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Everything posted by Sailabee

  1. I think that one of the hidden problems in Auck is that with a large number of new beeks from countries where AFB is routinely treated with antibiotics. There seem to be no Assure Quality random assays for antibiotics in hives carried out in areas with a high AFB toll reported, and those treated hives have recovering bees working the same areas as other bees.
  2. NAIT tags now law for cattle are available in pre-ordered runs with the owners individual ID number encoded in it. Would need different plastic shape to embed in wood, but the same system - why reinvent the wheel. Most would not need to own a reader - could be available for farmers with them or Assure quality etc.
  3. Ohh that we had that here - would be worth the grief of branding to get a result. Providing that they were prosecuted and named!
  4. As the present system has staunchly refrained from prosecuting, will that suddenly change? Has anyone factored in the cost of translating everything into a plethora of languages as it is unreasonable to expect everyone to communicate in one language only. Are there systems being implemented that would preclude first year beeks sourcing nucs from all and sundry, aiming to reach eighty hives - often with no experience - but done six theory only 2 hour classes, and too busy collecting newly purchased nucs to attend any club days at an apiary. These are not one-offs, but happening regularly - we have a perfect storm for AFB brewing in Jafaland! What is going to be in the new system that will change any of this? I get the distinct impression that as long as it is the hobbyists being impacted, nothing is going to change.One vote will do squiddly squat.
  5. Particularly those who work over new beeks and turn less than 50 hives into a very lucrative living - a new type of 'commercial' beek. Just wait until the manuka bubble bursts - and it surely will - will become equally crowded sector.
  6. Likewise, as a hobbyist, basically, combining two groups of like businesses is in no way a good fit for my interests. One vote would be the same as a cheap gag. At present, in Jafaland, action over AFB and similar things takes forever - months, not days, and commercials seem to have teflon immunity to prosecution even where there are long-term breaches of the law. Meanwhile, hobbyists who pay top dollar for all their gear have very expensive fires. Can't see this new body being more proactive, some of them are the problem beeks.
  7. So the good folks at Ruakura have now approved the use of the OA vapour? I know the drizzle is legal, but had not heard that the vapor system had been added to the list.
  8. Earlier this year in the wild wild west of Jafaland a former commercial beek employee, after a break from beeking bought hives - 5 I think, and was told by vendor only able to be on property where sited for twenty minutes to remove, so paid and picked up. NEXT DAY - looked, and two with full on AFB. Burnt all - the vendor had recently had confirmed AFB. I would see name and shame and prosecute as fair and reasonable.
  9. Did Assure Quality turn up,confirm the AFB, and then take legal action against the seller, or did they leave you as the innocent party to 'suck it up'. There have been endless cases of people knowingly selling infected hives, and no one is prosecuted. How well is that working? Feel gutted for you Maja.
  10. The cost is determined to a certain extent on how much you learn how to do properly yourself - and the details of this are best gained from experienced beeks - this is not covered properly at classes - they are more for the 'buy it all predone' brigade. Stick to Langstroth sizes in everything. Attending club days will quickly tell you who shares the good info - I still use the seven skew nails down each full depth box corner I learnt there likewise the assembly of frames in a jig I got the design of at a club day. I borrowed a bee veil, took the pattern off, and made one - and it is now six years of hammering old, and never has a bee got in. I joined the club in April, and by the time I caught the swarms in early November, had the gear, knowledge and experience at club days to be able to comfortably capture them. Those selling the expensive nucs - up to $485 last spring will not be the ones to really help you - that is their core business and spring is their busy time - they make a buck and move on to the next nubeek. There are still a pool of those with the ethics to sell and mentor the nubeeks - may you find one if it comes to that! Be patient, now is not the time to get a colony - wait til spring, it takes that long to make an informed start, and that is not defined by how much money you throw at it.
