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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/27/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    no they not. maybe for major transmission lines. we been through this big time with our local lines company when they charged us $1000 dollars to find a cable in the ground. That only took five minutes work. we were happy to pay for the job just not being ripped off that's all. as soon as we told them there trucks would be stopped at the gate from now on the boss was on the phone within 5 mins apologizing for the overpriced bill and that it was taken care of.
  2. 3 points
    Treated a site today that is on a strong koromiko flow So many swarm cells I split the lot
  3. 2 points
    Me neither. What has made me a little more ruthless (though killing less been in the long run) is dealing with robbing when I open the hive. Over the last month, any time I open up its 10-15 minutes before urban warfare starts up. It’s true bedlam, with bees covering every surface and killing each other everywhere. By going fast and catching the odd bee it is saving vastly more. I’m hating this time of year and will try get all the honey off way earlier next year, running small batches through the extractor if needs be. I’m doing most manipulations at dusk now, seems to help.
  4. 2 points
    Wax Moth Integrated Pest Management. This seemed a relevant link to include here as so many people are asking questions about the best way to store supers after extraction. Please ignore the material about biocontrol using Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) which is not allowed to be used for wax moth control in NZ. Also of course it is illegal to use PDB. I thought the times suggested for freezing the frames at different temperatures was very interesting. Also the required exposure to CO2. https://www.clemson.edu/extension/beekeepers/fact-sheets-publications/wax-moth-ipm-publication.html
  5. 2 points
    I don't think that's too much
  6. 2 points
    Love it. They are bullies.
  7. 2 points
    Its exactly what i did last season. started in late summer/early autumn with vaporization every 4th day. for 21 days. after that i switched to weekly and later in autumn fortnightly treatments. the weather is not an issue. in autumn drone brood should also not be present anymore. (And the bees should generally reduce the amount of brood - wich btw is the reason hives fail in autumn) whats most important however is constantly checking the mite drop (wich takes about 10 seconds per hive if you have decent bottom boards with stainless steel mesh and sticky board trays that can be inserted from behind the hive. i highly suggest reading this article (every article on that site is amazing btw) http://scientificbeekeeping.com/the-varroa-problem-part-15/
  8. 2 points
    That's what we all said at one point.. enter hive creep... You've done real well, my first marking I had pushed the pen tip in to moisten it as instructed and ended up flooding the poor thing red, head eyes and all.. there were several bees trying to clean her and their tongues were red as well, I was sweating so bad about it my eyes were stinging. don't be worried about squashing them, queens are the toughest bee in the colony and the thorax is strong, it's actually not that easy to squash them if done as described.
  9. 2 points
    Not far from being operational. Steel foot plate to fit for the crane. I am really happy with this little unit.
  10. 2 points
    It’s been a month of bee cakes Our lovely daughter was requested to make a 1st birthday cake It it was a winner
  11. 1 point
    Hi, no hate and not too many questions people as i am working thru a scroll of data to see why, what I did if anything to help. I now have two, two year old thriving colonies, and good honey production. Bs right, no. I think I have a good clue to why they have made it but need to get some testing done and run for another year to back up this idea and data. These hives have not had a treatment of anything since March 2016, and all are on new wax September 2016, I made and cleaned, myself with new method. These hives are seven frames, insulated boxes with vents weather proofed and I use standard ten frame honey boxes on top. They were in a polystyrene hive I made for over a year until they destroyed it. A mix frames but, small cell central brood and black plastic outer frames and some foundation less for drone killing, if they build it. The only thing I do is remove most of the drones but not all. May 2017 the hive was strong but had visible varroa and small amount of dwv. September 2017 nothing was found wrong. Colony grew, grew and grew, and is doing really well with no varroa visible, good, I hope. Well anyway I thought I should post an update see some pictures. Also FYI I do not think small cell is the key, from what I have seen and tested over four years now there are some other serious factors that affect the hive and colony ability to handle varroa. Moth urine and the last pupate is just one factor, which this colony has none this year but did last year January 2017. Hive design that reduces drone and bee drift, stocking rates and sun position, or lack of sun seem to be better. I actively do 6-12 week rotating brood breaks, something else I am working on, a new method to keep the colony going while still using one entrance with two brood chambers. Anyway who really cares what I do, I just hope that one day we all can have a method to manage without any chemicals.
  12. 1 point
    Less than half width of box for a large colony,60-80k plus of bees. Smaller for smaller colonies down to 10mm. All slot holes. all lower entrances, some hives I use vented meshed holes on front of boxes on second box upwards. meshed floors, mostly, only two solid as I ran out of mesh. Not all frames of small cell wax do they make small cell and nicely, when the flow is on they can make some really strange cells, so I rotate out asap, replace brood frames all the time.
  13. 1 point
    Starting to look like a pro @dansar
  14. 1 point
    Not so much rotten but definitely a much stronger acrid smell. I did see flies snooping around it. I've got a couple of the small trays ready to go for tomorrow so hoping they'll be OK. Yes, that's the way to do it :-)) Receive it then allocate it out into its little parcels and freeze it then.
  15. 1 point
    Change the layout a bit and now have it securely bolted down.
  16. 1 point
    I've been playing mad kitchen lab rats again made up some Gib tape strips as per Philbee but 4 ply that look the part going to try them as soon as I get some nucs into there winter hives. I've also had a play with stuff called overboard a 20grm sample sooked up 40grms of brew and looks very much like the Argentinan stuff hard to rip up but the bees should be able to chew the fibers out so need to work out a sized strip that holds enough goo to do some work I'll see if it sooked up any more tomorrow as it's in the hot water cupboard
  17. 1 point
    From the Merchento website: Can Vespex® be re-frozen once thawed? Yes. Vespex® is resilient to re-freezing and remains just as effective. However, while you can re-freeze bait that has been thawed for a couple of days in its original container, you should not attempt to re-use any bait that has been in bait stations. I have just sent a message to them asking about repeated freezing and thawing. Not sure about leaving it thawed for 3 days though.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Thanks folks. That is pretty much what I told the guy who suggested it to me. I might try the nail trick on my bayvarol treatments. It will not take much to make a nail hole with a hope punch. Yes I always put the strips in on an angle.
