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Wannabee

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Wannabee last won the day on April 28 2016

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About Wannabee

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    Egg

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    Hobby Beekeeper

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    Christchurch

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  1. Thanks all. Yes, getting a little late but our area still has lots of boys out and about. Re eggs - next season i might do some trials. Given only eggs might have a different outcome than offering them eggs and larva. Just curious . Cheers.
  2. Hi all. I have made up a swarm box to use as a cell builder/starter hive. Has water, honey, pollen and feed. Question is, how long can i keep it like this? Released queen from jenter after 24 hrs, lots of eggs. Went to graft 3 days later and no larva but more eggs. Swarm box has been made up for 48 hours now. Another question .... Can I graft eggs with the jenter??. Will they be accepted? Lots of conflicting reports. Thanks
  3. All 3 colonies in the same box will happily share a super (with QE added of course). That way they will store above, leaving more room to lay below. I over winter x2 4 framed nucs in a box this way. They use their own honey and stay warmer too. Have never had to feed and they come out of winter ready to hit ground running.
  4. Absolutely it will work! Agree, very hard to wait. Seeing eggs on your next check will be the best new year present ever. All the very best. You sound like a caring responsible bee keeper. By the way - I am 100% 3/4 frames too and will never go back - have fun
  5. Hi Darren. If the queen in your nuc is your only one, I would eer on the side of caution and cage her when combining. Before you do though, go through failing hive carefully to make sure there is no queen then transfer your nuc into a a full sized box and combine with paper. You could always put a queen excluder between them too just in case you missed the suspect queen. The girls should favour the strong queen and dispatch the failing one. Sounds like there is no longer a vaiable queen in full depth hive though. As good queen is protected, 1 sheet of paper with slit will be fine. Release queen after 12-24 hours once everyone is getting on. Leave for a day or two then check good queen is laying. Good luck. Keep us posted.
  6. My 2 cents worth. I'm not experienced but decided right at the beginning to run only 3/4 boxes. I use x2 3/4 for brood. Tried 3 once as an old timer told me 2 was not enough. The queen did move up and lay but then left the bottom. 3/4 means you can move honey frames down if need be - not the other way round though. My advive, x2 3/4 or x1 full :-). Good luck with which ever way you decide.
  7. You will be able to see from the look of them. Large, raised capped brood are drone. Smaller, flatter are worker. All drone brood = unmated/poorly mated queen or laying worker.
  8. So much honey and pollen on board it's not funny. Think I might add a frame of brood to see if she starts again. Very strong, healthy hive. Plan b, combine. Thanks all.
  9. Hi all. Writing this with tiny phone and fat fingers so please forgive. Checked x2 big and 4 nucs yesterday and removed bav strips. The Queen in 1 big hive has completely ceased laying. There was 1 remaining capped cell which i flicked the top off. Was a healthy worker so q stopped laying a month ago. Polished cells in good pattern and q wandering around as usual. What the heck is going on. Other hives going crazy with brood, pollen and honey. Too late in season to add frame and produce mated queen? Thanks for any advice.
  10. Hi folks. Happy New Year. The mites are beginning to build up again in my backyard hives. I've put a drawn out green drone frame in each to trap them but never sure exactly how long to leave them in to get the best result. Obviously too long and I'm adding to the problem - to little and the female mite hasn't laid. Optimal time from green drawn out drone frame going in to removing please. Thanks
  11. Hi Jamie. Welcome to the forum. I'm in Chch too and try to make it to the BeeClub field days when I can. Maybe bump into you there. What part of town are you in?
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