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Kiwi Bee

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Kiwi Bee last won the day on September 11 2019

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About Kiwi Bee

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    Guard Bee


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    Hobby Beekeeper


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  1. They may work well if someone is using bayvarol strips in the same time. But the costs then........
  2. This is how it works in NZ.
  3. Why did we not receive any email regarding this change? Any thoughts?
  4. There was a lot of new food in the frames last weekend. Not fresh but uncapped. Some dew from somewhere I couldn't figure it out. Normally that doesn't happen because this time of the year we already have a lot of rain. But the dry weather gave the opportunity to the bees, and the nature, to play a different game. We got the rain since monday but I'm happy that the bees topped up their frames in time. Location: Kumeu area.
  5. What was the ratio of OA/GL for your treatment? Under 35% don't expect very good results. And 40% gives better result. As soon as the bee population gone down there were not enough bees to spread the OA. I suspect sick bees too who didn't resist to OA. Any tests prior the treatment? I prepared hard as for the autumn treatment. I finished my strips on the sewing machine then I contacted Clarks to order GL(first time). A lovely lady took all my details and she said that next day I'll get an email from the sales department with the invoice. After I'll pay
  6. If anybody wants to give it a go, make sure you use it for strong colonies. A weak colony will push the fumes away and the treatment will not give good results. In strong colonies the bees will try the same thing by instinct however since there are lots of bees everywhere in the box the only thing they'll achieve is to spread the fumes. A good method is to use sanitary pads for women(cheapest from Coutdown, 2/box). Make sure the % is not less than 60%, preferably 65%.
  7. That hive lifter is a great Hungarian model, however I am not sure either if it'll work without issues on our terrain(i.e. my apiary in all on a angle. I'll be difficult to use a ute + crane too). Meanwhile there is a German beekeeper who makes lifters too and he has a model that he claims it is good for rough terrain(I can't find his website). This model has an accessory(metal frame with castors) to use it as a drum lifter in the honey house.
  8. @Shaunthat tree is a beauty. The moment I saw it the first thing that popped in my mind was to turn it into top end furniture. You'll have to dry it first anyway, so you'll have a year to think about. If you look up for macrocarpa furniture you'll see that the prices are high as(i.e. coffee table from $500, Q-bed frame $1000-2000...... and more). Good luck with your project.
  9. @The Frasers, have you used 8 strips per FD box?
  10. This topic is of a great value for me. Thanks for all your info. I'll head to my bees ASAP this week to give them OA fumigation. At least they buy some time by the time apivar kicks in. I treated with apivar 60% of the hives(2 weeks before lockdown) and the rest of them got bayvarol(1 week before lockdown). I made a sign so I know where is apivar and where is bayvarol. When I'll remove the treatments also I'll try to see if there are any differences in brood, volume of bees, general health........... I'm not very experienced with varroa counting. Also I balanced the colon
  11. Here I go, with a new set up. As I mentioned earlier this year my biggest problem every season is to recover from the damages caused by the waxmoth. So, I re-set all the brood nests swapping frames of food or merging hives. Now I have colonies with 1 and 2 brood boxes, lots of bees, brood and some food(the food may not be enough till September however I'll sort that out later as needed). On top of each hive I have 1 or 2 empty honey supers(some frames don't have any comb either - I scrape the honey combs when harvesting the honey). All plastic frames. I plan to leave th
  12. Where is the Show your varroa tester thread?
  13. @StephenPfrom what you say it seems to be PMS. OA/GL staples may killed the sick bees and the queen holds back too since there may not be enough nurses either.
  14. Thank you guys for the guidance. New idea. When I put the treatment into the hive I'll swap the middle box for the top box(to have the honey in the middle). Maybe I should add one more QE, below top box then to keep the queen in the 3rd box. Two months later when I'll remove the treatment, I'll also swap bottom box for top box(there will be no queen in the middle box). Also I'm considering to keep swapping bottom box for top box every 6 weeks in the winter. Does it make sense? Yes, I can do a split too.
  15. I have two hives that were running all season with two queens. I planed to remove the older one however today I got a new plan to winter these two hives jusat like that. Bottom box has the older queen and good brood and lots of bee bread + some honey(not too much). Next is the QE, then second box with the younger queen(daughter of the older one). Lots of brood, bee bread and honey. Third box has some brood and almost full of honey. I plan to put treatment in all three boxes and keep the configuration till spring. I wish to have stronger colonies in the early spring.
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