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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/08/19 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    I don't have any scientific data. However, for my own piece of mind I always put swarms onto undrawn frames. I then always carry those colonies thru 2 full brood cycles (about 2 month from first eggs sighted). I do a full AFB check at least 3 times during that 2 month period. After 2 months I then consider if that colony is for sale or use in some other way. I am sure this is over kill and I have never found a swarm with AFB. Nice cut out today at my old place of work. 3 kg bees (30000) Also caught this small swarn on a car, however, there was no queen with it and the bees absconded. At least the car owner was happy.
  2. 6 points
    I been adding 3 frames of brood and a cell to my drone layers and failing queens, cells to my 7 frame smart nucs made with left over brood from my doubles that I'm pushing down and anything developing swarm cells and I have had to make a few splits with the extremely strong doubles so far iv used 40 cells in 4 days Hives are starting to bubble now, 3 had cells and 1 already swarmed
  3. 5 points
    Uh Huh ..... the keeping of Bees today has become a bit more complexed than it was a few years ago . It's not just a case of whacking the strips and staples in and walking away. One has had to become inquisitive. Mr Philbee told me a while ago that I had to up my game. I took umbrage at that for a few weeks as I did'nt really understand his comment . I do now . Every time I open a hive now I question what is happening in the brood, because if I don't I will be loosing money. So now we observe, ask questions , and when in doubt call upon the skills of John F and his science to help preserve our livestock.
  4. 5 points
    What you say is correct however some extraction plants mix the frames up during extraction so the frames from one box might end up in maybe 3 different boxes so maybe not that much different. The key thing here is thoroughly inspecting each hive when any hive component is taken away from it. Another thing I do to manage risk is labeling each pallet of wets with the site it came from so if spring inspections find an issue I can act accordingly with the boxes that came from that site.
  5. 5 points
    I see the latest Beekeeper magazine came out today with twice as much advertising material. I don't mind getting the magazine as it has some good information, but it does annoy me that a lot of trees have died just so I can throw it into the recycle bin unread.
  6. 4 points
    Honey is spread out over a large area, around 30 sq. metres and "dryish" air from the dehumidifier(s) is blown over the surface. All done in a small polypanel room, where the dehumidifiers extract the moisture from the air. This little room is upstairs; honey pump from the holding tank below to it and the honey drains by gravity down into the holding tank again. Honey temperature is controlled by the room temperature, which is controlled by an air conditioning unit. The system takes a certain amount of water out of the honey per hour, so you circulate the honey for a time depending on starting moisture content of the honey, target and quantity.
  7. 4 points
    Yes. When I've got spare cells that i can't use i sometimes open them for a look, I have found varroa inside several times. According to the internet, varroa do not go into queen cells. But the internet is incorrect on this occasion. 😉
  8. 4 points
    There are major advantages to feeding frames of honey rather than sugar especially early in the spring. Done properly there is very little risk. If you don't do things properly then there is a considerable risk but if you're not doing things properly you will already have a problem whether your feeding honey or not.
  9. 3 points
    Really??? Geez that’s not very good. How long was the course? I would recommend you give them some feedback that they should definitely be covering swarming.
  10. 3 points
    Im pleased as that farmland are selling ecrotek hiveware. A little dearer if not a shareholder but saves a 250km drive to get a few frames, treatments etc. Will even deliver to ya door. As for farmers having stock that theyd not be knowing or learning much about, id bet that theres many more urban beekeepers buying bees off trademe, getting supplies from urban beekeeping supply stores that dont have a friggin clue.
  11. 3 points
    Yes thanks @Trevor Gillbanks I’ve just checked and our registration has lapsed but we never received any reminder at all and it’s not something I even gave a moments thought so am pleased you posted. gotta say it’s pretty slack not getting a reminder. question to anyone who knows do I have to fill everything out all over again like the registered company address and the NZ business number etc ?
  12. 3 points
    Lots of beekeepers know what it is. Probably a lot of hive deaths due to this go undiagnosed as well.
  13. 2 points
    We have a clever friend beek who has installed the thermalising “Willy Wonka” machine a couple of years ago which draws excess moisture from the honey bringing it down below 18. No idea how it works but it works for us. We’ve had problems in the last few years with drums getting that growing & expanding thing going on. It seems to be an East Coast problem, and not one you want when honey is hard to move anyway. It’s pretty hard to Market drums on the move. They are old friends and with our offsider (who usually does 50% of the work) @Daleyon almost permanent maternity leave we gave up extracting our own honey completely last year. I miss the knowledge gained from watching the frames processed but something had to give.
