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GoED last won the day on March 15

GoED had the most liked content!

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About GoED

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  1. @HSV_Darren and other interested people...the treesforbees.org website has excellent information on plants that give the bees most benefit as forage sources. Go to Publications section. Scroll down to Pollen Protein Content PDF and Star Performers. All information given is accurate and helpful but has not been added to since 2014.
  2. Welcome back @Manfred. I have one of your fantastic left handed Jakels and a Rauchboy -Still my pride and joy. We drove up from Puhoi to collect them in about 2014. I’m sorry to hear you had a reaction a sting it must have been soon after my purchases and very frightening. Knowing where you live, if you do get stung, be prepared to ‘make a scene’, don’t ‘tough it out’, inject, consider getting straight in the car as passenger and driven towards nearest emergency help via a route with cell phone coverage, its either that or the Westpac helicopter .... —always make sure your wife is home and within 2 minutes of you when you work the hive, phones in pockets, car ready to go on the driveway, drill agreed This what reduced my own sting events - mind you I’m a beginner... —look before you touch hiveware, each side as you put your hand on -take the maximum dose of antihistamine daily. 20mg. -always have a lit smoker wafting smoke gently near hive entrance -don’t take a frame out if a line of guard bees are eyeballing you, gently apply smoke until all eyes are turned away from the beekeeper. -take your time, with leather gloves on you will be less sensitive to causing the bees physical damage when you take frames out. -If they ping me its always my fault and I have caused it.....usually -without gear on, no smoke, at dusk when I’m tidying up with the apiary too much speed and confidence after opening hives earlier -I cause alarm with a naked hands sudden appearance under an empty hive floor -I haven’t looked before I touched - no gear on, no smoke. Duh. -replacing metal lids and I didn’t look at the handle grip or hive lid before I slipped my fingers into it. Doh. -basically over confidence and laziness, when I have Not put my gear back on to finish off clean up around the home apiary later in the day I’m getting better at listening to their patient warnings and backing off when bees crash into my veil, and seeing guardbees on alert giving me the evils from the top of frames ( Randy Olivers first year beekeeping notes scientific beekeeping, images of guard bees eyeballing the beekeeper from the frame -classic...but obviously not the ‘get stings regularly’ method that works for him) Hoping all goes well Manfred, I have seen how much you love beekeeping. Yes Epipen! First things first
  3. That’s sounds positive 😊 My hollyhocks won’t even bloom this year.... Yes it would be easy to put your panic pants on if you saw purple pupa and dark brood for the first time. 😳This forum is gold. I wonder what the biochemistry is. That’s really useful for a new Beek to know thank you @john berry
  4. I realise things can go pear shaped at any time, but what a relief to begin to understand my role.
  5. @black bee do the bees gather just nectar from Koromiko or also pollen? If they do gather pollen now in late March, did you see what colour it is in their pollen baskets? What colour is Koromiko honey? Do the bees work the Koromiko in the Winter too in Coromandel? Any help appreciated.....😊 I’m painting a pollen colour chart and the only book on NZ native plants useful to bees is Walsh, R.S, ‘Pollen and Nectar sources of New Zealand’. Walsh says Koromiko yields pollen until early March only...is this true for your locality? .....he says the pollen is ‘light buff’ in colour in observations for Koromiko, Hebe stricta Our Tanners Point bees very busy bringing in stores -observed en mass out on weeping willow and young (green, not yet wine coloured) female five finger flowers gathering nectar yesterday. Walsh says Napuka flowers September-late January...any variations on that....I’m sure I remember ours flowering in late Winter, August, in Puhoi, before we moved back to BoP.... When does the Napuka flower? purple hebe, Hebe speciosa
  6. Yes can now confirm- its looking like zero on varroa counts @M4tt. The conventional treatment regime Spring Autumn with MAQS in Dec, seems viable as long as queens are removed to Nucs during MAQS so they aren’t killed. Will upskill and adopt Oxalic on one test hive 2021 season, no hurry, need to get basics right one more year. All 3 hives very busy bringing in stores -observed en mass out on weeping willow and female five finger flowers gathering nectar yesterday. Bees healthy = I’m happy.
