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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/23/19 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    This was how we ran them at the start this time last season and later found we had cut the brood nest in half .. a small percentage of them layed past staples but majority didn’t which affected expansion of the nest. We now run a leg in every seam and alternate ends of the frames. Works for us. Always placed on outside edge of the brood, like say half on the brood and half on the pollen/stores band surrounding brood. For us that is most effective. A full box of bees gets 4, a double brood both boxes full of bees with brood gets 7 . A box of bees containing only 5 frames bees and couple small patches of brood I give 1... adding more as they expand up to a max of 4 in one box. Always wiping excess liquid off before placing. This works for us on our sites. We have done a full year ox staples only. First time we used them we lost bees but so far things appear fine this season. They MUST be with the brood and don’t appear anywhere near as effective if brood is away in the corner of the box post winter.
  2. 6 points
    It’s a very long time since I had a Ute . Now I have one again . I love it
  3. 5 points
    I thought you got yours later on in the season james? We also don’t mix our own brew, they come ready to use. We had a big learning curve in our year of staples.. from colonies bleeding bees half a metre out the front door to mite ridden DWV affected colonies losing half their population in one foul swoop... nowhere to be seen.. very alarming to see .. and followed by many sleepless nights thinking about 3500 colonies we may have killed.. we have been trialing different placement methods and numbers of staples all last season, this is still in my view a rather large self trialed experiment.. theres no instructions or rules.. I have placed them into crashing colonies with 2 mites per bee visible. we have placed 2 per box of bees.. to find mites building up.. then 3 then 4 then 6-7., checking discussing, tweaking methods etc , really keeping an eye on things. these things do work but ya gotta do some grunt work as well. The old synthetic treatment mentality doesn’t work with these. My view is these things are absolutely perfect for suppressing mite invasion in colonies with light infestation to begin with, they will turn around heavy infestation but are much slower than say Bayvarol and also may reduce some population also slowing the eventual turn around.. once the bees are fairly “ clean” these really come into there own maintaining very low single digit mite numbers per 300 bees washed. Reinvasion on some sites becomes alarmingly obvious with regular washing also. If I find a small colony now that has visible varroa damage I place synthetic treatment first, give it some love, let it come away nicely then switch it over to the staple.. just my thoughts anyway.. if our experiences with staples can help one beekeeper deal with mites better than they were then it’s all been worthwhile.
  4. 5 points
    Well here’s some sun for ya we’ve shed the thermals
  5. 5 points
    really don’t mind being one of the test pilots on the use of this new ish delivery system and really feel we are making headway with every turn in the road we take. usually our first round following winter is met with heavy mite loads and associated viruses putting us on the back foot at the first step... following the “old” spring / autumn treatment plan.. Positive knowledge is being gained each and every lid we crack and every alc wash we record in this battle. We now have a nice handle on the effects on our bees on our sites but there are also still many questions I’d like to find answers for.
  6. 4 points
    Interestingly, I found a hive that I’d put staples in , incorrectly , a couple of weeks ago. I had in mind to follow @Stoney‘a lead and put one leg down each seam and at the end of the brood. Well , I hadn’t done that . I’d put two legs down each seam and fenced the brood in . The bees most certainly did not like it , abandoned all brood, and moved to one edge of the box and started again . Conversely, where I’d placed them properly, the bees are expanding nicely, so I’ve moved the staples further to the outside of the frames so they are just missing the edge of the brood. I’m going to run with this approach and see how it goes
  7. 3 points
    I am pretty sure that more than one leg of a staple per seam of bees is doing something very counterproductive to a hive . Perhaps @Philbeecould comment , but this may not have helped your bees @jamesc. The action of both fencing them in and creating a toxic centre in the hive . You won’t get that with only one leg per seam. Ive also found 5 per box too many . The one on the outside frame is wasteful . I also suspect the 40% staples are less forgiving on a hive than the previous lower strength brew . It seems to me that the management of applying staples needs to work alongside the beekeepers intuition . Read each hive as a separate unit . This means erring in the side of caution and starting with one or two staples on the small clusters , and adding more as they build up . This probably means more regular visits than with synthetics . My bees have been pretty quick to expand the brood to the next couple of frames where there was none the previous visit , but I have definitely negatively affected hives by putting in 7 over two boxes in one hit . Its a a learning game and I believe with our open communication we are making really good progress
  8. 3 points
    Thanks Matt, i haven't really spent the time reading all the staple information so it's good to get some advice, give me another season and I'll hopefully have a better understanding. LOL, 2 days ago I just got out of a yard at around 3 pm just as it started raining, and decided I'm not getting wet doing another yard and headed for home. Then on the way drove past the site of a large commercial. By this time it was hosing down, and there were 2 bedraggled looking beekeepers in full white suits working the yard, must have been horribly miserable for them. At that moment i just gave quiet thanks that I am now my own boss calling my own shots, not working for someone else.