  14. 2 points
    So far i'v made 20 smart nucs up and have used 12 so far and swarming seasons only just started, it's something to do on a rainy day😊
  15. 2 points
    If the larva died it will be white mush and won't rattle in the cell. If the lava is alive and close to hatching it will rattle and you can feel and hear that. Course, you got to be careful how hard you rattle it. 😉
  16. 2 points
    Been very wet here on the coast but thats not that unusual for winter/spring. Nice and sunny today and looks ok for rest of this week. My hives (10 ) were building up strong and had young drones and swarm cells started on the 15 sept so took nucs with old queens off those hives and now have virgins in them now. Only left one big cell in when i checked on 26th. If things dont work out i still have old queens. Had couple swarm last year and hope for none this year. Just need good weather.
  17. 2 points
    https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26412538 and https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5186740/ (open access . . oh, the irony)
  18. 2 points
    Hi Stoney I've never used oxalic dribble. But some years back when i was experimenting with oxalic vapour I got a shotgun brood pattern when i overdosed hives with a lot of open nectar in the broodnest. That was after several weeks of finding combs of eggs but never any larvae. I did some research and found that oxalic acid is very toxic to larvae just emerged from the egg if fed to them even in very low doses. OA dribble has sugar and some necessarily is licked up by the bees and ends up in the food supply. Just one dribble per year is not normally enough to cause a problem, but a study done in England found that hives dribbled twice in autumn had 30% less brood next spring than colonies that had no dribble.
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    One way of deciding where to put a hive is where the cat would park up. My preference re sun is afternoon/evening better than early morning if all day is unobtainable. If your roadside fence is a 1.8m timber you could put them hard against it. If not, I wouldn't put them anywhere near the road.
  21. 2 points
    Well if you vote yes in a couple of yrs you may be able to try it .😁😐
  22. 1 point
    No, after extraction it goes through the dehydrator until the required moisture level is achieved and then drummed off.
  23. 1 point
    Iv done my tests and they're sweet az, mind you it's warmer in northland
  24. 1 point
    Why would anyone put OA in syrup? We have had this same discussion a few years ago and decided it wasn't a good idea .
  25. 1 point
    I had a look at some weather predictions for the coming season this afternoon ..... one comment was that it could well be a cooler summer, hindering grass growth and crop development. Last year Tony at Blueskies sent me a three month outlook in October, which proved surprisingly correct. I think we'll sign up with him and make an informed decision as to where to place hives again this year. I bit the bullet today and did our first graft. It's a month later than normal. The day was cold and grey with the easterley wind keeping the temperature down to 7*c. It did'nt really inspire confidence, but I guess one has to make a start and trust that in two weeks we might get a few warmer days.
  26. 1 point
    In a top feeder. If they aren’t certified to sell jars of honey they will likely find themselves in hot water. As for buying other people’s honey for spring feed, you’d have to be out of your mind.
  27. 1 point
    So wax contamination obviously wasn't regarded as an issue.
  28. 1 point
    Im not sure that its that simple. If you rolled up to the trademark people and said you wanted to trademark the word Manuka, they would likely have said that its outside the scope of what is generally considered Trademarkable To spend millions back then would indeed have been a big call. As it has turned out it would have been worth the effort but hindsight is a great thing.
  29. 1 point
    SNI Beekeeping Group is holding their bi-annual Camp Rangi Wood training weekend 21 - 23 February 2020.Have a look at the flyer and then you can download and print your registration form here.Beekeepers from all over NZ are welcome and membership to SNI Group is only $10.00For registered beekeepers with two or more years experience.
  30. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum @WebKiwiNZ well done for getting a sick hive through winter. Make sure you treat them again this spring (now). Varroa control is a key to happy and productive beekeeping. As has been said above... it sounds like you need another box on top to give them room and something to do. I’ve just put a third FD honey box on one of mine, many others have a super, and they’re drawing out all new wax, so there is plenty of food over my side of town (Port Hills). A few wanting to swarm too... I’ve used a couple of flow hives and they do work but I think the two keys to successful use is to have access to a steady and heavy flow and a REALLY strong hive. This last point is hardest for new beeks to achieve.