  7. Reports on Autumn and Winter pollen load colours in your foragers corbiculae and their plant sources are really valuable...so, if you hear your bees in a tree or plant and have time to take note of the colour and let me know, I would be really delighted. Thank you very much for that precious information for Autumn pollen loads @Bighands ...what a star! Nope- precious few NZ native pollen loads identified. I have spent a week dredging up Autumn and Winter pollen sources both native NZ and exotic plant sources writing a list of plants and sourcing their reported pollen colours. Google images of bees on plants with full pollen baskets is a dodgy source of information so first hand feedback from the Bee community is better. Kirk’s Collection method for his pollens loads publication led to accurate hues and intensity’s . Tricky to reproduce Kirks colours in gouache, dry is different to wet paint, the way we all see colour is different, etcetera. I have been stuck at my desk this week cross referencing print outs and books. I’m working through Walsh at the moment so I’m relying mostly on written colour descriptions. Some accuracy is lost in translation to paint and paper. Walsh is my only NZ native source- other than pearls of feedback such as yours @Bighands. When all 4 drafts are completed I’ll send digital images to any interested contributors to this topic. This first artwork has already run out of room so inevitably there will be other versions made according ( to the feedback I get about ) necessary corrections and tonal variations I left out. Strangely, I’m enjoying this slow complex process, the painting is shaping up. Have a great Autumnal week. @BighandsSouthern Rata is what end of green? Eg., Very green, slightly green ....Dark or light tone....Olive green, Robin Hood style dark green, yellowish green, beige tinged with green? Tree Fuchsia is that a bluish purple, a mauve red toned purple, lilac, dark strong tone or light tone? I suspect its a deep blue purple 👍
  8. I have Crimson or Italian Clover, Trifolium incarnatum establishing itself at our place. It flowered from Oct-Dec, I cut it back and it’s flowering a second time right now. Trees for bees chart says Crimson Clover flowers Oct-Dec but doesn’t record if it supplies nectar or pollen. On another chart, White clover is recorded as a ‘medium’ protein source (17-25% protein content) by Trees for Bees in their 2014 resource, but neither Crimson or Red are listed . I’m hoping our honeybees can access incarnatums nectar, (?) I can see that the Bombus terrestris accesses this plants nectar or pollen. Any further feedback on protein contents and colour of pollen in corbicula of Trifoliums would be appreciated. I’m painting a Pollen colour chart and listing pollen protein contents and periods of availability, where possible.
  9. I really appreciate you taking the time to give me this locality and forage information @dansar and @Gino de Graaf, it will shape better decisions.
  10. need to get sugar shakes done as follow up. Considering doing an alcohol wash on a sample from the parent hive. Eyeballing certainly ain’t enough if you can see the blighters you’re in deep water. Agree totally with both of you, but which one do I hold off on feeding and monitor. Reckon I should feed The two young hives....I can always step in with supplies for the parent hive at short notice. Yep - If the unfed parent hive still doesn’t have 2 frames of sealed honey in 2 weeks time, I’ll feed. Is our WBoP region overstocked with hives. Yep I’ve gone into a worry spin about my livestock. I seem to remember hive density is high, even overstocked in BoP. Where did I see that data? APINZ website possibly. Surely there’s enough forage for my bees right here on my doorstep. We are 800m away from any avo orchards and there’s 150 houses here in the Tanners Point settlement all with a diversity of flowering plants. I’m yet to meet another backyard beekeeper nearby. Perhaps my bees have found it challenging to find enough nectar and pollen. Surely not! Surely the lack of extra capped honey and pollen stores is because of the disruptions to population build up I caused when I split the parent hive way back in Spring when I had those 18+ emergency cells. Well let’s see what happens next season re honey harvest and excess, or lack of it. There will be no expanding of colony numbers past the three I know my neighbours can comfortably live with... any spring 2019 artificial swarm splits may have to be recombined until I can ascertain if there’s enough forage.
