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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/31/11 in Blog Comments

  1. 4 points
    I think I like this plan better than what I did. The FD's are just sitting next to each other so I'll probably just lift one over the other with the QE in place and be done with it.
  2. 4 points
    I put a queen excluder between the queens. This way you know very quickly which is the best queen and delete accordingly. There is no problem with recombining the hives is one is a dud.
  3. 3 points
    Awsome Dave, so good to here from you again always love your posts I haven't been here much lately, but always appreciated your input and your knowledge, we must catch up sometime Also I would expect nothing less than a post like this from you haha, your a legend.
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    I prefer wood and wax foundation. I bought 1000 plastics a few years ago I have probably the same amount in wood floating around too. Bees certainly like the wood and wax in the brood box. Either type work well so long as they are well prepared. Bees can wreck wax foundation pretty easily too.
  6. 2 points
    Shot gun brood is all sorted now, the initial problem was no pollen in the hive, zero, nada, zilch and that created all sorts of nutritional problems. The natural pollen supply seems to be coming right now, with lots coming in daily. All of the uncapped cells now have brood in them. The varroa came from a drone laying queen hive that I missed treatment completely in, doh! I think there was a reason for not treating as it was going to be combined with another hive, that didn’t happen and it got shaken in front of this nuc. Not an issue. I will drop in an Apivar strip tomorrow.
  7. 2 points
    Double queeners down the road are where all my swarms come from
  8. 2 points
    I often have two Queens in a hive when I want to requeen. I put a Queen excluder between the two brood boxes so I can see where the existing queen is laying and later add a new laying Queen and her brood. Then I put another Queen excluder on top and a honey super. The two Queens happily lay their brood in their own boxes and all the worker bees go up to put their nectar in the honey supers. That way I can get double the amount of brood for the honey flow, and then by the end of January when I go down to check the brood for AFB before taking off some honey to extract, I often find that the old Queen in the bottom brood box is not laying very well. If I see her I will squash her but if I don't see her I will take away the Queen excluder between the brood and let the bees get rid of the Queen they don't want. She will stay in the bottom box, and doesn't go up to fight the new stronger Queen. That way I can often get up to 100kgs of honey from one hive.
  9. 2 points
    As they have only been separated for 24 hours or so, It will be easy without fighting.
  10. 1 point
    Sounds to me like Gino has had too much sun and turps. Uh Huh ... it's been the day for, it that's for sure !
  11. 1 point
    True, though my feeling is- autumn hives contain more old foragers- these foragers can deliver mean bloody inducing stings.
  12. 1 point
    Seems like a lot of work though ? wouldnt it be easier to just strengthen up a single in spring then split it around now ?
  13. 1 point
    Getting small nucs (2 frames of bees) to build up through winter takes a lot of time and commitment. Up to this date it has taken on average , 1 litre of 1:1 syrup and 1/4 to a 1/3 of a Megabee patty every week since June to get them to the stage they are at now.
  14. 1 point
    Really enjoyed it. Caught up with a mate who I haven’t seen for about 15 years. Awesome scenery, I prefer the mountain ranges and green of the Waikato though.
  15. 1 point
    Not arguing (sitting in the pub actually) but I wonder about this. Is it actually 'lost'? Considering after several million years will still have 60% of a banana's genes, 80% of a cat's, and 96% of a chimp's does it just hang around unused...
