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Jim B

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  1. Hey all, I was wondering how others found this method of placing the Pam's strips into the brood boxes and how it worked for those who tried it? I just placed 4 strips ( ie on 8 brood faces) in my 2 brood boxes for 2 hives and will see how they go. If it works somewhat then I will probably place some more strips again in late Feb/early March for the winter. I am interested to see how you all found using it and its effectiveness. Cheers
  2. it looks like Hoheria to me, I think it is also know as lacebark as the flowers look a bit like lace. I think some also call it ribbonwood, but I am not positive about that.
  3. So sorry to hear about your mess Janice. Hopefully combining the two into one will salvage a bad situation.
  4. VERY interesting thread this one. Thinking ahead to next season, might it be a good idea to use this type of treatment in say August, November and then again in February. At 3 month intervals to keep on top of the ever present varroa problem. I am thinking of this as I lost 4 (all) of my hives to varroa and virus problems coming out of last winter. I am up to 3 hives again and so far very small varroa numbers, but it is always in the back of my mind how to best to treat properly and not let those little mites do their population explosions. Any comments on this approach would be appreciat
  5. nice little article, thanks for that Dansar!
  6. Sounds great and definitely worth a try. Not much to lose if you use oxalic acid in some form already. However, distant rumbles about the possibility of resistance to OA. Something to keep an eye on.
  7. It sure has been rainy here in coastal Otago. Rain everyday or two and mainly cool and windy. Not a good year for bees doing their thing or warm weather gardening! Fingers crossed for more than 1 day of nice weather.
  8. Beehive looks beautiful. I currently go foundationless in a medium langstroth hive. It is important to give the bees some guide to go by. I started with a one box hive and checker boarded into a second box (putting foundationless frames between two frames already drawn out). That works good and offers them some guidance. If you give them nothing they may draw their comb who knows where. I reckon they need to do things their own way and don't need foundation to go by. Of course they expend energy in making their own combs but that is what they do on their own anyway. Good luck with your
  9. Yes, he did mean 7 days apart, I agree with him that the OA in the honey is no problem. There has been research looking at the same issue and they found no added OA residue
  10. Nope, I've always heard the same - put the same in each time (is it 2 g's per hive - can't remember at the moment) ?? I think you might put a little less in for a 1 box hive or nuc.
  11. I've read reports saying that when you vapourize wit the honey supers on that the OA residual is about zero - not above the background threshold OA level anyway. Others say to vapourize after taking the supers off.
  12. Much thanks for the information Dave. :bee:
  13. This is the way we handle our foundationless frames and find it works well. After crushing in a big bowl we use a stainless steel honey double strainer (med and fine openings) into a food grade bucket and a couple of days in the warm sun and it is done. Transfer into some waiting glass jars (or buckets if you like) and all done and ready for the next batch of crush and strain. Keep things simple I reckon (KISS).
  14. Keep things simple I reckon - there is always crush and strain as well as an option for those trying foundationless frames.
  15. Look at Amazon as well for candle molds and wick, I got mine from there. They onsell molds from a US beekeeping site called Mann Lake. Don't know if they sell internationally. But as Tutor said, they with postage the cost is what it is. See what you think.
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