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S and S

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Everything posted by S and S

  1. Apologies for the delay in uploading these photos, I missed your reply. As you hopefully can see the light is quite large. We have a very basic set up with a stand that we made and the grubby thing you can see through the light is what we lean the frames on. That is adjustable and the light is infinitely manoeuvrable. You can buy a stand. If you have any questions I will try to answer? - a bit quicker this time.
  2. I have used a Magilamp for years. A cheaper version these days is a craft light with a magnifying glass. Round bulb on the outside of a magnifying glass. If you're interested I'll set up and take a photo. Was too stubborn to use one for about 5 years but it made a massive difference once I'd pulled head in! Now I need glasses as well. Ageing is not great sometimes! ?
  3. Manuka Mountain may be able to help too.
  4. The hotter your wax is the more it will shrink as it cools. It will cool quicker on the outside of a mould than the inside too. If you warm your mould first that will help. A warm water bath will help it cool more evenly too
  5. S and S


    We wondered what had happened to AP2s. It is a long time since I was asked to do anything, but I never got any communication from anyone.
  6. They will, if you must, on a good flow but...much better to wax. And, yes, we have done it, a long time ago when we, and the bees, we're desperate to get supers on.
  7. Unfortunately not the first time and not the only large company offering huge amounts of money to landowners. Some payments are unsustainable given the crops they will get but they can make it up elsewhere. The big companies have hives a'll over the country, the smaller ones don't. A contributing problem is not knowing how many hives are in an area. Overstocking is a massive issue - especially in a year like this. Comvita have a reputation for being ruthless but they are, by no means, the only ones.
  8. Our honeybuyer is not alone in halting all procurement of this season's honey. Their customers aren't wanting to buy. Everyone is waiting for MPI standards.... And waiting....
  9. We dipped once - never again! Spray it on or roll it. Dipping uses a huge amount of wax and one spends the next few seasons scraping it off side bars, top bars, bottom bars..
  10. Not yet.... but thanks! I'll have to work it out in the morning:)
  11. We have 2 available, caught today. Can you pm me please - I haven't worked out how to do that yet! We only have Italians
  12. I'll get back to you. Are you after Italians or Carniolans?
  13. By waiting 3-4 weeks before checking the nuc we nearly always have capped brood. In 18 years of queen breeding, I've never had a newly mated queen lay unfertilised eggs (drones) in a nuc. There's always a first time with need though! There have been plenty of occasions where queens have been unable to get out to mate and they start laying drones.
  14. Mating depends, at least partially, on weather. I wouldn't check on any nuc earlier than 3 weeks after putting a cell in at this time of year and I'd be very prepared to wait 4 weeks if there hasn't been some decent weather. After mating, they should lay 2-3 days later. Don't take them out until you know you have viable larvae, remembering that eggs take 3 days to hatch.
  15. We may have some available most weeks for a while.
  16. All our nucs are 3/4 (and our hives). Before putting boxes together we put 2 grooves in each end, then use metal ''division" boards. Our bases have a small entrance on 3 sides which we can adjust according to the season. If you use hardboard, having a top piece, not sure what to call it but like a top bar, means that you can staple a plastic queen excluder to it and put a super on, or a feeder. This allows one to put 2-3 cells in (depending on many divisions you make) and hopefully get the same number of mated queens. The most important thing is to have no gaps where 1 queen can get to another one.
  17. We have very strong hives suddenly on a flow and totally ignoring syrup. It happens every year if we get the feeding/flow wrong!
  18. Once nectar starts coming in the need will ignore syrup, especially if it is not near them. Be in the watch for bed weather though. When we first for into beekeeping we were earned that more hives starve out in October/November than any other time of the year. Big numbers can consume a lot in a patch of bad weather. Sorry, bees will ignore... Got to love predictive!
  19. If you have 'old' equipment use that in case of AFB, always quarantine them and treat for varroa and give them undrawn frames too. They are highly motivated to draw out comb. At this time of the year I would feed something unless I know they have access to nectar. Too easy for them to starve if the weather is bad.
  20. Sometimes when we catch a swarm they have obviously already decided where they are going and so abscond. Giving them a few drawn frames and a small feed tends to motivate them to stay and build the give.
  21. Compressor, hot water bath for the spray paint pot, very clean wax I.e. strained through cloth, and a lot of patience to get things running smoothly. We've done lots now
  22. Spraying is the most economical and efficient in our experience. As pointed out above, the main difficulty with dipping is the wax on the side, top and bottom bars and the bees love that as much as anything else. The frames are then much harder to get out of the boxes as there is wax everywhere! Rolling works well but uses more wax than spraying and it is harder to get an even spread. Spraying gets an even, light coat of wax for the bees to use. Warping is not affected by different methods of getting wax on.
  23. Or the queen was accidentally transferred up, or lack of pollen/nectar or sugar syrup. Queen cell building requires wax so there needs to be a nectar flow, medium is best, or a syrup simulation of a nectar flow. When we started queen breeding we were told there are 1001 things that need to be right! The question is always - which one (or more) did I not get right? Getting good cells and good queens is hard work -keep going at it, you will get it right in time.
  24. Leave them in the starter - queenless hive with capped brood, pollen and uncapped honey - for 24-36 hours, then transfer them to a queen-right hive (with queen excluder!) with plenty of pollen again, uncapped honey and young larvae. You want to draw the nurse bees up to feed your queens. In both types of cell builder the brood should be on one side of the cells and the pollen on the other. They should probably also be having a feed still at this time of the year to encourage wax making which is required for the queen cells. 1-2 litres of 40:60 sugar:water for your starter and 3-4 litres for your finisher.
  25. There are a lot of commercial beekeepers in this area, as long as you don't put your hives absolutely next door to the other guy you are entitled to keep your bees on your property no matter how close. As others have said if you can keep good relations with the other guy, it could make life easier for you. If you only have a hive or two and look after your bees i.e. treatment for mites, afb checks, etc the other guy really can't complain - and has no need.
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