  9. 3 points
    More than likely emergency cells resulting from the loss of the queen . Do those bees have enough honey on board ? There should be food stored around that brood
  10. 3 points
    Finished my spring round yesterday. Total losses just under 5% made up of 50% queenless 25% robbed out in autumn 15% drone layer 10% wasps . Still only treating twice a year and losses to varoa over winter were zero. One or two mites seen on some early drone brood but no PMS or deformed wings. Hives generally in reasonable order but a bit backwards. The flowering season here is at least one week behind normal. Feed consumption over winter was mostly normal or below normal with only a couple of hungrier sites.
  11. 3 points
    Our first round we zipped around, cracked lids and gave the live bees an o/a syrup squirt. Second round they have been having a real light sugar feed with 30ml seaweed/litre. Five seconds on the hose nozzle which equates to about a litre and a half. We have also done some sugar shaking, but can't find any mites, but have seen dead ones on the floor board ..... perhaps the result of the initial o/a dribble. Most of the bees have moved up into the top box ..... away from the staples. We have pulled the staples from the boxes , refolded them into orange buckets and plan to resoak and re use as most are untouched with chewing. Most of the bees have been moved out of the Dew onto warm willow sites and are buzzing with anticipation. We have advertised two crane trucks For Hire in the local rag, as I anticipate we will have quite a lot of time on our hands this year.
  12. 2 points
    I've got the same rain on my roof... I've given up going out when it is like this. No sooner do you get underway and into the hives than you have to close up and scuttle back to the vehicle, wet and uncomfortable, then the sun comes streaming in and you get through another couple of hives, then back to the wagon and so it repeats, so frustrating. I'm spending my time fixing things so I can break them again.
  13. 2 points
    I’ve been washing flat out.. lots of 0-4 mites the odd 5-8 had a nice full box of bees this arvo washed a zero, while another threw 24! There is definitely a pattern for me... we ran 1xfd 1x 3/4 broods overwinter, the cleanest bees wintered as single fd with staples, the higher loads came from colonies that moved up into the top box which was all stores in autumn and have brooded above the treatment. Overall the colonies are smaller than this time last year and also much cleaner of mites.. it has been much colder here in the 2nd half of winter than last winter.. i believe oxalic affects the mites In many ways such as affecting their feet and also thinning their shell and am not concerned at all about resistance anytime this century.. as the pink cat says.. there’s plenty of more pressing things to worry about.. I also believe beekeepers treating only twice a season should become a thing of the past..
  14. 2 points
    Not sure if it is defined as a "fine", or as a "penalty", or something else. What is happening now, is people who do not complete their COI are sent a series of reminders. But if all that fails and the person just won't do it, AP2's have been sent to inspect the hives, and the beekeeper sent a bill for that. Realise that the AFB PMP have no interest in causing people to have a financial penalty, and in fact make no money out of this. But there have been too many hives never being inspected at all, and an ongoing residual AFB problem in NZ. So the management agency have taken steps to attempt to ensure that every hive is inspected, one way or another.
  15. 1 point
    If you are a registered beekeeper but do not have a DECA, you will have recieved in the mail a yellow form to fill in, called a Certificate Of Inspection (COI). Every year some beekeepers do not fill it in, which will now bring a financial penalty so I am posting here as a reminder, plus some explanation. The reason for it is this. - AFB is a serious disease that requires an affected hive be burned if your bees get it. Hives should be regularly inspected to ensure they do not have it, because if they do have it and it kills them, other bees come and steal the honey from the dead hive, which spreads the infection. If we go back in time, this happened a lot, because some beekeepers did not know how to recognise the disease, so they just watched as their hives died, and the disease was spread to other beekeepers. So a scheme was introduced to train people to recognise and deal with AFB, and once someone has attended this course and passed a written exam, they can become a DECA holder (Disease Elimination Conformity Agreement) Because in the past some hives were never checked by someone who knew how to recognise AFB, now by law, every hive in NZ must be checked at least once each year by somebody trained, ie, a DECA holder. So for people who have not yet become a DECA holder, you have to get someone who is a DECA holder, to check your hive. That is what the yellow form is for. It is signed by the DECA holder and is written proof that you have had your bees checked by a DECA holder, and this form once completed must be sent in the return envelope by the end of November. I should add, that the COI is different from the ADR (Annual Disease Return), which can be completed online and must be filled in by every beekeeper, both DECA holders and non DECA holders. The ADR is a very easy form to fill in, to say if any of your hives had AFB or not, and also if you bought or sold any hives and who to. This has to be done in June. So simply- Non DECA holders must get a DECA holder to check their hives for AFB, and fill in, sign, and return the yellow COI form by end of November. DECA holders do not have to fill in a COI form for their own bees. All beekeepers must complete their ADR, which can be done online, in June. So for non DECA holders there are two things to do each year, for DECA holders there is one thing to do each year.