  20. 1 point
    I’m sure the instructions to place the strips in the “brood nest” are there for the reason that that is where they are most effective. if it was equally effective sitting on Top of the frames between the boxes the instructions would have given you that option. They fit ok in a 3/4 if you put them in on an angle
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    It’s up to you whether or not you put wets back on . If I do , I get a robbing frenzy , so I don’t . Freeze for 48 hours , then stack and wrap with pallet wrap to stop wax moths getting back in . After freezing , or before , sort your manky old , or pollen bound frames out and recycle them with new wax or foundation .
  23. 1 point
    I wonder how someone as an equipment supplier, who didn't actually keep bees of their own, would get on?
  24. 1 point
    But it will help that TradeMe has a policy that allows them to pull listings that are reported. See a listing you’re suspicious of, then report it.
  25. 1 point
    One small thing I did was to do a search with my rego, and saved it to favourites. In the very very very unlikely event of a fraudulent listing with my number ... “bing”. Everyone can do at least that much.
  26. 1 point
    Yep, that's beekeeping! Latest swarm I ever caught was March, (public relations) himself had flown out to Haiwaii to do a job & im in the basement jerry building a base, scrabbling about to make a lid. Those girls have a least 3 generations of babies (splits) since. I miss is the excitement of stuffing a swarm in the back of the trusty Corolla and chortling about free beeses!
  27. 1 point
    Really stoked with this purchase (not the trailer). Drove over to Matata today to collect it. The whole unit will be easily relocatable to trailer or Ute depending on what I need to do or where I am going. The guy that modified the crane used it for lifting bluegum firewood rings.
  28. 1 point
    Which is BS and we as a country should never have allowed beuracracy and government to take us to this point.
  29. 1 point
    Just recieved 2 jars of delicious honey from @kaihoka . Her and I did a trade to try each others honey. Wow it's the whitest, almost water clear honey I've seen in a very long time, and very different tasting to what we get around my part of the world. One of her jars is labelled Clover + Rata or Mustard, none of which my own bees make much or any of, so a great taste experience and so much nicer than buying in the supermarket. Thank You Kaihoka.
  30. 1 point
    thanks alastair. it is very different honey than the traditional bush blend. if pollen checks were cheap i would get it tested. i took some honey off today and one frame is dark and like caramel and the rest tastes like the old fashioned smokers. i will keep them separate. swaps are a good way to get a variety of honeys to taste.
  31. 1 point
    My first year changing over was so labour intensive making sure the frame, brood cycle made the frames and cell correct, now three full seasons later, cells are frames are very nicely made 4.9mm. Take the time to get good frames. Treat in March, and then you can miss spring, well that is what I do anyway on the majority of them, have three methods or more going on now. Lost none in spring 2017. Lost some autum 2017 due to robbing, and starved. See my other post re the two year old treatment free hive and now a split from it. The biggest issue I have is keeping other drones out in spring. I run really small, ie general opinion, entrances all year, regardless of colony size, that seems to help with drift and drones.
  32. 1 point
    This may be simplistic of me but why would we not just ask the folk who use Top Bar hives all the time? Some folk may even have both Langstroth and Top Bar so the comparison could be made - apples with apples as it were. I feel if we compare hives in different situations there may be other unknowns affecting the bees.
  33. 1 point
    Picnic by the river anyone??? No need to pack a lunch we have plenty to choose from food food everywhere !!!
  34. 1 point
    As a newbie hobbyist I’m watching the Oa/Gly with great interest. But I’m continuing with OA vaporisation and MAQS+ with regular sugar shakes to hone my skills of observation & track numbers. And I will keep this up until I’m more experienced/confident, and smarter people than me solve the OA/Gly experiment
  35. 1 point
    sorry but yes i think youre overlooking quite a few aspects (basically all of them) queen breeding (not just rearing) is a very delicate process which involves many aspects. Imho you'd need an apiary of at least 100 hives to do a proper selection for breeding (and its never a good idea to only have daughters from only one breeder queen. A queen mates with up to 20 Drones! even if you graft from a good queen, how do you make sure the virgin mates with "good" drones? Also The egg you grafted from could be from one of the "worse" drones... apart from that the amount of food a hive needs during winter is of the least relevance to me! resistance to varroa (and afb), swarming, honey harvest and gentleness are much more important!
  36. 0 points
    The reality is that life is tough.. sometimes tougher than others I arrived at work yesterday to hear the news of the sudden death of a 32 year old work colleague at 2am that morning. It was a medical emergency and no suspicious circumstances It is a tragedy, as is the loss of this young man.
  37. 0 points
    All sorted. Thanks for your help.....not?
  38. -1 points
  39. -1 points
  40. -1 points
    Interesting ..... I went back to a site today I had dropped bees off at the w/e in the dark. Part of the track had collapsed, which I saw in the dark , but 1m in was a large crack in the ground where more of the track was getting ready of slide off down into the gully. Every operation almost needs a full time H&S person to be checking out hazards. I guess this is where scale comes into play ..... being able to afford to pay for the extra manpower to do all the little jobs that seem insignificant but are actually quite important.
  41. -4 points
    unfortunately this was a young guy in his first year out on his own, has been working for a very good local beekeeper for 5-6+ years before that a tragedy for sure. Slid of a farm track after being pulled out by farmer, thought they were safe or ok from here. be careful out there.
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