  16. 1 point
    Hopefully, we are grafting from carefully selected breeder Queens which is a good thing, but this can contribute to a very bad thing, which is the loss of genetic variation. Any time, we apply selection pressure to a population with the aim of breeding a better bee, we are hoping to increase the frequency,and therefore the expression, of those alleles responsible for the traits that we are selecting for, but that action comes at a cost- we affect the frequency of all alleles across the genome. Selection Pressure causes the loss of Genetic Variation. The loss of Genetic Variations causes a loss of Vigour. The loss of Vigour decreases Bee Health and Productivity. I call it the rubber band effect- you try your best, you do careful evaluations, use your best breeders, but somewhere not very far down the track, promising improvement ceases, and your stock starts to be pulled backwards because of inbreeding depression. This is why backyard breeders never get anywhere despite good intentions. There is only one way to effectively apply selection pressure, while minimising the loss of Genetic Variation, and that is the Closed Population Breeding Model- it is a lot of work, and requires the use of pooled semen, but it works
  17. 1 point
    That is the point of grafting after all; to affect the future. If you mean, what happens to the 'royal' family lineage then the answer is not much. It's thought to be a paternal (drone) feature, and part of the balance between male vs female reproductive fitness. Some drones could be competing to make larvae carrying their genes more likely to be chosen - an extension of sperm competition. I think the 'royal' epithet is a bit misleading, but to carry the theme, if the beekeeper selects the 'royal' out by picking the wrong larvae, the drones will put it back in.
  18. 1 point
    Yes of course. It bends the make up of the future hives, towards what we want, rather than what the bees may have chosen. Bad thing? Time will tell. But I do not believe the old mantra "bees know best". They are creatures of instinct who respond mostly robotically to any circumstance. They are programned to work in their best interest, not ours. When we select, we consider the modern environment the bees will be in, and what we want those bees to be doing for us.
  19. 1 point
    At midday and 1 o'clock relative to yellow Q !
  20. 1 point
    Yes A 32mm hole at the back end covered with stainless mesh. Never really noticed a problem with moisture other than having to reorient hives that were tilted back and rain water was pooling on the base board.
  21. 1 point
    Ewwww! I am a Vegemite guy.?
  22. 1 point
    Day 1 So with time on my hands and the sun shining and being as warm as it is going to get today (around 12 degrees, but there is a keen breeze blowing directly off the fresh snow down on the Desert Road making it feel more like 8 degrees C) I have started the project of trying to get these nucs building up through winter. I have taken some photos of the two hives to document progress of. Last week I bought two new frame feeders. A new model supplied by NZBeeswax, they are Korean made. Some interesting features such as the “no drown insert and within that there is a anti burr comb insert. It will be interesting to see how they perform. The first nuc which I will call #1 had been given 1litre of syrup and 1/3 of a Megabee patty last week. Today I transferred them to a 6 frame nuc box. There are approximately enough bee to cover 2 frames and in total around half of one side of a Full Depth frame has brood of all ages. While transferring them to the new box I took the opportunity to inspect some suspect brood. The worst problem found was a bit of chilled brood on the edges of the brood nest, which isn’t unexpected considering the sudden cold snap we have had. Another nuc with a Drone laying queen that was culled today was shaken in to this colony as well to boost numbers by about another two frames worth of bees. A feed of 1:1 syrup with seaweed extract and the Megabee pattie was added. Nucleus #2 had population of 2 frames of bees and barely 1/10th of one side of a Full Depth frame with brood of all ages. An internal feeder with 1:1 syrup with seaweed extract and a Megabee pattie was added and closed up after removing the varroa treatment strips. A quick whip around the rest of the hives had varroa treatments removed and the last of the patties placed in some smaller colonies along with a top up of syrup. Stay tuned for the next update.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Tuck up with a cup of tea, and your favourite biscuit, this is quite a read.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    True, and not their only defence. Distinct from larvae with a blind gut - open only at the 'in' end. Is defecation 'voluntary'?
  28. 1 point
    A 2 queen hive is not the same as a double queen hive.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    I have had two queens in a hive often. In a case like yours over this winter there was the old queen who was failing and her supersedure daughter who never mated. Both were drone layers . The bees never got rid of the old queen as there was no proper replacement yet.
  31. 0 points
    So that’s where the saying comes from “to much sex can make you blind”. Very informative article thanks
  32. 0 points
    Can you please summarise the summary ?
  33. 0 points
    Risky arguing with someone in a Pub!
  34. 0 points
    Definitely. Imagine the trouble unemployed marching hordes of drones could cause.
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