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Pablo

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About Pablo

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    Egg

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    Bee Research

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    Auckland

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  1. Interesting to see this post revived. Hayley, happy for you to use the pictures and I have sent you the originals by email. As an update, my friend never saw anything like this again in his apiary so whatever the cause was, it wasn't contagious. I don't believe he blocked the entrance at any point but I guess we couldn't discard heat stress added to nosema, added to stress caused by splitting, and perhaps some fermented honey. Probably the sum of several causes contributed to these symptoms.
  2. Thanks for the comments. Yes, there is the oxalic acid + glycerine long term treatment. There is a commercial formulation being manufactured in Argentina called Aluen CAP and also people experimenting with home-made recipes. Regarding the dispensers for formic acid such as the Nassenhaider and the Liebig, as far as I know they are not popular in New Zealand. Perhaps the reason is simply that we have flumethrin/fluvalinate + amitraz available so why bother manipulating formic acid and having to add a rim to every hive to place the dispenser. In addition, you have to store them when not using them.
  3. There are several formic acid dispensers in the market, but they don't seem to be very popular. There may be several reasons for that, including that beekeepers are not to keen to be playing with formic acid and release of formic acid varies with weather. What I haven't seen in the market is oxalic acid dispensers that allow for a long-term applicaton of oxalic acid over a period of 4-6 weeks (not talking about the one-off vaporisers where one needs to come back weekly unless the hive is going through broodless period). Would a long-term treatment of oxalic acid delivered with a dispenser/applicator work for beekeepers? Any feedback would be appreciated.
  4. Interesting formic acid dispenser. There are several formic acid dispensers in the market. The Nassenheider, Liebig, and so on. They are not very popular as far as I know. What is the advantage of this one?
  5. There is not much information about it, but it seems to be a liquid formulation to be used as a dribble. "VARROMED is an easy to use liquid formulation that is directly applied onto the bees simplifying Varroa treatment." First Europe-wide approval of the New Varroa Treatment - VARROMED | Grantham Beekeepers So I guess the advantage for beekeepers is that they don't have to make the oxalic acid dribble themselves. My guess is that the amount of formic acid there is probably very small.
  6. Thanks for the comments. As far as I know my friend doesn't feed sugar. He stores honey frames from the previous season. In the picture we were putting a feeder to see if that was going to help but then saw that most of them were dead anyway. It could have been something in the honey. I'll suggest he checks the honey frame. The other nucs and hives on the same site are doing fine and this one gets more sun than some of the others. I guess it is a good idea to keep an eye on the parent hive for any symptoms.
  7. A friend of mine made a split a few weeks ago and put a queen cell from a queen breeder. About three days ago he found the hive entrance covered with bee diarrhea as shown in the image. On opening, most of the bees inside where dead, very few bees left alive so this nuc won't survive. The parent hive hasn't shown any symptoms. What could be the cause? Nosema? He has other nucs and hives around and want to make sure this is not passed to the other hives.
  8. Sounds like those mites may have been resistant to Bayvarol.
  9. The difference between synthetic and natural is that the synthetic is made in the lab while the natural is extracted from a natural source. The chemical is exactly the same though. Many "natural chemicals" (called natural because they exist in nature) are cheaper made in the lab than extracted from natural sources.
  10. Thanks @Matthew Brajkovich. I actually need the mites when they are still alive. Next time when you are about to take a drone frame out, if you are able to let me know I can come and get the mites by pulling drone pupae out one by one. @Dave Black yes, I could try an ether roll or alcohol wash. From a practical point of view I need the mites alive, that's why it will have to be either using sugar or by putting a drone frame. Today I did sugar shake and sugar dusting on three hives from @Nzsuze . By natural fall there were 3-4 mites after 24 hours falling through mesh board. I thought I should be able to get mites from there. First we did a sugar shake from one hive and only got 1 mite. Then we did sugar dusting on 3 hives and only got 1 other live mite (2 other mites were dead already). So at least got 2 mites! 98 more to go to have enough for my first experiment.
  11. That's right! I have a board under the hive which is there constantly and I've never seen any mites on it. Today I did top sugar dusting with 125 g of icing sugar on top bars and between the bars. I then brushed the sugar from the top bars into the gaps. Looked after 10 minutes and didn't see any mites. Looked after 1 hour and didn't see any mites. I've also done the sugar shake method on two other hives from two other beekeepers. No mites either. I'm sure at some point mites will appear but I was hoping to start collecting them now. Any suggestions?
  12. Thanks @Nzsuze Just saw your comment. Thanks to Gavin I have now bees where I'll be able to get mites.
  13. Haha! Thanks Gavin...No pressure :-)
  14. @Dave Black, yes I've found that useful and I will find it even more useful once I start collecting mites. Have you applied any of these methods yourself?
  15. Thanks Dave. The first stage of the process involves dissecting the mites so I wouldn't mind much about their longevity. I've read a few articles where they use mites regularly collected from a tray under a meshed bottom board and I thought that should be the easiest way but I may have to try other ways if that one doesn't work.
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