with the wax starting to cool some wax remained in the pot - ie it wasn't fluid enough to pour it all out. But that's not a biggie, as it it can be re-melted again. I guess it's just a matter of melting more wax than you need, to allow for this.
  7. John T

    Wasps and bad advice

    A couple of years ago I was in the Mega Mitre 10 shop looking at poison powder for wasps. While I was reading the label a staff member comes up to me and says that I could add jam to the powder. I was shocked. I told her, no, don't tell the customers that, that would attract and kill bees. I'd have thought that labels on containers for wasp poison should say that any sugar based substance should not be added to the poison.
  8. I have been melting wax and putting them into moulds or pots but unfortunately when the wax sets, it splits or cracks at the surface. See the pic below. How do I prevent this from happening? I'd like to have a smooth top surface. I note in the "Practical Bee..." book it says that if 'wax cools rapidly the blocks will crack.' I have been doing this on warm/hot days so not sure what the solution is, apart from a warm-turned-off oven which I don't think is ideal. Thanks.
  9. John T

    Organic beekeepers required

    Shouldn't Asure Quality have on their website a list of companies or their products that have been organically certified or somesuch? Surely this would be an easier way to check?
  10. John T

    Anyone know beekeeper L121?

    Tell AsureQuality. They can contact the owners and tell them about the hives.
  11. John T

    New Zealand swarm dates for season 2017/18

    Not a swarm capture report, but I'm on a road trip in the north island. Today, while travelling in the back country I was surprised to find a small swarm on a DOC sign. There was a group of young german travellers who came over for a look. I explained briefly about these swarms. (Hope these pics come thru, first time ever done on smartphone. ) Edit to add. Obviously there was nothing I could do about the swarm so left them to it.
  12. John T

    Extraction Honesty

    Slightly off topic, but given the price of wax, do the extractors keep the wax or is it returned to you? (in some form or other).
  13. Hi @frazzledfozzle thanks for that. That top one is a bad placement. The other photo already has one strip removed, not sure where that one was. In the last few weeks some new frames have been added, to give the queen more space - not sure if the frames with the strips were pushed outwards. Anyway, all the strips are now out. Thanks to all the others for their advice. I agree with Tristan that I may be ruining a good hive, however, there's lots more bees on the frames. Anyway, I did the split this morning, as the queen had arrived. If the potentially erratic queen does in fact turn out to be a bad layer, perhaps I could just merge the two hives together. Thanks, and have a good weekend.
  14. Thanks Yesbut. Is this box you mention to go above or below the excluder? there's already two boxes of (mostly empty, just starting to get nectar) supers. OK, I'll try to see if I can shift some frames around. (The current queen has been eractic in her laying, but I think she's come right, hence the splitting. I'm going out now to check.) Thanks.
  15. One of my hives looks like it has too many bees (see pics, #1 is the top brood box, #2 is the bottom brood box). So, for the first time ever, I have to split the hive. But I'm not getting a new queen till friday or saturday, and to prevent the hive from swarming (it's a warm sunny day here, ideal swarm conditions), is it safe to split the hive today or tomorrow and wait for the new queen? Or do the split only when I can add the new queen immediately? I'll be shifting the hive to a different location while waiting for the new queen, and it will remain on this new site for a while. Thanks. JT
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