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goldfish73

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About goldfish73

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  1. Yes would agree that can be a reason but brand new excluders with no damage and just put excluder on without manipulation of hives on this visit as we saw eggs on previous visit. Queen can get through on the odd occasion but very rare.
  2. I had some new splits in spring that I decided to super up once I saw that the queen was laying. Came back a couple of weeks later to find that the queen was laying above the excluder and nothing below. She was obviously not a 'virgin'. So I would say yes a virgin could potentially get through depending on her growth stage and size.
  3. Staple plastic to top and bottom of stack and then wrap up with plastic wrap. Then we take them to the cool stores at the wharf and store them in the freezer there for 48-72 hours then back into shed for the winter. This kills all the eggs and larva as well as any bees or moths still in boxes and prevents them getting in over winter. Never had a problem with wax moth since we started doing his.
  4. Not a dumb question! Everyone is confused with all these NPA MGO UMF ABC XYZ. UMF is a trademark brand based on the non peroxide activity (NPA). $10k to buy licence to use UMF on your labels plus a fee per jar.
  5. Have had a bit of crystallised honey come through the plant late in season. Talking with beekeeper roughly where sites are and seems to me that they are in area where kanuka was a bit. Could be willow honey dew but as far as I know honey dew is sold as liquid form as it doesn't crystallise that easy. I maybe wrong.
  6. So why do they do it gissy the other way round? I heard someone say so they can get a early crop while the hives are building up with Bayvarol in the hive. Surely that not the reason. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
  7. Yes that is what I understand happens but why do people to it they way they do their areas hives. What is the main difference between the two main options apivar and Bayvarol and why do you use it in that season.
  8. What is the treatment that you use in your hives in spring. Most of the bees in gisborne use Bayvarol in spring but alot of the country as I understand use apiary at this time of year. I don't think gisborne is majorly different from the rest of the country as far as spring crops.
  9. goldfish73

    Bettabees?

    There was a email sent to NBA members asking for interest to buy into their program. 6.-10k Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
  10. goldfish73

    Bettabees?

    Bettabees are looking at doing limited production mated queens. I believe these are open mated, but this could be in competition with their members who are breeders themselves. Getting an AI mated breeder queen is an expensive option but is worth the investment if you are after their specially selected genitics in your operation. I looked at getting queens from a couple of member breeder. There was a waiting list and $50 each. I have a number of queens from a breeder and am getting some more this year. I also am breeding myself off these daughters. I am yet to see if the Bettabee genictics are any better than the queens that we have got locally over the last few years.
  11. You transfer the 1 day old (or younger ie within 24hrs) larve . I caught the queen into the cage about 4pm and let her out at 9am and left the cage in hive for 3days and transferred the larve as close to hatching as possible. It's a good system but I found manual grafting more fun. I'm still going to keep using it though.
  12. I got the Jenter when I first tried queen rearing. I struggle to see them myself at times but with these systems it's not so hard. You just have to be careful when transferring the cups from the cage to the cell bars. I struggled with the Jenter system and ended up going to the manual grafting method. I found that helped me understand all the little important things that I need to consider and do when queen rearing. I improved as time went on. I then decided to give the Jenter another crack and got a 95% strike rate the last 3 batches at the end of season. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
  13. Finally got a small video of the jig in action. Sorry for the dark lighting. Hope you get the idea. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WnJJlf64XM
  14. Yes that is correct. The nuc would end up with most of the bees hence why I used a F/D box rather a nuc so there was room for them. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
  15. I did all my splits last year on site after talking to a beek in hawkes bay and seeing how he did it. I made up new single box with 2-3 frames of young brood and a couple honey frames. Rest a mix of drawn and foundation. Put a cell in this and moved the queen in the old hive to new position. My new split has very little bees in. Bees do return back to the new hive to boost up numbers and the brood will keep hatching while the new queen mates. I also put a protected cell in the old hive. If the old queen is strong enough to fight off the new queen, she is good foe another year. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
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