  16. 1 point
    Couldn’t agree more on the communication Matt. These are all our own experiments on our own terms and we know some are having very different results to others. Weeding out the differences in the trials can only be positive. However... we probably should be doing it over in the Ox /GL thread ..... 🤔.
  17. 1 point
    Arhh, I thought you'd produced them as a way of dealing with the Queen not crossing over ..... Oh well looks like I'm going to be running and extended trial given the recent order 🙂
  18. 1 point
    yep they are good, i have one the same
  19. 1 point
    Stoney's way is the result of lots of trials and will likely become the standard. The way I do it is the same way you have done it and has worked very well for me but has always split the Brood over winter. This has never concerned me but I now realize that most Beeks are much more fussy than I and.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks Stoney that is very helpful the pic is worth a thousand words also. 👍 I'll be checking mine again 4 weeks after the first staple install, so at that time, factoring in your information, I'll be able to see whatever damage I may have done, and what i should have done better. I'm not actually too fussed, because for some reason most of the hives this season are stronger than i would like at this time and swarm control is looking like it will be near impossible. So if I've cut bee numbers some, could be a good thing.
  21. 1 point
    I think I know why Randy what's is name decided towels were a better choice, nowhere near as labour intensive.
  22. 1 point
    Awesome, that will simplify the way you have to work heaps. 🙂
  23. 1 point
    I've just been putting mine smack through the middle of the brood nest, haven't been back to check any yet, is that going to work?
  24. 1 point
    Hi all, Thanks for your responses and apologies for my slow response. I have attached a photo of my situation. Cheers,
  25. 1 point
    Re that. For some years now i have been wintering in a brood box with an excluder on it and a honey box on top of that. Using staples experimentally this spring but up to now have done a traditional spring and autumn treatment using synthetic strips in the brood box only, which most of the time other than a few hiccups, has worked fine. Come spring treatment time, quite a few hives will have a lot of bees in the top box, away from the treatment. However in my view the reason the treatment works anyway, is because although there will obviously be mites on the bees in the top box, the ultimate goal of all those mites is to get down into the brood area and breed. So one way or another they all head down there, where the treatment can get them. That's how i see things anyway. This spring though, I am doing quite a few hives with Phils staples, again, bottom box only. So far, the hives have been stronger than normal with a lot of bees in the second box. So what will be interesting is the effect of the staples. I'm thinking the OA could have a repellant effect and make those mites in the top box, less likely to go down into the brood area. Might not have that effect either, but i don't know. So for now, I'm running with that system, and only time will tell how good it's worked. Will know in February i guess. 🙂 Agreed it's been lousy, and for more than a month also. Even at this early stage of the season, I am behind schedule, just can't get out and do the number of hives i should be doing. 🤔 Even now, i am sitting at my computer idling away time, and listening to pounding rain on the roof. 😳
  26. 1 point
    The rain records show we've had rain every day this month and that we're almost at double the historical August monthly average. A great swarm prevention tool.
  27. 1 point
    We have had a lot of typical cold, showery and windy weather. Not a lot of rain but not many nice days either.
  28. 1 point
    We are coping with temps over 30C and at least next week also.. Really dry and hot.. Bees strong ( too strong), not rarely with 10 frames of brood.. Now I can see starting of making honey arches.. There will be quite an army to feed overwinter.. But I believe they know what are doing.. Some queens failed and I will merge mostly with others, since I am motivated to reduce the colony numbers.. The hazelnuts are now in focus for me..
