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Everything posted by Shaun

  1. Yes I hear you, I spent time and money trying to get the components for a hydraulic disk setup that used 5 stud landcruiser and meet the legal requirements for 3.5T Short of a total custom build... Hence the electric
  2. The first slab is now a work bench in my shed (trimmed a bit of rot one end so now 4.5m x 650mm 65mm thick) Second slab went to the land owner. Third is a bit thinner at 38mm and got cut up for a garden bed and hive frame side bars. The rest is still on the log (another 10 or so slabs) waiting for the paddock to dry sufficiently so I can drive into and out of the gully where the log is.
  3. A bit more progress on that Mac log.
  4. 4 wheel electric drum, controller in the cab for adjustment and override. I often run down big hills with a bit of trailer only brakes activated from the cab controller. I spent a lot of time (Like a year) and money trying to put together a hydraulic disk system (5 stud Landcruiser) when a good friend of mine said "just build it" and get the benefit of the trailer and stop trying to design a perfect solution.
  5. If you actually knew a teacher in person you wouldn't say the above. The fact that every few years the govt has to provide incentives to recruit enough teachers is fact in its self that sane people choose other easier jobs.
  6. How big is your budget? What are your sites like for access? A medium trailer is fine on the highway if the tow vehicle is set up correctly. Off road.... a helicopter.
  7. Bees on the Beehive, If my memory serves me correctly this has been done before, maybe about 7 or 8 years ago. Andrew from the Cuba street honey shop (Closed), don't know where he is nowadays.
  8. Thank you. The crane fitted my budget at the time and the trailer fits around the orchards that I do, though I do have to be careful as I have had to winch the trailer sideways to get around a dead man on a tight corner. The trailer and ute decks are both single sheets of "Truck deck ply" no joins for catching the hive feet when I slide them around. Sliding the hives is easy enough when they are light (no honey) but really gives me a work out when they have a box of honey or the trailer is on a slope the wrong way. Before I built this trailer I had the experience of using both
  9. I've been using an 050 to lift twin pallets with just a 2.4m reach for several years. I am hoping to upgrade to increase the reach. I stopped using pallet forks in favor of strops as the forks are often a nusiance to get in and out.
  10. I must be doing okay. I have 2 x double garage sized sheds 2 x insulated shipping containers some under house storage and one room in the house as an office/honey store. Mind you Maria has a dedicated room/office of her own.
  11. My timber stack is no wheres as impressive. And thanks for the tip re fillets at the end. My first slabbing mill I was using my 65cc (Jonsered) firewood saw and a 750mm bar with skip tooth chain. I very slowly cut about 50m of 350-450mm wide slabs with that combo till the end bracket on the mill came loose and broke. I learn't a lot with that setup. Next was a secondhand an ex 83cc (again Jonsered) forestry saw running either a 800mm or a 1050mm bar. The 800mm bar cuts cuts slabs up to about 550mm wide reasonably well and slowly cuts slabs up to 750mm wide with the big ba
  12. My personal history of of getting a reliable supply of clean Macrocarpa for hive wear has taken more than a decade. Along that journey has also been the machines, but I'll start with the Macrocarpa side of the story. Deciding to use Mac was easy enough. What grows in NZ, is harvested legally and is moderately durable? (A hundred plus years ago I probably would have used Kauri) Macrocarpa is sometimes described as poor mans Kauri. A number of established Beekeepers mentioned that they had some Mac boxes in their operation that were years old and they lasted well. I made inquiries
  13. About 15 years ago when I really started getting interested in Beekeeping I experimented with Jumbo brood boxes instead of the single or double FD or double 3/4 that are the standard for most NZ beeks. I bought 10 kit boxes and 100 kit frames (pine from NZ Beeswax) and foundation and within a season had decided to phase out the FD from my operation. About the same time I became very disappointed with the short life of Pine boxes, in particular the brood boxes which stay on the hive through the winter. I built/bought a paraffin wax dipper and dipped the boxes (I quickly hated wax dipping boxes
  14. Today's effort. 5.5m long 1.1m at the butt end and enough timber for a years worth of bee hive making. Yes Macrocapa splits. I pre-drill before screwing or nailing, Boxes and frames. (I'll add some photos of frames later) I can assure you that making Macrocarpa hive wear is not cheaper than buying kitset pine. While the timber is basically free (Honey to the land owner) The machinery I have bought over the last 15 years would have bought 3 or 4 times over the boxes and frames I have made to date.
  15. Thanks, in that case I won't bother. (it would have been another thing to remember to take and clean up when it spills.)
  16. Yes I've had some trouble with cracks and long splits. I'm thinking to take some paint with me next time and paint the ends of the log. I don't have too much trouble with warpage plus bee gear is only 500mm long which solves most distortion problems. They go under the house fillet stacked for a year to air dry. I blank them up oversize 25mm on the width and about 6mm on the thickness
  17. Slabbing boards. Edging.
  18. Is there anybody else mad enough to make their own boxes and hive wear? If so what machines and how do you do it? This is the start of next years boxes, frames and floors.
  19. Tristan is correct. 8 manly style frames, I make mine 42mm thick. They are nice to use in the extraction process again as Tristan says easy to uncap. They cannot be used for brood, total mess when ever I get a queen laying above the excluder, (none this season)
  20. 14 on the ute and 24 on the trailer (38 hives total), the crane only has 2.4m reach so only the first two rows on the trailer. I've been looking at my options to upgrade the crane to overcome some of the limitations of the 050 quicklift (speed, reach and quality/reliability)' The option that I like is the Maxilift 110 it is however 3 x the price that I paid for the 050. So the 050 has to do at least another season. That means getting the powerpack out and fixing the oil leak.
  21. I've had the 050 quicklift for 5 years now. It certainly has its limitations and its very basic quality with a number of issues/repairs over the years. Having said that I've done pollination for the last 4 years single handed with the crane doing the lifting. In short its been worth every cent I paid for it.
  22. Another Fitter/Machinist here. I have a 250amp single phase Mig (15amp plug but needs 20amp for full power) in the shed that I haven't used for years (I've had it since new nearly 30 years) Reason, the roll of wire starts to rust and the machine doesn't run smoothly. (I always used .8 wire for home based single phase welding) About 8 years ago I replaced my old stick and tig machines with a combo HF so I could also do Ali welding. I mostly use 3.2 or 2.5 gp stick for projects and repairs. Below was the last major project with the stick welder.
  23. Yes, I also have most injury related problems from honey boxes. I use 3/4 with 8 frames but they are still too heavy. One of the main problems is the cutout for the finger holds, its just too small and lifting close to 30kg on the finger tips gets very painful after a few hundred. I have tendon swelling in several fingers on both hands, I'm considering adding cleats to increase the finger hold depth or getting an easy lifter and lifting mechanically. My hands and shoulder usually settle down over the winter and are fine through the spring pollination but by the end of harvest and extract
  24. Yep still use Jumbo for brood boxes only, and they work for me. As with everything beekeeping there are pluses and minus. I like that I only have one brood box to go through for health checks and putting strips into. I also run my hives on stands 300mm high so the top of the brood box is 600mm of the ground which makes for considerably less bending when working in the brood. Given I'm not the youngest beekeeper around and have a few ongoing niggles/issues with finger, hand and shoulder strain type of injures working smarter rather than harder is important to me.
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