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John T

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John T last won the day on March 19 2015

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About John T

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    Pupa

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  • Beekeeping Experience
    Hobby Beekeeper

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    Marlborough

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  1. Found this old thread on Tanalith E, now closed: https://www.nzbees.net/forums/topic/4224-tunnicliffes-tan-e-boxes/?tab=comments#comment-64325 Is there an update, whether the use of Tanalith E is safe to use in hive boxes? Thanks.
  2. Hi @kevin moore, no, not making foundation but I have thought about it - especially since I thought wax prices were going up (still?). Someone here a few years ago was making foundation and was going to offer them for sale - I will have to do a search for that thread. But here's the link the of the mould making process I think the forum member was using: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4j35YXwcP2E It seems since then, there are new Youtubes on making foundation. Thanks to this thread, I'm now re-looking into this issue. Found the thread - here - https://www.nzbees.net/forums/topic/7959-silicon-moulds-small-cell-for-casting-foundation/?tab=comments#comment-122892 @Matthew Brajkovich and @HSV_Darren, are you still around? A correction - I was meant to say: Someone here a few years ago was making foundation MOULD and was going to offer them for sale - I will have to do a search for that thread.
  3. @Mummzie, I am sure you can purify your wax as much as possible to be of a commercial standard. The trick is to melt the wax 3-4 times, and scraping off the gunk (when the wax is cold) from the bottom of the wax each time. Initially, for the first two steps (or three, if you like), the wax is melted in water (use boiling water from the jug to speed up the melting). Strain the molten wax through a wire mesh with approx 1mm square holes (heat the mesh prior to pouring), and for the latter stages I do the double boiler method, and again, I scrape off the gunk from the bottom of the wax. The final pour goes into silver lined containers (eg milk, fruit juice etc containers - the wax doesn't stick to the sides) - put in half a cup of boiling water first. Once cold, peel off the cardboard. There should be little or no gunk at the bottom - scrape off and/or melt again if needed. A tip I learnt from asking a question on here - to prevent the wax from cracking, let the hot wax cool till there's a sheen on the surface in the pot before the final pour. I did try straining molten wax through muslin cloth, but while this worked okay, this left with wax stuck to the cloth which was hard to scrape off and hence wasted. Better to use metal mesh. There's some Youtubes on melting wax should you be interested.
  4. The Marlborough Beekeeping Association will be hosting a honey tasting workshop, on Thursday 25th April at the Marlborough Research Centre, 7-9pm. This will be presented by Maureen Maxwell, international honey judge. Further details on our Facebook page. All welcome.
  5. Suggest you make contact with Kerry - contact details in this list. http://www.chchbeekeepers.org.nz/swarms
  6. From Vespex site: What protein bait should I use for the wasp activity testing? We recommend a plain raw protein such as fish offcuts, chicken, or rabbit meat. You can also use tinned salmon or tuna, but make sure these are canned in water (not oil) and that they are plain fish with no added flavours. https://www.merchento.com/vespex_faq.html#q14
  7. Don't all rush in, but the book is also available in the small number of libraries in this link. https://tepuna.on.worldcat.org/oclc/156767634 Perhaps you could try the interloan services? (If you don't want to wait for Yesbut's book.)
  8. The Marlborough Beekeepers Association will be hosting a workshop for experienced beekeepers (both hobby and commercial) on Sunday 16 September, at the Marlborough Research Centre, Budge Street, Blenheim, 9.45am to 3pm. (Talks begin at 10am.) The workshop is open to anyone interested in bees but is essentially geared towards those with beekeeping experience (rather than 'newbees'). Guest speakers are Dr Megan Taylor, US Queen Breeder (now based in NZ) and Frank Lindsay, retired commercial beekeeper and author of "About The Apairy". Megan will talk about queens, exotic pests and splitting hives. Frank will talk about record keeping, varroa and practicalities of hive management. There will be demonstrations at the club's hives. There will be a Q + A session at the end, including a panel with local beekeepers. Costs: $30 for MBA members and $45 for non-members. New members welcome. Bookings required, please email marlboroughbeekeepers@gmail.com MBA will provide refreshments, but attendees will need to bring their own lunch.
  9. These traps are said to be the best - get the DOC 200 version: http://www.cmisprings.com/predatortraps.html Box design (but you can buy them, trap included, all ready to go): https://www.doc.govt.nz/documents/conservation/threats-and-impacts/animal-pests/doc200-predator-trap.pdf Bait (the advert says they last for three weeks but I find they can last up to five weeks - give them a buffing up to freshen them when they start to look stale): https://www.traps.co.nz/mustilid-cat-bait-approx-100-per-kg But you could try raw or dried meat - especially rabbit - the mustelids may go for these. We've not tried these. I don't work for the two above companies but I am a volunteer at a wetland restoration project. In fact, yesterday it was my turn to check a trap line - two large ship rats were caught.
  10. Is it possible to access the site via a neighbouring property, if there is one?
  11. It was good to catch up with Desmo. I did see Glynn, he may remember me as the usher who passed him the mike at the end of Sue Coby's talk.
  12. No, I didn't control the temperature. I just waited and watched...It was a bit of a cool day so that may have helped.
  13. Apologies, I keep meaning to give an update. Yes, I followed the advice given above - I let the wax cool, until a skin formed on the surface. No more cracks on the surface. However, one minor issue is that with the wax starting to cool some wax remained in the pot - ie it wasn't fluid enough to pour it all out. But that's not a biggie, as it it can be re-melted again. I guess it's just a matter of melting more wax than you need, to allow for this.
  14. A couple of years ago I was in the Mega Mitre 10 shop looking at poison powder for wasps. While I was reading the label a staff member comes up to me and says that I could add jam to the powder. I was shocked. I told her, no, don't tell the customers that, that would attract and kill bees. I'd have thought that labels on containers for wasp poison should say that any sugar based substance should not be added to the poison.
  15. I have been melting wax and putting them into moulds or pots but unfortunately when the wax sets, it splits or cracks at the surface. See the pic below. How do I prevent this from happening? I'd like to have a smooth top surface. I note in the "Practical Bee..." book it says that if 'wax cools rapidly the blocks will crack.' I have been doing this on warm/hot days so not sure what the solution is, apart from a warm-turned-off oven which I don't think is ideal. Thanks.
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