  31. 1 point
    easy enough to do in small scale, it gets difficult in large scale, and unless frames are marked you have no idea even if they did keep them in order. they could very easily say "sure no problem thats $ extra" and extract as per normal and you have no way to know if they did it or not. all it takes is broken frames and it all gets out of order and i usually deal with piles of broken frames. even for our medium setup it has something like 10-12 boxes worth in the machines at a time. the way i've seen it done is they mark all frames and boxes, so you can easily see which frames go with which box.
  32. 1 point
    The future could be very interesting. Just have to hope that the mites get to the abandoned / missmanaged hives first.
  33. 1 point
    By undetected, do you mean not noticed until to late, or do you mean the hive looked clean as a whistle two weeks ago but now all dead to AFB.
  34. 1 point
    I saw that Phil ..... to be honest I'd rather buy 'clean' sugar than some else's 'dirty' honey.
  35. 1 point
    I agree. But I confess that while 9 out of ten in my swarm box are foundationless; so I don't even have foundation in there, I DO include one empty dry comb on centreline to get them started and provide an anchor. Thus 90% of the box is their own work.
  36. 1 point
    And if you do , how is it ok to keep selling ineffective product without a money back guarantee . Politics . Usually misses the point 😉. If they were really interested , they’d quickly jump in with support
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Not everyone. I also found the way I used them a problem. Maybe others also struggled with the Staples. Did you soak your own? They work, just need to sort out a strategy. Find the part strips a bit tedious pulling out and gathering.
  39. 1 point
    but i do not want a normal bloody spring . LOL
  40. 1 point
    Yes I agree but do not forget the last two springs were quite dry.This is a normal spring as I remember it and I have resided on the coast for 35 yrs now
  41. 1 point
    Yep , we are saying the same thing . Lol If I add a frame with a cell to a different colony of queenless bees , they tear it down and make their own 😉
  42. 1 point
    I can’t comment on your situation , but my hives that have access to gum flowers in the winter and spring do very well . They never cap it though . It all gets fed to expanding populations
  43. 1 point
    Oxalic staples may be a good option as there would be a couple of good folds worth in each one.. Anyhoo... interesting to see this seasons chewing has been fairly minimal, staples in end of August, bees built well and had top splits made above entranced mat placing a ripe cell, mating appears good so far with a couple more days to wait for capped brood.. downstairs in the engine room last yrs queens are chugging away on a nice willow flow and the miteless colony is barely touching the staples.
  44. 1 point
    Yes. If you put penny royal hay in the smoker you'd be better off just kicking the hive over. Whereas if you use dried lavender flowers the bees are very calm. I use hay with a preference to clover with some eye grass. Kikuyu is hard to light. Old weathered sacking is ok. Dont use fresh unwashed socks as they sometimes have pesticides on them from their past life.
  45. 0 points
    Perhaps you should see a health professional.
  46. -1 points
    If you mean do hives die from AFB then yes absolutely I have seen plenty of hives that have died. Once the infection has established the hive will fall off its metaphorical perch 100% of the time. That wouldn't matter except that when it dies it gets robbed out by all its neighbours and eventually they die as well. I have inspected apiarys where there were dead robbed out hives, dying hives and infected hives and I have also found apiarys where all the hives were dead and robbed out but the hives were so decomposed you couldn't tell if it was AFB or not. The major outbreak in the area the year before might be considered circumstantial evidence in court but it was enough for me to persuade the landowner to burn everything. Never found out who owned these unregistered hives but I do know that at least some of the gear have been appropriated from neighbouring beekeepers without their knowledge.