  29. 1 point
    If it's any consolation at all, the last lot here caught with the goodies (away off the rightful property) were a sorry lot after they were dealt to during the recovery. They became aggressive and found their match well and truly. There has not been a prosecution of the recovery team.
  30. 1 point
    A photo of your lids and bases on here give us all a chance to keep an eye out for you. The more eyes looking the better. Thought with the prices all down there would be less of this.
  31. 1 point
    ☺️Queen that was broodless in Autumn back to laying again. Apivar treatments in today & 3 part frames of brood. This hive was full of Varroa in Autumn according to tray under Hive doctor bottom after Bayvarol treatment so Bayvarol still effective.
  32. 1 point
    When Gary asked me whether I would like to be interviewed for this pod cast I was a little unsure as I have been misquoted and taken out of context a few times by journalists but I have to say he did everything he said he was going to do and very professionally. He asked some good questions and allowed me to answer in my own way . Not sure about my waffle but Gary was right on the ball.
  33. 1 point
    I would be interested to know what you think our efforts are worth to you. I guess $1 is just too much. Hope you enjoy the show, it will be out Wednesday, if you subscribe for free on your phone you will get it as soon as its released. Gary
  34. 1 point
    A possible solution might be to fence the Creek
  35. 1 point
    OK. Folk's Let's be careful on what we say here. Stick to fact, No threats No playing the man. Admin will be watching this thread and it will be locked and hidden without any warning if it stays into deep water. So far everyone is playing by the rules I have just stated. I am going to tag this thread for close admin monitoring. Thanks Trev Administrator.
  36. 1 point
    as you may or may not know, i admin some facebook beekeeping page. Policy on that page now is no 1080 discussion, mostly due to death threats that i received for deleting some of the craziest comments. Death threats from people the cops were concerned about and with access to serious firepower. There's some nutters out there, just ask their views on pouring sugar into helicopter fuel tanks... irrespective of the pros and cons of 1080, the anti-1080 brigade have among them a large number of people with strong views on things such as chem-trails, assassination being appropriate, etc, etc. Tread carefully. here's a couple of points the active ingredient will kill bees there were early tests with jam as a bait, and bees did die there have been no bee deaths attributable to 1080 in this century there have been no residues found in honey this century as far as i know there have been claims that 1080 drops during a rata flowering flow could result in powder residue being taken up with the nectar and affecting the flow, as far as i know there has been no honey tested that has supported that paranoia though and here's an opinion: if 1080 didn't kill deer there would never have become a 1080 conspiracy movement. Those who hated that 1080 killed not only possums, but also their sport, got vocal - but realised fairly quickly that deer are also a pest and saying "1080 is bad cos it kills deer" wouldn't carry much weight, so instead they preyed upon the susceptible, the naive, the unsound, and created a conspiracy industry among those seeking people to blame for life's circumstance
  37. 1 point
    Widespread control of possums has led to much improved tree health which has led to better flowering and more honey. We no longer see willow trees stripped back to their branches every spring and possums will even eat the flowers of the manuka.
  38. 0 points
    Your teeth must be incredibly white if you been sippin outta the OX/GL tap...
  39. 0 points
    Who mixed up your brew ? You didn't by any chance soak them in Speights by accident ?
  40. 0 points
    Forget the ute .... look at the grass !
  41. 0 points
    Funny you say that . Its a whole heap easier working off the back of a Ute as opposed to getting stuff in and out of the back of the Pathfinder
  42. 0 points
    I hope you're not serious about the pollen traps. There are thousands slowly rusting away in innumerable beekeepers yards. Pollen seems to be the most easily oversupplied bee product there is and the boom and bust cycle happens about as often as a change in the Australian Prime Minister.
  43. -1 points
    Heads up for the Whakatane district beeks . So today we discovered 20 hives plus pallets stolen off one of our sites. We were just finishing our possum block (grocery money for these hard times) and no 2 man called up to say um I think you had better come and have a look. He has very good records so as soon as they drove into the site they new something was amiss. I don't often swear but today I had to - it feels like some of my babies have been lost. 😓
  44. -2 points
    Well today it got worse. Another 32 hives stolen overnight !!!!! Our sites are in the local Forest behind locked gates but unfortunately this week contractors have been working in there and have been leaving the gates open. The police and Forest Security have been advised but we are putting more cameras out incase they come back. They had blocked up the entrance with a rubber matting material so we have kept that as evidence. Our Registration number is D0871. It's really disheartening as they were bursting with bees getting ready for splitting and pollination .
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