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fieldbee last won the day on August 13 2019

fieldbee had the most liked content!

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About fieldbee

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  1. @manz did you get any of them back in the end or had he moved them all on.
  2. Ive nearly finished burning 50 rotten bases off the trailer........silly me.
  3. Your comments are interesting to me. As I note that you put strips in for 4 weeks then removed them and put another round in then removed them , then you removed all strips. I put strips in for over 8 weeks renewed the few that got eaten, and had strips left in far longer than you, weak hives still have them in. We only have started taking them out where we have been having requeening issues. We both have used strips but our protocols are different. However we are noticing queen issues and I am wondering if it is the year and not totally the strips, (although I do think the strips do have some effect on some queens and some requeening) but not all and not the greater number just a substantial number. Some hives have requeened with no issues. So wondering what we are missing. Could be merit in someones comments about oxyalic effecting queens feet. However this is all conjecture.
  4. We had some thick rubber lying around so put that under the tent and the old duvets on the top.
  5. Oops sorry didnt mean that to be misleading. I tested a few years ago before I tried OA. No I wanted to know what was in those dying hives. However I know that I have lost some hives to Corrorapa this year when using OA.
  6. Cost is the reason when incomes have dropped. But that is how we tested a few years ago. Staff bought back hives with a handful of bees and a queen still trying to lay, chilled brood because of a rapidly decreased labour force over a 3 week period. I took a few sample of bees and queens from the group and and sent them for testing. John for Dnature choose to single the queens out of the group and tested them himself but shared the results. The queens were good (pathogen free) the bees had a mix of Lotmaria Passim and Nosema cereane in high loadings. I also cut out some comb from the brood area where the dwindling was. That tested high for the nasties as did the bees. That is why I heat treat my cororapa boxes. I only heat treat good boxes and dead brood frames and black wax get steam water blasted and rewaxed. We didnt have a heat room. I discovered indooor growing tents so for $500 I got a 2metre square one. It can soften 4 drums of honey at a time for farmers honey and I stack boxes in 4 stacks 5 high using my wooden entrance blockers to seperate each box. I have the air circulating and using an oil heater and a little fan heater. It used to take me about 24 hours to get the temperatures up there. now someone leant me some old growing bulbs (they conduct a different heat) The combination of the heaters and the bulbs means the job is done in about 10 hours. crude I know but cheap is what I have wanted and get the job done. I also have a growing fan circulating the air. I bought the cheapest tent but from what I understand I could have bought the more expensive brand and would have better insulation, and those ones are twice the price. Heat loss is not something I want with the tent set up in the big cold shed in the middle of winter. The tent gets put up in the shed in a corner each winter and taken down before honey starts. Every stack of boxesis separate to have air circulating. I did this because of James Sainsburys work on heating boxes.
  7. Hi @ Stoney why spring? Curious. do you use them only in spring?
  8. @john berry numerous years ago we bought in hives checked but they started showing up with AFB. Got very good at burning. Because of our situation started burning hives individually in a old honey drum. You don't need holes in it for air. Keep everything contained the fire destroys everything. Kill the bees off and do it a box at a time then the base etc. have the hose nearby running so that if anyone questions you, you have proof of being careful and I do it on dusk and into the night when the wind is down. have always had hives within a 200 m range of the fire drum and never picked up AFB from the drum. Don't need to dig a hole and fill in in. seldom used now and for one I wouldn't bother with a permit unless everything was tinder dry.. If I had a lot of hives to burn and it was burning big for a few days I would think of getting one. However the fire will burn down and be contained in the the drum but quietly burn away upto 2 days after the last box is in. Because of the nature of the material no sparks come out. I have flammable things (shed etc) within 80 metres, it is about being careful., and don't pile the drum up so that burning bits fall out you want everything contained in the drum. Oh and if you use petrol to kill the bees you don't put the box in the drum, you develop a good aim, throw it as close to in as is possible and have an old spade to help leaver the box etc right in when it has burst into flame. Hope I haven't missed anything.
  9. Yes correct @Alastair, of the few that got over nibbled an extra one was put in its place. but we also have this year gone to a two high brood box. we approached striping those a couple of different ways. 1. the ones that were very strong close to two boxes of bees - first strips in mid - end of august, still single brood box, when it was time to pull excluder as bottom box full of brood, due to large number of bees in 2nd box 2-3 stapples put in the top box (about to become a brood box) with the pulling of the excluder. 2. Weaker hives building up single brood box now full of bees but needing a super (some of those strips not in till early- mid october) put super on then back 10-14 days and put strips in top box according to brood numbers, and added another strip if felt needed on next round all depended on number of brood frames. By this time some had a decent early flow limiting the space for brood laying in the 2nd brood box.
  10. Hi @Otto. Storage of staples. Do I understand your comments to mean that you had some left over staples that you hadn't used in the autumn but they had oxalyic on and you didn't use them in hives until the spring? I had some left over from autumn, and was warned to be careful using them as we dont know how useful (stable) the mix would still be. I used them in hives close to home so I could monitor them and also only put in enough for the brood size and kept adding as the brood expanded. My closer to home sites are not so good, lack of pollen and food supply so reliant on my topping up with the artificials, (syrup and polen sub) was slack with those as I was busy selling hives off the better sites (reducing hive numbers), have also reduced staff. (so some jobs were late.) Some of these sites had some hives with high mite numbers as I had done some random alcohol washes on each site. These hives were mostly not my better hives. Overall I am happy that the solution still worked after winter as these hives are doing well. With the odd one losing a queen or going backwards, but I know why and no better or worse than my other hives treated with this springs fresh solution. I ask what your results are as I was busy and monitored other hives more closely but will write about that sometime over the weekend. I over ordered my strips and would like to use them in the autumn, but it will have to be on sites closer to home that I can monitor more often. Your small and mitey hives. I had some full of Deformed wing virus I put DWV on the lid. After 1 month of treatment they had improved so much the buyer took them. He and his staff carefully inspected each hive and he only took the best, rejected a number for different reasons. His comments you don't have mite damage in your hives. I told him you realize you have taken 2 hives off this site that a month ago were full of DWV. He was only taking hives with a box of bees and at least 4 frames of brood early sept. It was a fair number he bought. Yesterday I supered up another that had DWV on its lid from the early spring it was 2 full boxes of bees and brood and had probably at least 3 frames of brood out to keep to a 2 high and was back on its honey site after doing pollination. I am very happy with what these strips do to a hive with DWV, I do believe through quick general observations that the sick bees are got rid of very quickly once the staples go in, but this is my surmising and I realize from others comments on the forum that there may also be a loss of what most of us would call ok bees, Oh and not a varroa in site when I split the double brood box, happy bees.
  11. Oh dear @jamesc i do have to say that if you had sent your samples to @JohnF your results would be available ages ago. My results from John have always be fast.
  12. thanks @Philbee do you achieve it by pulling out all and replacing them as Alastair has done or do you just replace the holey chewed ones
  13. Oh I only replace mine if they are well chewed, @Philbee can you give your opinion.
  14. Excuse my ignorance but why did you replace them?
  15. Hi @Alastair I think @Phillbee recommends the strips in for 2 brood cycles. Will you be doing an alcohol wash or sticky board drop to see what you varroa levels are.
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