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MackAp

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MackAp last won the day on February 25 2014

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  • Beekeeping Experience
    Commercial Beekeeper

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  • Location
    Whakatane

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  1. Thank you for your replies Maggie. Im not out to get one over the queen breeder, just want to learn and not make the same mistake again if it is something I have done wrong. I did not check for queen cells when I put the cages in, I didnt think they would build cells within 4 hours - my bad . But I did check and tear cells after the 5 days when I had to manually release the queens because the bees did not chew through the candy. Usually I dont take the empty cage out until day 10 to make sure they havnt built any cells after the cage has gone in and before a virgin can emerge if they have. It
  2. I advised the breeder of what happened, he asked how long after making split were cages put in. When I said same day, which is what I have always done, he said there was my problem, that I should have waited at least over night preferably 2 nights. He also mentioned maybe my angry bees balled the queen?
  3. The split was into a full depth brood box taken away to a new site and mated queen introduced. Split was 3 or 4 frames of brood and a couple of frames of honey/pollen. Im not sure why the candy was rock hard. In my experience there is always no or very little candy left.
  4. Hi Guys, What is everyones opinion or knowledge of research as to when to introduce queen cage after making a split? So if I made up 20 splits on a Monday morning, how long would I wait to introduce a mated queen in a cage. A few hours, overnight, couple of days??? Over the years I have usually done the same day or the next day and never noticed any issues. Reason I ask is I recently made up 20 splits and introduced some caged mated queens after about 4 hours. I went back after 5 days and 8 of the 20 queens were still in cages. Escort bees dead for these queens still trapped. Th
  5. Glad to see its serving you well Maru. Crane is definitely handy. I used it to lift a piano into my house.
  6. I used my crane scales to weigh pallets of hives before going onto Manuka. 4 hives on a pallet, with single brood, excluder and 2 f/d supers (wets - no honeys) weighed around 260kgs fairly consistently between the pallets, and yes I zeroed the scales with the forks on. You might have 1 less box per hive but will probably have honey/pollen so may end up being about the same anyway. My pallets are fairly heavy, bearers running both directions (for chopper strapping). Hope this helps.
  7. Have just emailed you. Cheers
  8. Hi @Philbee, I have just put another round of your staples into my trial yards. I haven't got around to doing mite counts yet, but have not noticed any mites in brood I have uncapped, and brood and bees in General are looking good although as expected brood starting to dwindle back as queens go off the lay. As of now, considering feedback from customers and your own usage of the staples, can you confirm what the 'go to' staple is that you and people are trending towards, how many staples per hive you are recommending to insert and current cost per staple. I'm just trying to ge
  9. @Adam Boot You mention you were looking for good quality Manuka to keep up with demand? I have 9 tonne UMF 15+, passes all MPI standards, low C4. Let me know if you are interested. Just organising another round of tests to get up to date NPA etc.
  10. Have checked back through hives again. No dead outs (I was expecting a couple by the look of them last time). All hives are looking much more settled - bees clustering on brood and enough bees to cover what brood there is. The stronger looking (numbers wise) hives have a nice solid brood pattern. Weaker hives have a bit of a shotgun pattern, but queen laying in all the holes. Its almost as though they have opened and removed anything sick, cleaned the cell and she has laid in there again. AFB checked all hives again - OK. I have moved staples that are not covering anything (bees moved away fr
  11. Thanks for all the replies. I ended up getting a pair of polarised sunglasses with amber coloured lens (Dirty dog) for $40.00. Have worn them everyday beekeeping since. The amber lens lightens up my vision when looking at frames all day, better than the green or grey lens which is a bit too dark for me. Polarising really helps with the glare.
  12. @Philbee I weighed the staples left in the bucket, last 2 and a half layers. They all weighed either 29 or 30 grams. Amazing how they were all pretty much the same weight like you said they would be!!
  13. I am always squinting hard out when beekeeping and the glare on a sunny day can be quite severe. However my current sunglasses which do cut the glare are a bit dark to see through and the veil seems to make this darkening worse. Can anyone suggest a good type of sunglasses that blocks all the uv rays, cuts out the glare and produce a light clear vision?
  14. Went to the 2 other ox/gly treated sites yesterday. 1st site, Alcohol washed 3 random hives. counts of 21, 5, 1. A reduction in bee numbers, not enough bees covering brood. But the reduction in numbers was no where near as obvious as the site from the day before. Queens still laying. 2nd site that only has 4 hives and were pumping last time I went through them (ie wall to wall with bees with 5-6 frames brood). Alc washed 2 hives. Counts of 2, 3. These hives are down 1 or 2 seams of bees depending on the hive. But still got bees covering all brood and look a lot better than the other
  15. @Philbee Mate, this forum thread is about ox and gly. And a lot of it is about your gib staples method. Again Im not knocking it. Just sharing my experience with it so you and others who have used this method could give me some advice from what I have seen so far. And some of the advice given makes sense. I hope you arent taking this personally. Just wanted to share my experience so far and get help. Hope this doesnt mean you are going to charge me double next time
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