Pinnacle

Bayvarol immediately. Give it a couple weeks after that and test for mites if you wish (alcohol wash). If you're still seeing many, I would then OA or MAQ to try and knock them down. Hopefully the Bayvarol drops them and you can just leave the strips in. If that is the case, they'll run out of activity by end September. If you're still several weeks away from a flow, couple options - either follow the Bayvarol with Apivar and remove it before the flow, or remove the Bayvarol, wait a bit then treat with OA program or FA (MAQs) before the flow. I wouldn't put Bayvarol in now, have it run out end September then do nothing through the flow - thats a long time period and risky.

Here we go again.... beeses busy in early nectarines on a fine sunny day today.

oh that's good then Comvita says manuka at low risk from myrtle rust

hi, would appreciate an ID. I have a lot of this at the moment at a couple of sites, would be interested to know whether it is any use to the bees. I'm thinking maybe a hoheria species but can't decide...

as at February 2017, across 49,080 apiaries, according to assurequality via the APINZ update email yesterday. Same email states 313,339 hives in June 2007, 10 years ago. Anyone like to hold a sweep for the date we pass 1 million hives?

Recent footage shows the ability of varroa mites to nimbly hitch a ride on a passing bee, when waiting on a flower. Sure the mites were artificially placed on the flowers in this work, but the video shows surprising agility on the behalf of the mite. Deadly Mites Can Leap From Flowers Onto Bees, This First-Ever Video Shows

And I'll be rich, rich I tell ya! Ma ha ha ha ha ha ha

hi, can someone let me know what this is please. Didn't really see bees working it, but it was a cold day when I was in the area. There is an awful lot of it around in this area, so I would be interested to know if it is useful (especially as there is little else available in the area at the moment) Thanks:)

Not sure if this is in the right place, please shift it if you need to moderators. I want to do some work logging temp and RH related to queen bees (not in the hive). We run all Macs in our house, so I need a logger/analysis software package compatible with Mac OS. Most of those available online seem to be Windows based for some reason... If you can keep the barbed comments about the fact I own Macs that won't run most data loggers to yourselves I'd appreciate it I'm looking for a small logger (max 100g?) that measure both RH and temp, that can then later be dumped into computer for analysis. For the tech types on here, any advice you could give would be appreciated!

48 over-wintered, single-box, full depth hives for sale. These are palletised in groups of 4, suitable for commercial production. For sale as a group, not individually. These hives have been stimulated and are actively laying well now. Full details available on trademe listing here: Beehives for sale Please note this is an auction - no "buy-now" price. We will also be supplying mated queens and nucleus colonies from October onwards, as per our directory listing for Queen Midas Bees. Please feel free to get in touch if you wish to secure either mated queens or nucs through spring/summer (any quantity). Beekeeper registration number H4838. Thanks

While I was at conference someone asked for the lecithin component in the recipe I use for honey bee healthy. I can't remember what thread it was in sorry, so decided to start a new one. I've used both the liquid lecithin and the granules - greatly prefer the granules for ease of use, the liquid is the consistency of tar and hard to wash off! I use honey bee healthy mainly as a feeding stimulant, particularly early spring. It also helps prevent syrup going off. It has been claimed it helps both with nosema and varroa, but I can't say I've seen a particular impact on either. Don't spill the syrup when feeding it out, with this stuff in it robbing can become an issue apparently (although again, I haven't particularly seen this issue). And buy a dedicated blender to mix it, don't use mums one as it can be hard to get really clean afterwards. You have been warned. Recipe 1 cup hot water (I use straight out of the hot tap, say 60-70 degrees. Don't use boiling water as it can burn the sugar) Cold water supply 1 cup sugar (raw or white) 15ml lemongrass oil 15ml spearmint oil 15ml lavender oil 1 heaped teaspoon lecithin granules 1 drop ecostore shampoo Put 1 cup hot water in blender with lecithin granules and blend for 30-60 seconds. Add 1 cup sugar while blending and 1 cup cold water. Continue to blend while adding the oils slowly (in a thin stream) over about a 60 second period. Add drop of shampoo and make up to 1L with cold water. Blend briefly. This 1L I add to 100L heavy syrup (10ml/L syrup). If I'm using light syrup in spring this then gets diluted further by adding water. People argue about the addition of shampoo (or dishwash liquid or similar) and some say it is not necessary. The one I've labelled above is basically plant based and does seem to help keep the oils emulsified. In any case you're talking 1 drop in 100L + of finished syrup and it doesn't seem to hurt the bees at all. This stuff is quite pleasant to work with and has a nice scent - the girls like it when I've been mixing it in the kitchen. Don't leave the windows and doors open while you're mixing it though - if you've got hives nearby, bees will come inside for a look! It really is quite a strong attractant. Apparently you can also use wintergreen oil (which smells and bit like that liniment stuff we used to use when playing footy in winter) but I haven't tried it. I'm not making any claims here, just relaying what I do - use the above at your own risk.

I find myself in the embarrassing situation of having a few hives in what has recently become a somewhat inaccessible site due to wet weather (no thanks to having a crane in pieces and waiting weeks for parts from Italy....grrr....another story). Two options I guess - they stay where they are for winter and I walk in to them. But of course that's a little too easy (and sensible) so I'm looking at the second option - purchasing mud chains for the land cruiser. The ground I am dealing with is hard packed slippery clay slope with a small amount (mostly 10-20mm) of grass or slushy mud on top. I've tried narrow tyres to bite through which didn't work and the fat mud tyres are no better it turns out. Hence the chains, the thought being that if I can bite through and into the hard clay, I should be able to crawl up the slope and out. I don't have far to go - only maybe 100m before I'm back on hard track. So my question - what make of chain and what pattern? Have been researching online and in this forum, but would appreciate any practical experience from beeks. Some say diamond pattern best as stops any sideways movement, others say ladder pattern better for biting into mud. I'll only need them for occasional use in mud, no snow issues where I am. Would appreciate any comments, I know a few on the forum have commented before so obviously have some experience. Thanks

buzz off corporates says @john berry Indeed. John Berry: Buzz off, you beekeeping bandits

a new one for me today. 1 hive had several of these in it - appeared to maybe be some kind of egg/egg sack? Any ideas what they are? Length is maybe 6-8mm.

Now this is interesting: "Discount supermarket Lidl has just unveiled a discount version of the so-called superfood at a purse-friendly £7.99 per 227g. Pots of the sweet stuff nicknamed 'liquid gold' are sold for up to £60 and can rarely be snapped up for less than £10 a jar. Lidl's cheep and cheerful offering boasts a 10+ NPA rating - or Non Peroxide Activity Rating." Lidl's version undergoes 30 different tests in order to comply with the Honey Regulations 2015 (England) and recognised worldwide standard for honey." The above is selected phrases from the full article, link below. Interesting comments at the bottom of the article also. Also, if you read the label, is states "packed in the UK using New Zealand honey" Lidl's has unveiled budget Manuka Honey at just £7.99 a pot