  11. Personally, would advise going to bee club and get up close and personal with the hives which is included in your membership. The hive managers are generally excellent. Read everything, particularly "Practical Beekeeping in NZ', the AFB yellow book, and the green book by Dr Mark Goodwin on Varroa. Spent your money on these three, and keep going back to them - they will stand you in better stead than the classes, and start with a standard Langstroth hive - there are far more people able to advise you when you think you have a problem. The classes are a 'right little earner' for some. Tutors are also trying to sell you topbars, nucs etc. I had a wide network of people who knew I wanted a swarm, so with that learnt at club days, and intensive reading, started with swarms I captured myself.
  12. More like mini garden shed - minus the gnomes, with no front.
  13. As a rural hobbyist, I have made a drop over shelter for nucs with 40 mm styrene, sides, top and back, with about 30 mm clearance all round, and brick on top. Provides insulation with ventilation. Need to use hot gun glue or water based adhesive - and in a hurry have used 4 inch nails just pushed in.
  14. Often sheet polystyrene offcuts are free on construction sites, and builders are grateful to find a home for it.
  15. We hobbyists often forget that the total number of hours we have our 'heads in a hive' in a year is way less than a full time new commercial employee gets in the first month. Theory is very important, but the 'head in a hive' time cannot be obtained instantly. The seasonal changes with the variations from year to year aren't instantly grasped either. The percentages that the commercials provide here are invaluable, and the effects of treatments and their timing are a big part of the picture, so more info is essential for them to help you.
  16. Would suggest that you don't dilute before actually needing it as the higher the concentration, the less any greebies can grow in the solution - higher osmotic pressure at the greater concentration works to your advantage.
  17. If you have a refractometer, you could keep on adding water until you reach the desired percentage.
  18. I find American stuff is often confusing as they have their own 'special' gallons etc., not Imperial as we used before we went metric.
  19. Brix of 67 = 67% sugar currently. To dilute to 50%, 67 divide by 50 = 1.340, so need to add 340 gms of water to one kilo of 67% sugar solution. Other way of looking at it, it is 17% too strong, and as 17 is a third of the desired 50%, so dilute by one third.
  20. This plant is called 'Wormwood' by organic gardeners in NZ, and put the leaves in the chook nesting boxes to help reduce red mite. Grows easily from cuttings. I have tried it under hive lid, but have yet to work out a suitable way to place leaves closer to brood chamber. Egyptian researchers have trialed preparations made from the flowers to treat varroa.
  21. When the new laws controlling the sale of herbicides came into effect some ten years ago, in the first year alone, sales dropped nationally some 30%, and are still consistently dropping. The greatest reduction is in the agricultural and horticultural areas. Farmers do generally 'get it'.
  22. I am rural, and as a hobbyist, always have 2 brood boxes, all year round unless something goes amiss. In town, hives are more protected, so may be different. If you loose a queen, or have prolonged bad weather, that extra box of brood/food is a hive saver. I am not keeping bees to make money, so choose a conservative path - would only ever consider feeding as a last resort - a sure sign I had earlier got something very wrong.
  23. I have a single prototype of a FD plastic super which was being developed by the original owner of Beetek. They can be carted as a flat pack and quickly assembled/collapsed. Would see them as invaluable as a honey super, as easy to clean etc. I use wood/wax brood, plastic honey frames.
  24. For the sportsman, carry a small clear jar with a teaspoon of Carbaryl in with cap on when in the garden. Capture wasps in jar, give a good shake to coat, and release. Now, covered in white, easier to follow, but best of all, when they die in the nest, they are eaten by the rest, so recycling the Carbaryl. Met a retired beek who had run out of good supply of wasp volunteers.
  25. Olivia's Magic Brew Dissolve one cup of sugar in one cup of water, add half a cup of any type of vinegar, and one chopped up banana skin. Make a hole about 25 mm in diameter about 80-100 mm down from the top of a one and a half litre or bigger bottle (with top on), and add the brew. Takes about 2 days to start working. Attracts wax moth as well - bonus!
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