  11. When its done if it turns out ok-ish Ill make images available to those of you on this topic line who would find it useful. The details on each cell are tiny but hey I think 2mb images of each seasonal quarter might be adequate if people zoomed in to view each cell. Better than nothing. Eventually I’d like to see a future version go in display somewhere where beeks can see it in a science library of some sort. It’s not perfect, this one’s a draft. In the meantime it will go up in our own library. There will inevitably be things that need amending and future versions. But we’ll get there. It’s essentially a gouache and watercolour illustration. It’s analog. It’s art before anything else. Best to get it finished.
  12. Righteo @M4ttso instead of waiting till Sunday I went straight out post-post ;-)) and checked all 3 hives on the spot. Really appreciate the responses from all of you. I think that poor DWV bee had been ejected from one of my colony’s. ....all three hives are queenright....all three colony’s had 6 frames of brood at various stages. One hive is the parent hive and has approx 18,000 bees, two brood boxes with only the bottom with brood, left it this way its still 26degrees midday so I thought forcing all 18,000 into one brood box might be a bit early. Thge other 2 are young colony’s split from the parent and have about 10,000 bees each. They have grown in number nicely. The young MAQS treated hive was a bit shirty with me 4/10, but the others with Apivar were more relaxed 2x 2/10.The Apivar was still in place in the two no DWV or V or more poor bees with short abdomens detected by eye. As @cBankrightly suggests a sugar shake would be helpful to give me real data so that’s my Sunday job. The larva were swimming in good amounts of royal jelly, so cell nutrition looks ok, but hand to mouth: I think all 3 colony’s are motoring through supplies as soon as they come in the door. Theres not enough pollen or honey stores there yet. There’s brood at all stages, queens still laying and all three hives have nurses covering brood frames and busy foragers bringing in nectar and pollen. All brood frames had just a little pollen and honey store around edges, to my mind not enough. Nectar coming in to the frames 1,2 and 9,10 in all three broodboxes but not as much food there as I would like at this stage. Our climate is mild so the bees will be able to keep on foraging thru winter on fine days and I do feed them in winter if the rain sets in. Our lowest recorded winter overnight temp is 6 degrees and most days get above 14 degrees. My conclusions: -I’m not sure what norms and baselines (re stores) I should expect month to month. Bring on next year. - I would like to feed all 3 with sugar syrup, I’m picking it should be 2:1 at this stage in season (but I need to trawl previous posts and my notes instead of boring everyone here) -I’d like to get some commercial pollen supplement from the local farmlands and put this in all hives to make sure they have better stores before things wind down -Don’t want to drop the ball now and let them down, I’ve nearly got them safely through one whole season and and have gone from one nuc to three hives, and enjoyed it. -In winter I’ll find out Moore about this magical and effective thing - The Staple. My actions: -Yesterday I put 2 Apivar strips in the shirty hive’s broodbox that had had MAQS in it in Feb. -go back and do a sugar shake on all hives on Sunday.
  13. M4tt thank you for being candid your support is appreciated during this first full season. Got them this far and determined not to let them down. It seems clear I must have no varroa in any of those hives going into winter that determines treatment decisions on Sunday.
  14. No talent required just a steady hand, good home made colour charts, good spectacles, patience and determination. I’m a little frustrated that this first try is not completely definitive and I have had to leave out a fair few of Kirks summer and spring tones and tints. Have only just started to add in Walsh’s NZ descriptions, those colours are described in words so hue accuracy will be up for interpretation. I think there’s room for about two years work ahead. Totally agree with you. The trick will be to get a 10m roll of Fabriano watercolour paper so Summer for example can be the size of a whole wall by itself. Fun ahead this winter. ( I’ll take a break and do the Periodic Table next)
  15. Cripes thank you. Very helpful information. I can almost guarantee that wee deformed bee is From our own hives. Where does the horror of that little beast end. All hives treated mid Feb, two with Apivar, one with MAQS where I removed the queen and a brood frame and honey frame to NUCs for the first 5 days of the treatment period to try to protect the queen ( lost my only queen back at the beginning of the season to a MAQS treatment)and as one might expect that brood frame will have reintroduced varroa. Time for Apistan or Apivar in that hive when I inspect on Sunday I’m picking.
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