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Everything posted by tony

  1. Hmm interesting, this is taking it to the next level, but you maybe on to something here, not sure if theres any research on this, basically if I can read between the lines your basically suggesting that the viruses are surviving in honey?. I like the theory.
  2. Yea I used to push out till now, but I don't graft in March any more, the mating success is reduced so much for me I find it not worth the work fixing things etc. Yea I should have added my poorper splits are mated in my drone production area so these are selected drone hives actually the ones in my bee pathogen program, which are selected originally from varroa survival but of late its honey and overwintering strength.
  3. Queen breeding is definitely a art and science, I do not rate myself as the best but as the years go by you learn, I have been guilty of trying to raise to many cells at once, using hives not strong enough, trying to go to far outside of the season in fact you could name all sorts and I've probably done it. But what I do now that has changed is I do it mostly for myself and man I get way better results, I gues it's the added pressure of quantity versus time, I never intended to do queens or cells for others but I'd get the odd request so you try and help, I've learnt to say no. But what I do k
  4. I've just talked with Hayley Pragert she is one of the team in the pathogen program and she said it was my information to use and was no problem for me to share information, so when I get a chance later I guess we can open another topic and I will post my results.
  5. I guess there's a few things missing in this theory, one is where are the virus coming from to start with, if there have been no varroa counted in the past two rounds, so basicly a year, autumn and spring sample, where are the virus coming from, if oa, and fa, reduce the viruses what does reduce it by? and how? It can't just be the bees cause over that period of time they have naturally been and gone so now I have fa killing "sick bees", and oa killing "sick bees", and then natural life span " dead bees". No varroa spreading it?. I'm not saying that the acids aren't doing it but how d
  6. Thanks guys yea, I'm well aware of a lot of this and been cleaning frames and gear for many years and as the years go on it gets more and more, cleaning any deads that come home, and I think I run pretty clean gear, I haven't done heat treatment however and to be honest it's not something that appeals to me at this stage, @feildbee is doing it currently and seems to be having results. The thing is I'm not seeing a lot of clinical case so I'm not overly worried about my virus levels it's more about understanding them and now knowing that it's not necessary a varroa problem, it is if you have va
  7. Yea I'd start a new topic on this but if I'm the only one of the 59 in the program on here theres not much point haha, I hate talking to myself.
  8. I'm not so sure, you maybe right as I'm no data analysis, but my results aren't showing that, my results are showing strong healthy bees with no varroa at all present in the last two sample rounds, but some of the viruses are still high, I'm on a 10% frame rotation on this site and on a side note its been the same hives tested never moved same boxs gear etc apart from normal replacement of a broken box etc, since sampling started I have used acids as treatment, plus synthetic, thymol and even drone culling. But I can't seem to shake some of the viruses, is it genetics? I have heaps of quest
  9. I'll back it, don't get me wrong I agree with being audited, but for probably the majority of extraction plants operating at most 5-6 months most maybe not not even that, why two?, and agree the hourly rate is next level, like I understand costs and value of time etc but man they are the highest paid people on my books, I guess that's the thing that gets me the most, the other being they waste time checking trace ability twice a year when we are only producing once a year why? They can see the exact same info on one visit why do they need to see it twice. Different if your buying and packing a
  10. Is there research that oa gets rid of viruses?, I recieved the last results from the bee pathogen program couple days ago and I still have some very high virus loads well at least out of the group in particular dwv, and bqcv, bee weight was good at 18gm, and no mites in my samples these hives have been treated with oa/gly, not just that but it is part of my treatment. May be it needs long term exposure? I am definitely interested in what lowers virus levels, probably another topic there.
  11. Yea, my limited experience at this stage is pretty simple the hives don't really like it the stocking rate needs to be higher they definitely need to artificially pollinate also, and get a real good spread of hives though out the orchard.
  12. @nikki watts, I would bomb those hives with Fa, yes it will knock the socks out of them but you need to get those mites out asap, if you have other healthy hives around I would be looking at those for a donor once you have the mites gone. Staples and synthetic are not going to cut it at this stage, Interesting, did he know about the oa/gly, before this? Or was that just a opinion he had on the spot, did he understand the point of the gly treatment?, oa/syrup as we all know works but only has a limited kill time the point of the glycerin is to extend the kill.
  13. What I have seen in covered is you need more hives than uncovered, not only are they under a cover they are under the canopy, they don't work the same, I wonder if its lack of light.
  14. The only thing is you need a heck of a lot of them, to even get close to doing the job of a strong hive
  15. We've been using nucs in a covered orchard it has some open sides so not fully enclosed, one thing I noticed is they are slow on eating the sugar I been using two box nucs so 9 frames and a inside feeder, we also been using full size hives the nucs are easier to get to the awkward parts. One of the reason I was trying nucs was I didn't need to worry about them getting wrecked when they where done in the orchard I just put them out to recover, the other thing is this orchard was using bumblebees but for there money you dont get much in my opinion a nuc has a heck of a lot more bees in them tha
  16. I would agree it would be hard to come by, I know places in south island can do it but I would have thought not to much on the grand scheme of things. On occasions we will get a pohutukawa/clover blend that's quite light but its still odd years. And to be honest I get no more for it than a dark Bush so who cares.
  17. I was always impressed with hollands creamed clover how light it was and smooth to.
  18. 20 tonne of honey that light what's that worth per kilo?
  19. Is this a site record of the oldest topic bought back to life? haha just curious nearly four years.
  20. Is there a good premium for clover or any honey that gets that low in colour?, almost manuka value I reckon, it must be like Hens teeth. Anyway about the topic I'm not that clued up on co-ops but it has some appeal, security would be one of them, there would be nothing worse than not know your honey would sell you cant operate a beekeeping business with not knowing what you produce won't sell, and with that if a price has been set pre season you know what you can budget on even if its dismal, a co-op to me seems like a long term investment you need to ride the lows and highs but knowing
  21. That's interesting cause when you look at your frame the honey is all at the front of the frame then??, from my experience that's not normal, normally they store the honey to the back of the box, but if that's the case why are they chewing the back strip first,? Is it so queen can lay there or store food there maybe,
  22. My thinking is as long as bees are active and have contact with the product it will work, different in winter cluster. The strips I place at the front of the bottom box basically at the entrance are always the ones that get chewed the fastest, which means its contact, looking at James photo I note that one strip is getting chewed, James is this the front of the hive? It looks it to me. For me it makes the most sense to put at least a couple strip at the exact location James has, it's where all the bee traffic is.
  23. I place them exactly like that also probably little bit tighter in autumn but exactly like that in spring
  24. Nah james not that shed, but it was that shed couple weeks ago we dropped some honey in after harvesting and we got back late so just dropped it, then next morning it was raining so we opened the window to let bees out, then we thought we'd be smart and shoot out to a area that wasn't raining but while we where gone the weather came out sunny as, when we got back... well man the bees could have flown away with the shed you couldn't see for bees just a dark cloud, there was nothing I could do till dark, amazing though they didn't upset any of the neighbors, phew. My son was so impressed he vid
  25. Yea phill I understand why you are doing it, good idea, I was meaning in general at this time of year, I use inside feeders in my nucs but it would be disastrous if i feed them at the moment.
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