  47. -1 points
    I have been in discussions with Waipa District Council (WDC) regarding their current District Plan rules for beekeeping, which are extremely restrictive, and are not really based on the realities of keeping hives on residential properties. Some facts as their rules currently stand... An application for a Land Use Consent requires a deposit of $2100. A refund less actual costs will be processed once a decision is made. Current rules are that only 2 hives can be kept, and they must be 10 meters from a boundary (was previously 25m), and 25 meters from a dwelling (was previously 50m), making it virtually impossible to legally keep bees in Te Awamutu and Cambridge. They do have limited discretion to reduce these distances, as they are currently "recommended" distances. These rules were set in 2014, after about 30 submissions from beekeepers and clubs, which were basically ignored. The only change from previous rules was a reduction in distances as above, and mention that bees are beneficial. Waikato Bee Club submitted suggesting the distances were reduced to 2m and 5m. This was ignored. Even submissions from the National Beekeepers Assn and some very experienced beekeepers were ignored. A Private District Plan Change process requires a ludicrous deposit of $58,450, and takes about 2 years. A Council review of some District Plan Rules is being planned for early 2020. My communications with WDC in the last few weeks has ensured the Beekeeping rules are included in the list to be 'considered for priority'. I am sure most beekeepers would agree that the current rules are not based on the reality of bee behaviour, and the Council costs for a consent are prohibitive, even if most will be returned. I have asked the Council if they would be willing to put a significantly reduced set fee a Consent Application in place, and temporarily apply significant discretion to the boundary and dwelling distances, until a Council review of the rules can take place. They have advised this could be early in 2020, when a number of District Plan rules will be looked at. On the possible review, they have advised... "We would expect to have a better understanding early in the new year whether the bee-keeping rules are a priority for review and whether the Council will progress another series of plan changes." The reason for this post, is to try and drum up support and momentum to make this a "priority" and ensure that WDC include reviewing their beekeeping rules in early 2020, and would like comments and suggestions from beekeepers in Te Awamutu and Cambridge, and anyone else around the country, to see if we can get their rules changed. I understand that WDC, Whangarei DC and a Council somewhere around Christchurch are the only 3 Councils out of 67 that have extremely restrictive beekeeping rules. It would be great if the whole beekeeping community could get behind a concerted effort to encourage Waipa and the others to use reality for their rules, instead of fear (which is evident in their decision back in 2014). I have compiled quite a bit of info regarding WDC's rules, and can put that into this discussion to answer questions anyone may have, and I am prepared to front a campaign on behalf of potential beekeepers in TA and Cambridge, if necessary. When the time comes, anyone can put in a submission on the issue. I have asked for a link to the full 2014 submissions from WDC, and will post that link when I have it. The current document I have containing submission summaries and decision explanations is too big to upload here. I will try and extract the relevant 6 pages to post if I can find a way to do that. Please comment with your suggestions, proposals, experience you have had with WDC. I will make a comment with contact details for the relevant Council person, so you can email him to request Beekeeping will be included in the review process early next year. The more people who do this, the more chance the rules can be changed. I will also post on the suggestions and options I have already proposed to WDC. And just for the record, I have been a beekeeper for just over 2 years, and don't live in the WDC area, but I cannot stand when local or central government rules are clearly detrimental, and not based on reality. I have been discussing this issue with a resident of Te Awamutu, and started my communication with WDC in late 2017, when I was looking at placing one of my hives on a friends property in TA. That didn't happen because of the restrictive rules. If anyone wants to help the process by requesting Waipa District Council review the rules for beekeeping, you can send an email to Tony Quickfall at tony.quickfall@waipadc.govt.nz He is Manager of District Plan and Growth. I have got Beekeeping put on the initial list and early next year the list will be assessed by priority. Any email at this point should be about encouraging the Council to see this as a priority for change. Proposals, submissions etc, are not required at this stage, its just about getting beekeeping rules seen as a priority, and that will only happen if they get enough requests. Just a simple email saying something like, this. "I understand there may be a review of District Plan rules for keeping bees in residential areas (Te Awamutu and Cambridge) early next year. I support a review, to hopefully bring your Councils rules into line with 64 of the 67 Councils that allow keeping beehives on residential properties with only Animal Nuisance guidelines, and very few restrictions. This is a priority for anyone wanting to keep a few hives on their properties as a hobby, and has been unable to because of the current rules and costs."
  48. -1 points
    As I mentioned in an earlier post somewhere, I told the moari council to register or tademark the name Manuka.This was about 7 years ago.Did they do that,no.Why because of the cost yet they have had treaty settlements real bs
  49. -1 points
    Anyone else seen this on TradeMe...Frames of capped honey for sale as spring feed honey!.It is also suggested in the description that this a better option than feeding sugar! I have asked whether they are a registered beekeeper and whether this is safe practice? I didnt think it was.
  50. -2 points
    Bee boxes stolen , Napier. https://www.stuff.co.nz/business/116516159/give-me-my-boxes-back-more-than-80-beehive-boxes-stolen-from-business-in-onekawa-napier
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